Recent posts
#1
Main Message Board / Re: backstay shackles
Last post by KWKloeber - Yesterday at 11:51:42 PMPete
Photos of which you're replacing?
I use Wichard or Garhauer for most my hardware.
Photos of which you're replacing?
I use Wichard or Garhauer for most my hardware.
#2
Main Message Board / backstay shackles
Last post by Pete G - Yesterday at 04:13:12 PMMy boat has a backstay adjuster and need to replace the shackles. One of them is a stainless D shackle with a non-locking pin and the other is a galvanized bow shackle (from the PO) - the pin was showing significant wear. Any recommendations on the right shackles to use for the application?
#3
Main Message Board / Re: Catalina 34 tall rig mast ...
Last post by Ron Hill - Yesterday at 02:46:32 PMGuys : On the inside of the mainsail track on the mast below deck you'll find a tape writer strip with the hull # and the indication if it is a tall rig or regular mast!!
A thought
A thought
#4
Main Message Board / Re: Keel to Hull join flaking....
Last post by Ron Hill - Yesterday at 02:32:14 PMGuys : Look at Eric's post above and you can see the white coating that is on his keel under the gray barrier/bottom paint.
I've read the after you shine up lead it almost immediately forms a coating of lead oxide. I believe that Catalina probably changed their specs to have that coating - at least with the 1986 C34 & subsequent production.
That way barrier coat and or bottom paint would better stick !!
A thought
I've read the after you shine up lead it almost immediately forms a coating of lead oxide. I believe that Catalina probably changed their specs to have that coating - at least with the 1986 C34 & subsequent production.
That way barrier coat and or bottom paint would better stick !!
A thought
#5
Main Message Board / Re: OIl leak
Last post by KWKloeber - Yesterday at 02:17:25 PMGuenter
I'll add that it's better off to:
Make a bracket to affix the tee/pressure sw/pressure sender to the exhaust manifold and use a flex hose.
Or
Mount the tee off the engine with a flex hose.
Or
Install the Westerbeke parts/bracket/hose that mounts a bracket and tee on the unused engine mount holes. I've done that on two M-25s/XPs.
(note that the original early M25s (like mine) had the pressure sw/tap for pressure sender mounted atop the bell housing with a flex hose between them.)
I'll add that it's better off to:
Make a bracket to affix the tee/pressure sw/pressure sender to the exhaust manifold and use a flex hose.
Or
Mount the tee off the engine with a flex hose.
Or
Install the Westerbeke parts/bracket/hose that mounts a bracket and tee on the unused engine mount holes. I've done that on two M-25s/XPs.
(note that the original early M25s (like mine) had the pressure sw/tap for pressure sender mounted atop the bell housing with a flex hose between them.)
#6
Main Message Board / Re: Energy audit
Last post by KWKloeber - Yesterday at 02:06:10 PMJim
These links may help you develop a budget
https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,9361.msg69541.html#msg69541
https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,2199.0.html
but basically just start a spreadsheet of every usage you have, amperages, hours on-time during one day.
For each use
Amp x on-hours = amp-hours usage for one day. Sum them all.
The other side of the budget is more involved; e.g., anticipated engine run time per day, alt output. # days between shore power charging (cruising or on a hook), solar, etc.
You're probably not going to change your alternator (or maybe you are considering that?) but the key to balancing your budget is meeting the amp-hrs demand by balancing that against the variables on the supply side of
- Shore charging
- Engine hours
- Alt output
- Solar charging
- Bank capacity
Demand A-Hs = AHs replaced by
Daily Engine supplied AH
+
Daily Solar AHs (if any)
+
Daily Shore AHs (if any)
The Bank capacity has be enough to either/both:
Provide the demand before the daily replenishment is complete
OR
Provide enough to make up any deficit in replenishment until back on shore power.
These links may help you develop a budget
https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,9361.msg69541.html#msg69541
https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,2199.0.html
but basically just start a spreadsheet of every usage you have, amperages, hours on-time during one day.
For each use
Amp x on-hours = amp-hours usage for one day. Sum them all.
The other side of the budget is more involved; e.g., anticipated engine run time per day, alt output. # days between shore power charging (cruising or on a hook), solar, etc.
You're probably not going to change your alternator (or maybe you are considering that?) but the key to balancing your budget is meeting the amp-hrs demand by balancing that against the variables on the supply side of
- Shore charging
- Engine hours
- Alt output
- Solar charging
- Bank capacity
Demand A-Hs = AHs replaced by
Daily Engine supplied AH
+
Daily Solar AHs (if any)
+
Daily Shore AHs (if any)
The Bank capacity has be enough to either/both:
Provide the demand before the daily replenishment is complete
OR
Provide enough to make up any deficit in replenishment until back on shore power.
#7
Main Message Board / Re: Keel to Hull join flaking....
Last post by KWKloeber - Yesterday at 11:43:20 AMQuoteFinally, does anyone know what the keel bedding is on a 2000? It would at least be nice to know what was used that could essentially rot!
Ask Warren Pandy at the factory.
Some have installed a pvc pipe tower at each nut to keep the nut inside dry from water in the bilge. I used 5200 to seal around the bolts and under the washers before nutting down.
Seems that it would be worthwhile to track down the source of in the bilge and eliminate the coolant?
#8
Main Message Board / Re: OIl leak
Last post by KWKloeber - Yesterday at 11:36:35 AMGuenter
Note that the Kubota engine port is NOT 1/8" NPT. It is 1/8" JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) which is for all practical aspects interchangeable with British BSPT thread.
You can buy a BSPT-male x NPT-female adapter or a BSPT x NPT pipe nipple from McMaster and other sources.
Note that the Kubota engine port is NOT 1/8" NPT. It is 1/8" JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) which is for all practical aspects interchangeable with British BSPT thread.
You can buy a BSPT-male x NPT-female adapter or a BSPT x NPT pipe nipple from McMaster and other sources.
#9
Main Message Board / Energy audit
Last post by Jim Hardesty - Yesterday at 06:46:35 AMI've been thinking about batteries and electrical use. I'm starting an energy audit, that is a list of my 12 volt power users and their amp/hour draw.
Has anyone done an energy audit? If so please share and please share how you arrived at your numbers.
As I'm most concerned about use at anchor my list will include LED anchor light, fridge, Keurig coffee maker, cabin fans, possibly Engel freezer and more as I think about it.
Thanks,
Jim
Has anyone done an energy audit? If so please share and please share how you arrived at your numbers.
As I'm most concerned about use at anchor my list will include LED anchor light, fridge, Keurig coffee maker, cabin fans, possibly Engel freezer and more as I think about it.
Thanks,
Jim
#10
Main Message Board / Re: Catalina 34 tall rig mast ...
Last post by tomsoyer - Yesterday at 06:25:37 AMQuote from: tomsoyer on April 14, 2024, 09:32:41 PMI am looking into new sails and I wanted to make sure my vessel is truly a tall rig as I thought it was. I measured the mast from its base on deck to the spin halyard sheave . I got 44'. The 'I' dimension for the standard rig is 44' and tall rig is 46'. What I am not clear on is the mast height measured from the base or from the boats shear line which would be about 2' lower then the base of the mast.
Quote from: Dave Spencer on Yesterday at 04:09:26 AMThe "I" dimension is to the deck.
https://www.uksailmakers.com/encyclopedia/rig-dimensions/
Thanks. That that definition of 'I' is what I was looking for.