Messages

Thanks. Learning as I go. Broker offered to go over systems with me "for an hourly fee". I said no thanks.

Depending on where you are there's a ton of CTY owners in the SD area!

New to my boat and looking for location of valve "b". The manual just has a schematic. Thanks.

It would be best to post what you're looking at when asking about something specific (schematic page) so everyone is on the same page.  Literally.

Krafty

No one but you knows how YOUR boat is set up, but TYPICALLY the tank is pumped out without using the macerator. 

TYPICALLY, the macerator discharges to a thru hull, not to the deck pump out hose.  HOWEVER, I had mine discharging to the deck pump out (the pump out was VERY weak and I wanted to assist it.)  It's now changed back to "normal."

The plumbing diagrams in the Owner's Manual show the flow paths.

Typically the tank outzie hose does NOT have a valve, but no one knows about your boat. Trace the hose back from both ends to learn where and how it runs.
Naturally I don't know the circumstances of the boat purchase - was there no introduction to its systems?  Is there a Catalina owner at your marina that could spend a few hours walking you through everything?  It would be invaluable.  I had to learn but "knew boats"  still it would have been a head start had I had someone to show me.

To answer questions...
- Both batt test just under 13V w power disconnected.
- Yes it is the right kind of silicone
- Glo plug worked like a champ today!

Thanks again all!

@lrsfty

The techwiki site contains a plethora of manuals for your boat, INCLUDING the Operators Manual on how to operate your engine.

@krafty

The techwiki site has complete Teleflex engine gauge troubleshooting instruction.  Start with the steps to troubleshoot the gauge.

It sounds like you might not be preheating enough, but there could be several causes.   
Please describe further exactly your steps and exactlt what is happening. 
Help us to help you!

My mounts have a 5" mounting bolt spacing

https://store.pyiinc.com/products/engine-mounts-5-8-stud?variant=38002678628542

John

Ahhh. Thanks for this. 

I did not realize that when Westerbeke switched to manufacturing the "A" series, that included in that switch was the million-dollar platinum-plated isolators.  (I hadn't checked your photos <embarrased>)  I wonder if that switch was "universsl" (ugg) across all A engine sizes?

Something new learned this day!

Ken

Eric

I did not have any issue, as I mentioned I raised the hulk, not lowered the keel. But I just cut thru the mung as closely as I could get. 
As I started evenly lifting, it slightly unweighted the keel as it held on. I recall that I was inside when she let go (a deep pitched bang) so I might have been pounding on each bolt nut with a hardwood block and hand sledge.

Cliff

If plumbed and valve/everything sized correctly one can install a Tee so that one can use a wooden dowel that is the correct OD so that it slides past the open thru hull ball valve to clear it.  The tee can he just above waterline. 

Another option is to screw a hose or pipe into a tee only when you need it to bring the top above the waterline.

I've done it (temporarily) with a length of hose on the seacock and sliding a dowel down inside and down thru the ball valve.

My point is, there are different ways to do it. 

Ken

I have to disagree with Ron on this. Much more chance to have the "holes" in the outside-mounted bronze clamshell foul with debris, binnacles, seaweed, etc. your boat your choice, but I wouldn't do it. Mainesail agrees it is not a good idea.

https://forums.sailboatowners.com/threads/why-i-dislike-like-external-strainers.124964/

Absolutely agree.  More than once I would have been dead in the h2o from grass blocking an external strainer.

Jack

ABYC has a nifty free AWG calculator app.  Check your app store.  What I don't like is it dumbed-down and makes all the decions for you. Blue Sea used to have one as well.

I prefer this one where it is easier to "gauge"   the trade off of cable size vs V loss. 
https://www.boatwireusa.com/pages/voltage-drop-calculator
And below it are ABYC ampacity tables.
HOWEVER I'm not sure why they are giving me different answers - I will look into that SNAFU.

You are ok with not sizing for the "bottom of the voltage curve" (avg A not peak A?) 
(I'm asking, not judging!) 

I'm thinking the starter needs the voltage heft during the worst instance.  Seems that might also allow the starter to last longer.

