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Messages - KWKloeber

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 282
Main Message Board / Re: How do I remove the oil pressure switch?
« on: December 07, 2021, 08:05:36 PM »

If there's a number on the old switch I may be able to find out its thread pitch.  There are many aftermarket switches that are JIS/BSPT, ISO, and other threads.

On the new one, it depends on what you want to call "official"  - it's an "official" Kubota engine so the official one switch a Kb 15841-39013, half the Wb cost

(these have REALLY gone up - the last cost I have on them was Kb-$18 and WB-$24.   
There's aftermarket ones sold for about half the cost.

Main Message Board / Re: How do I remove the oil pressure switch?
« on: December 06, 2021, 07:08:06 PM »
PS: the OEM switch is below (thanks to Ron.). Turn you phone or computer monitor 90 degrees to the left to see the Phillips slots on the hex-head machine screw terminal.  Ron said it’s 7mm hex.


The old switch is not OEM Kubota, it had been replaced before. The Kubota switch has a hex head/Philips screw so it uses a ring terminal.  It opens around 5-9 psi.  It takes a 15/16” socket (per Ron.)  Did you compare the old to the Kubota switch?  Perhaps the non OEM switch caused the issue?

The MasterPro 2-8000 switch is 1/8” NPT (27/inch pitch)  The engine block is 1/8” JIS/BSPT thread (28/inch pitch.). So there was a better choice.

Note there’s a Universal service bulletin cautioning that using other than a socket made for an oil switch may damage the switch and cause a leak.

Main Message Board / Re: Something leaking from top of engine
« on: December 05, 2021, 08:14:05 AM »
PS: is a decent place to order parts online.  Many of the Kubota manuals I posted came from those folks.

Ahhhh, ok NOW I see. The bottom picture didn’t open when looking at the post on my phone.
Check the service (Technical) Manual on the Wiki - it might discuss something about disassembling the gear cover.

The wiki will also have the Kubota part numbers for the Water Flange and the Gear Case gaskets, o-rings.  I would replace the oil relief valve and TStat while you have it off.

I wonder what caused the crack. Maybe the alternator bracket?

Main Message Board / Re: Changing lens and gasket
« on: December 05, 2021, 03:04:42 AM »
Caveat: I’m unfamiliar with the ports on the C34, but if that are Lewmar and you have ANY questions about Lewmar, talk to Peter Linwick (561) 863-7444.
He is the USA Lewmar expert.
Tell him I sent you.

Main Message Board / Re: Something leaking from top of engine
« on: December 04, 2021, 08:38:27 PM »
What plate behind the thermostat? 
The picture pointing to the thermostat housing isn’t helpful as it doesn’t show what plate you’re referring to.
Can you post a better picture?

Main Message Board / Re: How do I remove the oil pressure switch?
« on: December 04, 2021, 08:32:33 PM »

McMaster has many configurations of oil hoses on the shelf if you can find one the correct length in either a 1/8” or 1/4” NPT thread.
There’s also a stainless braid hose that can be made to length w/ 1/8” NPT ends.

I had also thought that copper tubing with compression fittings would work. There’s vibration but zero relative movement between the two points on the engine block at either end of the tubing.

As far as the other end it wouldn’t be a big deal to cut out n drill a small 1/8” plate that bolts to the unused engine mount land holes, and have a tee brazed to it.  That’s all Wb does (then paints it red.). The one I ordered was just a brass tee (flat faces) brazed to the plate.

Main Message Board / Re: How do I remove the oil pressure switch?
« on: November 30, 2021, 05:40:31 PM »

Note that the Wb hose (for the XPA) seems an inch or so two too short -- it took adding an additional fitting to shorten the distance between the oil port and tee.  Since these are made by human hands it might be an anomaly or just be Westerbeke quality "control."  I'd think one could make up a hose locally -- it's relatively low pressure, not like a hydraulic hose.

Main Message Board / Re: Twin Backstays on a Mark 1.25?
« on: November 30, 2021, 05:28:25 PM »
The mast truck (as it is) doesn't "support" two backstay.  There's a (horseshoe-like) clevis that swivels on a clevis pin that fits across the truck.  The single backstay pins to the open end (horseshoe legs) of the clevis.   But there's no reason that the connection couldn't be "adjusted" to allow two stays.

There are a couple of ways to do it.

1) Move the split plate for the bridle up to the truck, so that it (instead of the main backstay) swivels on the clevis (you might need a longer clevis shackle (horseshoe) but that's no big deal.)  That's an easy "proper" way because at each pull point there are pinned (hinged) connections, so the stress is absolutely perpendicular to each clevis pin -- no twist or skew can be introduced at any connection.

2) Get Garhauer to make a slightly different clevis with the leg opening of the shackle sized to fit two backstay connections -- essentially double the open-width of the end of the shackle "horseshoe" so it accommodates two stay fittings.  You might find an on-the-shelf clevis shackle that could be opened up to accommodate two stay fittings.  That method exerts all pull perpendicular in one plane on the clevis pin connection but **could** introduce a skewed pull and wear in another plane (albeit with such a large distance to the transom, the angle between the two stays is really insignificant.)

You might be able to use the current clevis shackle and substitute a longer clevis pin that will pass thru it and catch the two backstay connections on the outside of the ("horseshoe") legs.  In the center of the shackle place a spacer on the clevis pin to hold the "horseshoe" legs separated/parallel.  An issue that way is that one backstay connection would constantly ride/wear against the cotter that holds the clevis pin in place (although you could put a washer between them.)  But a more secure fix is: use a clevis pin threaded on just the end, a nylock nut, and (belt/suspenders) a cotter to keep the nut captive.

