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Messages - KWKloeber

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Main Message Board / Re: Can't get all the oil out of my M35 engine
« on: January 20, 2020, 07:03:02 PM »
Are you accounting for the oil filter?

Apologies, I don't know -- where is the hose banjo located on "your" 35?  I know that some Universals are located mid-oil-pan and some are aft on the pan. 
I don't have a hose on my M25, but I use the dipstick and the stiff poly tubing (attached to vinyl tubing to the pump) and can reach both back corners of the pan.  The stiff tubing has a curve "set" to it that can be used to get to the back.

When you say jet black - immediately upon refilling?  Or after running? (diesels don't run "clean" oil like a gasser.)


Main Message Board / Re: Antifreeze: Which type is best?
« on: January 18, 2020, 11:07:44 PM »

This is RC's most complete procedure

I just put it his steps and his pix on the
Wiki > Engine > Cooling (top entry.)

Actually, I did mean "globe."  The typical petcock drain (like atop our TStat) isn't a gate valve, nor a plug valve, nor a ball, diaphragm, butterfly, sliding knife gate, pinch, or wedge valve.  I don't know what's left. 

I thought it most resembles how a globe operates because it has a valve disk (chamfered plug type instead of flat or ball or cone) that closes against a valve seat (and can pinch debris and dribble.)
Shown closed against valve seat below.

BUT, it has 3 differences (I know you know the details, this is for non techies.)
The action is reversed - the stem pulls up, instead of pushes down against the valve seat (coolant system pressure makes it seal better,)
The flow when open is thru the hollow stem (instead of an outlet above the valve seat,) and
It's missing the valve body (the radiator/engine block/tstat housing becomes the globe.) 

It was really quite an ingenious invention - eliminated many parts by combining functions and eliminated the need for a globe body.

I ran out of valve types, maybe there's a ME out there who can more properly identify the type!!??

A bit of Trivia - Henry used the same type ball valve petcock as we have on our engines on his Model T !!!

Main Message Board / Re: Antifreeze: Which type is best?
« on: January 17, 2020, 04:02:40 PM »

The google search link I posted to BA calls up the forums that have Rod's flushing procedure (and/or copy/pastes thereof) and one or two links to his pix (bucket sitting on the sole.)  I didn't find a vid of it, but I didn't take the time to search for every one of is posts to see if he linked to a vid. 

As soon as I get time I'll put Rods stuff on the wiki>engine.

The B series can be drained exactly the same as yours and mine. There's nothing different/exotic -- the coolant circulating pump has the "same" portside hose from the Hx to the pump to disconnect.  The hose from the exh manifold to the Hx is the same.  The hose from the Tstat housing to the exhaust manifold comes off the back of the Tstat, instead of the side - only difference.

Only one seawater hose is port-side (instead of stbd-side) but the coolant hoses are the same from the M25/35 to the XP to the XPA/35A to the XPB/35B.)

I don't know if you are aware - maybe you are -- our coolant petcock (stbd side) is a ball valve so, unlike a globe valve, there shouldn't be much to clog and a particle would be self cleared as far as when the valve is operated.  I've drained there many times, no runs, no drips, no errors.  Although, if not simply draining but "flushing" (like continuously with a hose or pump) there wouldn't be a reason to use it -- it's too small to get much circulating-flow.

IIRC Kubota uses drain plugs (1/8"? 1/4"?) on the B series instead of a drain cock (as Kb calls it on our M25.)

Main Message Board / Re: Antifreeze: Which type is best?
« on: January 16, 2020, 10:02:02 PM »
Quote from: Breakin Away

if I remove the thermostat that the liquid would also flow into the areas around the cylinders. Is there any need for the motor to be heated up, or can I just use the impeller pump to recirculate everything though the cooling system? If so, where is the best place to connect the pump to recirculate everything? (Note that I have an M35B, which seems to have very different hose routing from earlier Universal motors.

BA, correct you can use an impeller pump.

If you are using RydLyme it's best to NOT HEAT it (do you expect calcium deposits in the closed system?)

