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- October 14, 2019, 09:38:15 PM
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Main Message Board / Re: "Burping technique" Clarification
« on: October 11, 2019, 09:46:46 AM »
Tim
That "filling" is done with the engine off, you're simply adding coolant to the WH hose loop => to the top of the pump => to the engine block -- until coolant fills up to the bottom of the TStat housing.
"Burping" is actually with the engine running (mentioned in the old post) where you do "burp" out air that is left in the system by revving the engine to force it thru the system and and letting it escape out of the thermostat petcock. On the 30 we have another method (same engine, different WH location) -- remove the coolant pressure cap (on a COLD engine,) rev the engine (which draws down the coolant level) and add coolant until it's topped off. That forces air to and out of the pressure cap neck, which you replace with coolant. But if you fill thru the WH loop you shouldn't need to do the other(s) -- they're just additional options in case you still have air in the system.
ken
That "filling" is done with the engine off, you're simply adding coolant to the WH hose loop => to the top of the pump => to the engine block -- until coolant fills up to the bottom of the TStat housing.
"Burping" is actually with the engine running (mentioned in the old post) where you do "burp" out air that is left in the system by revving the engine to force it thru the system and and letting it escape out of the thermostat petcock. On the 30 we have another method (same engine, different WH location) -- remove the coolant pressure cap (on a COLD engine,) rev the engine (which draws down the coolant level) and add coolant until it's topped off. That forces air to and out of the pressure cap neck, which you replace with coolant. But if you fill thru the WH loop you shouldn't need to do the other(s) -- they're just additional options in case you still have air in the system.
ken
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Main Message Board / Re: water in bilge
« on: October 11, 2019, 07:56:02 AM »Ken, what are those hoses for that are running into the bilge? and how many keel bolts should i expect when i drain it? i'll be back to my boat and take pictures next tuesday. thanks
becki
Sorry bout late reply, I am not getting all posts emailed to me. I can’t seem to fix that.
I used the wire wound exhaust hose but on the 30 the angle of and short distance between the fittings makes it A BEAR OF A PITA to get on new hoses. It’s not a job for the faint of heart and some have used non-wire, and the corrugated hose for easier bends to work it onto the fittings. Another (pic below) just removed the cockpit fitting to get the hose on and then back together. I don’t know how bad the job is on the 34, but that’s 3 hose options you have if it’s as tight as ours are. You can also use silicone exh hose. It’s easier if you grind the barbs off the fittings, warm the hose, lube it, etc. Again I don’t know how difficult they are/the job is on the 34 MK-1.
Pics of your bilge will help ID any hoses.
I have 7 keel bolts, see pic (not my boat) I dunno bout the 34.
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Main Message Board / Re: water in bilge
« on: October 08, 2019, 08:37:47 PM »
becki if the scupper hoses are original they are overdue. Mine lasted 20 yrs before they failed and made an absolute mess while on the hard for two years. Run a hose in the cockpit while checking below for water flow to the bilge.
-k
-k
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Main Message Board / Re: Does anyone know what this is?
« on: October 07, 2019, 07:03:15 AM »
Gents: Asked 15 posts ago
<<is one side flat and the other rounded (ie, is it D shaped like half a cotter pin?)>>
The principles of “multiple lines of evidence” and “Ockham's Razor.”
<<is one side flat and the other rounded (ie, is it D shaped like half a cotter pin?)>>
The principles of “multiple lines of evidence” and “Ockham's Razor.”
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Main Message Board / Re: MKII Electrical troubleshooting
« on: October 05, 2019, 07:11:35 PM »
Scott
Since all three are out, I’d first suspect the common neutral for the mast. Make sure you don’t have a forgotten neutral connection at the neutral terminal block/buss.
Start checking for power with your multi meter or 12v test light.
Start at the load (bulb) side of the switches for each. If there’s power there obviously you have wiring issues. If not then start looking for buss issues.
Don’t ignore your neutrals.
Since all three are out, I’d first suspect the common neutral for the mast. Make sure you don’t have a forgotten neutral connection at the neutral terminal block/buss.
Start checking for power with your multi meter or 12v test light.
Start at the load (bulb) side of the switches for each. If there’s power there obviously you have wiring issues. If not then start looking for buss issues.
Don’t ignore your neutrals.
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Main Message Board / Re: 160 thermostat vrs 180
« on: October 02, 2019, 09:10:39 AM »
Jim
Diesels run more efficiently at higher temp.
The tractor TStat is 180, the marine (univ/Wb) TStat is 160 (i.e., they don’t offer a freshwater option.)
I suspect you could restrict the cooking flow a little bit at a time until the engine temp settles out to 180 to try it.
Diesels run more efficiently at higher temp.
The tractor TStat is 180, the marine (univ/Wb) TStat is 160 (i.e., they don’t offer a freshwater option.)
