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Messages - KWKloeber

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 228
1
Main Message Board / Re: Water Heater Question
« on: Today at 06:01:55 PM »
BA

My '84 had the square, bolted version, and in 2005 I bought the new version for a different purpose.  When ShurFlo made the change - I dunno? 

I believe the current style cv is rated @ 100 psi.

Presumably, the fittings are rated at least as high as the T&P safety valve?   I dunno. 
The nylon barbed fittings I've used are rated 150 to 200 psi.

The cv rating is an issue only when it becomes an issue -- do we ignore a weak point?  I guess I just have a preventive attitude.  To me, my not addressing it and buying the metal cv -- would be like replacing a leaky T&P with a plug.  Hell, the T&P hasn't blown in all these years so why should I spend the extra money to replace it?  I only need a safety factor when I NEED it, and I can't predict when.  My luck is less than stellar but I wouldn't run out tomorrow and change the cv -- but why not add it to the to-do list just to have the additional insurance?

2
Main Message Board / Re: Water Heater Question
« on: Today at 03:23:35 PM »
The check valve is checking whether the WH is on AC or heated by the engine. But of course it would explode ONLY if on AC - the engine wouldnít get the WH hot enough to develop the pressure.

3
Main Message Board / Re: Water Heater Question
« on: Today at 12:47:09 PM »
Stu

Weíre talking about the cv on the cold water supply to the WH, which prevents backflow from the WH back into the cold water supply lines. It doesnít see excessive pressure unless the WH goes heywire and over pressure (which the T&P safety valve would relieve.)  But that model ShurFlo cv is rated lower than the T&P, so it can explode before the T&P ever opens to relieve the pressure.
Per the email ShurFlo said theyíve ďseen it happenĒ which is why they donít approve that cv for a WH.

4
Main Message Board / Re: Water Heater Question
« on: Today at 09:59:41 AM »

I've had one of those "crappy" check valves in my water supply under the galley sink for 32 years on my boat, still works just fine.


Ya, itís presumably only an issue if the WH over pressures, and then (if I understand ShurFlo correctly) it could explode before the T&P safety valve releases.  The 100 psi cv will pop before the 150 psi T&P.

Theyíre not crappy, just not meant for the purpose it was installed, then doesnít stand up when itís needed.

Interestingly and related, new residential WH installations/replacements now require an in-line expansion tank to soak up the thermal expansion.

5
Main Message Board / Re: Water Heater Question
« on: Today at 08:08:32 AM »
BA

Iíll submit that youíre using up too many brain cells over something that plumbers have figured out long ago.  :D 
The WH has a temperature & pressure relief valve set at 150 psi. The shark bite cv is 200 psi and if you use 1/2Ē copper stubs you can warm/expand the pvc water hose to fit over them.

6
Main Message Board / Re: Water Heater Question
« on: Yesterday at 11:07:12 PM »
ba

You have (some) good questions - I don't design the valves or any fittings so, unfortunately, you're asking the wrong source.  You might want to contact ShurFlo on the CV or Seaward (Whale) for the WH.

I didn't recommend the Camco kit -- in the context of the original message, I simply pointed to a reasonable-cost seller of the kit that he found at West Marine.  I don't have a bypass (I do not need one as I use a different set up.)

I see no reason why you couldn't buy quality ball valves and make your own (available space may be a limitation.)  But, you don't need to necessarily locate the bypass at the tank (so long as the hoses/WH will still drain.)

Was the Camco kit suitable or restricted flow?

CTY has never installed anything sub-standard (like PVC fittings below the waterline?; or on my boat, a npt threaded, schedule 40, PVC cap on the straight-thread thru hull [on the unused head waste direct discharge]?) 
In defense, I doubt that anyone knew that the ShurFlo cv is not rated for WH use.




Sent: Tue Feb 7, 2012
To: Ken Kloeber
Subject: RE: Shurflow check valve

I understood, water heaters always have thermal expansion our check valve is not designed to withstand the water heater's thermal expansion. The check valve will break in half I have seen it.