If you use a lime buster, of course, you cannot see inside to know when its finished its job.  You can use pH paper to check when the return solution has reached equilibrium -- i.e., the pH is no longer rising (RydLyme is an acid, so reacting with deposits will raise the pH of the return solution.)

Not sure what you mean re: the B series' having a VERY different coolant hose routing -- can you be specific? 
The only (major) difference would be that OEM, some older Universals (basically M-25s) had the water heater plumbed inline (in series) with the Hx, instead of on a separate, parallel loop (plumbed to the thermostat bypass.)  That's how M-25s were on the C-30, dunno if M-25s on the C-34 were the same.

See coolant routing (second article):

Depending on where you introduce the flush and return the flush solution, determines what a parts of the engine it touches (water jacket, exhaust manifold, Hx, coolant pump, etc.)  So, theoretically, you don't HAVE TO remove the TStat, but it does make it easier to flush completely.

Lastly, not being too anal -- but you actually own an engine (not a motor.)  Flushing a motor wouldn't be a good idea. :shock: :shock: :shock:

Main Message Board / Re: Antifreeze: Which type is best?
« on: January 16, 2020, 09:31:00 PM »

Google is your friend.  A search locates the info (first time) -- on several forums like google Beneteau, Sailnet, Cruisers (maybe others.)  RC's procedure (and link to a couple of pics are there.)


Main Message Board / Re: Catalina Smile
« on: January 08, 2020, 07:37:03 PM »
Kenó I do not believe the 1990 C34 has any wood between the lead and fiberglass in the keel stub structure. It is my understanding that the wood sandwich method of construction in the keel was discontinued in the late 1980ís.

Thx Noah,
(I neglected my usual "Stu" caveat) -- I didn't intend to imply that my condition was identical to the C34 -- only described my condition (and the rationale for grinding vs. covering it up.) 

However, water traveling down the keel bolt threads (the prime reason for water attacking the joint and it going punky) isn't dependant on having the wooden plank in place.  In fact, I left mine in there as it wasn't rotted.)  I believe the plank was eliminated in 88 or 89 on the C30, and my keel hasn't fallen off in the 20 years hence!!  :D :D :clap :thumb:


Main Message Board / Re: Catalina Smile
« on: January 08, 2020, 04:25:20 PM »
The Catalina Smile is back  :D .

I am reluctant to start grinding out any part of the keep and perhaps this is just a surface impurity.

Back?  What had you done to repair it in the past (apologies if I missed a prior post.)  What surface (gel coat?) impurity would cause a Catalina smile crack?
Tho I have a fin, I too thought "How bad can this be?  I'll just grind out the surface per the CTY fix drawings and fix it.  "

To my shock, 1/3 to 1/2 the bedding (polyester chop/mung mix) was gone (not missing but punky like wet gypsum drywall.)  This was from likely a combination of the wood in the keel buss (C-30,) water leaking down the keel bolt threads, and improper blocking exacerbating the crack after the joint had been compromised.  After researching and opinions from Geoguon Brothers (West Systems - excellent advice ) and Frank (useless) I choose to drop, repair (resurface the top of), and rebed the fin.

Cliff my point is that you don't know what you have until you know what you have, and that takes grinding out the joint to reveal the condition.  Alternately, I suppose you could drill into the joint in several places to see if the cuttings are muck or competent, and then decide how far to go with your grinding.  It won't eliminate any needed work, but you might get a fair warning up-front as to what's in front of you and how to attack it.  On the pats of the joint that were still competent, it was a BEAR. I ended up drilling from side-to-side (long 3/8" electrician bit) to create "serrations" that I cut between with a Sawzall w/ a carbide grit blade.  Actually BLADES, the fiberglass ate them up like candy.

If you hesitate to grind to uncover the extent and want to avoid the task -- just leave it and hide it cosmetically -- your keel won't fall off.

Main Message Board / Re: Fixing leaking fixed portlights
« on: January 06, 2020, 10:52:25 PM »
Sorry to resurrect an old post here but I am planning to to reinstall my aft windows/port lights
I read that a combo of the 3H VHB/Dow 795 is not recommended by those who have tried but I was wondering whether a 3H VHB/Butyl tape combo might work any better.? I was thinking the tape would provide the adhesion qualities needed and then if I ran a generous bead of butyl next to it it would provide the water proofing/gap filling qualities?

