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Messages - KWKloeber

Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 284
16
Main Message Board / Re: Disappearing coolant
« on: January 14, 2022, 07:06:05 PM »
Point of information for everyone (actually two POIs.)

A leaking Hx is basically a throwaway item. Yes it can *sometimes* be fixed but is typically not worth the cost.  OEMs were typically not copper-nickle (more expensive) and more prone to pin-holing (between the seawater and engine coolant sides) esp in saltwater.  Coolant doesnít end up in the bilge (it goes out the exhaust) so itís hard to diagnose w/o pressure testing the Hx.

A leaking WH (again, typically a pinhole between the potable water vessel and coolant tube) typically does NOT lose engine coolant - it GAINS engine coolant. Why?  The closed engine-coolant loop maxs out about 15 psi, and the hot water vessel is nominally at whatever pressure your potable water pump is set at (much higher than the engine pressure.)  So coolant canít push against that high pressure and get into the potable water side (good thing cuz itís toxic, so BEWARE if your potable water is unpressurized.)  The WH pressure can actually go much higher than the engine block*** (why the WH tank has a temp/pressure relief valve) so potable water can move in the opposite direction, sometimes with coolant ending up in the bilge or wherever the coolant reservoir bottle can overflow to (potable water pushes into the WH hoses, to the engine block, out the exhaust manifold pressure cap, to the coolant reservoir overflow.)

*** Why the check valve on the WH must be rated for WH use, and not the plastic ShurFlo CVs that are typically used on potable water lines.  They can blow up (and ruin your day.)

17
Main Message Board / Re: Cooling System Hose type question
« on: January 09, 2022, 06:09:08 PM »

replace with new wire reinforced hoses or just use the none wire reinforced water/exhaust hoses. 


You MUST use a WR hose on any suction line.  It would be helpful if you posted your engine in the profile.  The coolant suction hose is the one that runs forward from the Hx to the engine coolant pump.

On the seawater pump to Hx hose it doesn't need to be WR.   

See here for coolant and seawater flow directions:
https://groups.io/g/Catalina30/wiki/9626

That said, why NOT use all WR hoses?  They are less likely to kink.

The only time I wouldn't use a WR in every situation on a boat, is if I needed to make a very very sharp bend where there would be kink and then I'd use a corrugated hose. 
Oh yeah, and replacing a scupper hose if the orientation was that it is near impossible (on the C30 anyway) to get the short hose flexed to fit onto both hose barb fittings at the same time.  Then a non-WR would be a huge help in installation and maintaining less-bloody (not blood-free) knuckles and PG language.

18
Main Message Board / Re: Something leaking from top of engine
« on: January 08, 2022, 08:21:51 AM »
Itís not necessary but if it makes for an easier install Kubota suggests a non hardening gasket sealer, one side only, and apply the gasket. I donít recall the Permatex part number number for that type but itís been called out on here before if you do a search.

19
Main Message Board / Re: Battery charging setup
« on: December 27, 2021, 05:03:21 PM »
What boat/what engine?

20
Cliff

You asked about slow turning over not long ago and there were significant discussions and suggestions about tracking that down??

https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,11183.msg88980.html#msg88980

21
Cliff

Whatís your basis that the batts have plenty of cranking power?

The glow plugs have zero to do with cranking.

Iíd say first you need to understand what each part of the two starting circuits do, then you can check whether thereís appropriate voltage at each key point/connection.
Or, if you search thereís about a thousand message posts about what the critical things to check are, the vast majority donít need a meter (just inspection/cleaning/de-corroding/tightening.)  The one that really benefits from a V check is the key switch/S-wire circuit, and of course the V delivered to the solenoid B terminal while cranking.

22
Main Message Board / Re: Replacement marelon valve handle
« on: December 18, 2021, 12:53:11 AM »
WhooHoo!!!
Pretty cool of those folks. Very classy.

23
Main Message Board / Re: Replacement marelon valve handle
« on: December 16, 2021, 10:52:12 PM »
Explain -  ďmacerator holding tankĒ?
Is it the discharge for the macerator (likely) or a direct discharge from the holding tank?

Ďer, call me crazy but why not call Forespar directly?

Have you looked ďeverywhereĒ?
Iíll bet a bottle of Stuís best liquor that a P.O. removed the handle to (not exactly) comply with no-discharge zone and leave only the deck discharge, and itís hidden somewhere on the boat or in spare parts?

24
Great point

- the feeder (minimally useful) is permanently attached to my extrusion, but some have additionally used another "prefeeder" (temporary, typically shackled to the drum via a 1/8" wire rope.)