I suspect you could restrict the cooking flow a little bit at a time until the engine temp settles out to 180 to try it.
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Main Message Board / Re: Universal M35B steam at 2500 rpm
« on: October 01, 2019, 09:38:31 PM »
{edited}
- temp of seawater? (didn't mention sailing location.)
- 2500 shouldn't be "overloading" - is tach accurate (check with laser tach)
Derek
is your temp gauge accurate (check w/ laser temp gun)
Is there a blockage downstream of the pump (which pump do you have?) Pull Hx end plates and check the seawater injection wye above the muffler.
check for a good strong flow coming off the seawater pump- and downsteam into the muffler.
What temp TStat? Should be 160F for saltwater (can be 180F for freshwater. )
- temp of seawater? (didn't mention sailing location.)
- 2500 shouldn't be "overloading" - is tach accurate (check with laser tach)
Derek
is your temp gauge accurate (check w/ laser temp gun)
Is there a blockage downstream of the pump (which pump do you have?) Pull Hx end plates and check the seawater injection wye above the muffler.
check for a good strong flow coming off the seawater pump- and downsteam into the muffler.
What temp TStat? Should be 160F for saltwater (can be 180F for freshwater. )
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Main Message Board / Re: Water in rudder
« on: September 30, 2019, 04:06:43 PM »
Speaking of a wet rudder - here's an interesting vid from Boatworks on rebulding a waterlogged, foam-filled rudder.
See the subsequent vids for 'the rest of the story.'
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MRXNnFx7DBQ
See the subsequent vids for 'the rest of the story.'
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MRXNnFx7DBQ
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Main Message Board / Re: Water heater by pass
« on: September 30, 2019, 01:39:25 PM »
A pic, Jeff?
The 5 gal Seaward WH is a cylinder laying on its side -- the heating element is at the lowest point (invert) in the cylinder, the drain cock being a little higher. If you unbolted and tipped the WH you could get out a little more, but it doesn't matter -- a little water lying in the bottom of a 5-gal cylinder is meaningless when it comes to that freezing. Some other brands like isotherm are the same but the cube box surrounding it. Or like Raritan are a vertical cylinder.
If yours (brand?) has the hose at (or near) the bottom then draining there you should be doing the same as if you had a drain cock.
The 5 gal Seaward WH is a cylinder laying on its side -- the heating element is at the lowest point (invert) in the cylinder, the drain cock being a little higher. If you unbolted and tipped the WH you could get out a little more, but it doesn't matter -- a little water lying in the bottom of a 5-gal cylinder is meaningless when it comes to that freezing. Some other brands like isotherm are the same but the cube box surrounding it. Or like Raritan are a vertical cylinder.
If yours (brand?) has the hose at (or near) the bottom then draining there you should be doing the same as if you had a drain cock.
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Main Message Board / Re: MaineSail or other SmartGauge SG100 guru question
« on: September 27, 2019, 03:47:02 PM »
PERFECT, Thanks Rod!!
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Main Message Board / Re: Muffler removal through aft cabin
« on: September 27, 2019, 01:55:23 PM »
Sloop
Can you tell if it’s the port getting crushed by the clamping too tight?
I had that issue and I just happened to have an aluminum tube that was a force fit that I tapped into both tubes to reinforce them.
Do you use a silicone hump hose?
I had other leaks though and eventually took out the Aqualift.
There’s an article on the wiki about refurbishing a cracked tube.
Can you tell if it’s the port getting crushed by the clamping too tight?
I had that issue and I just happened to have an aluminum tube that was a force fit that I tapped into both tubes to reinforce them.
Do you use a silicone hump hose?
I had other leaks though and eventually took out the Aqualift.
There’s an article on the wiki about refurbishing a cracked tube.
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Main Message Board / MaineSail Smart Gauge guru question
« on: September 27, 2019, 09:43:44 AM »
Rod
Ok, I'm dense and the situation doesn't quite match your very clear diagram (I note that it corrects the install manual schematic faux pas) so I just want to be 100% certain here.
Without getting into the weeds of why they're there - in the below, the buss and additional cable makes no nevermind to the Smart Gauge accuracy?
< https://c34.org/wiki/images/f/f3/SG_Buss.png >
Ok, I'm dense and the situation doesn't quite match your very clear diagram (I note that it corrects the install manual schematic faux pas) so I just want to be 100% certain here.
Without getting into the weeds of why they're there - in the below, the buss and additional cable makes no nevermind to the Smart Gauge accuracy?
< https://c34.org/wiki/images/f/f3/SG_Buss.png >
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Main Message Board / Re: oil hose kit?
« on: September 26, 2019, 02:26:30 PM »
Hopefully the parts manual has the right thread sizes called out since the shop doesn’t have the Universal/Westerbeke PN’s.
Jon, why not drain the oil beforehand and take the parts w/u? And have one of those happy hour margaritas while you're there?
-k