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My boat formerly had a dodger but didn't come with the actual canvas.  Last spring I noticed some of the attachment posts were loose so I tightened them down.  Turns out they were intentionally loose because the screw point is too long and chewed up the gelcoat on my hatch after I tightened it. 

Good grief!

Ya'd think the intelligent thing woulda been to either grind down the screw points (as the factory did on mine that hold trim on one side of a teak bulkhead so they don't poke thru) or put a trim washer under the head —- versus leaving loose fittings.

Some things yah find simply make your head rattle.

Just think of it as an early warning entry horn!

Be cautious that it might mean more than simply a sliding/rubbing issue and it could be caused by a screw or the seahood interfering with and damaging the companionway hatch.

To finish off this thread I drilled out the inboard holes the depth from the top of the traveler track to the cabin ceiling in my boat is 7 3/4" so with the supplied 10" bolt I probably could have used any of the holes on the track. I cut the bolts to fit and snugged everything down, disaster averted.

Kevin
Super.  That's great to memorialize that 10" will do any of the locations so that if someone wants to do the outboard they can.   

Without running numbers I suspect you are correct in that there's enough overkill that it doesn't matter if 💯% of the stress gets transferred to only one thru bolt.

I still disagree that inboard is "stronger" than outboard bolts (and could prove it out using vector diagrams — but I ain't gonna  )

it occasionally doesn't spit water when I turn the engine on.

There are times when the seawater "system" loses prime when heeled and for different reasons the pump doesn't pull the prime.  It can be due to poor fit of the impeller against a (worn?) cover, an air leak somewhere before the pump, or a partially blocked external strainer/thru hull.

Exactly why it happens and when who knows? but it can depend on specifics of the setup.

On our 30s it tends to happen more infrequently (the engine sits lower.)

IIWMB and that happened I would pop off the hose on the pump discharge to verify whether seawater is getting good flow that far (and the Hx or injection wye is an issue) or no warer (then the trouble is before the pump.)

Lubricate both pump hose barbs (in fact all hose fittings) so that hoses are more easily removed when it's needed.

Saltwater deposits can nearly block off the injection wye!  Make sure you are running the proper thermostat (160°F) and it is opening at the correct temperature.  Too high and the deposits occur more easily.

It seems to me you'd get a better purchase mounting them as far outboard as possible.

Kevin

I'm going to go a little outside my immediate knowledge of the 34 traveler/riser/deck sections here, so I may not be 100% right on. 
Forgive me Stu!

You have to drill down (ugggh) into the links in the Critical Upgrade.  To get enough length to use the outside holes, John's Plan B was to use all-thread from McMaster, and countersink the Acorn nut into the traveler.


This part is in my wheelhouse.
We know the force is greatest on the fastener when the load acts verically directly above it (the vertical component of the stress is virtually 100% - no horizontal component.)  ie, the boom/mainsheet blocks and car are positioned directly above the bolt, and nearly all (say 90%) of load is be transferred to that fastener. 

If the boom moves left or right of that car position the vertical component on the fastener decreases and (not an issue) the horizontal increases.

That's if all things are equal in all positions on the traveller at all points of sail. Of course sail pressure and load on the car don't work that way.

So very theoretically, the optimum thru bolt location is when you'd expect the hardest mainsheet (low horizontal load, high vertical load) and the car imparting that load as equally as practical onto both fasteners.

So I tend to agree that the optimal is where the two bolts are furthest apart.  Then, the stress is more equally shared between them as the vertical load is anywhere except maximum outboard.

The highest load is going to be beating with the car inboard (greater sail pressure, harder sheet so greater vertical component — the perfect storm.) 

And the further apart the fasteners, the more equally will the load be shared between them.

BUT that is theory.  If one fastener is way stronger than the load it could ever see, then taking 100% of  the load alone makes no nevermind anyway.

It's like I say about the Sherwood pump - yes, it pumps more but if you don't need that additional capacity why put up with a crappily designed pump?

