Messages

I dint look up the measurements of the Jabsco (like mine) vs the Sherwood, but product pictures look like they are very close to the same.  Same form factor and inlet.

I won't beat this up any more but if anyone wants to install a ball valve (BEFORE their macerator fails and it becomes a poopy mess) I can show how to make it fit. 

[very nice!]

Thx Jon.  Nice pix, very "explicative." 
The way you relocated it (very nice!) a valve would fit either on the horiz** or on the vertical. 

And leave room for two square dances.

**(On the horiz so long as you have 1-7/8" between the center of the tank outlet to the hull.)


-Ken

Update.

Yeah Noah, I see a bulkhead or wall or something.
Looks like you have the  tank hose barb almost  butted against the barb on the macerator.

(all conjecture on thicknesses but) eliminating the width of the hub on the exit barb and cutting off the barb on the macerator, there's enough distance for a compact valve and still hold a square dance.

I love when I hear "must do" or "can't do" something (like install a water cooled riser in a 34.)  It gives me "engineer Plan B tingles." d;-)

Yeah dang.
Is that up against a bulkhead or is there some flexibility/leeway in position of the macerator?

I agree with Ron that on the MKI it is very tight. Maybe Mick's MKII has more room between macerator pump and tank?

Noah - are you saying between the tank outlet and tee for the macerator?  Is there 5 inches?

Ken—It will take only slightly less effort than you described to "detect the smell of coolant in the exhaust". ;-)

Noah and if he turtles the boat I suspect coolant in the cylinder maybe one of the last thought-of worries. then  then then then  

PS: I have gotten a few excellent open-box buys on GF double-union valves on eBay.

Hey Mick

If you insert a ball valve be sure it's a full-port. 
For commercial uses that I have, I like Gorge Fisher valves and would use a compact GF+ 374 PVC-U, double true union, threaded socket (to accept hose barbs) valve.  Pricey is an understatement but the huge benefit is you can remove it to service/clean and not screw around with hose barbs. The 374 is a less expensive cousin of the GF+ 375 PVC-U which is what I used for severe applications.
https://www.gfps.com/content/dam/gfps/com/datasheets/en/gfps-datasheet-374-375-ball-valve-en.pdf

.

@KW - I didn't see the part number from the Kubota manual - perhaps it varies by application?  Part ordered. 

See, I maintain relevance in my old age by supplying obscure part numbers!!

Correct, it's not in all Kbu D950 (XP cousin) manuals -- it depends on what equipment the Kbu engine went into.
It is in the Kbu D850 (M25 cousin) manual (but again not in all of them.)

Just so that you understand the mechanics of the "plumbing," if the gasket is compromised, the most likely occurrence will be that as coolant heats and expands, pressure (about 15 psi) in the closed cooling system will push coolant past the solid half of the gasket (that seals against the exhaust manifold water jacket) into the very end of the exhaust side of the manifold and out the flange/riser.  While that's possible it's likely a low probability because you didn't remove the flange and so just loosened the gasket seating against the exhaust manifold water jacket and didn't tear it.

The telltale of that leak is if your coolant level keeps inexplicably running low and/or you have an antifreeze odor in the exhaust.

(A dramatic coolant loss also happens if the gasket is put on backward -- as soon you start the engine, all coolant is pumped out the riser/muffler/exhaust hose.)

To have coolant from a leaky gasket get back into the engine, you would need to run/shut it down, turtle the boat (manifold upsidedown,) the closed system pressure keep pushing coolant past the gasket, coolant make its way up (now down) into the exhaust ports to an open exhaust valve, then right the boat so gravity can dribble coolant down into a cylinder.

Aaron

down 40ah accepting 40 amps of current from the alternator. It's still a pretty full bank. Don't batteries only accept that kind of charge when there down around 50% or 60% SOC?

I am clueless about your bank. 
How did you determine those numbers?
What is your theoretical total AHs and what was the battery voltage during the episode?
The alternator output on a dumb regulator depends strictly on the absorbing resistance, which is also related to the battery voltage/SOC.   What batteries and brand are they?

-Ken 

What is the amperage or wattage rating of the fan?

The bleeder valve seems specific to the marine version

The bleed valve assembly is standard on the D-950 Kubota Engine (B7200 Kubota tractor, etc) , not a "Marine Part"
Kubota current P/N  14311-60505 (replaces 14311-60500; 14311-60504; 14311-60580) 
It's on Amazon, eBay, and all over the internet

Had you tried Kumar Bros for an IP?

@BR

I don't know what's behind YOUR panel - a picture would help greatly when asking questions about a specific issue.  But generally, the negative wire to the fan will go on the negative DC terminal strip and the positive wire needs to tap into the feed after the switch.  Does the lights' feed go to a terminal strip or are they feed direct from the switch?  If that, then you should install a terminal block and jumper the switch to the block, and from the block to the lights and fan. 

There are other concerns -- is the wire heavy enough for the load and distance?  What amperage does it draw (probably low, these days) -- it may need a fuse in-line with the feed to the fan.

[Breakin]

Breakin confirmed he installed a 2-1/4" pump and the part number.
https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,9461.msg77421.html#msg77421

What are you questioning?  Where did you obtain "for a 2000 Catalina the part number is 16251-73032".

I think if you need further confirmation than Breakin's actual install, you might need to call several dealers (as Breakin did) until you find one in stock and confirm the part number and impeller size.
Or as I said earlier Kumar Bros lists a replacement to the Westerbeke part number (I believe on Amazon.)

Just one more option

One could fab the whole shebag and eliminate the formed hose altogether, using various copper sweat fittings.
The coolant pump inlet is the same size as the OD of a 3/4" female copper sweat fitting and the 7/8" hose to the Hx fits the OD of copper tubing.

This copper fitting shebang was on the OEM bracket but would be the same idea for the Mod bracket.

So being down only 40 amp hours,  on my house bank wouldn't be expected to produce that much of an acceptance rate eh? I thought it seemed excessive.

I wouldn't think so, but Alt output is controlled by the internal resistance of the batteries (PLUS any loads running at the same time as charging the bank.)  So it's not just being down 40 A-Hr, its the condition of the bank.  I had one shorted wet cell and the shore charger was boiling off acid all over the top of that battery.  it was hot as a pistol -- good thing I was aboard.

Perhaps try adding your loads back on only one at a time and see if one of them makes her jump excessively??

They are made to output 55a and not burn up -- BUT NOT 100% DUTY CYCLE!

-kk