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Messages - KWKloeber

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 227
Main Message Board / Re: Finding the waterline
« on: September 26, 2019, 12:54:20 PM »

waterline -Any suggestions?

muffler - about 12 litres.

John, you could simply take the seawater pump inlet hose off (or sink drain hose) and see at what height seawater just starts to overtop the hose end.

I think the muffler is closer to 13L, but that's from measurements not from putting water into it.  Why do you want to know that volume?


Main Message Board / Re: oil hose kit?
« on: September 26, 2019, 12:30:58 PM »

Not necessarily - one could surely put a wrench (or wench) on the drain plug to keep it from turning while unscrewing the banjo bolt. 
But is there any reason to not change the gasket when changing crush washers?  Maybe THAT'S your leak source.


Main Message Board / Re: Shroud covers
« on: September 26, 2019, 08:50:30 AM »
Remember you can also always put a wrap of rigging tape around the turnbuckle and exposed cotter.
Or if you tune to conditions often, use the hook n loop type turnbuckle pins (you can make them yourself and not buy the expensive ones.)


Main Message Board / Re: MaineSail or other SmartGauge SG100 guru question
« on: September 25, 2019, 08:56:17 PM »

When in doubt, RTFM!   :clap

Stu - it's elementary that TFMs/instructions can *sometimes* be abbreviated and (imagine this?) not show EVERY scenario found on a boat.

RTFM (as in how to hook up a multi battery bank)?  You mean TFM manual that's WRONG about where to make the connections?  Is that TFM?

So its also elementary that when you only RTFM and ask no questions, it's possible to end up doing things wrong (again I used "you" euphemistically - I realize you've never opined how to do anything differently than how it's described in TFM.)

BTW, not only is the manual effed up --  so is the Balmer tech** --- who says that the SG can't be used on a system with a selector switch -- yet BOTH Rod and Merlin state that it CAN.  So, again, it's elementary that swallowing only what you read/hear can get you into instead of keeping you out of trouble (again euphemistically "you".)

** The techie who also said that the SG-200 cannot be used on a system w/a selector switch.

Main Message Board / MaineSail or (an)other SmartGauge guru question
« on: September 25, 2019, 07:04:20 PM »
Rod, apologies, I meant the SG - I called it the SG100 (I suppose they wouldn't know it was a 100 until there was a 200, 'eh?)

For clarity (brevity?) (or confusion?) I showed only the Batt 1 wire from the SG (I realize the negative has to be connected.)

So, given that it's the SG I hear you saying (even tho the top/bottom scenarios are functionally equivalent) that the SG won't read correctly on the bottom configuration.  That begs the question (since you tested and are most familiar with it) WHY-- the SG knows it's reading off a heavy cable, instead of directly from the battery post?

Would the third scenario work correctly, since the SG is directly on the bank posts?

Thank you Rod

Main Message Board / Re: Tachometer
« on: September 24, 2019, 09:02:46 AM »
It helps us if you Post your boat and engine info when asking for help.

The only easy fix is if the problem is caused by a bad connection.
Are you charging properly?  If questionable it could be an alternator problem.

If the alt is ok, it could be the tach signal wire (connection/terminals) from the alt A/C post to the tach. Itís typically a gray wire but itís anybodyís guess what color a specific engine has. Or the signal connection or 12v+ or negative at the tach end.

If the tach itself is faulty itís toast- itís not serviceable.

Main Message Board / MaineSail or other SmartGauge SG100 guru question
« on: September 23, 2019, 09:08:45 PM »
Are the top and bottom scenarios equivalent? 
i.e., Will the SG100 work correctly in both setups?

Main Message Board / Re: Balmar ARS-5 Voltage Regulator Power Source
« on: September 23, 2019, 08:46:08 PM »
Ron - With the key on or off, the oil pressure sw is connected to GROUND (thru the switch) it is not supplied 12 volts.

Mike - the only way I could see the reg working that way is if you had a BAD oil alarm, and the faulty alarm passed a full 12 volts to the ground (S) terminal on the alarm -- so when there was oil pressure, the switch would be open, so the wire to the switch would have 12v. 
With no oil pressure, the oil switch would be closed and so would dead short the circuit to the engine ground (and the reg would see near zero volts.)

Main Message Board / Re: GPSmap 172c --- GPS Replacement Options
« on: September 19, 2019, 07:39:29 PM »

Kenó that is why I mentioned using a GPs plugin/dongle device for iPad such as a Garmin or Bad Elf add-on.

