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Messages - KWKloeber

#1
Quote from: Sailing_Sona_Linn on Yesterday at 04:19:08 PMDoes anyone have any experience removing the horizontal cross bar on their Pushpit? I would like it out of the way to improve egress.  I can definitely cut it out and grind it flush.  I am curious if that might create some unanticipated structural weakness.

Chris

My plan is to replace the solid tube with a hinged tube, w/ a spring-loaded pin on one end for easy disengagement to flip it open -- either vertically or horizontally (kept from flopping w/ a bungee.)  Or for safety sake, use something more secure  on that end so that it cannot open accidentally, like a bolt or a clevis pin secured with a hitch pin.  There's other ways the bar can be made removable (and not be hinged,) so it depends on how often it needs to be removed.
 
#2
Main Message Board / Re: Winch on Boom?
Today at 10:16:50 AM
Quote from: shehant on Today at 09:45:24 AMThanks all - makes sense that its for reefing. 


Can you describe exactly where it is and what size winch?

No, it doesn't make sense (IMO anyway -- others may disagree) to have ANY winch ANYWHERE to reef.  One doesn't "haul down" a main by the reef cringles.  You either reef it (1st or 2nd cringles) as a parallel operation head-to-wind while raising the main, or if reefing after underway, drop the main to the reef points (1st or 2nd) and then harden up on the halyard.

And where precisely is the reef hook on the mast?

Thx
Ken
#3
Main Message Board / Re: Winch on Boom?
March 26, 2024, 06:14:11 PM
Quote from: Noah on March 26, 2024, 06:06:02 PMA photo would tell. I am guessing his is "at the mast" not "on the mast" (i.g. at the gooseneck).
Picture? What a unique approach LOL.

If one were on the mast I'm thinking it might be a P.O. tie-back for lazy jacks?
#4
Main Message Board / Re: Winch on Boom?
March 26, 2024, 05:34:56 PM
Noah

On the boom or on the gooseneck, yes.  But in the mast?
#5
Quote from: Jim Hardesty on March 23, 2024, 06:32:23 AMThe wiring on Shamrock is in a short pipe, 8"? high, then all sealed with sealer, maybe silicon but not sure.

It's best to seal the top of the wiring conduit using "electrician's putty," available at a big box.   (It's kinda the consistency of plumbers putty.)
It seals permanently but is easily removed if necessary.
#6
Main Message Board / Re: Winch on Boom?
March 26, 2024, 02:54:47 PM
Quote from: shehant on March 26, 2024, 01:19:54 PMThere's a winch on the starboard side of the boom.  Is this standard?

reefing hook on the mast



Please post a picture when asking about oddball items. 

Help us to help you!

A reef hook on the MAST? This does not sound right.
The manual shows the running rigging layout.
#7
Main Message Board / Re: Replacing HX End Caps
March 17, 2024, 07:21:41 PM
Make sure both plates are flat and not cupped from previous over tightening.
While you are "in there anyway" if your Hx isn't bonded suggest you run a #14 green to a good engine ground point. A 3/8" lug fits the end bolt.
#8
Gotcha.  Thanks!
#9
Thank you for that info!
#10
Hey Alex!

I'm wondering on your install why you chose 400 and not LMR240?

-Ken
#11
I removed my Y valve, but could physically discharge directly to the thru hull.
#12
Main Message Board / Re: Snappy New Message Board
March 06, 2024, 11:58:03 AM
Noah the new interface looks GREAT and works much better on my iPhone X browser.

One annoying item I noticed and wonder if this can be "adjusted" -- the text/links to the C34 home page, etc, are nearly unreadable against the dark blue header.   Could their size be enlarged, icons/images be added, or the text colors changed to white, or the header be changed to light blue?
#13
Main Message Board / Re: Keel Bedding Survey
March 03, 2024, 03:01:57 PM
Ben

My experience is that the plan may change once the grinding starts.  I thought I had a simple smile fix -- but once I ground off the fairing and deeper, I found about a third of the length of the keel bedding (polyester mung) had turned into junk like saturated drywall.  It just hadn't made its way out into and cracked the fairing yet.  So I ended up dropping and rebedding the keel -- Gougeon Bros recommended 5200 to bed it, which is what I used.  Then I wrapped the joint with epoxy saturated, 4" biaxial fiberglass and faired over that. 
#14
THANK YOU!
#15
QuoteA note for future travelers down this rabbit hole: If your tach suddenly stops working, check your alternator!



I've said it several times before and will again.  First thing is to put an AC multimeter on both the Alternator tach ("AC") terminal and on the Tach input (S terminal.)  Most diesel alternators need like 7 volts AC to drive the tach.

They probably rebuilt your Alt for $30 in parts.

BTW, if you install a new Tach and want to, you can advance the hourmeter to match the engine hours.