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Messages - KWKloeber

Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 302
16
Main Message Board / Re: ACR Wiring Revisited (again)
« on: July 28, 2022, 09:30:29 PM »
[Edit]
Your schematic doesn't show a Neg cable on the Alt.  It should have one.
***

Explain why you think that wire belongs on the house battery?

Although it **could** be put on the house, I'm thinking that you are not aware of what/when the harness feeds where.
Read my Harness 101 here:
https://groups.io/g/Catalina30/wiki/7375

You need to fuse that #5 harness wire (FIRE HAZARD).  When I make up those I use a weather tight ATC fuse holder (below) and a 5/16” LUG, not a crimp terminal. A terminal isn't heavy enough when there's flex and movement of the harness.

Additionally the yel/red “S” wire needs attention re: the fuse and how it's on there.   Strain by the harness could easily pull that S wire off the solenoid.
Read my S wire article here:
https://groups.io/g/Catalina30/wiki/7375


I'm not reviewing your ACR wiring because, well, I don't have one and I'm not fully aware of such wiring.  HOWEVER, why is the ACR shown connected to the starter solenoid, “S” terminal?


17
Main Message Board / Re: Electrical fire!
« on: July 28, 2022, 08:25:09 PM »
Be sure to eliminate the other gummy bear not just behind the panel; it might be nearly as bad in a different way.  Or did you do both??

Notice the Universal plug is nearly intact; it's the Catalina half that destroyed itself.

18
Main Message Board / Re: Impeller Install
« on: July 28, 2022, 09:19:33 AM »
Put a schmear of SuperLube ptfe gel to help prevent the imp from binding onto the momma shaft.**
A schmear on the case and cover/o-ring is a good prelube.
Of course, deep six the cir clip and washer!!
 
Tightening a zip tie around the imp is a way to make it easier to insert.

** If the imp won't let go of the shaft when you change it out,
     + pull out the shaft.
     + grab a box wrench that the shaft will slip thru and the imp hub sits against. Or a Crescent(tm) wrench works in a pinch.
     + overhang the end over a firm surface (like a timber or conc wall).
     + tap the shaft out of the imp hub using a bolt against the shaft.

SuperLube the end of the shaft and carefully/gently insert it with a twisting motion to avoid nicking the two rubber lip seals.  AFTER it's seated onto fork on the cam shaft THEN install the new imp.

19
Main Message Board / Re: Raising engine - Vetus mounts - metal type
« on: July 27, 2022, 11:00:48 PM »
@Kable

Here's some specs below that might help you.

If you measure where your engine brackets currently sit (or sat?) on the DF studs, w/ the new tranny they'll sit 8 mm above that spot on the K75 stud.
 
So depending where your brackets currently fall (fell?) on the stud (mid? above? below?) you can decide whether to shim and how much.


20
Main Message Board / Re: Draining hot water tank coolant hoses
« on: July 27, 2022, 07:30:37 PM »
JFWIW,

EG antifreeze is toxic.
PG antifreeze is nontoxic.

21
Main Message Board / Re: Raising engine - Vetus mounts - metal type
« on: July 27, 2022, 06:19:08 PM »

So this brings up a question. A few years ago I swapped our gearbox for the ZF12 and raised the engine accordingly.  The engine is now higher on the mount studs with more threads below than above.   I had wondered about the leverage on the mounts but opted to ignore that thought.   I suppose using the top end of the stud would and does allow excessive movement.  Maybe I should raise the mounts by shimming underneath.   So, should I?


Dietrich

It depends where the engine/bell housing brackets land on the K75 stud.  See my previous post/warning.  Pics of yours??
**its best that the brackets sit in the lower half of the studs.**
 I saw a pic of a snapped off stud (apparently) where the engine torque was applied too high.  I cant recall if it was an M25 or XP and whether it was on a 30 or 34.

22
Main Message Board / Re: Raising engine - Vetus mounts - metal type
« on: July 27, 2022, 09:50:41 AM »
Ron
To redeem myself for the prior faux pas about what Kable is doing - the 50 and 100 have the output shafts in the same location, vertically.
(Apparently) the new tranny he’s installing has the output shaft 1cm lower than the Hurth.  Hence the tranny/engine is raised so that the output remains at the same elevation as before.

