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Most times you get different answers is because the question is either to general or because people have different levels of risk they are willing to take. I try to keep mine dry.

“is water in the bilge OK?” is pretty general. Standing water is not a good idea at home or on a boat. Bugs grow in it, it facilitates corrosion, and in the case of salt water it will stink. If you know where the water is coming from, and it’s normal (like the packing gland), then it isn’t a problem except for being standing water. I’m sure there’s other opinions out there.

is water in the bilge bad, seeing what is in there?  or no?  i seem to get different answers like everything else with boat ownership.

A little bilge water isn't bad, but it should be clean water.   I do think it's important to know where the water is coming from and to monitor it.  Any unexpected water needs to be tracked down.  My bilge is generally dry, I get a coffee can of clean bilge water every other week.
That's good for me.  Others may be happy with more or less.
Jim

is water in the bilge bad, seeing what is in there?  or no?  i seem to get different answers like everything else with boat ownership. and thanks

hmm, they were too big to upload and then when i used apple->previewer, they were renamed as .heic so i thought i could just rename them.  i'll try gimp. thanks for telling me.

btw, i drained the bilge last tuesday with a turkey baster and checked back on saturday.  there was no new water, or not significant enough to notice so i don't think it's the keel bolts, but i'll tighten them anyway when she's out, and it can't be the water tank since it's empty.

I did change from 160 to 180.  It actually read 185(with engine running)  I am also in fresh water and did not notice any difference in performance.

Thanks Paul,
That answered my question.  So....Running hotter "in theory" should give more efficiency and power, but is not enough to notice in the real world of C34.  Somewhat warmer in the cabin, not good for most of my sailing season.  Perhaps would be something to do if Lake Superior was my sailing grounds.
Jim

Becki
The black hose (w/a check valve on it) is for your bilge pump discharge and the used-to-be white hose is for the emergency bilge pump (as Ron had described.)

Tim

Your burb setup is 5/8" x 5/8" x ?
The head supply tee you need is what size hoses and threads onto what size?

Glenn

Yes (you are missing the link.)

The elbow joint is connected to the arm bone.  Or in this case, the seawater injection wye @ the muffler and Hx seawater side are connected (thermally) to the engine coolant loop.  The cooler the engine coolant, the cooler the seawater after the Hx.  Or conversely, hotter coolant causes hotter seawater to precipitate out and deposit the gunk at places we don't want it to end up.

It's another of those compromises we all read about re: "boating."  Controlling one negative can lead to another negative and it becomes a teeter-totter.

It's kinda strange that some owners have no problem at all with deposits and some have had near-totally blocked injection wyes, presumably the same seawater salt content and same Tstat.  Maybe seawater temp is the controlling factor?

becki they aren't displaying on the website and when I download/view them I get a "damaged file" error.

Am I missing something here? If you are using a HX what difference would it make salt or fresh water as neither get to the thermostat because it is a closed system.