Join the C34 Association Today!
[C34 Home] [C34Tech Notes] [C34 Tech Wiki] [Join!]
Please login or register.
Advanced search  


Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - KWKloeber

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 302
Main Message Board / Re: Grounding on Inverter AC ouput
« on: July 20, 2022, 07:22:24 PM »

So I have the impression that the ground was made by the neutral wire.
Possible ?

The manual says how it is grounded when OFF or in inverter mode.  And how grounded with shore power applied.

Is your 12v NEG and engine bonded per ABYC?
Or is the bond broken or removed (to avoid galvanic corrosion from other boats)?

Suggest this is something you may not want to screw around with unless you have the knowledge and may want to get a QUALIFIED marine electrician's look-see.  The life you don't electrocute might be someone else's.

Or get and understand a copy of ABYC E-11.

Main Message Board / Re: Compression Test
« on: July 20, 2022, 05:39:53 PM »

I use the Globe impellers that are "Run Dry" !!

I'd like to try those but have heard (from Depco) that they don't pump as much volume.

Main Message Board / Re: Compression Test
« on: July 20, 2022, 05:31:37 PM »
If the closed WATER system is leaking then what you test/isolate is the closed WATER system, not the cylinder.
The M25 has (at least) 3 potential causes of losing coolant out the exhaust, so why focus on the least likely one?

The FiRST logical step is a vacuum test on the seawater side of the Hx (easier than a pressure test, and easier than on the coolant side.) 

The SECOND logical step is to test the exhaust manifold, first just as it sits (connected to the engine block.)  Using a radiator pressure tester (loaner from auto parts) OR the same brake line vac pump as on the Hx.
Test #2 fails THEN test w/ the EM isolated (block off the two hose paths to the engine.)

If #1 Hx test fails, it's a bad Hx.
If the EM test #2 fails, it's either an exhaust gasket leak or a water jacket leak.
If the EM test #3 fails, it's the gasket. If EM#3 test passes, it's a water jacket leak.

If you have no coolant in the oil (you will see the muddy concoction on the dipstick) you don't have a head gasket problem.  There's no evidence to suggest that -- head gaskets don't just "go bad."  You didn't overheat (warp the head,) bla bla bla. 

You likely have either:

     a) A leak at the exhaust gasket.  If you install it backwards, 100% of the coolant will be in the sea within 5 minutes.  A leaky one will dribble coolant into the exhaust. 
Find a new "mechanic" if one tells you anything otherwise.

     b) A pinhole leak in one tube in the Hx.

Because you did exhaust work, evidence suggests that is the cause. 
Except what is "recently"??? 
Just before the incident?  Had the engine run ok for one season after doing the work?
Was she run ok one time?

Complete info helps us to help you.

You didn't answer is it the 2" or 3" Hx? 

I WOULD NOT be surprised if she came up 5 degrees SOLELY because of a 2" Hx.    That needs replacing sooner than later anyway - at 36 years you are WAY overdue and on not borrowed time, but defibrillator time.  Even if it is the 3".  However, losing coolant as well - says to me you have a bad Hx right NOW, not soon.   
Typical Hx life is maybe 20 years -- my 2" Hx pinholed at 15 years (freshwater.  Salt is worse, obviously.)

If time is of the essence you're wasting time chasing a less than 1% chance of the cause. 
Or go with your gut, YBYC.

My assessment after 29 years owning and working on others' M-25s is:
   Under normal circumstances - 90+% chance it's your Hx;
   However, because of the prior work it's 50% chance the gasket.
   0.1% chance it's a head gasket. 

Did you replace or test the pressure cap?
Is there coolant being pushed into the overflow reservoir? (and not returning?)

If continued use/reliability is critical -
(1) Replace the Hx -- it is going to fail soon if it hasn't already.
(2) Put a wrench on and tighten the exhaust flange nuts.

YBYC how you decide to proceed.  :shock:


Main Message Board / Re: Boston Area Marine Mechanics
« on: July 20, 2022, 05:12:41 PM »
Have you talked to Hansen Marine?

Main Message Board / Re: Compression Test
« on: July 20, 2022, 10:56:17 AM »

OK, I'll bite, why close the thru-hull - what's different than just attaching a gauge?  Are you meaning flooding the muffler/hydrolock? 
Another option is (IMO better) to open the muffler drain (which coincidently forces maintenance/replacing it if it needs that.) Plus it keeps the impeller lubricated.


Let's do some troubleshooting before jumping to the conclusion that it may be a head gasket.

What makes you say that -- does she run any differently "now" than "before"?

Year of the engine?
Any maintenance on it, such as
   * changing the Hx, or is it original? (2"? or 3"?)
   * changing or disturbing the exhaust flange or gasket on the exhaust manifold?

Are you losing a quart a day or a cup a month? Perspective.
What are the sea conditions?  temp/humidity when you notice that?  Possibly high humidity and low sea temp?

If you have a cylinder that isn't exploding correctly due to compression or the injector you can sequentially crack open the fuel line to each cylinder (interrupting the fuel flow) -- (use protection to keep diesel from blowing all over.)  When a "bad" cylinder is hit the change in RPM, rough running, will not be as great as when other "normal" cylinders are not firing.   

If she's losing coolant and there's a cloud following her -- then WHAT IS the cloud if it's not coolant (i.e., steam??)  is there a coolant odor?

Pressure test the Hx if it is "old," you could be losing coolant thru there - more likely than a blown head gasket.  Occam's Razor!!!  You can do that on-engine with a simple pressure gauge or get a simple/CHEAP Horror Fright brake line vacuum tester -- it's worth its weight in Rubles when troubleshooting water and fuel line leaks.

Remember that if you want to get wet you can stuff the outside of the log and control a great amount of flow that will come in around the shaft.

Even IF IT could be cut in the water, what's Plan B (one ALWAYS NEEDS a B) if things go south?

>>>Ron you have made these cuts in the water, Noah and KWKloeber (Ken?) you joke/pushed back on this idea.  What are the concerns/things to consider.<<<

Read it carefully, he said YOU should be able to do it in the water. He said only that he cut it in place (not necessarily in the water.)

Main Message Board / Re: Deck reinforcements
« on: July 17, 2022, 01:20:20 PM »
The wiki has a search but it's pretty specific. 
“Reinforcement” isn't found but adding an S or * does locate the document.

This search page (the box was on the main page but is no longer) is (IMO) the most useful.


cut a Stainless Steel shaft with a sawzall while in the water and with the engine in place?? “Brave” operation!

He didn't have AC to run the saw so he just ran the engine and held the blade against the shaft!   :rolling :rolling :rolling


I noticed that the anodes might be in a location for "shaft whip."  Not the worst (mid-span) but IIWMB I'd place them 2 diameters from the strut and hull.

Main Message Board / Re: Anchor chain markings
« on: July 13, 2022, 06:43:41 PM »

I want to be a fly on one of your neighbors' wall.  LOL

You have so many groovy projects that you have done!  At which point do they circle back around to the beginning and you start doing them again with a new idea/technology????

Main Message Board / Re: M25 ignition switch replacement
« on: July 13, 2022, 06:36:07 PM »
There's one more option for those who may be reworking an old panel --

A C-H powerboat ignition switch - OFF-ON-START w/ PUSH to CHOKE (for the preheat.)
One switch, easy peazy operation, save space on the panel, but I would use that only if you have a preheat solenoid (as on the "A" and "B" engines.)   

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 302