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Now that Earl Mathieson has closed shop, I am looking for an electrician in the SF Bay Area. Any recommendations more recent than 2005?

Bill & Guys : To get at an aft keel bolt I use a 1/2" swivel on the extension.

A thought

Yes Bill did not pull the wood out. Did not k ow it went under the step or I might have.

On a separate but related subject, I re-torque my keel bolts while on the hard every year. 107 ft-lb, free loaner torque wrench from AutoZone, and a 1-1/8" extra deep socket bit with extension and pivot attachment for the hard-to-reach nuts. It's so easy to do that there's no reason not to have it on annual PM:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ALXYOE/

I've found all the keel bolts generally easy to get to except for the aft-most bolt.  To make access to that much easier and fairly accurately torque, I removed the sole section and drilled a hole above the bolt just big enough to put an extension through it.  I attach the socket from underneath to torque the replace the sole.

Bill not sure what the stringers are made of. I have one picture of one.
I made a form in the shape of a 2x6 and laid-up fiberglass in it, then vacuum bagged it with
West System. The finished fiberglass 2x6's were then cut to replace only the lower part of the stringer.
These were fit inplace and the whole thing was covered with roving and mat.

Thanks!  your pic is very helpful.  I now have a better idea what I'll encounter if I dig deeper. on the other stringers  The pic of your completion looks great!  The height of the exposed keel bolts looks looks like you retained and glassed over the wood in the bilge, yes?

Stu

This is RC's most complete procedure
https://www.sailnet.com/forums/1252482-post5.html

I just put it his steps and his pix on the
Wiki > Engine > Cooling (top entry.)



Actually, I did mean "globe."  The typical petcock drain (like atop our TStat) isn't a gate valve, nor a plug valve, nor a ball, diaphragm, butterfly, sliding knife gate, pinch, or wedge valve.  I don't know what's left. 

I thought it most resembles how a globe operates because it has a valve disk (chamfered plug type instead of flat or ball or cone) that closes against a valve seat (and can pinch debris and dribble.)
Shown closed against valve seat below.



BUT, it has 3 differences (I know you know the details, this is for non techies.)
The action is reversed - the stem pulls up, instead of pushes down against the valve seat (coolant system pressure makes it seal better,)
The flow when open is thru the hollow stem (instead of an outlet above the valve seat,) and
It's missing the valve body (the radiator/engine block/tstat housing becomes the globe.) 

It was really quite an ingenious invention - eliminated many parts by combining functions and eliminated the need for a globe body.

I ran out of valve types, maybe there's a ME out there who can more properly identify the type!!??

A bit of Trivia - Henry used the same type ball valve petcock as we have on our engines on his Model T !!!

https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,10060.0.html
You can follow along as I install a Twin Disk in my C34.
Got from Beta marine. Stanley was who I worked with, great guy.
https://www.betamarinenc.com/

Never did post a finished picture.
Epoxied stud/screws in the base to hold the mast base.
Hopefully this will keep the water from finding its way into it

Bill not sure what the stringers are made of. I have one picture of one.
I made a form in the shape of a 2x6 and laid-up fiberglass in it, then vacuum bagged it with
West System. The finished fiberglass 2x6's were then cut to replace only the lower part of the stringer.
These were fit inplace and the whole thing was covered with roving and mat.

The length of the stud in the bilge varies (at least on my boat). You need to measure them before buying a socket.