The VHB doesn't have enough long-term holding oomph (for the butyl tape, which has to be held in tight compression (as in under a deck fitting) in order to not fail from weathering, etc.)

The way to go is 795 with the plexi temporarily held in place by internal suction cups, or external duct tape or wood blocking.  You don't need (in fact you don't WANT) compression during the cure - just held in place.

Main Message Board / Re: Latest Boating Safety Topic
« on: December 31, 2019, 09:42:53 PM »
Safety Newsletters (most recent first)

NOAA Charts Coming to an end

Coast Guard Smart Phone App

Vessel Meeting and Overtaking Situations

Main Message Board / Re: Rebedding stanchion with wet deck
« on: December 15, 2019, 06:33:50 PM »
You didnít say - did you use heat for 6?
Whatís your climate?
If youíve gotten out all the rot that you can get to, whatís your measurement of it still being wet?
Need more detail to say much specific.

Are you in a situation where you can vacuum bag it - thatís how to dry out core.

Epoxy cures by chemical reaction and temp - not by drying/evaporation so moisture doesnít affect it much. But yes, you wonít get much infusion into the rotted core.

I donít know how well acetone entrains moisture - who said to use that. Iíd use Rubbing alcohol.

Main Message Board / Re: Mast Refinish
« on: December 08, 2019, 02:09:56 PM »

No info on clear-coating, but can say I painted my spars maybe 22? yrs ago.  No chipping (well except on the boom where it was my fault.)  I did all the prep, a client who manufactured/painted redimix truck aluminum bodies ordered for me the Dupont products to use, and a friend sprayed it in the yard (a couple of hrs total one no-wind afternoon.) 
I prepped by sanding, removing all paint, etching. 
The day of painting I cleaned again (3M pads), used an etch w/ 3M pads, he sprayed an etching primer, a 2nd primer, and 2 coats Dupont Imron finish.  All were very quick drying.

Main Message Board / Re: Fuel gauge sender question
« on: November 26, 2019, 01:47:39 PM »

Thanks, that's what I thought. The wiring is obviously not the original, as the wire going to the fuel pump is blue, and the wire going to the gauge is black. This is in line with the wind gauge which reads 180 degrees off and was obviously put on backwards.

You're obviously headed the wrong direction, turn the pointy end around.

A light blue wire is ABYC standard for oil pressure, and dark blue is lighting circuits.
And black is **always** a DCv negative (unless it's an ACv hot) :shock: Outch.

Main Message Board / Re: Fuel gauge sender question
« on: November 23, 2019, 08:45:39 PM »
No that is complete back-a$$wards.  No hot wire goes to the sender. Only a pink signal wire from the gauge.  And the body of the sender grounded.

PS the gauge should pin low with the pink wire removed from the sender.
The pink wire is connected to the S terminal of the gauge and the gauge is sensing the impedance of the circuit to ground, thru the variable resistance of the level sender.
Hot juice goes to only the gauge.
The sender may be grounded directly to a 12v negative (the most reliable way) but it could also be grounded to the tank ( the tank should also be bonded to the negative buss (green 14 ga wire.))
Make sure there is a proper gauge ground - the OEM harness negative to the exhaust manifold stud is TERRIBLE and should be redone correctly.  As well the battery negative cable should be on a starter bolt, not on the bell housing.

Main Message Board / Re: New sails Experiences/Recommendations
« on: November 21, 2019, 06:02:30 PM »

I always roll mine up so the sheets are wrapped around the furled sail about 3 or 4 times. It may not look as neat, but it prevents that from happening.

Another thing I do for "storage" is to use one of the old (3/8? 5/16"?) reefing lines that PO had on my original main.  It's maybe 24" long?  Just enough for two wraps around the furled sail, one wrap above, one below the sheets - which I can reach on the 30 standing on the pulpit, and a square knot.  She's safe and sound.

Main Message Board / Re: outhaul car
« on: November 21, 2019, 05:56:56 PM »

Some have used a Delrin Super Slug in place of the OEM slide and have reported great success...!Slugs-Slides

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