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Main Message Board / Re: False high temp readings and engine harness plug
« on: Today at 07:32:21 AM »
Alex do you have a product number for the plug set you used?
- January 26, 2022, 10:10:49 AM
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Main Message Board / Re: GFI not installed
« on: Yesterday at 03:17:30 PM »
ABSOLUTELY not an approved method to wire a receptacle - neither National Electrical Code or ABYC. But what the hell do we care about electrical codes?
ABYC -all terminations MUST be with a properly crimped wire terminal, no wire simply twisted around a screw.
NEC - no stranded wire on a receptacle terminals, GFCI or otherwise.
YBYC, but please make your insurance carrier aware so you don’t affect everyone else’s premium if there’s a claim for a fire.
AND let your dock neighbor know as well so they can decide de whether to move (or have the marina move you.)
This is electricity we’re discussing not a half-assed, Rube Goldberg, jackleg (insert other appropriate adjective) clamp on a potable water line (insert other non boat/human-life threatening noun.)
ABYC -all terminations MUST be with a properly crimped wire terminal, no wire simply twisted around a screw.
NEC - no stranded wire on a receptacle terminals, GFCI or otherwise.
YBYC, but please make your insurance carrier aware so you don’t affect everyone else’s premium if there’s a claim for a fire.
AND let your dock neighbor know as well so they can decide de whether to move (or have the marina move you.)
This is electricity we’re discussing not a half-assed, Rube Goldberg, jackleg (insert other appropriate adjective) clamp on a potable water line (insert other non boat/human-life threatening noun.)
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Main Message Board / Re: winter sucks
« on: Yesterday at 01:28:13 PM »I'm impressed that this guy skis from his boat in northern Norway in February. So, I guess its just a matter of perspective! (Or something!)
https://youtu.be/bbnrz8_UeRY
YIKES.
I don't consider anything "skiing" unless there's a lift involved.
Anything else is "HIKING" (and not the HobiCat variety.)Beautiful scenery though, even the snow-sailing.
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Main Message Board / Re: GFI not installed
« on: Yesterday at 01:19:00 PM »
Understood, but would a 12-ga wire w/ a ferrule fit thu a hole sized for a 12-ga wire (besides it also wouldn't be approved so same insurance notification)?
I know there's different configurations, like push-in backs (can be used only w/ solid conductors) and Shamrock's issue below was with terminals on two receptacles, not the GFCI itself.
Maybe I'm dense but I just don't see the benefit of a workaround -- if there were bad terminal wire crimps on the shore power cable at the distribution panel, or bad butt crimps on a bilge pump -- find a workaround or simply re-do them w/ proper electrical crimps? I guess it's just a YBYC thing.
I know there's different configurations, like push-in backs (can be used only w/ solid conductors) and Shamrock's issue below was with terminals on two receptacles, not the GFCI itself.
Maybe I'm dense but I just don't see the benefit of a workaround -- if there were bad terminal wire crimps on the shore power cable at the distribution panel, or bad butt crimps on a bilge pump -- find a workaround or simply re-do them w/ proper electrical crimps? I guess it's just a YBYC thing.
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Main Message Board / Re: How do I remove the oil pressure switch?
« on: Yesterday at 12:58:43 PM »
Tim
I presume that you have the single terminal switch. If you shorted the switch terminal (or removed the wire terminal and shorted the wire) to ground, then you bypassed the switch. If no alarm, then it's not the switch causing the no-alarm -- because you bypassed it.
Could be a bad (blue) switch wire itself; a bad connection @ the alarm; a bad 12v+ to the alarm; bad engine ground; etc. Once the blue wire (or alarm S terminal) is grounded the switch is taken out of the equation.
I presume that you have the single terminal switch. If you shorted the switch terminal (or removed the wire terminal and shorted the wire) to ground, then you bypassed the switch. If no alarm, then it's not the switch causing the no-alarm -- because you bypassed it.
Could be a bad (blue) switch wire itself; a bad connection @ the alarm; a bad 12v+ to the alarm; bad engine ground; etc. Once the blue wire (or alarm S terminal) is grounded the switch is taken out of the equation.
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Main Message Board / Re: GFI not installed
« on: January 24, 2022, 09:21:14 PM »
How would one ‘turn’ a ferrule’d wire end around a screw?
The wire ends need to encircle the screw and be pinched closed.
Why not just a properly crimped terminal?
I used heat shrink rings, but a reasonable alternative would be ‘captive’ forks or the half-ring terminals (removing and replacing the receptacle screws to get full-ring terminals on there can be a PITA.)
The wire ends need to encircle the screw and be pinched closed.
