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The wiring on Shamrock is in a short pipe, 8"? high, then all sealed with sealer, maybe silicon but not sure.

It's best to seal the top of the wiring conduit using "electrician's putty," available at a big box.   (It's kinda the consistency of plumbers putty.)
It seals permanently but is easily removed if necessary.

There's a winch on the starboard side of the boom.  Is this standard?

reefing hook on the mast

Please post a picture when asking about oddball items. 

Help us to help you!

A reef hook on the MAST? This does not sound right.
The manual shows the running rigging layout.

Make sure both plates are flat and not cupped from previous over tightening.
While you are "in there anyway" if your Hx isn't bonded suggest you run a #14 green to a good engine ground point. A 3/8" lug fits the end bolt.

Gotcha.  Thanks!

Thank you for that info!

Hey Alex!

I'm wondering on your install why you chose 400 and not LMR240?

-Ken

I removed my Y valve, but could physically discharge directly to the thru hull.

Noah the new interface looks GREAT and works much better on my iPhone X browser.

One annoying item I noticed and wonder if this can be "adjusted" -- the text/links to the C34 home page, etc, are nearly unreadable against the dark blue header.   Could their size be enlarged, icons/images be added, or the text colors changed to white, or the header be changed to light blue?

Ben

My experience is that the plan may change once the grinding starts.  I thought I had a simple smile fix -- but once I ground off the fairing and deeper, I found about a third of the length of the keel bedding (polyester mung) had turned into junk like saturated drywall.  It just hadn't made its way out into and cracked the fairing yet.  So I ended up dropping and rebedding the keel -- Gougeon Bros recommended 5200 to bed it, which is what I used.  Then I wrapped the joint with epoxy saturated, 4" biaxial fiberglass and faired over that. 

THANK YOU!

A note for future travelers down this rabbit hole: If your tach suddenly stops working, check your alternator!

I've said it several times before and will again.  First thing is to put an AC multimeter on both the Alternator tach ("AC") terminal and on the Tach input (S terminal.)  Most diesel alternators need like 7 volts AC to drive the tach.

They probably rebuilt your Alt for $30 in parts.

BTW, if you install a new Tach and want to, you can advance the hourmeter to match the engine hours. 

1. Hose barbs are tapered thread. You don't use thread lock on pipe joints, besides thread lock (super glue) would be useless against a teflon surface (ptfe tape). Use teflon tape or pipe dope or actually plumbers sometimes use both when it's a difficult thread under pressure, but you don't need both for this.

2. Don't use a petroleum-based product.  Use ptfe - like SuperLube Gel (which is a required staple on every vessel.)
Or Lanakote or similar slippery gel.

Guenter

I doubt that it is from the pan gasket.  The oil level in te sump is below that and there's no pressure to push oil past the gasket.  I'd think that it would need to be a seriously obvious compromise of the gasket to do that.

Had you laid down a pad to tell exactly where it is dripping from?  Leaking Oil can travel and drip in another location!

Help us help us you!  There are no left and right on a boat! 
Maybe a photo showing where you think it's dripping from?  Or a very good description.

-Ken

"These were the mounts from Catalina direct. Mine was drilled cockeyed."

Noah,
I took "mine" as "the ones I received."
Good chance that I misinterpreted that?

  These were the mounts from Catalina Direct. Mine was drilled cockeyed.

George

Those engine isolators (I won't even get into the modern bastardization of the terms "engine" vs "motor") are directly out of Westerbeke parts bins and there's no question in my mind that what you received was typical (for these days) Westerbeke crap.  They had sold me so many bad parts over what were the final 10 years (before I gave up supplying Wb parts as a Wb dealer.)  I've had to return probably a dozen parts, ranging from $50 to $200 because they were defective in manufacturing or finishing.   I could show photos of nightmare drilling, threading, tapping, etc., that would make anyone's blood boil.  The last instance was an exhaust flange that was so poorly threaded that a nipple couldn't screw in -- I had to get one at a different Wb distributor (who told me I was crazy and didn't know what the h*ll I was talking about -- until I challenged him to go right then and pull the flanges in stock, and take them out of the bags/inspect them.  I was lucky and was able to claim the only good flange out of 5 in his stock (with an apology from the distributor.))   I gave up -- between covering the shipping costs from customers back to Wb, replacements shipped to me, then shipped to customers (Wb would not cover any s/h cost and would not drop ship to the customer) it was a losing proposition to supply parts.
At the time my stocking distributor relinquished the distributorship because of the junk replacement parts!!