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A wiring diagram for this work could well start from this diagram

https://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:Harness4.png

One comment for anyone who will be working on their panel and/or harness.

The panel schematic https://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=File:Harness4.png
(from Seaward) shows the PB circuit Breaker on the panel, which was standard for newer Seaward/Catalina Direct panels to protect the lighter gauge panel/gauges/lighting wiring. 

However, how Seaward wired it and Dennis continued to do panels for CD, it does not protect the alarm and light gauge alarm and alternator excite wires that run back to the engine compartment.  While it is "unlikely" that something would happen behind the panel to energize the oil or temp switch wires it could happen, and the Alt wire is powered whenever the key is on.  If there's a direct short to ground on these on their way to or in the engine compartment, with them not protected by the panel breaker they could catch fire before the larger main fuse on the 12v+ feed to the panel blows.

I rewired two CD panels for customers that I found wired that way (initially because heat shrink terminals are not used on Seaward/CD panels and I also found two quick-connect terminals pulled off in my hand.)  While rewiring I changed those wires to be protected by the panel circuit breaker and switched it to 20a (I thought it was a titch low for the blower plus other stuff -- probably overkill.)

Just a thought when working on your wiring -- not as important as putting a main fuse on the feed to the panel, but there's no reason to wire the breaker as it was -- so why not fix that?

you'll still have to deal with the mung in the pump, the hose to the pump, and the valve.

The valve should be placed at the pump inlet, not at the tank outlet.

[ON TOP of the battery cable lug, not underneath it]

The red #10 wire comes down from the ignition switch at the cock pit panel,  which i believe needs power to feed the instrument panel.

just not sure where to connect it . my first thought is from the large Battery post on the solenoid and again i would guess it should be fused but not certain of either.

As you mentioned the yellow/red wire comes down from the starter button.

Peter

Yes, the (#10, red) power feed to the panel can be connected to the solenoid "B" (battery post.  ON TOP of the battery cable lug, not underneath it.

An issue is that it is difficult to get a proper ring terminal suitable for the purpose;  They are all too light for that use where there is movement/vibration. 
Whenever I build a custom harness, I use an FTZ brand. #8 x 5/16" (or M8) starter lug.  I strip the #10 a titch more than double-long, fold it over on itself and crimp it in the #8 lug (two #10s equal a #8 cable.)  I use heavy-duty (mil-spec, double wall) heat shrink over the lug/crimp for strain relief and resistance bend/work-hardening failure.
AS MANY as these as I have made up over the years, I don't believe I had ever grabbed a photo.  My BAD.

Now for the fuse -- YES the panel feed MUST be fused, otherwise it's a fire hazard!!!
I use a tinned-copper, #10 gauge, ATC (blade) fuse holder.  My fuse holder pigtail is what is crimped to the #8 x 5/16" lug, and the other end is butt crimped to the #10 power wire to the panel.

If you can't find a proper fuse holder, I am looking at about 50 of them in front of me and will gladly send you one!

Pic #1 shows the FTZ starter lug (on the starboard side) the other two are cheapo crap -- an Ancor lug and another "internet" lug.  You can easily see why FTZ is the way to go.

#2 pic is similar to how I fuse it but this is a "maxi fuse" for a heavy-duty (8 gauge) harness on a Canadian Sailcraft.

#3 pic (on a Catalina/Universal engine) shows the in-line ATC fuse holder but obviously, you can't see the crimp/heat shrink due to the boot on the solenoid B post.

#4 shows the good, secure, hefty FTZ #8 lug on the solenoid B post (it is on top of the battery and "alternator charge" cables.)  (the black "battery" cable (actually to ground the starter) was used for illustration purposes; I hadn't made up a red cable for this customer.)  The point is, the heaviest amperage (battery) on first, second greatest amperage (alt charge,} then the lightest amperage (panel feed cable.)

I just can't get the whole "picture together" dang it.

[not any Marine PB switch is proper]

it appears that any marine push button switch should work.

Sierra Heavy Duty Push Button Starter Switch

Greg NO, not any Marine PB switch is proper, a switch, is not a switch. is not a switch.  The devil is in the details. 

For example the CD switch is rated only 10 amp.

There are Cole Hersee switches rated 10 amp (with 18-ga pigtails!!)

For Preheating (unless you have an "A" or "B" series engine or the preheat solenoid/relay Mod, it should be a 30-amp switch. 

That Sierra switch is rated 30 amo, but I believe that Cole Hersee switches are better quality than Sierra, if you can get CH switches locally or with reasonable shipping (Amazon.ca??)

-Ken

.

being able to isolate the holding tank from the macerator so I could swap in my spare macerator would have been beneficial.

