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Messages - KWKloeber

#1
Main Message Board / Re: OIl leak
Yesterday at 08:14:36 PM
Guenter

I doubt that the larger diameter made any difference.  They threads are tapered and are so close you can't tell the difference (1.7833o bspt / 1.7899o npt.) And presumably, the NPT nipple was tightened no more than a BSPT thread would have been.  So effectively, the OD of what was threaded in was the same as BSPT, but maybe there was a turn less thread in the oil port.  Again effectively then, the connection was was just a titch weaker than if it had been a BSPT nipple. 

The thread angles also differ (55o BSPT / 60o NPT) and the thread pitch differs (28 tpi BSPT / 27 tpi NPT.)

I'd think that if anything, there was a slight cross-theading due to the 28 tpi vs 27 tpi thread pitches.

An oil pipe nipple like that failed on a C-30 Universal (did the fewer mated threads contribute to that?)  Certainly hanging a heavy pressure sender off the end in the wrong direction was key (caused a large moment at the pipe thread.)  See the pic of the one that failed.  Rather than orienting it properly. See mine.

Note that the Kubota oil switch is BSPT/JIS not NPT.  If you need to use PTFE to prevent a leak at the block I would consider bonding the nipple rather than relying on the engine for ground.  See pic for my type of bond.

#2
Pete

Nuts are defo the best way to go. 

Scarf on a "repair" with epoxy across the corner and extend the center inward with strips of fiberglass mat on the back of the tray.  IIWMB I'd make up one larger flat repair piece separately (build it up in the bottom of a flat plastic container) cut it to the sizes needed, and epoxy on the finished repair product.  I think that would be simpler than trying to build up mat on the tray.  Use West microfibers additive, which has the greatest adhesive property.  Build up the outside surface of the repairs so they are level with the tray so that the panel fasteners do not cause torque on the repairs.

Using stainless nylock flange nuts will eliminate the need to epoxy-on washers.  eBay and Amazon have them.   Rough up the surface so it grabs the epoxy.
#3
Quote from: Ron Hill on Yesterday at 02:30:13 PMGuys : The last time I talked with Gerry Douglas Catalina was still using 3M5200 to bed their keels!!

A thought!   :thumb:

Ron do you know about what year CTY switched from polyester mung to 5200?
#4
@pbyrne

Whomever is giving you that answer about the coolant either

1. Doesn't know what they're talking about
or
2. Is intentionally feeding you BS.

Over 30 years, half of that on the hard over Buffalo winters I've never had a drop of coolant in the bilge in the spring. So, no it's not a known problem about Universals.

I tend to think the bad info is #1. because (even if it occurred as "they" claim due to contraction,) CLAMPS ALSO CONTRACT over the winter (greater than the rubber hoses) and therefore hoses connections become even tighter, not looser, during the winter. 

And, there's NO WAY a "drip" from such a "loose" hose connection due to contraction, not under pressure with cold coolant, would lose 2 cups.

The engine closed cooling system has something going on, somewhere, and it's fixable. Permanently.



#5
Main Message Board / Re: Deck scupper enlargement
April 17, 2024, 08:43:22 AM
Quote from: Jim[If you use a hole saw it's best to plug the old hole with a wood plug before drilling so the pilot drill on the hole saw works and the hole saw doesn't walk.
Jim


Hey Jim if you have that situation here's 3 easier outside-the-box hacks I use (plugging the hole is my last resort.)

Drill a hole in plywood for an external guide, and kneel or stand on it (at least until the new hole gets started.) Or affix it with double sided tape or whatever.
https://youtube.com/shorts/q-CzRZoC4GI?si=sSqRDRmIXzI_cfTQ

Use two saws, if the original hole is a nominal size:
https://youtube.com/shorts/HdKg3IooOB8?si=0PfI_xEPUGRliT5P

If the original hole is odd-size cut a larger hardwood hole and sand it down to the correct diameter for an arbor.
https://youtu.be/vOUfFaIJUqo?si=i34fdHsT_agcf5e9


#6
Main Message Board / Re: Energy audit
April 16, 2024, 10:20:22 PM
Here are a few sample spreadsheets I uploaded -- from simple to complicated, that one can modify to suit oneself:

https://c34.org/wiki/images/c/c4/Energyplan_0.xls
https://c34.org/wiki/images/b/bb/2012_Sample_Energy_Budget_0.xls
https://c34.org/wiki/images/8/8f/Energy-Calculator-4.xlsx
#7
Main Message Board / Re: Deck scupper enlargement
April 16, 2024, 05:07:46 PM
It doesn't need to be diamond -- carbide is fine.

I got a complete set of carbide-tooth hole saws at a great deal off Craigslist!
I used them on the bottom of a stainless cabinet (electrical, nothing nautical) and it was an absolute LIFESAVER -- a bimetal hole saw "never would have cut it".


