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Hey Pete

I am a cheap, I mean frugal, sailor so IIWMB I would turn the D into a locking D. 
With a Dremel, grind a vee into the side so that the thumb screw blade drops into a slot when it tightens past a certain point.  That's how my small shackles of that size "lock."
Otherwise, put a drop of blue Loctite on it.

The backstay adjuster did not wear the bow shackle pin. 
The PO put it on the backstay because it was worn from the anchor.   
Besides being ugly it'll last your lifetime on the backstay.  Otherwise, replace it with a new Wichard (or IIWMB a Wichard snap shackle w/ clevis instead of an eye.)
https://defender.com/en_us/catalogsearch/result/?q=wichard%20shackle

-Ken

Pete

Photos of which you're replacing?

I use Wichard or Garhauer for most my hardware.

Guenter

I'll add that it's better off to:

Make a bracket to affix the tee/pressure sw/pressure sender to the exhaust manifold and use a flex hose.
Or
Mount the tee off the engine with a flex hose.
Or
Install the Westerbeke parts/bracket/hose that mounts a bracket and tee on the unused engine mount holes. I've done that on two M-25s/XPs.

(note that the original early M25s (like mine) had the pressure sw/tap for pressure sender mounted atop the bell housing with a flex hose between them.)

Jim

These links may help you develop a budget

https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,9361.msg69541.html#msg69541

https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,2199.0.html

but basically just start a spreadsheet of every usage you have, amperages, hours on-time during one day.

For each use
Amp x on-hours = amp-hours usage for one day.  Sum them all.

The other side of the budget is more involved; e.g., anticipated engine run time per day, alt output. # days between shore power charging (cruising or on a hook), solar, etc.

You're probably not going to change your alternator (or maybe you are considering that?) but the key to balancing your budget is meeting the amp-hrs demand by balancing that against the variables on the supply side of
- Shore charging
- Engine hours
- Alt output
- Solar charging
- Bank capacity

Demand A-Hs = AHs replaced by

Daily Engine supplied AH
+
Daily Solar AHs (if any)
+
Daily Shore AHs (if any)


The Bank capacity has be enough to either/both:

Provide the demand before the daily replenishment is complete

OR

Provide enough to make up any deficit in replenishment until back on shore power.

Finally, does anyone know what the keel bedding is on a 2000? It would at least be nice to know what was used that could essentially rot!

Ask Warren Pandy at the factory.


Some have installed a pvc pipe tower at each nut to keep the nut inside dry from water in the bilge. I used 5200 to seal around the bolts and under the washers before nutting down.

Seems that it would be worthwhile to track down the source of in the bilge and eliminate the coolant?

Guenter

Note that the Kubota engine port is NOT 1/8" NPT.  It is 1/8" JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) which is for all practical aspects interchangeable with British BSPT thread.

You can buy a BSPT-male x NPT-female adapter or a BSPT x NPT pipe nipple from McMaster and other sources.

I have for a long time disagreed with the thought (Catalina factory fantasy) that smiles are due to the blocking.

You have two planks that do NOT bend (the flat top surface of a hefty lead keel) AND a box beam constructed in the bilge stub.  You are NOT going to bend the keel stub by shifting more or less weight forward or aft on the keel.  For a crack to open, on one end the non-bending beams would need to open up, which creates a "V" to the ether end of the non-bending beam.  It doesn't happen.

Besides, what happens to the "tender joint" (that according to CTY cannot resist being loaded by so-called mis-blocking it) when the keel is NOT supported (i.e., with (literally) tons of stress on it, while being kicked to and fro and back and forth while tacking and crashing through swells while heeled?
That doesn't create more dynamic stress on the joint than statically loading it (by so-called mis-blocking it)?

@pbyrne

I think you are looking at the result of freeze-thaw. 
A little water gets behind the fairing (typically from wicking down the keel bolt threads and attacking the polyester "mung" keel bedding.) 
Then it only gets worse and worse, year after year.  That's what happened on my C30, except about 1/3 of the bedding was "gone."  Not gone as in missing, but "gone" as in turned into wet mush (like wet drywall) from water leaking down the bolts to the bedding and attacking it.

I doubt you tightened the keel by torquing the nuts.  More likely you were compressing the nuts into the fiberglass bilge. 

IIWMB here what I would do to first investigate/confirm what's going on.

