On sale this week
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When we tried to start the engine, nothing happened. I knew exactly what it was, because ten years earlier I had replaced the start button to starter solenoid fuse holder, and had since relocated it to a more accessible spot (see Critical Upgrades). I hopped down below, opened the engine compartment and messed with the fuse holder, and asked Morgan to try to start the engine. It turned over this time, but didn't start because it was cold. By then those large racing sailboats were bearing down on us, having slid out of the dead zone and hit the breeze. We could see the bones in their teeth, a few heading right for us.
I told Morgan to hit the glow plug button for 12-15 seconds, and then the engine started right up. And we motored out of their way, close call.
Do I mind being able to start my engine faster? No.
Do I need it all the time? No.
Do I appreciate having it. You betcha.
We purchased this 3 inch heat exchanger about four years ago and it's worked wonders on our engine heating issues. We periodically check and replace zincs in the heat exchanger. But there's a growing amount of corrosion around the nipple for the zinc threads. I'm wondering if others have seen this happen, and believing I need to change that soon or else I'm gonna have a leak?
The Kubota Parts Manual for the M-25XPB is on the TechWiki under "Manuals". Page 24 shows the closed coolant pump. The M-35BC should fit the same pump as the M-25XPB.
The current Kubota p/n is 16241-73034, available from a Kubota dealer, or online at www.messicks.com, or online at Kumar Brothers.
Kumar is not Kubota OEM parts, but they are cheaper and I have NOT heard of Kumar problems.
To clarify, "Kubota manual for the M-25XPB engine" means the manual for the Kubota "cousin engine" of the "Universal XPB," which is a Kubota D-1005.
One "cousin engine" for the M-35B, is the Kubota V1305.
I just now uploaded the manual to the TechWiki site for you. The p/n for that engine is 16251-73032 and 16251-73034. (They may have different impellers)
A problem sometimes occurs getting parts out of the Kubota manual when it shows two or three different part numbers depending upon the Kubota engine serial number. The Universal serial number is different than the Kubota serial number.
BTW, on page 18 of the D-1005 manual, you'll see a knock-out on the intake manifold, to the right of the air intake tube. Kubota p/n 16241-05550 (on page 39 of the V1305 manual,) fits into the knockout hole and you can connect the crankcase breather hose there, instead of zip-tying it alongside the foam "filter" as Wb does.
Quote from: kwaltersmi on May 05, 2017, 05:33:03 PM
I launched today with my M25 XPB and the Sherwood pump is leaking. After opening it up to check the impeller, it looks like the rubber on the seal (Parts 10 through 12 - 30288X) was torn and was coming out. It dripped about 1 drop every 2 seconds at idle on launch, but quit dripping altogether once I was underway for the 3 mile motor to my marina. No dripping when I arrived at my dock.
Should I replace the seal in the Sherwood pump? Is this difficult to do? Should I swap in the Oberdorfer (is it 908?) pump instead? Should I leave it alone and wait for it to leak again even though part of the rubber from the seal came out of the pump when I opened prior to motoring to my marina?
Quote from: mark_53 on November 30, 2016, 05:04:58 PMQuote from: Capt.Jim on November 26, 2016, 06:04:26 PM
When Honda Goldwings in the early 2000s found out that mainframe cracks were appearing they were recalled.
Is there such a thing happened with Catalina @ Woodlands Hill ever?
I mean after all isn't this a production/engineering defect ?
Excellent question for a judge to decide. Hire a lawyer, pay him/her big$$$$ and take it to court and let us know. On the other hand you can fix it and move on.
Another option would be to call Catalina Yachts and ask them to fix the defect on your 30 year old boat. Hang up if the chuckling lasts more than a minute.
Quote from: Noah on May 01, 2016, 09:44:27 AM
The PRIMARY filter (whether it be a Racor spin-on or 500 series turbine drop-in, or Dahl, etc.) is generally under the head sink and should be a 2 micron. Although Maine Sail recommened against this in boats where you are uncertain of fuel/tank quality. The SECONDARY filter is the spin-on filter on the engine. This is generally 10-30 microns and can be a variety of brands, not necessarily Racor. Do I have this correct?
Quote from: Jon W on May 01, 2016, 08:28:01 AM
They recommend it for marine applications, but not as the primary filter element.