#8
Main Message Board / Re: Headsets for communications
April 16, 2024, 03:28:59 PM
For that distance any FRS talkie will be fine.  Stick with a known brand name.  Look at hunting stores vs a marine store! 

I prefer earbuds vs a headset and suggest that you buy where you/she can try/return to find what works best, lest it become simply an annoyance (and another marriage penalty.)

Some models (I believe Midland FRSs is one) you can buy a plug-in Bluetooth dongle that will pair to your favorite phone Bluetooth. 
Another consideration is wind noise -- so again try/return -- because a boom mic w/ a foam windscreen may work better than a mic hanging on a wire from an earbud or clipped to a jacket lapel.
#9
Main Message Board / Re: backstay shackles
April 16, 2024, 03:03:48 PM
Hey Pete

I am a cheap, I mean frugal, sailor so IIWMB I would turn the D into a locking D. 
With a Dremel, grind a vee into the side so that the thumb screw blade drops into a slot when it tightens past a certain point.  That's how my small shackles of that size "lock."
Otherwise, put a drop of blue Loctite on it.

The backstay adjuster did not wear the bow shackle pin. 
The PO put it on the backstay because it was worn from the anchor.   
Besides being ugly it'll last your lifetime on the backstay.  Otherwise, replace it with a new Wichard (or IIWMB a Wichard snap shackle w/ clevis instead of an eye.)
https://defender.com/en_us/catalogsearch/result/?q=wichard%20shackle

-Ken
#10
Main Message Board / Re: backstay shackles
April 15, 2024, 11:51:42 PM
Pete

Photos of which you're replacing?

I use Wichard or Garhauer for most my hardware.
#11
Main Message Board / Re: OIl leak
April 15, 2024, 02:17:25 PM
Guenter

I'll add that it's better off to:

Make a bracket to affix the tee/pressure sw/pressure sender to the exhaust manifold and use a flex hose.
Or
Mount the tee off the engine with a flex hose.
Or
Install the Westerbeke parts/bracket/hose that mounts a bracket and tee on the unused engine mount holes. I've done that on two M-25s/XPs.

(note that the original early M25s (like mine) had the pressure sw/tap for pressure sender mounted atop the bell housing with a flex hose between them.)
#12
Main Message Board / Re: Energy audit
April 15, 2024, 02:06:10 PM
Jim

These links may help you develop a budget

https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,9361.msg69541.html#msg69541

https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,2199.0.html

but basically just start a spreadsheet of every usage you have, amperages, hours on-time during one day.

For each use
Amp x on-hours = amp-hours usage for one day.  Sum them all.

The other side of the budget is more involved; e.g., anticipated engine run time per day, alt output. # days between shore power charging (cruising or on a hook), solar, etc.

You're probably not going to change your alternator (or maybe you are considering that?) but the key to balancing your budget is meeting the amp-hrs demand by balancing that against the variables on the supply side of
- Shore charging
- Engine hours
- Alt output
- Solar charging
- Bank capacity

Demand A-Hs = AHs replaced by

Daily Engine supplied AH
+
Daily Solar AHs (if any)
+
Daily Shore AHs (if any)


The Bank capacity has be enough to either/both:

Provide the demand before the daily replenishment is complete

OR

Provide enough to make up any deficit in replenishment until back on shore power.





#13
QuoteFinally, does anyone know what the keel bedding is on a 2000? It would at least be nice to know what was used that could essentially rot!



Ask Warren Pandy at the factory.


Some have installed a pvc pipe tower at each nut to keep the nut inside dry from water in the bilge. I used 5200 to seal around the bolts and under the washers before nutting down.

Seems that it would be worthwhile to track down the source of in the bilge and eliminate the coolant?

#14
Main Message Board / Re: OIl leak
April 15, 2024, 11:36:35 AM
Guenter

Note that the Kubota engine port is NOT 1/8" NPT.  It is 1/8" JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) which is for all practical aspects interchangeable with British BSPT thread.

You can buy a BSPT-male x NPT-female adapter or a BSPT x NPT pipe nipple from McMaster and other sources.
#15
Main Message Board / Re: Keel Bedding Survey
April 09, 2024, 08:33:56 PM
I have for a long time disagreed with the thought (Catalina factory fantasy) that smiles are due to the blocking.

You have two planks that do NOT bend (the flat top surface of a hefty lead keel) AND a box beam constructed in the bilge stub.  You are NOT going to bend the keel stub by shifting more or less weight forward or aft on the keel.  For a crack to open, on one end the non-bending beams would need to open up, which creates a "V" to the ether end of the non-bending beam.  It doesn't happen.

Besides, what happens to the "tender joint" (that according to CTY cannot resist being loaded by so-called mis-blocking it) when the keel is NOT supported (i.e., with (literally) tons of stress on it, while being kicked to and fro and back and forth while tacking and crashing through swells while heeled?
That doesn't create more dynamic stress on the joint than statically loading it (by so-called mis-blocking it)?