1) Use your angle grinder ("cheap" at Harbor Freight if you don't have one) with a 1/4" thick wheel https://www.lowes.com/pd/DEWALT-Silicon-Carbide-4-5-in-Grinding-Wheel/1207179 (buy several!) 
Using a Dremel as some typically suggest (or any other child's tool) is just wasting your time.  It's an adult job, use an adult tool.

2) At the most forward and aft points, grind away ONLY enough fairing covering the joint to expose the joint/bedding material.  It should be whiteish-gray (or grayish-white?), about 1/4" to 3/8" thick, polyester mung between the keel and stub. 

3) Snap a chalk line to mark the precise location of the joint along the keel.

4) Use the wheel sideways -- such that you grind a slot into the fairing/bedding.  NOT flatways grinding away a 4" or 5" swath of fairing.)  Lightly grind a shallow groove then keep going back over it to deepen it until you get to the bedding. Grind just below the edge of the bedding, not deep into it.

5) Probe the condition of the bedding (ice pick, thin screwdriver, etc.) to see if it is competent or if spots have deteriorated.

6) Obviously while grinding you can determine what's going on, how extensive the "peeling" fairing is, if the bond is broken and is loose, and if it needs to be ground away as well.   

7) What you discover will determine the fix -- simply filling the ground-out slot with G-Flex, or grinding off more fairing (wider swath) to wrap the joint (I used 4" biaxial glass tape/epoxy resin, but I would use carbon fiber if I did it again today.)

I believe that all Catalina lead keels have a coating on them!!

When I dropped my keel there was no fairing/coating.  The only dressing was to fair the keel stub to the lead and formed a smooth "crescent" from the stub to the keel. 

You can see where the VC Tar had been applied right atop the lead and and the joint before I faired over it. 
Actually not shown yet in that pic, I did similar to the CTY fix and wrapped the jont with 4" biaxial tape.  Then faired over it.

Pic #2 is after applying the first smoothing-out coat (West + medium weight filler.)

Interesting -- my C30 keel stub was short for my keel -- about 3 inches short!!  Pic #3




 

@junaido

How much pressure were you using to test it?

Here's what "I think":

1) I could envision alternate ways -- one being epoxying blocks to the hull and using aluminum or stainless bars to clamp down the flange of the muffler to the plywood.

2) This is an example of what I have said several times.  With the poor quality of the OEM Aqualift muffler, it's a Fool's Errand to fix it unless opening up the seam, separating the two halves, and fixing it "permanently."  I did it twice (then deep-sixed it and have a pre-loved stainless steel can muffler (from a Westerbeke.)



3)

Pk I don't have that type with open cables do I don't know the recommended lube, if any.
Edson pry has it on its website.

Do you have pull-pull called in sheaths or cables on sheaves?

The cables are adjusted by the eye bolts, unless they are too stretched and need to be removed, taken up on the u-bolt clamps, then adjusted.

If you have the enclosed type cables there is a lube assembly with a zerk fitting to put on the end of the sheath. Obviously, that requires removing the cables from the radial wheel.

Jim

It's "listed" at 2096 Wh or at 12v that's 175 amp hours. 
1.2 amp is about 14 watts for the freezer. 
2096 watt hrs / 14 watts x 2 = about 150 hours, OR at 50% on-time = about 300 hrs/12 days running the freezer.

But there's no indication at what output amperage rate the watt-hours rating is calculated.  i.2a isn't high so I'd think that the Wh capacity would be reasonable (IF the w-hr number was actually tested and is correct and not exaggerated.)  EBL is a pretty good company in my very limited experience using it's batteries. 
IIWMB I'd probably reduce the capacity by 25% and ass/u/me that you'd get 9-10 days on a full charge.     

-Ken

It might be worth a try??

Really?  REALLY??

Worth a try — if perhaps one doesn't mind cobbing up this key thru hull on their boat.

Not to mention that the pic clearly shows the log was WORN away, not "broken", and the hole goes nearly clear to the entire exposed length of the log.  So not only would getting the correct Log Hose (not exhaust hose) onto it, the "joint" can't be adequately reinforced at the aft end and be able to properly fit a log hose to it.

"NO" Justin, don't even THINK about such a cob job.

Has anyone personally bought over and imported their boat that they bought in Canada?

I am specifically wondering about "doing it yourself" e.g., forms, amount of hassle, etc, (i.e., not using a customs broker, but anyone with broker info that might also be helpful.)


Thx!