Pedro Silva
Shurflo Customer Service


7
Main Message Board / Re: Water Heater Question
« on: November 12, 2019, 05:05:14 PM »
BA,

Itís not that a CV doesnít belong there - it does (on the cold water supply to the WH.) It's simply that THAT particular CV isnít (according to ShurFlo) designed to withstand the pressure that could develop.

Jabsco makes an RV/marine Cv that is approved for WH use.

I bought a SharkBite hot water Cv (home depot online) to adapt to the 1/2Ē hose.

Be sure to get a bypass that doesn't restrict the flow. Many do.
I had posted earlier this year about that (with pcs.)

8
Main Message Board / Re: Water Heater Question
« on: November 12, 2019, 01:46:54 PM »
Just a heads up that (Iíve posted it before), according to an email from ShurFlo that CV is NOT supposed to be used on a WH.
It can explode.
Thereís an older version black ShurFlo CV with the halves bolted together ( not plastic welded ) that was approved for WH use.

9
Main Message Board / Re: Hour meter
« on: November 09, 2019, 06:53:53 AM »
Ken

To the AO terminal? That would be hot whenever the battery selector switch has a battery connected, no?
Iíd wire an HM to the alt field excite circuit (purple harness wire,) which is hot when the key is on.  Or to the fuel pump feed wire.


Dwayne
Many body mfgrs put the HM and or fuel gauge at the nav panel.

-ken

10
Main Message Board / Re: Plumbing of hot water heater in MkII models
« on: November 07, 2019, 08:35:54 PM »
I'm not sure what you mean by up or downstream -- the WH is not plumbed in series -- it is a parallel loop (sort of.)  There is a check valve on the hot water side of the WH so that water from the loop flows only TO the potable system and not BACK to the WH tank.

Why not download the Owners Manual that has the plumbing diagram?

11
Main Message Board / Re: Alarm Buzzer Chirping
« on: November 07, 2019, 11:03:59 AM »
Ken

Do you have an oil pressure gauge - if not you have a low oil pressure switch (not a pressure sender.)

The B series are particularly problematic to troubleshoot the alarm and oftentimes end up nowhere.  IIWMB Iíd replace the switch, taking special attention to the connection. It may solve it but would be good insurance anyway.

The Wb harness is untinned, type 2 STIFF SAE, not type 3 flexible tinned marine wire, and vibration can break off one or both switch terminal tabs. Itís a known weak point.
So- Suggest you crimp on pigtails of Type 3 wire or carefully secure the harness so there is NO movement possible between the harness leads and the switch terminals.


12
Main Message Board / Re: Lithium Ion Jump Start Battery Thoughts
« on: November 07, 2019, 09:59:08 AM »
Mike,

I would look at the specs for a group 27 marine battery and compare the cranking amps and reserve capacity to what the jump starter has.

I too have a HF jump starter but found that they simply donít last. The first one I returned within the extended warranty - it would not hold a charge. It was a 3 in 1, the store said the 4 in 1s are better but get many returns- but I just went with a replacement. The lead acid batteries (gel?) are so crappy that I basically need to keep it on a constant a trickle charge in order to have it available if I need it (I have an AC outlet in the van.). One jump start on a lawn tractor battery this week and the charge status was showing orange, not green. Itís one of those horror freight items that IME that warrants caution.
Recommend you get an extended warranty on any LiIon one so you can put it thru itís paces over a season (and then hope it lasts beyond a year.)

13
Main Message Board / Re: Yellow Fuse Holder in POSI FLO Fuel Pump
« on: October 30, 2019, 06:25:22 PM »
Stu
As fuse holders go, those with glass fuses leave much to be desired.
Iíd crimp on an ATC or ATM holder that has a weather cap. Amazon has them with tinned wire/contacts or I believe West carries ancor ones (but may be w/o the cover.)
You can have it by Wednesday.   

I have 50 or so of them - Iíd gladly send one but it would take a year and a day to arrive.

14
Main Message Board / Re: water in bilge
« on: October 29, 2019, 12:53:36 PM »
Pole lift with the exit installed upside down?  Nah too high for that.
Internal spin halyard exit?

15
Main Message Board / Re: water in bilge
« on: October 29, 2019, 09:47:31 AM »
Whereabouts on the mast?  Side of leading edge?

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