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Messages - KWKloeber

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 233
Main Message Board / Re: fuel bleeder valve part #
« on: April 30, 2020, 10:46:15 AM »
Techwiki website > manuals > parts manual for your engine

Itís listed, I believe, on the page w/ the injector pump.
Local Kubota dealer can order the part - thatís where I got mine (m25, same part, oem had the bleed bolt, I switched to the valve.)  Or google the p/n, or

Main Message Board / Re: alternator
« on: April 17, 2020, 01:30:14 PM »

Do you recognize this Alt/ model no.?
It doesn't look like a L-N.  It's Ken's original alt.


Main Message Board / Re: alternator
« on: April 12, 2020, 04:37:44 PM »

The alt model number is STAMPED into the side of the case, behind the fan.  You may be looking at the faded regulator model number on the back, not the Alt p/n.
if you have an m25 or XP, it's likely an 8MR2049K alt, actually a 51-a motorola/prestolite.

I've typically supplied/recommended a Wilson remanufactured 2049K (Wilson p/n 90-05-9141) -- top quality and reasonable cost and a direct drop-in - about $150.  If you wanted to upgrade a bit, there's a 72-a reman prestolite that is a drop-in (the one that was optional on the M25/xp and it also boasts an external voltage sense - the 2049K is an internal voltage sense.)
note that the Wilson remains list as not including a pulley but I have not seen one that does NOT come with the pulley installed.

You can find on amazon etc - an "8MR2049K" replacement but it's an offshore knock-off, not a prestolite.

Anything more info you need on above jus lemme know.

-ken also

Main Message Board / Re: New Lewmar 65 Installation
« on: April 07, 2020, 08:56:03 AM »
Just passing along what my Lewmar rep had said a couple months ago when I inquired about a replacement hatch.....

ď Your customer probably has a factory Acrylic as they are an extreme pain to make them. The reason he has a question about Acrylic thickness is that the thickness is what I call a ďpour depthĒ Acrylic shrinks when it cures so the thickness is never what itís called. To add to the confusion, European Acrylics are poured to a metric ďpour depthĒ so U.S. Acrylics and European acrylics are never the same. In hatches itís no big deal. In portlights however, they are thickness critical. Go figure. Hatches are safe to walk on and I never think twice about it. I have never fallen thru a fully closed and dogged hatch. An open one yes, It hurts like hell. Never step on a hatch with a vent. It will gut you like a pig and you will die.
Lewmar is a barely functional company that went out of business. They were purchased by Lippert Components. They own Taylor Made Fenders. They moved the company to Gloversville, New York. Not a single shipment since mid December. I have thousands of orders placed and am just waiting for them to come back to life. Their computer tells me that they have 52 of the hatch your customer needs. When he can get it is anyones guess.Ē

Main Message Board / Re: Air filter on M35B
« on: March 22, 2020, 08:26:58 AM »
<<< You could consider just getting the genuine Westebeke part. >>>

Iím confused. Why are you looking to replace the unit with a KN?  Donít you (correct me) have a perfectly good intake?  A KN doesnít solve what you want - to get rid of the crankcase breather hose being divorced from the air intake.

Others -
enlighten me. Whatís the benefit of an oil catcher?  Iíve seen pop bottles, coffee cans, and bought filter units. But why introduce that when just routing the breather hose to the intake works?  Itís the same principle as the PCV valved hose that we all used to have that on our auto engines that ran to the carburetor and sucked fumes from a hole in the valve cover.  (And as I said Kubota does on some of those engine configurations.)

Main Message Board / Re: Leak in hull to deck joint
« on: March 22, 2020, 08:03:38 AM »

Did check to see if the nut(s) had loosened?,10335.msg79870/topicseen.html#msg79870


Main Message Board / Re: Air filter on M35B
« on: March 14, 2020, 04:22:39 PM »

Yeah the westerbeke solution of cutting off the hose at a 45 and zip tying it to the intake is, well, typical westerbeke. Not the most elegant.