1cm isn’t a lot so it depends where the new K75s studs sit in relation to the engine/bell housing brackets whether it’s advisable to shim the K75s.  I don’t know offhand the bottom of stud height (above the stringer) on the DF vs. K isolators but that info could be gotten.  Also don’t know where his brackets sat on the DF’s studs. 
To have the engine/tranny brackets hit the lower half of the studs, maybe the K75s should be shimmed 1cm, or maybe more, or maybe less - can’t determine that given the info so far.

23
Main Message Board / Re: Raising engine - Vetus mounts - metal type
« on: July 26, 2022, 05:11:30 PM »
Kable

Mea culpa. I misunderstood your application. DUH.
I was referring to just changing isolators that might have a different height, not if a different tranny output shaft is in a higher/lower plane than the original.  You’re absolutely correct the OUTPUT shaft must stay in alignment.   
The comment about where the engine/bell housing brackets should sit on the isolator stud remains valid, no matter.
Apologies for the confusion!

24
Main Message Board / Re: Raising engine - Vetus mounts - metal type
« on: July 26, 2022, 04:29:09 PM »
Mates

Just to clarify maybe a  misconception - the engine doesn’t get “raised” - it wants to sit in exactly the same position (it must, to stay in alignment w/ the prop shaft!) no matter what engine isolator is underneath, holding it and the bell housing UP.  i.e., the isolator gets shimmed, not the engine raised!

The conventional wisdom is that the engine/bell housing mounts (brackets) should sit in the lower half of the isolator stud.  As long as its in that range it’s ok.
There’s the rare possibility of snapping the stud if the torque is applied too high on it.

25
Main Message Board / Re: Raising engine - Vetus mounts - metal type
« on: July 25, 2022, 10:39:37 PM »
Oak would fine, I'd give em a coat of ‘poxy.
Or G-10. 
My personal for boat projects is a cheap hdpe cutting board from wally world.
It might be 1cm or you could belt sand it thinner.  No great need to overthink this.

@Kable

I measured the HDPE that I got from W-Mart (a cutting board) and it is 9.8mm  -- pretty darn close.

26
Main Message Board / Re: Raising engine - Vetus mounts - metal type
« on: July 23, 2022, 01:43:12 AM »
Oak would fine, I'd give em a coat of ‘poxy.
Or G-10. 
My personal for boat projects is a cheap hdpe cutting board from wally world.
It might be 1cm or you could belt sand it thinner.  No great need to overthink this.

27
Main Message Board / Re: Sooty Intake Manifold on M35B
« on: July 23, 2022, 01:33:47 AM »
When The B engines go out the factory door they have the crankcase breather hose run to the air intake.  Does yours?

28
Main Message Board / Re: Compression Test
« on: July 21, 2022, 07:09:40 PM »
One would think so but I believe your comments should be taken up w/ Depco/George Cornelius, not the guy quoting him.
Depco is <tongue in cheek> always “the expert” and authority, eh?

One consideration I could think of is that, being aftermarket, possibly Depco had issues w/ them not being quite as tightly to spec as genuine Sw and Ob impellers?  Maybe the material causes excessive wear?   I dunno,  :donno: :donno: I didn’t ask George why - I uncharacteristically simply took his recommendation at face value.

29
Main Message Board / Re: Wind indicator
« on: July 21, 2022, 12:18:54 PM »
Jim what kind/make WS is your old one?

30
@kable

It’s just common sense that a key’s purpose it to transmit a certain torque of an axial load while being able to shear if there is a situation where there is possible damage (hit an obstruction.)  Setscrews are intended to hold a coupling, etc., on a shaft not withstand the axial load where there’s a key or spline (e.g., alternator pulley, crankshaft pulley, crankshaft output shaft, transmission output shaft, etc.)  Ask FMT if that’s no so.

That’s not to say that setscrews don’t hold AT ALL, or that they wouldn’t work (temporary?) but it’s not their purpose.

There are ways to remove the shaft but it takes logistics and careful orchestration.  For instance the log can be olugged internally or with a cap.  You’ll get wet (temporarily? But not sink the boat unless the operation goes south (hence the careful orchestration needed.)  it’s a gamble that must be weighed.

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