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Messages - KWKloeber

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 236
Main Message Board / Re: Charging wire from alternator
« on: Today at 03:01:46 PM »
What engine/year?
Has any major reworking been done?
Does your cockpit panel have a voltmeter or an ammeter?

Main Message Board / Re: Fuel Guage Not Working
« on: Today at 02:53:47 PM »
Disconnect the pink wire from the gauge S terminal and test the gauge. The Teleflex gauge troubleshooting instructions are on the tech wiki - “Engine” > “Electrical”

Once you determine whether the gauge is good, reconnect the pink wire and disconnect it from the sender and repeat the same test. That will tell you whether the circuit is good.

Lastly you can measure the resistance to ground at the sender terminal for the pink wire. The values are APPROX 33ohm full and 240 empty.

There is a separate Parts Manual for the B(C) engines that shows the Catalina wiring standard.   I’ll find and upload that in the next couple days. 
The Catalina schematic (and also westerbeke schematic) is also in the Ops Manual and Technical Manual for the B engines - on the techwiki website (“Manuals”)

I *THINK• that the engine model number and serial number (Universal’s s/n, not Kubota s/n) is engraved on a plate on the side of the exhaust manifold. Let me know if that’s not so.

A 35BC is a 35B(C). Check and there *should* be a tag with the engine model number - on the B series I believe it’s on the valve cover or the top of the exhaust manifold, behind the coolant filler/pressure cap. Maybe Ron can verify that.

Confused - if the alarm works, how is the driver leaving the key on while sailing??!!??

The circuit energizes the alt field, to wake up the alternator at low RPMs and start charging. Newer alts are a one-wire (output only) and are “self exciting” (no field excite needed.)

PS: Re your key -

(I presume she was NOT repowered?)

What is on w/the key *should be*:
     Gauges and their lights
     Alternator field excite circuit
     Engine alarm*

*You *should* get the alarm without the engine running (no oil pressure.)  Do you get the alarm when you first turn on the key (cold engine)?

On A- and B-series engines the lift pump *should* run only when:
    - there is oil pressure (safety shut down that typically doesn’t work) or
    - the glow plugs are activated (bypasses the safety feature.)

The above presumes that Westerbeke used the “Catalina wiring standard”, opposed to the normal Westerbeke schematic - they are sometimes identified by a (C) suffix (M-xxA(C) or M-xxB(C).)

There are known issues w/ those convoluted, back-a$$wards, SAE (not marine) A and B wiring harnesses that can screw up the alarm and/or the lift pump operating correctly.


I don’t know exactly which model teleflex tach that is, but if it’s like all others and other brands that I know of, the HM advances when it receives the A/C signal. In other words the HM doesn’t advance with 12v only to it. You can verify that by watching the 1/00 digit (advances every 36 sec) w/ just the key on. Please let me know if I’m incorrect on that model.


Little known fact - peeps replacing an HM/tach think they are stuck doing math to know actual engine hours, but they can be advanced to the current hours.

Main Message Board / Re: Which Exhaust Riser to order from CD?
« on: July 08, 2020, 08:00:13 PM »

Make sure on the measurements you’re looking at apples and apples. The CD site shows on the drawings where the measurements are taken from/to.


Main Message Board / Re: Thru Stanchion Vent for Head Issue
« on: July 08, 2020, 06:16:32 PM »

The vented stanchion is a tube within a tube.  The inner tube (the hose connects to) extends up inside to below the lower lifeline thru-hole.  Was the stanchion damaged/ bent so that the inner tube is now against the outter?  Also check below to see if the vent tube is loose and has become detached from the base (it goes thru the base and is (or yours used to be) welded to the base.

It’s a terrible, inefficient venting system, vapor has to go up the inner tube and then down the stanchion to the low deck hole.

More than one thought 😎

Main Message Board / Re: Water heater leak at safety valve
« on: July 06, 2020, 11:16:12 PM »

 I would try and fix the root problem.

A relief valve isn't supposed to blow at normal water temps.  Fix it (the problem. not the symptom)  Are you sure it's relieving, or just leaky at dock and motoring?

If you have a leaky potable water pump or one that won't cycle off -- do yah simply keep cycling the breaker whenever you want water? 

Main Message Board / Re: exhaust riser and manifold for mark 2 1997
« on: July 06, 2020, 11:10:27 PM »

exhaust manifold adaptor ... leaking exhaust. 


I presume he's referring to the exhaust flange?  (removing and fixing the leak, presumably could be as "easy" as a new gasket.)
The unfortunate reality is that the vast majority of time/effort/lost skin on knuckles/cost is getting the old parts apart w/o ruining them (if that's even possible,) and if new studs are needed and/or if the flange can be reused or needs replacing -- so that simply fixing that leak and not replacing the whole shebang seems a waste.  e.g., How many years will it be before the riser needs to be replaced (if indeed it's only rusty and not about to fail.)  Make sure the new gasket goes on facing correctly -- on backward, you dump all your coolant out the exhaust (and need to start all over.)


Main Message Board / Re: Universal M25 diesel problems
« on: July 03, 2020, 08:59:38 PM »

is the discharge normal if so is there supposed to be a vent hose attached and if so where does it got to?  Also, when I put my finger over it, pressure builds up.


Look at pg 12 of your M25 parts manual that I know you have downloaded and keep handy.  It shows the vent hose (which OEM just hangs into the bilge.)

There shouldn't he a huge amt of oil/gunk come out at any one time but over time it will and will stink up the bilge/boat.  This has been covered many times on the forum if you do a search.

Yes the will be a slight pressure but if you have excessive pressure/oil/gunk you could have excessive ring blowby (check the engine compression.)

If you check the tech wiki site under >>engine<< there are a few suggestions how to route the crankcase vent to the air intake.  Below is mine.  Another way not discussed is to drill. tap, and use a hose barb on the intake manifold.  The XPB has a knockout on the intake manifold to accept the crankcase vent hose.


Main Message Board / Re: Alternator Belt Tensioner Home Made
« on: July 02, 2020, 06:37:34 PM »

The M25 and M35 have the identical front ends.
Check out the parts manual for both engines on the wiki site. Under “manuals.”

Main Message Board / Re: Another transmission question
« on: July 02, 2020, 06:32:30 PM »
The tranny damper plate self destructing.....   SPROING.
Can you hear springs being tossed about?  Listen with a mechanics stethoscope?

Main Message Board / Re: Rust stains on gel coat & non-skid
« on: July 01, 2020, 08:05:35 PM »
You could try CLR.
Or oxalic acid (paint Dept) which I THINK is the base of the FSR gel.

Main Message Board / Re: Transmission failure
« on: June 30, 2020, 05:22:48 PM »

What are the particulars - model # or MPS item # etc?

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