West and others sell those aftermarket prefeeders

25
Main Message Board / Re: Real Newbie Question
« on: December 16, 2021, 09:05:20 AM »
,

release the halyard and pull the sail down and out of the slot??

Also, how do I do this in anything other than a flat calm (unlikely in the UK within the time available).


Greenhorn,

We ALL been there at some point. <no shock>

Yes, basically. Dropping the halyard will drop the swivel.  Just un shackle the headsail and flake/fold er up.

A calm day trying to drop er?  Welcome to boating.

If you canít get one, then she needs to be oriented head to wind (or ever so slightly off) ó  bring the sail down onto the side deck without blowing off uncontrollably.  Running the lee sheet aft along where you want the sail to lay and tensioning the clew it will keep the foot where you want it (keep the tack shackled to the drum (or tied off to a bow rail) then remove it after itís under control.)

26
Main Message Board / Re: Twin Backstays on a Mark 1.25?
« on: December 13, 2021, 10:57:49 PM »
Though I'm neither a rigging nor Toss expert, if you look at his issues about the twin backstay there really are no valid (or at least significant) cons.  His whole point is, he shoots holes into the premis(es) that owners use to justify doing it. 

In other words, when looking at his reasoning critically, they don't support that it's a BAD idea, or an unsafe configuration, or similar -- just that whatever reason(s) justifying doing it, could be "worked around" instead of adding a stay.

His two actual honest-to-goodness "negatives" against it are:
(1) additional weight aloft (ok, technically valid but c'mon, really???) and
(2) the masthead connection could be improperly done. 
Well duh, of course the connection could be improperly done.   And so could it be done properly and safely, so that "negative" is not a valid argument. 
So, a single backstay can't be done improperly?? 
A corollary would be "Soldering on boat wiring is bad" -- the true statement is: "IMPROPER soldering on boat wiring is bad."

-k

27
Main Message Board / Re: How do I remove the oil pressure switch?
« on: December 13, 2021, 10:21:19 PM »
Ron

I understood that Wb purchased UM in 1990, but am unaware if Wb ran the division in Oshkosh for some period of time or if Wb closed it down ASAP and moved the division/line to Avon.   Even if the latter, both locations could have been operating for some period of time while any stock/Kb engines/marine parts were used up.  After buying UM it would take some time but not too long (i.e., months not years?) to start producing the A engines (since the difference was basically just a different harness and a handful of bolt-on components (circuit breaker and solenoid, fuel pump, oil hose and bracket for the remote oil switch.)   Maybe Wb just continued to produce the non-A engines until at some point it got the "better idea" (an epiphany in 1992? to convolute the wiring) which then came out in March 1993?   
Again when specifically relating to what got married into the c34 -- you are the expert there!

Ken

28
Main Message Board / Re: How do I remove the oil pressure switch?
« on: December 11, 2021, 03:08:48 PM »
Ron

Iím highly unqualified to know which 34 model years had which engines,  :shock:  but understand that the first A engines that Wb produced (25XPA/3-20A/35A, etc.) were in March 1993 (source TOAD universal model history which info Iíd imagine came from Wb?)  Before then (1990-1993) Iíd guess that Wb was still turning out ďnon AĒ Universals??

So Iíd guess that 93 model yr boats (that would typically have come off the line in 92) that have an A engine, would need to be a late model 93 (off the line after March 93 but before the 93-94 model year switch-over)??  Would that be how you read it?

My understanding is also that all those with the Wb wiring standard (A engines, since thatís what the A designates) had the 2-prong switch (since they have the ďnew, improved, convolutedĒ fuel pump wiring carried over from the Westerbeke Propulsion Engines) and also on all the As the switch was mounted remotely (although I suppose on some very early As there might have been some bastardization on that particular aspect?)

29
Main Message Board / Re: How do I remove the oil pressure switch?
« on: December 10, 2021, 04:48:32 PM »
The 35 is the same switch/wiring as the 25 and XP. 
The 35A is 2-prong (same convoluted wiring as the 25XPA, 25XPB.)

30
Main Message Board / Re: How do I remove the oil pressure switch?
« on: December 07, 2021, 08:05:36 PM »
TV

If there's a number on the old switch I may be able to find out its thread pitch.  There are many aftermarket switches that are JIS/BSPT, ISO, and other threads.

On the new one, it depends on what you want to call "official"  - it's an "official" Kubota engine so the official one switch a Kb 15841-39013, half the Wb cost
https://www.amazon.com/Kubota-Switch-OEM-Part-Oil/dp/B07B8C5T9J

(these have REALLY gone up - the last cost I have on them was Kb-$18 and WB-$24.   
There's aftermarket ones sold for about half the cost.

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