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Messages - KWKloeber

#1
Main Message Board / Re: Reassembly of Cooling System
February 01, 2024, 08:31:25 AM
1. Hose barbs are tapered thread. You don't use thread lock on pipe joints, besides thread lock (super glue) would be useless against a teflon surface (ptfe tape). Use teflon tape or pipe dope or actually plumbers sometimes use both when it's a difficult thread under pressure, but you don't need both for this.

2. Don't use a petroleum-based product.  Use ptfe - like SuperLube Gel (which is a required staple on every vessel.)
Or Lanakote or similar slippery gel.
#2
Main Message Board / Re: OIl leak
January 24, 2024, 07:17:31 PM
Guenter

I doubt that it is from the pan gasket.  The oil level in te sump is below that and there's no pressure to push oil past the gasket.  I'd think that it would need to be a seriously obvious compromise of the gasket to do that.

Had you laid down a pad to tell exactly where it is dripping from?  Leaking Oil can travel and drip in another location!

Help us help us you!  There are no left and right on a boat! 
Maybe a photo showing where you think it's dripping from?  Or a very good description.

-Ken
#3
Main Message Board / 35% off Lewmar hatches
January 21, 2024, 09:39:09 AM
#4
Main Message Board / Re: K75 motor mounts.
January 20, 2024, 01:56:30 AM
"These were the mounts from Catalina direct. Mine was drilled cockeyed."

Noah,
I took "mine" as "the ones I received."
Good chance that I misinterpreted that?
#5
Main Message Board / Re: K75 motor mounts.
January 19, 2024, 09:41:16 PM
Quote from: SV Sand Pebble on January 13, 2024, 11:23:46 AM

  These were the mounts from Catalina Direct. Mine was drilled cockeyed.


George

Those engine isolators (I won't even get into the modern bastardization of the terms "engine" vs "motor") are directly out of Westerbeke parts bins and there's no question in my mind that what you received was typical (for these days) Westerbeke crap.  They had sold me so many bad parts over what were the final 10 years (before I gave up supplying Wb parts as a Wb dealer.)  I've had to return probably a dozen parts, ranging from $50 to $200 because they were defective in manufacturing or finishing.   I could show photos of nightmare drilling, threading, tapping, etc., that would make anyone's blood boil.  The last instance was an exhaust flange that was so poorly threaded that a nipple couldn't screw in -- I had to get one at a different Wb distributor (who told me I was crazy and didn't know what the h*ll I was talking about -- until I challenged him to go right then and pull the flanges in stock, and take them out of the bags/inspect them.  I was lucky and was able to claim the only good flange out of 5 in his stock (with an apology from the distributor.))   I gave up -- between covering the shipping costs from customers back to Wb, replacements shipped to me, then shipped to customers (Wb would not cover any s/h cost and would not drop ship to the customer) it was a losing proposition to supply parts.
At the time my stocking distributor relinquished the distributorship because of the junk replacement parts!!
#6
Main Message Board / Re: ? Sudden overheating?
January 14, 2024, 12:21:34 PM
This is the classic "fix" of what I call "parts whack-a-mole."  Instead of proper strobleshooting — replace this part, then that part, then the other thingamajig.

The Teleflex troubleshooting guide is on the techwiki, is easy to follow, and very quickly allows one to determine whether it's the gauge, S wire, panel ground, etc.  It even gives the temp and resistance values to use to check if the gauge sender is at least anywhere in range. 

" With the S wire disconnected, the gauge pins low.
  When starting from cold, that gauge reads low, but quickly shows increasing temperature until it is pinned hot
."
Are not the proper troubleshooting steps. Follow the steps in the guide.
Check the gauge at the panel
Check the S circuit back to the gauge
Check the sender.
Verify a bad component.
#7
Main Message Board / Re: Heat Exchanger Maintenence
January 10, 2024, 05:16:50 PM
Quote from: Ron Hill on January 10, 2024, 02:38:51 PM

  Then you'll be go to go for ? number of years, because who knows how many broken Zns are on the inside!!


A very precise number would be zero.  Ron, how can that occur?  Looking at the flow thru the Hx on our engines,
(here:)  https://groups.io/g/Catalina30/wiki/9626#Coolant-flow-on-earlier-engines-28e-g-2C-M-252FXP2FXPA29
on the seawater side, there's no flow "backward" into the tubes.

As far as see the only place a piece of anode can end up is the "chamber" between the intermediate plate (that the tubes are brazed to) and the end cap, or it got expelled and went to the vented loop or muffler.

#8
Main Message Board / Re: Boom Vang Components
January 09, 2024, 12:36:43 PM
I made mine long enough to be certain that I could use it for:
A preventer.
A hoist at boom end to retrieve a Lifesling.