Mick

Color me confused.  Op said you were looking to isolate the tank, and I explained that you can, indeed, do what you wanted. 
Have you now decided to stay "status quo"?

Cheers
Ken

[No no, Garfunkle]

take a long screwdriver (with wood or plastic handle) - lay the shank on the starter solenoid stud then touch the engine block with the tip of the screwdriver

Ron:
No no, Garfunkle.  You'll hear the Sounds of Silence.  

One needs to short the solenoid "S" (start) terminal to the solenoid "B" (battery) terminal (i.e., apply 12v to the solenoid or alternately as Alex did, to the fuse pigtail.)  Grounding the "S" terminal does nothing, it needs 12v to energize the coil and pull in the switch. 

Some old "Ford type" solenoids needed a negative to energize the the coil (like on a positive chassis,) but that was not the norm. (Without dating myself) I used to short the solenoid battery cable lug to the "S" terminal on my Mercury Comet.


Greg, also remember that the weakest links are improper wire gauge from the start switch, a bad (key or push-button) start switch or corroded/loose terminals, bad (corroded) battery cable NEGATIVE lugs, NOT moving the negative battery cable lug to the starter bolt (i.e., keeping it on the bell housing) and ESPECIALLY the poorly designed "S" terminal itself (even after the fuse holder is replaced.)
https://groups.io/g/Catalina30/wiki/7401
https://groups.io/g/Catalina30/wiki/11336

Vent hoses and stanchion hose barbs don't cause lesks, PEOPLE cause them!!

The deck thru-hole simply reveals you have a problem that could have been avoided!

Hi Craig,
I'm most interested in how you confirmed it was the guage, as I am currently dealing with exactly the same symptoms as you.
regards,
Allan

Allan

Have you gone thru the Teleflex troubleshooting guide steps for the temp gauge?
What other troubleshooting steps have you done?

My usual auto parts store doesn't have the radiator cap pressure tester to loan/rent.

Usually Advance Auto, Autozone, O'Reilly and sometimes NAPA rent them.
Harbor Freight sells a kit.

Or, buy a gauge, bicycle pump, and a couple pipe fittings and test thru the thermostat cap.  You'll probably want a valve in line to isolate the pump once you pressurize the system because the pump might leak a little.  You also need to know the pressure rating of your cap and not exceed that. I'd buy a high psi cap - like 20 psi - just for the test.

Questions

Have you downloaded and read the parts manual for your engine? - It really helps when identifying engine parts.

Have you studied the coolant flow diagram (it shows seawater and closed)  - it can help to ID every place that a hose connection could be loose.

What's your annual PM on the cooling systems on the engine?

****

If you post good pics of your engine it can often help to ID issues. 
Help US to help YOU.

***

Coolant could be theoretically leaking from anywhere there is coolant, including if there (unlikely) a hole in the WH.

Coolant can be lost if there is a pinhole leak between the seawater and coolant sides of the Hx, although it should not show up in the bilge.

Coolant can also be lost if there is a pinhole leak between the potable HW vessel and coolant ("heatant") loop in the WH. It would depend on the relative pressures which way each fluid would be pushed. Obviously it would not be good, as (there is a very slight chance that) toxic coolant could be pushed into the potable water supply.

Tom

That's a Shurflo 170-061-29 strainer that is NLA.  I suspect it was discontinued when Pentair gobbled up Shurflo along with everything else now under that umbrella.

You might find that a tiny skim of SuperLube on the o-ring might help make seating the top easier.  Otherwise replace it with the current hi-hat strainer.

Ken- the water heaters in the C34 are located under the galley sink just above the floorboards.

Yep I know that

Jon

"Yes."  Thanks!

Hey Jon/Ron

THANKS!  Got it.  What threw me was that I was envisioning Ron using the PAR to pump from a jug of 50-50 INTO/through the closed system.  That method will work well for the issues on my mk-I -- the WH is high (in the cockpit sail locker) and that's where air in the closed system ends up.

So the PAR procedure sucks coolant from the closed system pump, thru the WH and depends on gravity for coolant to flow from the Exh Manifold, through the Hx, block, and back to the TSTat. 

Since Brian's issue was that the airlock was located in the pump, have you ever found that the PAR method won't draw well on a recently drained/filled system because it can't pull from an empty pump? (yes I know that the recommendation is to fill the pump.) 

Just asking, do you think that it would be effective to turn the PAR around and suck FROM the Exh Manifold and PUSH it through the WH?   That would be using the PAR to push coolant into the pump.

@Dan

I believe the tank should have  90 ell on top for the vent hose. At least that's what my 30 has so it fits under the cubby cover.

Being on the Great Lakes the PO probably removed the macerator, or maybe when she was first commissioned.  Either way, its nothing to concern yourself with (unless you plan on ocean cruising.)