It's easier to diagram it than explain it.  :shock: :shock: 

An option of course is to simply lengthen the bridle and move the split plate higher.

A decent rigger can figure it out, but unfortunately, it eliminates the ability to add a backstay adjuster (on the bridle.)

Main Message Board / Re: Accidental Drowning
« on: November 29, 2021, 07:04:49 PM »
That’s terrible.

Here’s a thought that we all should follow on the off season boarding/disembarking or even being on the docks.  Wear a life jacket.  I’m in year round but on the off season the marina is deserted. I’m on a tee, so boarding is more difficult and involves a short step ladder and involves the sprit and bow rail. I was there once thinking, what the hell could happen if the step ladder gave way? (There’s no ladders and in 40F water I don’t know whether I’d make it swimming to the nearest shoreline (which would also be deserted if I was hurt or hypothermic in freezing weather.
After that I keep a life jacket in the auto so I have it even if unexpectedly at the boat. 
It’s not macho but sure can save a life.

Main Message Board / Re: How do I remove the oil pressure switch?
« on: November 25, 2021, 03:02:11 PM »

I’ve done this 3-4 times.

There’s two ways - the first is to remote-locate the switch and gauge sender as Wb did on the “A” engines and is currently on the “B” engines.  Wb has a part that’s a brass tee brazed onto a bracket that mounts onto the unused engine mount land - there’s an angle adapter for the oil port and an extension hose to the bracket. 

The remote mount can be anywhere - the original M25s had an extension hose to a block for the oil switch and a gauge sender (an option on Universal engine panels) mounted to the Hx bracket. See #s 11, 20, & 14 below.  I moved my switch over to the engine block when at about age 15 the extension hose deteriorated and started weeping.

See the hose, bracket, (2-prong) switch that’s on the A engines on the next pic.

The 2nd way is to extend the port with a 1/8” pipe nipple, but the tee should be supported (maybe by a bracket hanging down from a strap bolted to the exhaust manifold studs?)  The pipe nipple busting off at the engine block due to the weight/moment arm created could ruin a sailing day.

The port and switch are 1/8” JIS thread (Japanese Industrial Standard) which is functionally the same as 1/8” BSPT (British Standard Pipe Taper.)  McMaster carries an adapter and adapter nipples and BSPT fittings.
So you need to either get an NPT switch for the tee or stay with JIS thread and find a JIS/BSPT gauge sender. ###

### (all that said, the key difference is that NPT thread pitch is 27/inch and JIS is 28/inch.  So practically speaking you could screw NPT into JIS and *it works* but it’s not the *proper* way.
I did that mismatch before I learned enough to realize the engine and oil switch were not NPT pipe thread.)

Main Message Board / Re: I need a new Winter Cover next year
« on: November 24, 2021, 08:02:31 AM »

If it fit well couldn’t you ship (or drive) it to them to dupe it?
Was that Custom Canvas?

Main Message Board / Re: Rudder Play Fix options
« on: November 22, 2021, 08:59:32 AM »

I thought my radial wheel had nutted thru bolts when I did my rudder tube fix but regardless they easily came out or loosened up. You might be looking at snapping them and getting them drilled out if all else fails and replacing with thru bolts. You might talk to Edson.
If nothing moves after repeated soaking and gentle heat and an impact driver, I’d be thinking about gingerly drilling an access hole in to the edge of the bolt so that I could get penetrant into where it needs to go.  If nothing else worked I’d have nothing to lose trying that.

I had posted reviews of different corrosion penetrant tests on the forum a few yrs back,10041.msg76901.html#msg76901

Main Message Board / Re: Rudder Play Fix options
« on: November 21, 2021, 11:41:32 PM »
There is nothing to split or cut off.  Bolts go into the threaded holes in the quadrant itself.

Which bolts are you referring to - not holding the “radial wheel” to the rudder stock?  Are you referring to bolts that hold the two halves of the RW together?

Note that the Mylar fix was meant to go under the tiller cap (my-I) not under the stuffing box. It’s a very temporary fix (depending of course how you use the boat.  It’s like asking how long does a tank of diesel last?)

I did the resin/embedded graphite re-bearing surface in the tube that worked very well.  A C30 owner devised/installed an actual bearing at the bottom of the tube. I can connect you with that info if you care to investigate that route.

Main Message Board / Re: How do I remove the oil pressure switch?
« on: November 16, 2021, 07:41:23 PM »
You might have the elusive switch that you cannot get a socket on.
It seems that there are some exhaust manifolds that are either slightly out of place or maybe the casing is different.  I don't see another reason why some can get at the switch and others cannot.

Read this thread

I believe that Matt still has his magic socket.

Once you get it out you might consider installing a hose and remote switch (as Wb does on the B engines.)

Main Message Board / Re: Model/Make Glo Plugs for our engines
« on: November 15, 2021, 04:32:14 PM »

It’s exactly the same wiring harness and path as 007’s boat and every non-B engine in a C30.  In other words he knows exactly what the path is and the unnecessary mod does.

And the precise path is from the starter solenoid B terminal, thru the harness and back to plug #3.  The amps (and V loss) thru the battery cable to the B terminal and back to the battery (negative cable) is irrelevant.

What gets lost in the smoke and dust raised is, for those who want the mod (Their Boat Their Choice) it boils down to one absolute simple fact:  10 or 20 seconds is more important than heeding the manufacturer’s warning and commonsense boat wiring to KISS. 
It’s that simple, no fluff, no supportive/justifying scenarios or obfuscation either pros or cons is needed.

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