Join the C34 Association Today!
[C34 Home] [C34Tech Notes] [C34 Tech Wiki] [Join!]
Please login or register.
Advanced search  

News:

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - KWKloeber

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 224
1
Main Message Board / Re: oil hose kit?
« on: September 14, 2019, 07:57:17 PM »
Oops
p/n 030290 - I have no clue from where I copied the other number!! :cry4`

Fact of the matter is, anyone who works on Westerbeke diesels whoís worth any salt would know where to look up the part - and see if itís available - and order it for his customer.  :shock:

Just by the way also - all the parts manuals are in the c34 techwiki site (<Manuals>) so if you need anything else itís easy to verify if itís a good part or NLA. Typically the NLA parts are the Kubota ones - the Wb add-ons are typically available.

-k

2
Main Message Board / Re: oil hose kit?
« on: September 14, 2019, 02:59:15 PM »
MD

The yard guy and/or both the supplier are, technically speaking, full of crap.

The oil drain kit for the XP is p/n 200373.  That's the drain bolt/banjo/washers/hose/plug
The crush washer is p/n 17038.
Unless the hose and/or banjo are bad, all you need is two crush washers. $10
If the hose is bad you could get a local hydraulic shop to duplicate it. $15?
At last resort, you could replace the whole shebang. $140 

The parts can be ordered direct from Westerbeke.com, or your regional distributor is HansenMarine.com in MA.
Hansen is VERY good. 
Or here's your local dealers:  http://hansenmarine.com/our-dealers/new-jersey/

-ken

3
Catalina 34s Parts & Pieces For Sale or Wanted / Balmar Smart Gauge SG100
« on: September 08, 2019, 07:12:22 PM »
If anyone is interested in a Balmar Smart Gauge to monitor your bank, PM me (or preferably via the email link
<to the left).

This is the SG100, the simple gauge to install, not the SG200 that does have more bells and whistles and works off installing a shunt (more difficult to install.)

New, in box, never installed -- Make offer!

Ken

4
Ryan

That's not a "new" pump.  The cast brass covers are the oldest ones, then stamped covers, then the N202 series bodies w/ o-rings and stamped covers. 

The one in your hand may have been the original, leaking and replaced with the flat cover.  It may have been rebuilt and kept for a spare replacement.  Check the gasket, impeller, seals, and shaft -- if they look new I'd bet it was rebuilt. 

There's no pumping difference between the old 202M pumps and the N202M (just switched from the grocery bag paper gasket to the new N pump body w/ the o-ring.

-ken

5
PS, you look to have the "N" series Ob pump - if so, did you change the cover o-ring this season?  Or do you have the paper gasket type?

6
Ryan

How old is that belt?  Itís toast - itís cracked and frayed and the laminated layers separating.  See pic.  Itís a Top Cog model (Dayco) which is excellent for our engines with small-diameter pulleys.

When have you checked the tension last? (E-Z!) Too loose, belt slip and wear, too tight and you can burn out the alt and water pump bearings.

A Clarification - Thatís your raw water or sea water pump, not raw water intake (which is on the hull).

The engine mount (technically an isolator) might have been toasted from the leaking pump.  Canít tell - is that scaling paint on the oil pan (from the leak)?

The engine belt nos. are on the TechWiki - you should always be carrying a spare! Note thereís some ďcontroversyĒ as to the belt length for the upgraded bracket. Your adjuster arm looks to be bottomed out, or near there.  See pic.

Itís BEST to take your old belt with you for sizing and get one slightly smaller than your stretched one cuz thereís no adjustment remaining.  I get the Top Cog @ Advance Auto but thereís likely other sources.

Also the the alt may be misaligned - better than average chance of that - see RCís article. Note about bolt sizes and shins and adjustment washers etc.
https://phase.com/mainecrusing/universal_alternator_bracket
(The article isnít on Rodís new website).

Looks like you have a slight oil pan leak as well? (Banjo?)

Iím not being judgmental, everyone has their own abilities and reasons, but that engine is calling out for help. It can become a real costly outcome if not loved and taken care of  -  boat engines need more love than auto engines.  :love:







7
Main Message Board / Re: Water Filter Part
« on: September 02, 2019, 12:45:27 PM »
How tall is the cartridge?

8
Main Message Board / Re: Fixed portlight material, thickness, and tint
« on: August 28, 2019, 12:03:17 PM »
Db

IIRC there has been a number of posts in the past about replacing the fixed windows - do a search for good tips on doing it.

