Recent posts
#11
Main Message Board / Re: Brown water dripping from ...
Last post by rjabara - July 24, 2024, 12:44:05 PMI spent a few hours yesterday trying to track the brown water leaking into my head. I couldn't figure it out, but took a picture to see if anyone had any ideas. It is not at the hatch, and not from the handrail above the head and seems to be lower than that (you will see that the upper shelf is dry) It appears to be getting into the underside of the lower shelf (pictured), pooling there and then releasing, mostly through the stain line that you see, but sometimes releasing in locations further aft, near the shower seat. The area where the staining is is soft and wet. Thoughts?
#12
Main Message Board / Re: Wiring directly to starter
Last post by KWKloeber - July 24, 2024, 12:34:57 PMQuote from: Ron Hill on July 24, 2024, 09:33:53 AMtake a long screwdriver (with wood or plastic handle) - lay the shank on the starter solenoid stud then touch the engine block with the tip of the screwdriver
Ron:
No no, Garfunkle. You'll hear the Sounds of Silence.
One needs to short the solenoid "S" (start) terminal to the solenoid "B" (battery) terminal (i.e., apply 12v to the solenoid or alternately as Alex did, to the fuse pigtail.) Grounding the "S" terminal does nothing, it needs 12v to energize the coil and pull in the switch.
Some old "Ford type" solenoids needed a negative to energize the the coil (like on a positive chassis,) but that was not the norm. (Without dating myself) I used to short the solenoid battery cable lug to the "S" terminal on my Mercury Comet.
Greg, also remember that the weakest links are improper wire gauge from the start switch, a bad (key or push-button) start switch or corroded/loose terminals, bad (corroded) battery cable NEGATIVE lugs, NOT moving the negative battery cable lug to the starter bolt (i.e., keeping it on the bell housing) and ESPECIALLY the poorly designed "S" terminal itself (even after the fuse holder is replaced.)
https://groups.io/g/Catalina30/wiki/7401
https://groups.io/g/Catalina30/wiki/11336
#13
Main Message Board / Re: Wiring directly to starter
Last post by ghebbns - July 24, 2024, 10:25:38 AMThanks all.
I was able to get down to the boat for a short visit today and tried the engine. It started off no problem. After letting it run for awhile, I turned it off and waited a few minutes. The first time I engaged the start button - nothing. But I noticed that none of the gauges moved when I pressed the start button. I immediately tried again and it turned over.
The fact that the gauges did not change when I first engaged it seems to indicate to me that the button was not engaging. Does this make sense or is it just me hoping for an easy fix?
I was able to get down to the boat for a short visit today and tried the engine. It started off no problem. After letting it run for awhile, I turned it off and waited a few minutes. The first time I engaged the start button - nothing. But I noticed that none of the gauges moved when I pressed the start button. I immediately tried again and it turned over.
The fact that the gauges did not change when I first engaged it seems to indicate to me that the button was not engaging. Does this make sense or is it just me hoping for an easy fix?
#14
Main Message Board / Re: Wiring directly to starter
Last post by Ron Hill - July 24, 2024, 09:33:53 AMGreg : You can also take a long screwdriver (with wood or plastic handle) - lay the shank on the starter solenoid stud then touch the engine block with the tip of the screwdriver and you should hear the starter kick in!!
A thought
A thought
#15
Main Message Board / Re: Wiring directly to starter
Last post by waughoo - July 24, 2024, 07:21:33 AMI don't have a link to share, but the process is to apply 12v+ to the solenoid terminal on the the starter. I rigged up a temporary one when I adjusted the valves to bump the engine over. Mine was purchased at the auto parts store and has two alligator clips on the end of a push button. I connected one lead to the 12v+ lug on the starter and the other to the dissassembled glass fuse holder.
#16
Main Message Board / Re: Scupper Hoses
Last post by scgunner - July 24, 2024, 05:49:18 AMEric,
I appreciate the recommendation, it's probably not a bad idea but at this point in my life I'm trying to stop fixing things that aren't broken. A piece of hose jammed in the one way valve is rather a freak occurrence and those things are hard to plan for since they happen so rarely. If the pump had been on auto you'd probably had never known you had a problem. In place of a vented loop you could install an addition one way valve but what are the odds of it ever happening again.
I appreciate the recommendation, it's probably not a bad idea but at this point in my life I'm trying to stop fixing things that aren't broken. A piece of hose jammed in the one way valve is rather a freak occurrence and those things are hard to plan for since they happen so rarely. If the pump had been on auto you'd probably had never known you had a problem. In place of a vented loop you could install an addition one way valve but what are the odds of it ever happening again.
#17
Main Message Board / Re: Inline ball valve between ...
Last post by Mick Laver - July 23, 2024, 09:31:46 AMYes, plenty of pumpouts in SD Bay, even one at the end of my dock at SGYC. I was at anchor at Glorietta Bay. Of course I pumped out when I got back to Shelter Island. Last time this happened was at Isthmus Cove, where the pumpout is located about 3 miles due north.
In both cases being able to isolate the holding tank from the macerator so I could swap in my spare macerator would have been beneficial.
In both cases being able to isolate the holding tank from the macerator so I could swap in my spare macerator would have been beneficial.
#18
Main Message Board / Re: Wiring directly to starter
Last post by ghebbns - July 23, 2024, 09:02:20 AMThanks Ron. I replaced this last year :)
#19
Main Message Board / Re: Wiring directly to starter
Last post by Ron Hill - July 23, 2024, 08:40:50 AMGreg : Look at the 30A fuse HOLDER and make sure the contact ends are CLEAN.
We've recommended that everyone stop using the glass BUSS fuses & holder and change to the stab-in fuses!!
a thought
We've recommended that everyone stop using the glass BUSS fuses & holder and change to the stab-in fuses!!
a thought
#20
Main Message Board / Re: Scupper Hoses
Last post by ewengstrom - July 23, 2024, 08:32:29 AMKevin,
I'd recommend a vented loop be added to that bilge hose.
Ours didn't have one but it had a one way valve about 1' back from the pump. As far as I know it's been like that since the boat was new. A few years ago we were on a cruise and had motored for several hours. When we anchored I checked the bilge and found it full to within an inch of the floor boards. (Yeah, I know...I should have had the pump set to automatic, but I didn't...my bad)
After much pumping and looking for a broken fitting I finally determined that a small piece of 16ga wire jacket had found its way thru the bilge pump and had lodged itself in the one way valve. This wasn't a problem until we were motoring and I must have run the bilge for a minute. The bilge emptied and then because the transom was squatted down and the bilge fitting was below water it created a siphon and over the course of a few hours it filled that bilge right up.
No harm done, except for a minor panic attack, but I've since installed a vented loop that attaches to the propane shelf in the aft locker. That loop should have been done in the first place.
I'd recommend a vented loop be added to that bilge hose.
Ours didn't have one but it had a one way valve about 1' back from the pump. As far as I know it's been like that since the boat was new. A few years ago we were on a cruise and had motored for several hours. When we anchored I checked the bilge and found it full to within an inch of the floor boards. (Yeah, I know...I should have had the pump set to automatic, but I didn't...my bad)
After much pumping and looking for a broken fitting I finally determined that a small piece of 16ga wire jacket had found its way thru the bilge pump and had lodged itself in the one way valve. This wasn't a problem until we were motoring and I must have run the bilge for a minute. The bilge emptied and then because the transom was squatted down and the bilge fitting was below water it created a siphon and over the course of a few hours it filled that bilge right up.
No harm done, except for a minor panic attack, but I've since installed a vented loop that attaches to the propane shelf in the aft locker. That loop should have been done in the first place.