Why not just a properly crimped terminal?
I used heat shrink rings, but a reasonable alternative would be ‘captive’ forks or the half-ring terminals (removing and replacing the receptacle screws to get full-ring terminals on there can be a PITA.)
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Main Message Board / Re: GFI not installed
« on: January 24, 2022, 04:09:01 PM »
As far as any information I’ve seen, household receptacles are designed and approved for ONLY solid wire, not stranded.
YBYC, but just let your insurance carrier know so it can be noted. If there’s a fire, doing it not to code shouldn’t affect everyone else’s premium.
YBYC, but just let your insurance carrier know so it can be noted. If there’s a fire, doing it not to code shouldn’t affect everyone else’s premium.
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Main Message Board / Re: GFI not installed
« on: January 24, 2022, 07:11:15 AM »
Jim,
In a word, “Yes.”
Virtually anywhere there’s a leakage that unbalances the current in the hot leg vs the neutral leg could cause a trip. They are very touchy animals. And it gets worse trying to tie it down if the leakage point is intermittent. Checking the resistance in the whole loop can confirm IF there’s a fault (if you happen to hit the intermittent event) but not its LOCATION.
In a word, “Yes.”
Virtually anywhere there’s a leakage that unbalances the current in the hot leg vs the neutral leg could cause a trip. They are very touchy animals. And it gets worse trying to tie it down if the leakage point is intermittent. Checking the resistance in the whole loop can confirm IF there’s a fault (if you happen to hit the intermittent event) but not its LOCATION.
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Main Message Board / Re: GFI not installed
« on: January 23, 2022, 07:18:14 PM »
It is a new GFCI?
What are you plugging in?
What is the resistance from hot to ground and neutral to ground
What are you plugging in?
What is the resistance from hot to ground and neutral to ground
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Main Message Board / Re: GFI not installed
« on: January 20, 2022, 12:53:47 PM »
EIS
Presuming you tried a new GFCI and it trips, then you have leakage somewhere.
From hot to ground (or neutral to ground - i.e., the current is not returning back via the neutral leg.) The GFCI measures the current in the hot leg and neutral leg, and trips if they are not equal (within tolerance.)
So you could systematically disconnect/remove receptacles (or whatever else is) on the circuit until she no longer trips. Of course, have nothing plugged in so you eliminate an equipment issue. When you find what caused it to trip, replace it. (it could be a wiring issue, not just a faulty receptacle.)
Of course - work on the receptacles with the shore power disconnected.
Another way is to check the entire circuit as-is for leakage -- from the GFCI location on. You should have "zero" continuity between the hot/neutral and neutral/ground with everything unplugged, but you need a very sensitive (and accurate) meter. If my math is correct, the resistance between legs must be greater than 0.0002 ohms otherwise the CFCI can trip.
Or alternately could measure the current traveling down the hot leg with nothing plugged in. It should be less than 4 milliamp, otherwise, the GFCI can trip.
Presuming you tried a new GFCI and it trips, then you have leakage somewhere.
From hot to ground (or neutral to ground - i.e., the current is not returning back via the neutral leg.) The GFCI measures the current in the hot leg and neutral leg, and trips if they are not equal (within tolerance.)
So you could systematically disconnect/remove receptacles (or whatever else is) on the circuit until she no longer trips. Of course, have nothing plugged in so you eliminate an equipment issue. When you find what caused it to trip, replace it. (it could be a wiring issue, not just a faulty receptacle.)
Of course - work on the receptacles with the shore power disconnected.
Another way is to check the entire circuit as-is for leakage -- from the GFCI location on. You should have "zero" continuity between the hot/neutral and neutral/ground with everything unplugged, but you need a very sensitive (and accurate) meter. If my math is correct, the resistance between legs must be greater than 0.0002 ohms otherwise the CFCI can trip.
Or alternately could measure the current traveling down the hot leg with nothing plugged in. It should be less than 4 milliamp, otherwise, the GFCI can trip.
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Main Message Board / Re: Updating our bilge pump.
« on: January 20, 2022, 12:31:13 PM »
I had replaced both my Rule bilge pump and manual bilge pump hoses with Shields 141 PVC Flex Hose (meant for bilge and live wells.) It's a semi-clear (smoke-gray) smooth-bore, helical hose that seemed very nice to work with. This year I had to move the manual hose at the bilge end and it's hard as a rock -- in fact to move it out of the way it broke off in my hand. I tried flexing it a foot farther aft and the same thing - broke off.
Has anyone used that hose nd noticed that issue??? Yeah, its 10 yrs old but still......
I'm wondering if there is a better choice???