That said my propensity to over-do (and sometimes regret it) I'd probably thru-drill for two on each side and to hell with relying on the embedded plate (because it's an unknown quantity.)

(Notice - ignoring my own rule about "excess capacity"  )

IIRC, it's in CRITICAL UPGRADES

Oops!  Defo. I lost my CRS mind.

[NOT at McMaster]

That 9" bolt is a real odd ball.

NOT at McMaster, which was the source recommended in the original post about doing the Critical Ugrade 101 Upgrade!  That's why I pointed you toward the 101. [correction, Critical Upgrade] 

Kevin:

Have you spoken to Kent @ CD? If you don't know him, he used to be @ CTY Engineering so is a great resource.
Oftentimes they have or have access to non listed items.

Otherwise the Fourm 101 links to the post about the upgrade, which lists bolt sources.

I may be stating the obvious but if its a 2-blade, mark the shaft and on longhauls lock it vertical behind the strut.

Ron,

Thanks for the advice, for the time being I'm just going to install the original Sailer that came with the boat and see how it goes. Since I don't race anymore I don't think a little prop drag is going to be a problem.

Except for getting it started correctly the rest won't be that bad if it's a good mechanic.

Cutting oil is a misnomer and is not for "cutting" but to cool the work (high sulfur content cooling fluid) and not to lubricate it.  Think of it, the goal is not to introduce slippage between the cutting edge and work, which would be counter productive. 

So in water, heat becomes a non-issue. 
In fact, one of my clients has converted half their screw cutting machines from oil based  cooling fluid to water based!

[indication]

At 2200 RPM and 6.5 kts I show 155 on my temp gauge. Should it be lower?

Understand that Teleflex states that the temperature gauge "is an indication and the reading can be +/– 15°F.

There's really only one way it goes back together; the impeller and the shaft have a flat spot.
 

Just to be clear, the issue is leaking past the outer lip seal so he needs to pull and inspect the shaft, not just pull the impeller from the shaft.

When one tries to reinsert the shaft/impeller as a unit there's two locations (180 degrees apart) that the shaft fits back onto the camshaft.  If it's not lined up correctly it's difficult to rotate the impeller when inside the water chamber to get the shaft lined up with the camshaft.
 
That's why it's best to mark the position of the impeller when removing it.

Yes, that's the 🇰🇷 pump.

Any consideration for the JMP sherwood replacement or is that what you're talking about when you say the Korean pump?

https://www.jmpusamarine.com/products/jpr-wb7108-jmp-marine-westerbeke-replacement-engine-cooling-seawater-pump/

Stu et al:

The iron/bronze Sherwood G908 is NLA. 
The replacement is the VERY expensive Westerbeke, which is a bronze pump.  I don't know who manufactures it but - just a guess - it might be the Korean pump.

Here's a helpful link for a pump rebuild for an Oberdorfer.  There is a Sherwood rebuild in the tech wiki but I'd opt to replace the Sherwood with an Oberdorfer because of all the dissimilar metals in a Sherwood.

Oberdorfer Pump Rebuild 101 - http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6766.0.html [Link added to main page of C34 Tech wiki]

I would prefer to repair it if possible. Pump with cover off

I have a 2" heat exchanger.
I think the inlet/outlet threads are 1/2".

Ok thx.  Does your aftermarket cover have an o-ring in it or does she use the paper gasket?

If you want to try salvaging it, the first thing is to inspect the shaft for scoring.  Just pull the impeller and shaft straight out and note the orientation of the tang on the end or the flat on the impeller end or mark a fin so you orient it correctly to put it back in.

It's an OLD pump and likely needs a new carbon bearing which isn't for most DIYs to replace.  You can have Depco or another authorized service center inspect and rebuild it.  Or simply try rebuilding w/o a new bearing and see what happens.

If she needs a new shaft the thing is with all the parts you're approaching the cost of a new pump with a warranty, which parts do not have.

So it depends on your ability and comfort level over trying to replace parts.  Lip seals are easy - the bearing is not.

Let's see what you find out about the shaft and take it from there.