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Messages - KWKloeber

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Main Message Board / Re: GPSmap 172c --- GPS Replacement Options
« on: September 19, 2019, 07:39:29 PM »

Kenó that is why I mentioned using a GPs plugin/dongle device for iPad such as a Garmin or Bad Elf add-on.

[something else that I didn't realize - When you use an iPhone or iPad to geotag a photo, the accuracy is about 100 feet (about 30 meters), because Apple only stores GPS data down to the nearest second in latitude and longitude -]

AhhhSo -- I didn't take it that you were referring to the WiFi (only) pads.  Just wanted to peeps who might be considering a WiFi only, realize that after all that, they'd need tpo plunk down another bill after the fact to get gps.

The last time I looked into this, I recall there were issues with the iPad (or maybe it was specific apps) being able to use or accept any old tethered external gps - hopefully, that is much better now.


Main Message Board / Re: Burnt alternator excite wire
« on: September 17, 2019, 08:08:05 PM »

Did you check the cost of rebuilding the stock Moto alt?  It's usually pretty reasonable and you'd have a genuine.

Main Message Board / Re: GPSmap 172c --- GPS Replacement Options
« on: September 17, 2019, 07:56:54 PM »

use an iPad as a chart plotter.

Just an FYI.  You have to be careful about iPads and GPS.  (Unless Apple has changed its ways) only the cell-enabled iPads have an internal GPS chip.  The WiFi (only) iPads don't -- they use wifi networks and cell towers (even w/o an active cell contract) to determine the "gps" location, so it can at times be very approximate.  Even the iPads w/ gps chips initially use WiFi and cell to get the first (approximate) location (recall that your gps takes a while to lock onto enough satellites to start displaying a good location. So when first turned on, an iPad couldn't possibly lock onto GPS as quickly as it appears to find the location -- it's fooling us.)

Main Message Board / Re: Balmar ARS-5 Voltage Regulator Power Source
« on: September 17, 2019, 06:41:48 PM »
Mike and Stu,

Mike, what is the "brown" wire for, nominal 12v power to the Balmer?

I don't see any way your Balmar is "connected to" the oil pressure switch, and ever worked
There is no 12v power to the oil switch on the XP (and M-25 - Stu the oil pressure circuits and switch are identical on the 25 and XP **.) 

The 12v power goes to the ALARM, the (blue) harness wire to the oil pressure switch is a GROUND wire, that completes contact with the battery negative (hopefully, thru the engine) when the pressure goes < ~5-7 psi.  Above 5-7 psi there is no ground connection to the blue wire.

If the BROWN wire is for 12v power to the Balmar, it may be connected to the alternator FIELD EXCITE (purple) harness wire, which is powered when the key switch is in the "I" (a/k/a, "on", "run", or "ignition") position (the "I" terminal on the switch, opposed to the spring-loaded "S" (sometimes used for "start", sometimes "preheat", sometimes just dead, sometimes there's only a 2-position switch) terminal, if you have a 3-position switch.)


** the oil switch circuit is the same on the 25, 35, and XP, and should never see a full 12v -- the oil switch only completes a ground path from the alarm "S" - "switch" (ground) terminal.  +12v power goes to the "+" terminal of the alarm. 
The change to the 2-wire oil pressure switch and the revised circuit was made starting w/ the "A" engines and of course is on the "B" engines.

Main Message Board / Re: oil hose kit?
« on: September 14, 2019, 07:57:17 PM »
p/n 030290 - I have no clue from where I copied the other number!! :cry4`

Fact of the matter is, anyone who works on Westerbeke diesels whoís worth any salt would know where to look up the part - and see if itís available - and order it for his customer.  :shock:

Just by the way also - all the parts manuals are in the c34 techwiki site (<Manuals>) so if you need anything else itís easy to verify if itís a good part or NLA. Typically the NLA parts are the Kubota ones - the Wb add-ons are typically available.


Main Message Board / Re: oil hose kit?
« on: September 14, 2019, 02:59:15 PM »

The yard guy and/or both the supplier are, technically speaking, full of crap.

The oil drain kit for the XP is p/n 200373.  That's the drain bolt/banjo/washers/hose/plug
The crush washer is p/n 17038.
Unless the hose and/or banjo are bad, all you need is two crush washers. $10
If the hose is bad you could get a local hydraulic shop to duplicate it. $15?
At last resort, you could replace the whole shebang. $140 

The parts can be ordered direct from, or your regional distributor is in MA.
Hansen is VERY good. 
Or here's your local dealers:


Catalina 34s Parts & Pieces For Sale or Wanted / Balmar Smart Gauge SG100
« on: September 08, 2019, 07:12:22 PM »
If anyone is interested in a Balmar Smart Gauge to monitor your bank, PM me (or preferably via the email link
<to the left).

This is the SG100, the simple gauge to install, not the SG200 that does have more bells and whistles and works off installing a shunt (more difficult to install.)

New, in box, never installed -- Make offer!



That's not a "new" pump.  The cast brass covers are the oldest ones, then stamped covers, then the N202 series bodies w/ o-rings and stamped covers. 

The one in your hand may have been the original, leaking and replaced with the flat cover.  It may have been rebuilt and kept for a spare replacement.  Check the gasket, impeller, seals, and shaft -- if they look new I'd bet it was rebuilt. 

There's no pumping difference between the old 202M pumps and the N202M (just switched from the grocery bag paper gasket to the new N pump body w/ the o-ring.


PS, you look to have the "N" series Ob pump - if so, did you change the cover o-ring this season?  Or do you have the paper gasket type?


How old is that belt?  Itís toast - itís cracked and frayed and the laminated layers separating.  See pic.  Itís a Top Cog model (Dayco) which is excellent for our engines with small-diameter pulleys.

When have you checked the tension last? (E-Z!) Too loose, belt slip and wear, too tight and you can burn out the alt and water pump bearings.

A Clarification - Thatís your raw water or sea water pump, not raw water intake (which is on the hull).

The engine mount (technically an isolator) might have been toasted from the leaking pump.  Canít tell - is that scaling paint on the oil pan (from the leak)?

The engine belt nos. are on the TechWiki - you should always be carrying a spare! Note thereís some ďcontroversyĒ as to the belt length for the upgraded bracket. Your adjuster arm looks to be bottomed out, or near there.  See pic.

Itís BEST to take your old belt with you for sizing and get one slightly smaller than your stretched one cuz thereís no adjustment remaining.  I get the Top Cog @ Advance Auto but thereís likely other sources.

Also the the alt may be misaligned - better than average chance of that - see RCís article. Note about bolt sizes and shins and adjustment washers etc.
(The article isnít on Rodís new website).

Looks like you have a slight oil pan leak as well? (Banjo?)

Iím not being judgmental, everyone has their own abilities and reasons, but that engine is calling out for help. It can become a real costly outcome if not loved and taken care of  -  boat engines need more love than auto engines.  :love:

Main Message Board / Re: Water Filter Part
« on: September 02, 2019, 12:45:27 PM »
How tall is the cartridge?

Main Message Board / Re: Fixed portlight material, thickness, and tint
« on: August 28, 2019, 12:03:17 PM »

IIRC there has been a number of posts in the past about replacing the fixed windows - do a search for good tips on doing it.

Main Message Board / Re: Does anyone know what this is?
« on: August 28, 2019, 11:59:46 AM »
Does your boom swivel or is it fixed with the pinned gooseneck casting?

Main Message Board / Re: Shroud covers
« on: August 28, 2019, 11:56:36 AM »
If they are oversized theyíll roll with the sail. But I davy jonesíd mine long ago as they were a harborer of mold  mildew and gunk.

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