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Logo, have you considered consulting with Peggie Hall about your new tank?

Interesting packaging/marketing slogan on box: “Japanese Design & Technology” 

Don’t look now but the Japanese ate our lunch decades ago.  Every industry or technology they care to be involved in they excel.   Their stuff is good and expensive.   
They got out of the tin trinkets business along time ago.

We have a Dometic CX35.  It works awesome.  Stored in aft cabin and we added the extra insulation jacket.  It draws very little power and we run it at 7° to keep ice cream for the admiral. We would have gone bigger but the 16.5” width on the door to aft cabin was limiting factor.

I was told the Dometic was a good comparable. Your boat layout is the same as mine. Where in the aft cabin do you store it? Did you secure it with something?

We have a Dometic CX35.  It works awesome.  Stored in aft cabin and we added the extra insulation jacket.  It draws very little power and we run it at 7° to keep ice cream for the admiral. We would have gone bigger but the 16.5” width on the door to aft cabin was limiting factor.   

I was hesitant to add an inspection port, didn’t realize the pickup tubes aren’t mountable thru the ports. I’ve emailed a few companies to get quotes for the tank and will ask them about it when I hear back. The two pickups are the ones with a straight shot down, the most outboard is the inlet (built in ramp for mr. hanky ) and the smaller one is the vent. Once I build the mockup tank I’ll figure the exact placement of the ports for ease of maintenance and future work. The drawing was done mostly to visualize the tank itself and get an accurate capacity. The taller I go the volume increases exponentially.

I’ve been getting everything for my refit from Poco Marine here in Port Coquitlam BC, great place to shop at with very friendly staff, highly recommend them for anyone close enough to order from.

Hi Logo,
May I recommend adding an inspection port to the top of your tank.  It will be essential to allow you to get your arm in the tank to install the suction pipes to the bottom of the tank for your deck pump-out fitting and to your macerator pump.  If you're using the outboard-most fitting for a suction / outlet port, remember that you'll have a bit of an awkward angle for the suction pipe to run from the fitting to the bottom of the tank.   It looks like all of your ports are quite close to the edges and if you want to install 90 deg fittings, you'll need more clearance to install them once the tank is in place.  I think it will be difficult reaching into that narrow space to connect the large 1 1/2" hose to the outboard fitting.

The through hull valves look fantastic.  Where did you get them?

Rule of thumb I’ve always followed is: distance from prop strut to propeller hub = shaft diameter. So for a Catalina 34 that’s 1”

Whoever worked on my boat previously was a knuckle head and installed the cutlass bearing all wrong, either that or he gave up trying to install it all the way 

I used to use autocad for all my scale drawings but havent yet found a good choice for 3d designs.  I miss desktop applications.

Many ways to skin a cat, although I can’t see why anyone would want to do that.

I've always found this turn of phrase to be curious as well.

I use Sketchup for anything 3D and TurboCAD for all my 2D drawings. Didn't mind spending $90 for turbo cad designer but I'm not paying close to $1000 for the occasional time I need to tinker with a 3D design so Sketchup does me fine and it's free.