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Messages - KWKloeber

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 230
1
Main Message Board / Re: Air filter on M35B
« on: March 22, 2020, 08:26:58 AM »
<<< You could consider just getting the genuine Westebeke part. >>>

Jim
Iím confused. Why are you looking to replace the unit with a KN?  Donít you (correct me) have a perfectly good intake?  A KN doesnít solve what you want - to get rid of the crankcase breather hose being divorced from the air intake.

Others -
enlighten me. Whatís the benefit of an oil catcher?  Iíve seen pop bottles, coffee cans, and bought filter units. But why introduce that when just routing the breather hose to the intake works?  Itís the same principle as the PCV valved hose that we all used to have that on our auto engines that ran to the carburetor and sucked fumes from a hole in the valve cover.  (And as I said Kubota does on some of those engine configurations.)

2
Main Message Board / Re: Leak in hull to deck joint
« on: March 22, 2020, 08:03:38 AM »
Chris

Did check to see if the nut(s) had loosened?
https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,10335.msg79870/topicseen.html#msg79870

-k

3
Main Message Board / Re: Air filter on M35B
« on: March 14, 2020, 04:22:39 PM »
Jim

Yeah the westerbeke solution of cutting off the hose at a 45 and zip tying it to the intake is, well, typical westerbeke. Not the most elegant.

Iím familiar with the m25xpb intake which should look much like the 35b. There should be a knockout on the intake manifold, just adjacent to the air cleaner/silencer.  On some Kubota engines (tractors?) the knockout is replaced with a hose nipple that accepts the crankcase breather hose.  I can look up the Kubota part number we used for the intake hose nipple if you want that route.
Of course another option is to just drill and tap a hole in the throat just behind the silencer (for a threaded hose barb.)

Or, although this wasnít for the B series, maybe it will give you some ideas to run directly into the silencer on the 35b.
http://c34.org/wiki/images/1/13/Example.pdf


4
Main Message Board / Re: Throttle Tension Slipping
« on: March 10, 2020, 08:26:21 PM »
I doubt 1/8Ē would fit the cable sheath.  Itís probably more like 3/16Ē OD, so the 1/4Ē should work nicely.

5
Main Message Board / Re: Throttle Tension Slipping
« on: March 10, 2020, 08:18:52 AM »
Quote

using the cable clamp, I went with the clamp and never had any issues. Seems too "simple" to actually work...but it does.


Donít overthink this - a little tension, you donít need to try to crush the assembly to death.
Harbor Freight carries the low-cost wire rope clips (in stainless!) Twofer 2.99.
https://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-1-4-quarter-inch-wire-rope-clips-93891.html

Easier to adjust if need be than disassembling the binnacle.


6
Main Message Board / Re: Smallest plumbing pipe diameter
« on: February 06, 2020, 08:15:12 AM »
Paul

My bro replumbed his Carver totally in pex.
Plastic pex fittings and a crimper are a whole lot less $$$ than using shark bite type fittings.
The crimp rings and tool do a better job than the crimp/lock type, but that crimp tool is a slight more $$$ than the other. 

The newer type pex that you can use with the plastic expansion/contraction rings is REALLY cool (I was on a project where the plumbers used it) but the tool is $$$$$$$$$$ unless you can borrow one from a plumber.

7
Main Message Board / Re: Antifreeze: Which type is best?
« on: January 31, 2020, 04:14:36 PM »
I now see the swaged end in the picture. It was not obvious due to the paint.

I have all the manuals downloaded and in hard copies, and they are always my first point of reference. But I still wasn't sure exactly what I was taking a picture of because of how I had to blindly stick my phone down there, so I hoped some others would recognize it.

BA, ok your post post threw me - I thought the issue was you couldn't locate the drain location in a manual, I didn't take it that the issue was locating it on the engine due to the limited space/view.

Anyhew, for other B engine owners, here it is:


8
Main Message Board / Wiki issues?
« on: January 31, 2020, 04:08:36 PM »
Is anyone having issues signing on to the wiki?

For whatever reason - I was logged off, and now I can't sign on (to edit anything) or reset my password to log in, or anything else to get back in.

thx
ken

9
Main Message Board / Re: Repainting mast
« on: January 31, 2020, 02:30:20 PM »
cliff

MANY yrs ago (CRS) I used a 4 or 5 step process (after removing paint and fine sanding) --
A cleaner, acid etch, rinse, 2-part etching primer, 2 coats finish with a little flattener in it.

