Recent posts

#1
Main Message Board / Re: wiring harness
Last post by Stu Jackson - Today at 08:09:57 AM
These discuss the wire from the 1-2-B switch:

OEM 1-2-B Switch Wiring History  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4949.msg30101.html#msg30101

1-2-B Considerations (New 2020 - Rod finally got around to diagramming what I had done in the above link in 2009 :) )
https://marinehowto.com/1-2-both-battery-switch-considerations/

The proper place for the fuse is at the battery, because the battery is The Bomb you are protecting against.  So, no, this doesn't need a fuse.

The yellow wire is from the cockpit panel switch or key to the starter solenoid.

Your approach, as Ron says, is to understand what the purpose of the wires are, not just their colors.
#2
Main Message Board / Re: wiring harness
Last post by Ron Hill - Yesterday at 03:17:18 PM
Peter : I wouldn't count on doing wiring by the color of the wires. You need to trace the wire from it's origin to where it is connected!!

Look in your owners manual (page 4.2.2) or look that the manual on this site to trace where/what the wiring should be!!

A few thoughts
#3
Main Message Board / Re: Tank vents
Last post by Ron Hill - Yesterday at 03:09:40 PM
Guys : If you want to change the vent to other than the stanchion here's wat I'd do :

Take the vented stanchion and replace it or
saw of the portion is the stanchion that goes thru the deck!!

Then fill in the hole in the deck with epoxy
You then can bed in (with butyl rubber)the old modified stanchion, but you'll still have the helpers on the deck fending off so you best add a backing plate!!!

A few thoughts
#4
Main Message Board / wiring harness
Last post by Dawntrader - Yesterday at 12:13:19 PM
Current status

I have installed the new engine  wiring harness and voltmeter and have wired the original 55 amp alternator to the house bank. The starter is feed from the battery switch common. I've connected the yellow wire with red stripe to the spade connector on the solenoid (with an inline fuse holder)

my question is the red wire coming down from the panel does that connect to the large post on the solenoid and should it be fused?

I have read many articles on the cat 34 website and am still confused.

Appreciate your input..
peter
86 mk1 m-25
#5
Main Message Board / Re: Tank vents
Last post by KWKloeber - Yesterday at 10:10:41 AM
Vent hoses and stanchion hose barbs don't cause lesks, PEOPLE cause them!!

The deck thru-hole simply reveals you have a problem that could have been avoided!
#6
Main Message Board / Re: Tank vents
Last post by Ron Hill - Yesterday at 09:48:05 AM
Guys : Regardless of where the tank vent is you still need backing plates on those stanchions - because people on the dock still fend off by pushing on the top of those stanchions. 

With out backing plates the seal (to deck) WILL break and water will seep down into the area below and rot out the wood!!   :cry4`

A few thoughts
#7
Main Message Board / Re: Tank vents
Last post by LogoFreak - July 16, 2024, 07:39:09 PM
Get rid of the stanchion vents, they're a pita and don't work well. Vent your holding tank thru the side of the hull with a couple of 1" thru hulls and put some scoops over them.
#8
Main Message Board / Re: Scupper Hoses
Last post by scgunner - July 15, 2024, 05:56:44 AM
One picture worth a 1,000 words.
#9
Main Message Board / Re: Aft Water tank - aft wall ...
Last post by Baysider - July 15, 2024, 05:39:10 AM
Thanks guys for the advice.  Everyone is always so helpful.  I appreciate that.
#10
Main Message Board / Re: Do you know what's Fun
Last post by waughoo - July 14, 2024, 08:39:24 PM
Love seeing it going back together!!  Keep sharing photos.