Ken

• Finding #2:  oh s***, when they dropped the keel, the lead didn't cleanly separate from the hull and it delaminated some of the keel stub.

There was NO WAY I could have (or would have even tried to) separate my keel from the stub w/o cutting through the entire length of the joint.  Even when 1/3 of the joint was deteriorated. (nor would I let the yard where I was at the time even come close to touching my keel to remove it.)

MUNG is tenacious and not easily cut/ground. Gerry Douglas claimed that one could remove the keel nuts, sail the boat, and never lose a keel.  I tend to agree with him based on my experience/my keel!!

[be sure to bookmark both sites!]

[Rod Collins' aka MAINE SAIL's pbase website is the original version of much of his work, and his marinehowto 'site has his newer material.

Newbies, be sure to bookmark both sites!
Rod duplicated most of (but not all) his content on the Pbase website on the MarineHowTo website (his article that I referenced is an example that wasn't.)

Rod also has good content on SailboatOwners.com that is not on his web pages (I believe that some SBO is referenced in the 101 Topics, but in the past there had been an issue when SBO modified its URLs and our links were dead. That may have been corrected(?) but be aware that one might need to search SBO directly if a Rod link comes back "not located."

Here's the capture.  CH1 (yellow) is voltage, CH2 (blue) is current.  My current probe is 10mV/A, so 2.22V is 222A and 1.14V is 114A. 

@Ben

Could you provide a quick lesson how to understand what the screen is telling us?

i.e., the left scale points (circled) and is 114A the AVG or the MIN?
But I'm interpreting 1.14v curve A (voltage, yellow) as the V at the starter B terminal (not starter amperage.)
I'm obviously misunderstanding what the scope is displaying.

Am I correct that it took 2 secs (circled) to start your XP?

Thx
Ken

Thank you to all who posted their data points!!
A prior reply questioned where I got the 90A average - it wormed into my brain a long time ago, and was also on Jon's spreadsheet for his rewiring (techwiki site.)  Perhaps I misunderstood his spreadsheet.

If you were sizing wire & fuses would you size it for the peaks at 220 Amps or the average at 167 Amps? The average is close to what my Victron Smart Shut reports (150 amps). I tend to think the average is what you would use, but I'm prepared to learn something.

@Jack,
Sizing new cables for someone else was exactly my reason for the question. 

ABYC E-11 says to size all critical circuits (starter, nav lights, bilge pump, and the like) for no more than 3% voltage loss round-trip. 
ChatGPT returned:
ABYC standards specify that the maximum voltage drop for starter cables should be less than 3% of the system voltage, and this calculation is based on the peak starter current.  This ensures that the engine receives sufficient voltage during cranking, which is critical for reliable starting performance.

But I see nothing in ABYC E-11 re: peak vs avg.  Perhaps that was clarified in a later "Interpretation Letter," but based on peak makes sense to me.  One would not want to starve the starter of full voltage at the point where it pulls the greatest current.  Unlike a fuse not blowing when amperage exceeds its rating for a brief time, the V drop will occur regardless of how short the time period (the 3% sizing is for performance not safety.)

I found Rod Collins adds three other data points:
...a 1987 Universal M-25 draws roughly 225A +/- depending upon temp and other factors. This is the in-rush load though.
and:
the starter [on a Westerbeke 4-cyl] drew slightly over 640A during the peak inrush. [no mention of the avg draw] and later  the "average" starting load [presumably the same engine] was 286A. on a 20F day with the bank/bilge at 32F.

And also from Rod:
Universal / Westerbeke BATTERY CABLE REQUIREMENTS (wire length round trip)
2GA = 8'
1GA = 10'
1/0 = 14'
2/0 = 18'
3/0 = 22'
4/0 = 28'

Everyone should agree that proper-size cables equal easier starting compared to OEM #4 (perhaps that's why some need to add the (IMO) dumb preheat solenoid "fix".)

Jack,
Rod discusses sizing battery fuses and the 150% rule here:
https://pbase.com/mainecruising/battery_fusing


Cheers,
Ken

Ben

Is she an XP?