My manual hose didn't have a strainer on it and I'd just leave it lay in the bilge - in the past I could flex it 90 deg so the end was flat against the bilge to suck out the last 1/4". It was quite pliable - like a 90 bend in the distance of 12"-15" NO way now.
-Ken
Has anyone used that hose nd noticed that issue??? Yeah, its 10 yrs old but still......
I'm wondering if there is a better choice???
My manual hose didn't have a strainer on it and I'd just leave it lay in the bilge - in the past I could flex it 90 deg so the end was flat against the bilge to suck out the last 1/4". It was quite pliable - like a 90 bend in the distance of 12"-15" NO way now.
-Ken
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Main Message Board / Re: Magnesium sacrificial anodes
« on: January 20, 2022, 12:08:09 PM »
Possibly a shaft whip? Check to see if the shaft is true (and don't put the anode in the middle of the span.)
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Main Message Board / Re: Disappearing coolant
« on: January 16, 2022, 01:58:44 PM »[
Quite true, Ken.
But the water heater isn't always hot, is it?
Unless I need hot water, the electric side on my boat is off. Indeed, I only turn the electricity to it on for about half an hour before I need it, and, when hot enough, I turn the power off.
Likewise, when I go off sailing, the water is cold when I get on the boat and only warms up when I motor.
I wasn’t clear. The WH being on or off, water hot or cold, is irrelevant - the pressure pump raises the water vessel pressure to above the engine coolant pressure. Heating the water can raise it even further, but that’s also irrelevant- so long as potable system pressure is greater than 15 psi, engine coolant can’t move into the WH.
BUT as I said, if the potable pump is off, then toxic engine coolant COULD move into the potable water but it’ll co-mingle/linger there until the pump is on and a tap or shower is opened up. i.e., you won’t noticeably “lose” coolant, at least not a significant continuous volime because the potable system is a closed loop and there’s nowhere for the coolant to go to - unlike the engine side which is not closed and has a low-pressure relief valve.
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Main Message Board / Re: exhaust flange leak?
« on: January 16, 2022, 01:33:09 PM »Alex, if wiggling makes something happen, have you considered removing the tape before you get your new connectors to see what's going on in there?
You could easily find a shorting connection which could/would ruin your day (as noted in Critical Upgrades). You could separate the wires and connect them individually for safety until you get your new connectors.
Tape can hide a boatload of sin!!!
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Main Message Board / Re: exhaust flange leak?
« on: January 15, 2022, 07:09:50 PM »
Save yourself future headaches and just butt crimp them together.
WWWHHHYYY DDDOOOEEESSS ANYONE NEED TERMINALS THERE????
I quit popping my engine in and out every season for a spring cleaning so no longer need disconnects on the harness.
*** WWWWHHHYYYY DOES AAANNNYYYOOONNNEEE STILL HAVE GUMMY BEAR PLUGS ON THEIR HARNESS?!?!? ***
Ok, that rant over - HIGH RESISTANCE at the gummy bear IS NOT the cause.
High resistance on the S wire causes a LOW temp gauge reading. Grounding the S wire (zero resistance) causes the gauge to pin high.
PERHAPS the plug is “leaking” over to the harness ground ???? I’ve never seen that happen or confirmed it, but the gauge is DEFO not reading high from high resistance!!
IIWMG, I’d check it per the troubleshooting guide I posted on the wiki, AND IIWMTS verify its resistance at two temps.
@ 70 deg it should be **about** 700 ohms and at boiling it should be **about** ohms.
ALSO the gauge is accurate to **about** +/- 15 degrees.
WWWHHHYYY DDDOOOEEESSS ANYONE NEED TERMINALS THERE????
I quit popping my engine in and out every season for a spring cleaning so no longer need disconnects on the harness.
*** WWWWHHHYYYY DOES AAANNNYYYOOONNNEEE STILL HAVE GUMMY BEAR PLUGS ON THEIR HARNESS?!?!? ***
Ok, that rant over - HIGH RESISTANCE at the gummy bear IS NOT the cause.
High resistance on the S wire causes a LOW temp gauge reading. Grounding the S wire (zero resistance) causes the gauge to pin high.
PERHAPS the plug is “leaking” over to the harness ground ???? I’ve never seen that happen or confirmed it, but the gauge is DEFO not reading high from high resistance!!
IIWMG, I’d check it per the troubleshooting guide I posted on the wiki, AND IIWMTS verify its resistance at two temps.
@ 70 deg it should be **about** 700 ohms and at boiling it should be **about** ohms.
ALSO the gauge is accurate to **about** +/- 15 degrees.