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Ron, interesting about removing the zinc.  Is that more effective than removing the hose from the water pump to the HX?  I only ask since the hose is right on the front of the engine, and easier to get at. (I know, I know... the zinc is a regular maintenance item - I was going to address that next spring.) 
I'm surprised that just one gallon is sufficient to get all the way through to the muffler...

If you take Jim’s advice, while your at your local NAPA store ask about their belt tension gauge. It’s called the Krikit. Part numbers used to be NBH KR1 and NBH KR2. I have the KR1. Pricey for what it is, but makes the belt tightening simple and correct.

This thread covers just what I am searching for. Thank you for sharing the knowledge.
I tried to message KWKloeber Ken regarding purchasing a fitting from him but the DM was blocked, I wonder if it is because I'm new or something else?
Any suggestions? Ken?

Thanks again.

C34 #444

Guys : I overtightened the drive belt on my OEM M25XP engine.  The first bearings to go were in the engine water pump - not the alternator!! 

A thought

Mat : Careful - The 7' 8" and 7' 2" measurements that you quote are the PAD widths. 

Believe that I would stick with the measurements that Catalina gave you on page 5.2 of your Owners Manual.  The pads are positioned so they are against a bulkhead inside the hull and not just against the hull!!!

A thought

Tom : I'm in Virginia (the not so frozen north!!) and I do BOTH methods of engine winterization!! 

I get one gallon of the lowest temperature grade engine winterization fluid.  Remove the raw water intake hose and stick it in the gallon jug.  Start the engine and let it suck all of fluid then shut off the engine.  Then I remove the Zn from the heat exchange so it drains all of the fluid out.  The fluid is in the muffler so you don't have to fool around with it.  Then I remove the impeller (spray it with silicone).  The engine is now set for winter!!  It's worked for over 30 years!!

A few thoughts
 

I recently had a similar creaking noise on an evening when I had an anchorage with a significant ground swell, rocking the boat significantly (it was like sleeping in a washing machine.)  I found that the teak panel covering the diesel tank was the culprit.  The leatherette edging on the panel was rubbing against the fiberglass edge.   It was quite loud and annoying but easy to fix.

Thanks, Jim and Ken for your replies.  You both being from the "frozen North", your replies are meaningful to me.
I've winterized my previous boats but those were the Atomic engine and I always did the antifreeze route.  This is my first time with a Universal, and saw the recommendation in the maintenance manual, and it is appealing because I'm not buying and disposing of antifreeze (despite its non-toxic nature).  I would of course remove the impeller and store it as per Ron's suggestions.

Ken - I'd be interested in seeing if your dry method is different than the manual.  I have a small compressor that I'm planning to use on the potable water systems (set at not more than 50 psi), and I assume that would be useful in doing a dry storage procedure for the engine.

Tom

The M25 and XP are SO SIMPLE to winterize dry.  For the 15 years she was in Buffalo I never put one drop of pink stuff thru the seawater side of my m25 and never had any issue.  The only freeze up I had was on the potable water side (water heater) and that was my stupidity not getting to purging it before buffalo got a cold deep freeze.

The part I like about winterizing dry is that it forces one to open up and look at the things that should be looked at annually.
If you decide you want to do it that method I can guide you the easiest way to do it.

Ken

Congrats on your purchase!!  I too bought a teaching boat and know the general appearance issues you speak of.  I bought a steam cleaner and it has been VERY helpful to clean everything enough that I was happy to use it.