9
Main Message Board / Re: Does anyone know what this is?
« on: August 28, 2019, 11:59:46 AM »
Does your boom swivel or is it fixed with the pinned gooseneck casting?

10
Main Message Board / Re: Shroud covers
« on: August 28, 2019, 11:56:36 AM »
If they are oversized theyíll roll with the sail. But I davy jonesíd mine long ago as they were a harborer of mold  mildew and gunk.

12
Main Message Board / Re: Rigging a Barber Hauler
« on: August 27, 2019, 08:06:32 PM »
Paul
[edited]

I've always thought of a BH as a means to re-angle the foresail from the position you can attain w/o it.  For instance, your sheet is on the inside track, but your apparent wind wants you to open up the angle.  You can't just ease the sheet -- there's no vang or traveler to keep tension where you want it and if you ease the sheet the clew will fly out.  So rig a BH to move the clew out to the toe rail.

Conversely, the same could be done w/ the car on the toe rail and apparent wind wanting you to point higher w/ jib angle than you can get with the care where it is.  Rig a BH on the centerline and bring the clew in, while not having to put excessive leech tension on with the sheet.  Just think of it as highly relocatable lead cars for your foresail.  You can use snatch blocks or low friction rings -- whatever works for the situation.  the BH can be rigged in two directions, moving the "jib car" in or out, and also can be hauling the "car" down (or easing it) using a twig to a hard point.

It's kinda similar to bringing the traveler hard to windward if you need to sail higher to sneak by to miss a jetty w/o tacking.

13
Main Message Board / Re: Burnt alternator excite wire
« on: August 25, 2019, 03:28:03 PM »
I canít say what exactly caused the over current on the excite wire, maybe diodes? RC will be the answer guy for that.

But, JFYI the excite wire and the fuel pump feed are redundant (if itís a non B engine) ie, you can use one wire to supply both.
Thereís both there because the excite is part of the OEM engine harness from universal and CTY ran the fuel pump feed wire.

14
Main Message Board / Re: Rotella T vs. T4
« on: August 21, 2019, 02:21:32 PM »
I've been using generic 10-40 from O'Reily's without any problems for years. It makes no difference.  All marketing hype.

I didnít think OíR branded a mono-grade or 10-40 diesel dino.
At least mine doesnít and the web doesnít list it.

15
Main Message Board / Re: Fuel Gauge Troubleshooting
« on: August 19, 2019, 04:43:16 PM »
David,

Welcome to the CTY family.

I had put the gauge t/s guide in the engine > electrical wiki topic. 
http://c34.org/wiki/images/3/34/Gauge_Troubleshooting_Steps.pdf
It gives the resistances of the fuel sender so you can check it at empty and full . 
Float empty the R should be about 240 ohms.  Full, the R should be about 33 ohms.

See below:

Quote

- I checked the voltage with mu multimeter at the instrument and it read 12.5 volts, same as the battery meter.
- I disconnected the sender wire and used a screwdriver blade to short across the sender input post and the ground post. The needled jumped to the 1/2 position on the gauge.


If you ground the S terminal on the gauge it should pin high. Your gauge is toast (caveat - based on your test.)
If you disconnect the sender wire the gauge should pin low.



Quote

- I checked the resistance of the sending wire at the instrument. It read zero ohms at all settings of my multimeter
- I checked the resistance of the sending wire at the fuel tank. It read zero ohms at all settings of my multimeter


Checked ohms from sender to tank body, I presume?  Or to ground?
Make sure the tank bond wire is intact and low resistance tank to battery negative -- or take your ohm reading to a known good battery negative location.


Quote

The needle of the gauge is all the way to the left, off the scale of the gauge. When I turn the ignition key, the needle jumps a millimeter or two and goes right back to all the way to the left, off the scale of the gauge.


With the gauge way left (zero-ish) it indicates that there is infinite resistance in the S circuit.  In other words a disconnected S wire.  It doesn't make sense that the float reads 0.0 ohms -- then the gauge should be reading right (way high-ish.)

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 224