Iím familiar with the m25xpb intake which should look much like the 35b. There should be a knockout on the intake manifold, just adjacent to the air cleaner/silencer.  On some Kubota engines (tractors?) the knockout is replaced with a hose nipple that accepts the crankcase breather hose.  I can look up the Kubota part number we used for the intake hose nipple if you want that route.
Of course another option is to just drill and tap a hole in the throat just behind the silencer (for a threaded hose barb.)

Or, although this wasnít for the B series, maybe it will give you some ideas to run directly into the silencer on the 35b.

Main Message Board / Re: Throttle Tension Slipping
« on: March 10, 2020, 08:26:21 PM »
I doubt 1/8Ē would fit the cable sheath.  Itís probably more like 3/16Ē OD, so the 1/4Ē should work nicely.

Main Message Board / Re: Throttle Tension Slipping
« on: March 10, 2020, 08:18:52 AM »

using the cable clamp, I went with the clamp and never had any issues. Seems too "simple" to actually work...but it does.

Donít overthink this - a little tension, you donít need to try to crush the assembly to death.
Harbor Freight carries the low-cost wire rope clips (in stainless!) Twofer 2.99.

Easier to adjust if need be than disassembling the binnacle.

Main Message Board / Re: Smallest plumbing pipe diameter
« on: February 06, 2020, 08:15:12 AM »

My bro replumbed his Carver totally in pex.
Plastic pex fittings and a crimper are a whole lot less $$$ than using shark bite type fittings.
The crimp rings and tool do a better job than the crimp/lock type, but that crimp tool is a slight more $$$ than the other. 

The newer type pex that you can use with the plastic expansion/contraction rings is REALLY cool (I was on a project where the plumbers used it) but the tool is $$$$$$$$$$ unless you can borrow one from a plumber.

Main Message Board / Re: Antifreeze: Which type is best?
« on: January 31, 2020, 04:14:36 PM »
I now see the swaged end in the picture. It was not obvious due to the paint.

I have all the manuals downloaded and in hard copies, and they are always my first point of reference. But I still wasn't sure exactly what I was taking a picture of because of how I had to blindly stick my phone down there, so I hoped some others would recognize it.

BA, ok your post post threw me - I thought the issue was you couldn't locate the drain location in a manual, I didn't take it that the issue was locating it on the engine due to the limited space/view.

Anyhew, for other B engine owners, here it is:

Main Message Board / Wiki issues?
« on: January 31, 2020, 04:08:36 PM »
Is anyone having issues signing on to the wiki?

For whatever reason - I was logged off, and now I can't sign on (to edit anything) or reset my password to log in, or anything else to get back in.


Main Message Board / Re: Repainting mast
« on: January 31, 2020, 02:30:20 PM »

MANY yrs ago (CRS) I used a 4 or 5 step process (after removing paint and fine sanding) --
A cleaner, acid etch, rinse, 2-part etching primer, 2 coats finish with a little flattener in it.

I used Dupont Imron for the top coat and the prep steps were what a client recommended (who manufactured concrete mixers and used Imron and that process to paint the drums and truck body and chassis - A very tough industrial finish!)


Main Message Board / Re: Battery Orientation
« on: January 31, 2020, 02:24:25 PM »

You really have to budget out what your energy use is expected to be, which will determine how many amp hours you need to replace, over how many hours she's plugged in.  For longevity sake its good to keep the charger working at half its rating. 40 isn't a lot of amps capacity of you are using the heck out of your maximum available amp-hours and using her every day, but if she's sitting week long that's different.  A VERY general rule of thumb is 10% of your usable amp-hours (ie, 10 amps for every 100 ah of battery - again VERY general, everyone's needs are different.)

Main Message Board / Re: Battery Orientation
« on: January 29, 2020, 06:58:36 PM »
Tim  To answer your specific questions...

Being AGMs, the orientation makes no difference -- unlike flooded cells where the orientation does make a huge difference.

While it's ALWAYS preferable to balance installations by keeping cable lengths equal (and naturally short as possible) your difference is not feet but inches, so (presuming the cables are not WAY undersized) there is no issue with length.

I don't run AGMs but I know that they are easily killed with improper charging, so something to consider (not knowing what improvements you have ongoing.)  Not to put any pressure on but Winter is 1/3 gone!

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