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Messages - KWKloeber

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 298
1
Main Message Board / Re: Engine overheating
« on: June 28, 2022, 09:54:12 PM »
Dan you cannot ass/u/me anything.

Without you saying how new (or old) the hoses are it's hard to guess what is the cause.

If the hose is the problem, squeezing it will tell you if it could collapse under suction.  A wire-wound hose in good condition you cannot squeeze closed with your hands.  The only hoses that are under suction would be the one from the Hx back to the coolant circulation pump and the supply hose to the seawater pump.

I'd think it likely might be a blockage in the system (weeds or a piece of impeller stuck in the Hx -- pull the inlet side end cap and check for junk.)  Partial blockage of the Hx would have a similar result as the old M-25 owners who had the original 2" Hx.  No overheat at low RPM but overheating when pushing the engine.  Or an issue with the Seaward brand pump/impeller.

2
Main Message Board / Re: Keyed Ignition
« on: June 22, 2022, 06:04:32 PM »
the Cole Hersee
i see it says 5 amp in starting position

Cliff

Do a topic search on this issue - many months ago we had discussed the key switches - both CH and CD’s offerings) and the ratings. It is really really best to set up the key switch for START and a heavy duty CH push button switch for GLOW (unless one has a preheat solenoid.)


3
Main Message Board / Re: Keyed Ignition
« on: June 20, 2022, 10:18:42 AM »
I don't have a picture handy but the Westerbeke and other panels are deep enough that the key fits/sits behind the plexi. There's a circular hole cut for the key way, which has a teardrop shaped cover on a small pivot bolt that hangs over the hole.  Slide the cover aside for key access.

I forgot to mention if you don't have one on it now, to get the cole hersee weather tight cover for the new key switch.

4
Main Message Board / Re: Keyed Ignition
« on: June 20, 2022, 10:02:07 AM »
Cliff

I don't know how your panel is set up.
If you use the key to preheat, not start, (and don't have a preheat solenoid) make sure you get the switch that is rated high amps in the “start” position.

I ground down my key so that I can grab it but it's too short to step on and hurt it.

5
Main Message Board / Re: oem alternator wiring
« on: June 15, 2022, 08:27:22 AM »
@MD

Gotcha.
So are you re-cabling the bank to the starter as well with #2?

V loss wise, and ampacity wise, I’d use #6 for the alternator neg to the buss/or/to the starter just for ease of doing it. It’s only 18” IIRC for that cable.   I know what you mean about #8 - I have a dedicated hex crimper for that for starter lugs and two die crimpers I can use for power lugs.

6
Main Message Board / Re: oem alternator wiring
« on: June 14, 2022, 03:57:26 PM »
12:00 is the V Sense terminal.
3:00 is the Field Excite terminal.
4:30 is the GND terminal.
There is really no reason to run the GND wire back to the bttys.  You can run it to the NEG btty cable, which OEM is on the tranny bell housing.  If so, that cable lug should be moved from there to the outside starter bolt.
For a 51a alt I would use a #6 or #4 gauge. 
A #8 is allowable, But You Never Get A Second Chance To Overkill It The First Time.
Y’all - check your cable lugs; don't assume OEM ones are good.  This was a CTY factory crimp on a C355!!

as for check the lugs, it's all new using an ftz crimper, so if its broke, it's my fault :)

for the B+ i'm using 2awg from the batteries directly to the alt.  if i understand what you're saying, the negative post is right next to the AC tap bolt and it should be min 8awg.  i can use 2awg for the ground, but i'm afraid the power lugs i have are going to be too large for that bolt.  its not the same size as the B+ bolt

the field excite wire i'm taping off the ignition/fuel pump wire from the panel, 12awg.

where does the vsense connect to?

i'm planning to run the bell house ground and some other negative wires to a busbar in the engine bay and then 2awg back to the batteries

and just to double check the starter doesn't have a separate ground it's ground comes from the engine ground right?  it just has the positive lug and the solenoid positive wire.  is there a reason to use the starter bolt over the engine/tranny bolts as a ground

i think i got everything else hooked up right though, so we'll see, maybe this weekend, if it actually starts up again... :)


Lugs should go down to #10 hole. I believe that’s the size of the GND.  At least I buy them down to that size.
The AO post should be 1/4”.

The alt will put out only 50a absolute PEAK, and your Alt HAS voltage sense (not typical)!! so why use 2 awg???  Crazy cookoo but YBYC.

Note that the previous diagram I posted was for a customer who didn't want to sense btty V.