[something else that I didn't realize - When you use an iPhone or iPad to geotag a photo, the accuracy is about 100 feet (about 30 meters), because Apple only stores GPS data down to the nearest second in latitude and longitude -]

AhhhSo -- I didn't take it that you were referring to the WiFi (only) pads.  Just wanted to peeps who might be considering a WiFi only, realize that after all that, they'd need tpo plunk down another bill after the fact to get gps.

The last time I looked into this, I recall there were issues with the iPad (or maybe it was specific apps) being able to use or accept any old tethered external gps - hopefully, that is much better now.


Main Message Board / Re: Burnt alternator excite wire
« on: September 17, 2019, 08:08:05 PM »

Did you check the cost of rebuilding the stock Moto alt?  It's usually pretty reasonable and you'd have a genuine.

Main Message Board / Re: GPSmap 172c --- GPS Replacement Options
« on: September 17, 2019, 07:56:54 PM »

use an iPad as a chart plotter.

Just an FYI.  You have to be careful about iPads and GPS.  (Unless Apple has changed its ways) only the cell-enabled iPads have an internal GPS chip.  The WiFi (only) iPads don't -- they use wifi networks and cell towers (even w/o an active cell contract) to determine the "gps" location, so it can at times be very approximate.  Even the iPads w/ gps chips initially use WiFi and cell to get the first (approximate) location (recall that your gps takes a while to lock onto enough satellites to start displaying a good location. So when first turned on, an iPad couldn't possibly lock onto GPS as quickly as it appears to find the location -- it's fooling us.)

Main Message Board / Re: Balmar ARS-5 Voltage Regulator Power Source
« on: September 17, 2019, 06:41:48 PM »
Mike and Stu,

Mike, what is the "brown" wire for, nominal 12v power to the Balmer?

I don't see any way your Balmar is "connected to" the oil pressure switch, and ever worked
There is no 12v power to the oil switch on the XP (and M-25 - Stu the oil pressure circuits and switch are identical on the 25 and XP **.) 

The 12v power goes to the ALARM, the (blue) harness wire to the oil pressure switch is a GROUND wire, that completes contact with the battery negative (hopefully, thru the engine) when the pressure goes < ~5-7 psi.  Above 5-7 psi there is no ground connection to the blue wire.

If the BROWN wire is for 12v power to the Balmar, it may be connected to the alternator FIELD EXCITE (purple) harness wire, which is powered when the key switch is in the "I" (a/k/a, "on", "run", or "ignition") position (the "I" terminal on the switch, opposed to the spring-loaded "S" (sometimes used for "start", sometimes "preheat", sometimes just dead, sometimes there's only a 2-position switch) terminal, if you have a 3-position switch.)


** the oil switch circuit is the same on the 25, 35, and XP, and should never see a full 12v -- the oil switch only completes a ground path from the alarm "S" - "switch" (ground) terminal.  +12v power goes to the "+" terminal of the alarm. 
The change to the 2-wire oil pressure switch and the revised circuit was made starting w/ the "A" engines and of course is on the "B" engines.

Main Message Board / Re: oil hose kit?
« on: September 14, 2019, 07:57:17 PM »
p/n 030290 - I have no clue from where I copied the other number!! :cry4`

Fact of the matter is, anyone who works on Westerbeke diesels whoís worth any salt would know where to look up the part - and see if itís available - and order it for his customer.  :shock:

Just by the way also - all the parts manuals are in the c34 techwiki site (<Manuals>) so if you need anything else itís easy to verify if itís a good part or NLA. Typically the NLA parts are the Kubota ones - the Wb add-ons are typically available.


Main Message Board / Re: oil hose kit?
« on: September 14, 2019, 02:59:15 PM »

The yard guy and/or both the supplier are, technically speaking, full of crap.

The oil drain kit for the XP is p/n 200373.  That's the drain bolt/banjo/washers/hose/plug
The crush washer is p/n 17038.
Unless the hose and/or banjo are bad, all you need is two crush washers. $10
If the hose is bad you could get a local hydraulic shop to duplicate it. $15?
At last resort, you could replace the whole shebang. $140 

The parts can be ordered direct from, or your regional distributor is in MA.
Hansen is VERY good. 
Or here's your local dealers:


Catalina 34s Parts & Pieces For Sale or Wanted / Balmar Smart Gauge SG100
« on: September 08, 2019, 07:12:22 PM »
If anyone is interested in a Balmar Smart Gauge to monitor your bank, PM me (or preferably via the email link
<to the left).

This is the SG100, the simple gauge to install, not the SG200 that does have more bells and whistles and works off installing a shunt (more difficult to install.)

New, in box, never installed -- Make offer!


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