I have a Wichard snap shackle on one end and a heavy duty snap biner on the other so I can easily deploy it elsewhere.  Although it's long enough to run back to the cockpit I don't have it permanently run like that so that I can move it quickly as needed in an emergency.
#9
Main Message Board / Re: Heat Exchanger Maintenence
January 08, 2024, 10:46:30 PM
Quote from: RaymondP on January 05, 2024, 09:01:07 AM

Newbie to diesel engines, but thinking about flushing the heat exchanger/freshwater cooling side of my Universal 25, Catalina 34, 1986 vintage.  Boat is on the hard for the winter.  Has only sailed in fresh water (Great Lakes).

When winterizing i ran the engine with antifreeze to displace the water. Hopefully all good for the spring.  My question is before I return the boat to the water I could apply a similar process, but run Zep/Lime Away/other liquid(??) instead of antifreeze, leave for an hour with the engine off, and then run again with fresh water to flush.   Not looking to inadvertently create problems as temp. settles nicely at 180 degrees F once warm.  Just thinking, given the age of the boat may be a good idea to clean the heat exchanger.  No idea when it was previously cleaned if at all.



Raymond

I described the annual PM for the Hx in another "recent" posting.   Do a search for it.
It was posted in a topic about winterizing and my comments about the waste of money to, and the logical reasons for not using antifreeze (pink stuff or otherwise) in the seawater cooling system —  instead doing proper annual PM on the Hx, which negates the need for any AF in the seawater system.

Any corrosive cleaner should be used sparingly ( only IF and AS LITTLE as needed to remove what has accumulated inside the Hx tubes.   Rydlime is the safest but is difficult to find except commercially.

The best method is to keep the solution moving (like a very low flow) rather than letting a part "soak" (I could explain why but won't now) and monitor the pH, which will indicate when the removal of accumulation is complete (no more is coming off the surface and now you're down to the base metal.)

I would not be overly concerned about lime a way and an anode, but there's no reason to expose it to a cleaner. 
Zinc (a corrosion preventive coating for nuts/bolts) is less reactive to dilute HCl than magnesium (Jim's) but it's not like a large anode is going to melt away — but still, it's unnecessary to expose it. 

Yes, if the closed (FRESHwater) system hasn't been flushed/renewed that's important ( FRESHwater system is closed, the SEAwater system is open (kind of a misnomer if the boat is in freshwater, but "sea water" doesn't mean SALT water.))
#10
Quote from: Gulfsailor on December 28, 2023, 04:25:23 PM
Here is the image....I think.

I don't know which pump model you installed BUT here's the facts for anyone else who wants to make the switch


The older engine models (m-25, XP, 35, etc) that are NOT "B" model engines, the Ob pump is the N202M-16, "square" mounting flange.  If your Sw pump was a bolt-on (like the way older bolt-on Sw pumps) it will be a direct replacement.

If your Sw has a round, clip-on base you remove 6mm set screws from the TWO (unused) mounting holes on the gear cover. Install 6mm studs in the four holes in the cover and bolt up the Ob pump.
Hint: the square Kubota mounting gasket is better than the Wedterbeke one.

You can use the direct replacement N908M Ob pump BUT it's unnecessary to spend the extra cash for it.

If you have the "B" series engine the direct replacement is the N908M Ob pump.
BUT that's also an unnecessary extra cost if you are handy with a Dremel or angle grinder.   The N202M-16 pump can be reworked to be a bolt-on mount pump on the "B" engines.


(If the Sw was clip-on) once you remove the two setscrews in the gear cover and install the studs the pump land will look like the below, ready for the bolt-on N202M-16 pump.

If anyone has any oddball situation or questions just email me.
#11
Good deal!

Tom is a good guy.
Pete is often more funny!

#12
Check with Peter Linwick @ Florida Rigging
(561) 863-7444
Let us know how you make out.
#13
Catalina 34s for Sale / Re: where to list 1988 C34
January 02, 2024, 12:16:45 PM
I'd be happy to point to your listing here on our C30 forum.

Ken
#14
Quote

With CNG - a bad connection ....  is NOT a safety hazard


Folks, Be cautious about CNG leaks as well.  All explosive gasses are hazards.  Some much lower hazard than others.
True LNG it isn't going to settle into the bilge as LPG does.  Nevertheless it can be nearly as dangerous if, for example, the tank is mounted in a closed area where rising gas can be trapped. 
Such as ... when we chartered it was below a berth in a storage area where some gas would defo have been trapped. 
Mounted in that type of location there could also be an ignition source from anything (like a charger or an electrical connection or worn insulated cable running through the cubby.)
#15
Main Message Board / Re: Fish scale cracks in topsides
December 28, 2023, 10:35:44 AM
Photos?  Several photos.
Are they in areas of non skid?