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Messages - KWKloeber

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 296
Main Message Board / Re: Oberdorfer Lip Seal Substitute?
« on: Yesterday at 12:46:30 PM »
Non comprendo senor
Is there a reason not to use the genuine Oberdorfer replacement part?
Ob p/n 5463, should be in stock at Depco.


What I mean is, above the hole looks like some sort of ďgasket?Ē where the bottom has been torn off.  Am I hallucinating?
If its sort of a gasket it it just in a seam, or is something (door?) sealing against it?
The close up is too close to tell whatís there.

Randy what's that above the gap?

Main Message Board / Re: Stubborn Waterline Stains
« on: May 17, 2022, 12:54:31 PM »
Purdy and shiny!!!


You need to isolate from where the noise originates -- you can use a hardwood dowel stick in your ear (putting in the whole dowel sideways doesn't work so well ;-) and put an earplug in the other one.  Or a cheap mechanic's stethoscope from Harbor Freight and sound out everything from the alternator to the engine gear cover to the stringers to the water pump to the shaft/tranny area and hull to see where the whine originates and is being transferred to where.

An alternator can whine pretty loudly -- a bearing that's going bad can do it -- as can a bad coolant pump bearing so you might check those first.

Good luck searching!

The opinion of my WB distributor is the best belt for our engine is a "top cog" (not a bottom cog if that's what you have.) 
Dayco Top Cog belt.  Take your old one and match up the correct size.  Advance Auto carried them but the size may need to be ordered-in.  Better heat dissipation, better contact, less dust, less wear, less squeal, longer life.  What's not to like about that?
If they have a Dayco GOLD Top Cog get that one.

There's a discussion on the 101 topics thread on how to tension the belt -- both by using a tool and "by feel."

Main Message Board / Re: Replace Exhaust Riser?
« on: May 16, 2022, 08:43:03 PM »
Steve is a reasonable source for ABA clamps w/o the marine tariff; and Steveís a good guy. 

In BC you probably wonít see more than 160 (ďget up to full op tempĒ) with the lower temp Tstat (freshwater boats can use the higher Tstat.)  Itís just a matter of transferring BTUs from a small flow to a big tank of water, and of course, depends on the ambient temp of the water! 
But at cruising rpm thereís greater volume of coolant (heatant?!) going thru the WH so the water remains in contact w/ hotter coolant throughout the length of the WH coolant coil.  In other words, say the input is 160 and after transferring heat the return is 130.  With high flow the input may still be 160 but the return might be 155 so each minute more BTUs are transferred to the water. (Those arenít actual numbers! just concepts.)

Main Message Board / Re: Replace Exhaust Riser?
« on: May 16, 2022, 04:52:42 PM »
>> T I wouldnít go in there and change them.<<<

Actually (I didnít want to throw out an arrow but) I would where subject to a wide temp swing (eg, Hx and exh.)
Even tho the hump hose may be more forgiving.

(Or use T bolts on the exhaust.)

Iíve seen broken M25 Hx mounting clamps due to the expansion (thatís why Seakamp supplies T-bolts for its M25XP Hx brackets.)

Main Message Board / Re: Replace Exhaust Riser?
« on: May 16, 2022, 04:10:31 PM »

Thatís purdy!!

That begs the question, are you getting hot water now?

Consider using ABA or AWAB hose clamps for any future work!

Bravo 👏 🙌 🎉 👍 👌

Main Message Board / Re: Replace Exhaust Riser?
« on: May 16, 2022, 09:16:15 AM »
Thx Noah.  Our ďupĒ is probably not much more than that.  The hoses enter at the bottom of the locker, basically just above hull level (slopes up from the engine of course.)  So Iíd think they are comparable.  Your engine connections are higher than ours ( stuffed underneath a seat height) Tthe mk-II WH was moved onboard and lowered.  Iíd think any ďupĒ pocket could potentially be problematic.

In our wheelhouse we donít have the tips to fill/hand pump that loop but would be a good thing to add.

Main Message Board / Re: Replace Exhaust Riser?
« on: May 16, 2022, 04:33:54 AM »

Did you check the Hx end cap for a leak?

ďOurĒ problem is that our WH sits high in the cockpit sail locker so air accumulates there and is difficult to move out of the high loop.  From what I understand about your hoses they run down to the sole then up to the WH?  So that could create the same sort of air trap.  Air fights like heck from ďgoing down.

How long was the WH hooked up w/ engine running after purging that loop?

Main Message Board / Re: Replace Exhaust Riser?
« on: May 15, 2022, 01:17:01 PM »
Make sure the Tstat is opening.  Is the hose hot to the exh manifold?

Good return from the Hx?  Hot water in the 7/8Ē hose to the coolant pump?

Are you getting good seawater flow?  Hot water in the hose to the injection wye?

The coolant pump can get an air lock but it sounds as if you have coolant circulating.

You can eliminate one variable by disconnecting the WH hoses and inserting a short bypass hose, then reattach once you know the beast is cooling properly.

We have a particular issue w/ the plumbing on the C30 mk-I due to the WH location and burp similar to how Noah describes.  Leaving the pressure cap off we run up the rpm for a while; idle down. Repeat this pumping/surging several times to bubble air out of the pressure cap while topping off there.


Ok, itís the same as mine but they arenít intricate, just two halves of a straight cylinder. I went to Curbell Plastics, a commercial supplier whose warehouse happened to be at the same location. The very helpful guy picked out a length of the same plastic rod of the same OD from the scrap bin - N/C.   I just cut it in half and fashioned what I needed myself.  They also had a shop that could fabricate whatever to spec but I didnít need to.

Mcmaster Carr might carry the rod raw material if you or a local shop/friend can fashion a replacement half.

Long shot but call Rig-Rite 401-739-1140 and/or Ed at ZephyrWerks 360-385-2720. R-R has a custom fab service.  Ed is a really good guy and specializes in sheaves but heís told me that he can machine just about anything in plastic.  Super quick turnaround.

Let me know if anything connects.


I dont have a Hood but mine has something that looks similar.
Is it a hard dense plastic or ceramic perhaps?

Main Message Board / Re: Glow plug replacement
« on: May 09, 2022, 10:32:53 PM »

VERY simpleÖ. Preheat 30 secs (unless you have a preheat solenoid then 10 secs); feel each plug - if you can constantly hold onto a plug itís not heating enough.  See if you feel a noticeable difference to the suspect plug.

Measure the resistance from tip to engine ground of each plug (at least the suspect one) or as many as you can get the wire off.  See if the suspect is noticeably lower than the others (or zero -shorted, or very high -bad winding.

Being new to it, even if you systematically replace parts J.I.C. itís always better to know the condition of what youíre replacing if thereís an issue. Otherwise you might NEVER locate the root cause of a problem and never make more than one related change/replacement at a time.

Main Message Board / Re: Thermostat Bypass
« on: May 09, 2022, 02:28:15 PM »

Iíve never dealt with EG/PG issues and know only what Iíd do when thereís something questionable - overkill it LOL!

Make sure itís all out of the block and coolant pump as itís going to be by gravity. 

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