I did a diagram of two different ways to hook up a negative buss in the engine compartment.
https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,11183.msg88980.html#msg88980

Let me suggest, and take this is the spirit it's meant, if one rips out an Alt w/out making a schematic, doesn't know why to run a NEG to the heavy-load starter, and doesn't know what V sense does - it might behoove one to get a professional to help them rewire.  It isn't something to be done without knowing the most basic items about the charging system. I'd hate to screw that up!!




7
Main Message Board / Re: oem alternator wiring
« on: June 14, 2022, 12:43:37 PM »

I understand, but I drew the diagram which shows the internal regulator on the back of the alternator which should allow you to figure out what posts are which.


Stu

He has a different alt than the 2094K series and has different terminal locations and a V sense which yours doesn’t.

8
Main Message Board / Re: oem alternator wiring
« on: June 14, 2022, 12:39:37 PM »
MD

On that alt the model no is on a sticker on the back. I have a pic of one with an “intact” sticker.

Most have a sticker with the model no of the REGULATOR not the alt model number.  (The alt model is stamped into the side of the case at the forward end.)
Yours MIGHT ALSO have the model number stamped in, behind the belt, on the side part of the case near the hinge point.

Doesn’t matter though, it’s a 8EM2017KA.

I’m on the road and can answer your other Q?s later.


9
Main Message Board / Re: oem alternator wiring
« on: June 13, 2022, 09:28:08 PM »
MD

It *appears* that you have an 8EM2017KA (51 amp). 


12:00 is the V Sense terminal.
3:00 is the Field Excite terminal.
4:30 is the GND terminal.

There is really no reason to run the GND wire back to the bttys.  You can run it to the NEG btty cable, which OEM is on the tranny bell housing.  If so, that cable lug should be moved from there to the outside starter bolt.

For a 51a alt I would use a #6 or #4 gauge. 
A #8 is allowable, But You Never Get A Second Chance To Overkill It The First Time.


Y’all - check your cable lugs; don't assume OEM ones are good.  This was a CTY factory crimp on a C355!!


10
Main Message Board / Re: Haulout Time
« on: June 11, 2022, 07:13:33 AM »
Ron,

Yes, they certainly can be fussy little bastards!

Ken,

It's nice to know that's what CD recommends, although Jim might have a point about Catalina using different nuts, when I put three rings in mine there was almost no space left and I could only get one turn on the nut before it started compressing the packing.

To be clear I didn't say CD recommends anything, only that CD sells one size. 

11
Main Message Board / Re: Haulout Time
« on: June 08, 2022, 02:53:32 PM »
Interestingly, CD sells only 3/16” to replace prop shaft stuffin’

Makes ya wonder.

12
Main Message Board / Re: Adding a Roller Reefing Cleat
« on: June 08, 2022, 07:37:46 AM »
“Fully glass” doesn’t mean “not attackable.”  Think, “Blisters.”.
Why would anyone want to spend the time and money (a lot more than potting two 1/4” holes) to barrier coat?

Polyester resin substrate is hydrophilic, loves to  lap up water, and turn to basically mush (I call it wet gypsum drywall.)  I got that tee shirt.
Is the potential high for very localized, non critical damage? ...Absolutely.
Is the potential low for water getting to the substrate? ...Absolutely. 
Is it worth the couple hrs saved “worth it” not to pot? ...Depends.  Probably not if the owner is among the “I don't have the time to hold my preheat button more than 5 seconds,” persuasion.
It's always a YBYC type of thing.

14
Main Message Board / Re: Adding a Roller Reefing Cleat
« on: June 07, 2022, 08:43:21 PM »


What should I use to bed the cleat to the deck? Some kind of silicone?
On the underside, I’m debating whether to use a glassfiber backing plate or just penny washers. This cleat isn’t going to be taking huge loads, so I’m thinking that a full-blown backing plate would be overkill.



What you bed it with is not as important as properly potting the thru-fastener holes, and countersinking those holes and the underneath of the cleat base before you use whatever bedding.

YBYC but IIWMB I’d never use sillycone unless there was a specific need for that product (VERY RARELY there is.)
Butyl is my go to unless for some reason I need to use a sealant “from a tube.”

As far as backing certainly the large diameter fender washers (they come different ODs for a given ID) or a plate — “you never get a second chance to overkill something on the first try”

See Rodds (mainesail) website for how to properly pot the thru holed.

15
Main Message Board / Re: Interesting 5200 remover
« on: June 01, 2022, 08:12:51 PM »
PS gave it a check mark
https://www.practical-sailor.com/boat-maintenance/removing-3m-5200

But it’s “unavailable”

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