I used Dupont Imron for the top coat and the prep steps were what a client recommended (who manufactured concrete mixers and used Imron and that process to paint the drums and truck body and chassis - A very tough industrial finish!)

ken

10
Main Message Board / Re: Battery Orientation
« on: January 31, 2020, 02:24:25 PM »
Tim

You really have to budget out what your energy use is expected to be, which will determine how many amp hours you need to replace, over how many hours she's plugged in.  For longevity sake its good to keep the charger working at half its rating. 40 isn't a lot of amps capacity of you are using the heck out of your maximum available amp-hours and using her every day, but if she's sitting week long that's different.  A VERY general rule of thumb is 10% of your usable amp-hours (ie, 10 amps for every 100 ah of battery - again VERY general, everyone's needs are different.)

11
Main Message Board / Re: Battery Orientation
« on: January 29, 2020, 06:58:36 PM »
Tim  To answer your specific questions...

Being AGMs, the orientation makes no difference -- unlike flooded cells where the orientation does make a huge difference.

While it's ALWAYS preferable to balance installations by keeping cable lengths equal (and naturally short as possible) your difference is not feet but inches, so (presuming the cables are not WAY undersized) there is no issue with length.

I don't run AGMs but I know that they are easily killed with improper charging, so something to consider (not knowing what improvements you have ongoing.)  Not to put any pressure on but Winter is 1/3 gone!

12
Main Message Board / Re: Antifreeze: Which type is best?
« on: January 29, 2020, 12:57:14 PM »

and the online pictures of the M35B don't catch the correct angle. I


painted hose ..... has no hose clamp on it.



Download a copy of your Operator's Manual from the Wiki!!  It shows 8) the coolant drain locations on the 25xpb, 35B, and 50B engines.   Someone exchanged the drain plug shown in the literature for your petcock. Nice! :thumb:
The exploded parts manual shows the drain plug as well (but doesn't ID it as "coolant".)


The OEM oil-pressure-switch hose has swaged ends, no clamps.  The last time I ordered one (to convert an M25 to add an oil pressure gauge) it had swivel ends (whether it was on one or both ends, I don't recall.)  Hose clamps wouldn't be appropriate OEM for an oil hose that could theoretically see 80+ psi.  One might get by with that if replacing one.

Note that over several years engine heat could deteriorate that hose and it leak - it happened on my M25 (at age 13 or thereabouts.)

13
Main Message Board / Re: Fresh water pump will not shut off.
« on: January 26, 2020, 04:40:29 PM »
Bob

There is a potable water pump troubleshooting guide on the TechWiki.
Could be a bad pressure switch if it doesnít shut off at all. I presume itís primed and pumping ok?

14
Main Message Board / Re: Can't get all the oil out of my M35 engine
« on: January 20, 2020, 07:03:02 PM »
Are you accounting for the oil filter?

Apologies, I don't know -- where is the hose banjo located on "your" 35?  I know that some Universals are located mid-oil-pan and some are aft on the pan. 
I don't have a hose on my M25, but I use the dipstick and the stiff poly tubing (attached to vinyl tubing to the pump) and can reach both back corners of the pan.  The stiff tubing has a curve "set" to it that can be used to get to the back.

When you say jet black - immediately upon refilling?  Or after running? (diesels don't run "clean" oil like a gasser.)

-ken

15
Main Message Board / Re: Antifreeze: Which type is best?
« on: January 18, 2020, 11:07:44 PM »
Stu

This is RC's most complete procedure
https://www.sailnet.com/forums/1252482-post5.html

I just put it his steps and his pix on the
Wiki > Engine > Cooling (top entry.)




Actually, I did mean "globe."  The typical petcock drain (like atop our TStat) isn't a gate valve, nor a plug valve, nor a ball, diaphragm, butterfly, sliding knife gate, pinch, or wedge valve.  I don't know what's left. 

I thought it most resembles how a globe operates because it has a valve disk (chamfered plug type instead of flat or ball or cone) that closes against a valve seat (and can pinch debris and dribble.)
Shown closed against valve seat below.



BUT, it has 3 differences (I know you know the details, this is for non techies.)
The action is reversed - the stem pulls up, instead of pushes down against the valve seat (coolant system pressure makes it seal better,)
The flow when open is thru the hollow stem (instead of an outlet above the valve seat,) and
It's missing the valve body (the radiator/engine block/tstat housing becomes the globe.) 

It was really quite an ingenious invention - eliminated many parts by combining functions and eliminated the need for a globe body.

I ran out of valve types, maybe there's a ME out there who can more properly identify the type!!??

A bit of Trivia - Henry used the same type ball valve petcock as we have on our engines on his Model T !!!



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