Recent posts
#91
Main Message Board / Re: White smoke from seawater ...
Last post by Ron Hill - June 16, 2025, 02:57:02 PMCliff : Is it smoke or steam??? Watch how it dissipates!! Did you get a blast of hi humidity and cooler air???
Steam or water vapor will rise and clear fairly rapidly!! Smoke tends to stay closer to the water and takes longer to dilute.
A few thoughts
Steam or water vapor will rise and clear fairly rapidly!! Smoke tends to stay closer to the water and takes longer to dilute.
A few thoughts
#92
Main Message Board / Re: Depth reading from my Raym...
Last post by krafty81 - June 16, 2025, 02:52:37 PMSo this is what is under the forward V berth. I do not think the speed / temp sensor is reading at my console, just gps speed. Assuming the thing on the right is the depthfinder? The rig looks pretty good and dry, so not sure what to do next.
#93
Main Message Board / Re: Portable solar panel
Last post by krafty81 - June 16, 2025, 02:14:20 PMQuote from: Noah on June 07, 2025, 05:06:13 PMThanks, Brian. I chased down the article:
https://goodoldboat.com/harnessing-the-sun/
It is interesting. I like the photo in the article showing them using the solar panel as a dog bed! Meanwhile, the NY distributor doesn't seem to carry those folding models any more, but I went to German manufacturer's website and you are correct, they are expensive! I think I will try a less expensive flexible panel solution first, as I will be only using them a few weeks per year at anchor. I will use a Victron MPPT however.
Maybe I missed it...what company flex panel did you go with?
#94
Main Message Board / Re: Portable solar panel
Last post by Noah - June 16, 2025, 01:45:58 PMFollow-up. I left the boat for 48hrs. (In the slip) with shore power OFF, solar panel ON laying on deck forward of the mast and my refrigerator ON. Upon returning to boat batteries were 96% SOC 13.5V. Also, is a photo of how I run the solar panel "extension cord" to inside plug. It sandwiches nicely in the slit between my two hatch washboards, so I can lock the boat. Looks like this system is going to work well for me while at anchor!
#95
Main Message Board / White smoke from seawater outl...
Last post by crieders - June 16, 2025, 11:00:12 AMengine running fine at 160 or so says the temp gauge. water coming into raw water filter and out to engine again, impeller pump working, water coming out of outlet in back of boat...so why white smoke? Thanks for any suggestions or thoughts.
#96
Main Message Board / Re: Fuel Pump Fail?
Last post by KWKloeber - June 15, 2025, 06:48:56 PMQuoteI think M35 is self bleeding but I bled anyway.
I have opined many times that anyone with a Universal that doesn't have the knurled bleed knob (such as an M-25) should install it. And anyone who has the knob as OEM (such as an XP) should replumb the fuel flow (as I did) so that the knob does not return the bled fuel to the tank.
This makes troubleshooting more straightforward and allows viewing the fuel flow/condition while bleeding. The OEM setup prevents that, which, for Kubota to have done that, was, using a technical term, plain stupid.
If one wants to retain the option of returning fuel to the tank, that can also be accomplished.
#97
Main Message Board / Re: Cutlass bearing tool
Last post by KWKloeber - June 15, 2025, 04:43:59 PMGene
I have some experience in this (not trying to sell anything but we sell hearings and rent two tools to change them, and have helped probably 50 owners from 27-ft Catalinas to 40-ft powerboats, and a dozen different manufacturers.) Our Rental Agreement "requires" that before renting the owner properly prep the strut/bearing. That entails repeatedly alternating heat (torch) and a penetrant (Blaster, acetone mix, whatever) several times.
We even had a C30 owner who soaked the strut/bearing for a week while waiting for the tool to free up. He formed a hammock of Blaster-filled baggie around the shaft/strut.
Other than obvious user error (like a C&C owner who knowingly pushed one with a seized setscrew in place,) there has been only one time the bearing did not come out (a salt water boat that the owner had no clue about when it was ladt changed.)
Alternating heat is a must because the expansion/contraction helps break free corrosion and/or possible galvanic corrosion.
Using heat just before pushing out the old is also important. At least two users' brothers were welders and used acetylene torch.
Your pushing out the rubber has no "bearing" on the success, or lack of. Our bearings are among the worst. The super thin brass shell can be a nightmare to keep the collets from diving into the rubber.
We use a clamp around them to keep the center from buckling under high pressure.
I attached the instructions for one tool that perhaps might help you.
Heat - heat - heat.
I have some experience in this (not trying to sell anything but we sell hearings and rent two tools to change them, and have helped probably 50 owners from 27-ft Catalinas to 40-ft powerboats, and a dozen different manufacturers.) Our Rental Agreement "requires" that before renting the owner properly prep the strut/bearing. That entails repeatedly alternating heat (torch) and a penetrant (Blaster, acetone mix, whatever) several times.
We even had a C30 owner who soaked the strut/bearing for a week while waiting for the tool to free up. He formed a hammock of Blaster-filled baggie around the shaft/strut.
Other than obvious user error (like a C&C owner who knowingly pushed one with a seized setscrew in place,) there has been only one time the bearing did not come out (a salt water boat that the owner had no clue about when it was ladt changed.)
Alternating heat is a must because the expansion/contraction helps break free corrosion and/or possible galvanic corrosion.
Using heat just before pushing out the old is also important. At least two users' brothers were welders and used acetylene torch.
Your pushing out the rubber has no "bearing" on the success, or lack of. Our bearings are among the worst. The super thin brass shell can be a nightmare to keep the collets from diving into the rubber.
We use a clamp around them to keep the center from buckling under high pressure.
I attached the instructions for one tool that perhaps might help you.
Heat - heat - heat.
#98
Main Message Board / Re: Fuel Pump Fail?
Last post by KWKloeber - June 15, 2025, 04:04:36 PMQuote from: rjabara on June 12, 2025, 06:54:54 PMWell, fuel pump replaced but did not resolve the problem.
If any other thoughts, I'll take them
Hence, what I have said on here way, way too many times.
Do NOT play Whack-a-Mole and start replacing parts Willy-nilly.
It can get frustrating, waste valuable maintenance/repair/sailing time, unnecessarily consume boat bucks, diverts good beer (or other alcohol) money, and can lead to sleepless nights asking the question, "Was that the root cause, or a coincidence" (it is a boat after all.)
troubleshoot - Troubleshoot - TROUBLESHOOT.
Then, start replacing parts willy-nilly.
Isolate and test (or bypass) a suspected bad part if possible.
#99
Main Message Board / Re: Question about refueling
Last post by Jim Hardesty - June 15, 2025, 12:35:12 PM #100
Main Message Board / Re: Fuel Pump Fail?
Last post by Jim Hardesty - June 15, 2025, 12:27:29 PMQuoteAlso, no extension hose on my pickup. Do I need this?
Measure it. Should come to about 3/8 to 1/2 inch from bottom of the tank to the high point of the notch at the bottom of the pick up.
Jim