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@KWKloeber, that makes sense and I did zip-tie up all the wires so they are nice secure but thank your for your zillion previous posts!   

I don't have the part number of the replacement switch with me, I left the box it came in on Honu, but it is the exact dimensions as the broken one that came off the engine. More importantly, it is rated at the appropriate PSI per the manual.

The brass T is brazed to the bracket, I broke the elbow off that the switch screws into. I was able to use an easy out to extract the broken elbow and just put a new elbow on for the switch then screw the bracket back onto the engine. 

This Autozone switch cap prevents damage to the switch terminals!

https://www.autozone.com/electrical-and-lighting/oil-pressure-switch-connector/p/duralast-electrical-wire-connector-1053/518356_0_0

Jim

Is it defo that the tube wobbles and it's not the sole that allows movement?

The C-30 dinette layout saloon table has a weak sole "problem" that drove me crazy with table wobble, but I fixed that easy peazy like.

The bracket around the pole is solid, it wobbles inside the bracket. Will try a piece of rubber in there first.

A strip of thin rubber (inner tube?) contact-cemented to the inside of the base?

Not knowing precisely the base/tube form factor, this is a guess: an L bracket bolted to the base with a knob that screws into a threaded hole on, or tightens against the tube? 

See
https://youtu.be/xa78umBAUAc
https://youtu.be/GZQHLvUUyuE
https://youtu.be/BSsAO5yE1Kw

[STIFF AUTO WIRE]

During the install, the oil switch positive wire prong broke off...it must have been bent back and forth in its past as it just fell off.

Luckily my local auto parts store had an elbow and replacement oil switch in stock!

Quick work with an easy out and the new elbow and oil switch installed.

@Moose

I have posted this about a zillion times before. 

The oil pressure switch terminal breaks off because of the STIFF AUTO WIRE that Westerbele uses on a MARINE ENGINE HARNESS instead of flexible MARINE WIRE.

The vibration and movement of the harness wire transfers to the switch terminal and eventually it work hardens and breaks. 

ZIP TIE DOWN the harness so that there is no movement possibly transferred to the switch terminals. 

DO yuo have the aftermarket part number of the replacement switch?  Is it the same length or a "long" form factor?

Isn't the brass tee brazed to the engine bracket?  Or wasn't that "injured" during the mishap?

Jim

Is it defo that the tube wobbles and it's not the sole that allows movement?

The C-30 dinette layout saloon table has a weak sole "problem" that drove me crazy with table wobble, but I fixed that easy peazy like.

Alex

Yup, easy peazy drill n tap / hose barb. 

I done see why others don't go that easy route vs bending into pretzels trying to find the more difficult route of affixing it to the silencer or going team KN.

There's so little gunk do you think it would make much difference if it went to 2 rather than 4 cylinders?

Ken... that is how I'd like to do mine.  On my m35 there are two bosses on the fore and after section of the intake that I suspect would be good spots to thread a nipple to accept the breather hose.  That said, I'd kinda prefer to mount it right in the center of the intake where the silencer attaches.  It seems like it would have better chance of atomizing and getting pulled to each cylinder intake.  Perhaps that will be a winter project.

Thanks, all.  I'll tighten things up, check the voltages at each circuit and perhaps replace the the button as a starting point.

The wiring diagram was in the original owners manual, so not sure what that is about, but will look in the wiki.

Kyle, when the button didn't produce a crank, I tested it using all 3 positions.  All failed.

Rich

Rich

WHAT manual - the title or the publication number, or photo, please?

Rich : Are you sure that you have a 4 cylinder, 35hp, M35B engine?  The reason I ask is because I didn't believe that it was available until 1995!!

A thought

If NOT that explains a lot of things.  If its NOT an "A" or "B" engine then there's a couple things we need to reconsider as far ar what to look for!

[https://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Manuals]

That is not even close to the OEM wiring on the B engines.

The concept is simple, apply 12v to the "S" terminal on the starter.
I said, the schematic and manuals for the M35B are on the Wiki Site.
https://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Manuals

If you are sketchy about following wiring schematics and locating the starter "S" terminal, you need "hands-on guidance." 
Being unsure of what's what, you probably need to get a qualified assistant to help troubleshoot this.

You have about enough energy stored in your battery bank to get hurt or weld something to your starter case if you happen to short out the wrong thing. 

Here's another option for the B engines.

There is a knock-out on the intake manifold that's used for the crankcase breather hose on some Kubota engine applications.
If you zoom in you can see where the hose is attached near the air intake throat.

bypass the panel and START button and apply a good, known 12v directly to the starter solenoid." 

How do I do this?

Have you downloaded the parts and service manuals and wiring schematic for your 35B engine?

To bypass the start switch you would put 12v directly on the "S" Terminal at the starter.  The wiring schematic will help you -- just follow the wiring from the Start PB Switch to the starter and eliminate the possibility of the Start switch or the "S" wire being bad.

You can also get fancy and make up a PB Remote start switch with a terminal to match the starter "S" terminal and an alligator clip or ring terminal to pull a good 12v supply. 

-ken

Note that some of the prior messages talk about a different starter on the (Oshkosh) Universal engines, and although all starters "start", the starter on the (Westerbeke) B engines (25XPB, 35B, etc.) are somewhat different.  Unfortunately, I do not have a good photo of those starters.

an inline fuse between the start button in the cockpit panel and the engine. 

Note that the pesky fuse is not present on the (OEM-wired) A and B series engines.  The "S" wire is direct to the solenoid. 

The panel, etc. is protected by a PB Circuit Breaker on the engine, below the cube Fuel Pump, plus the panel PB Breaker.

@rjabara

It is the crankcase breather hose (fumes/oil blow-by, which on autos used to have an in-line PCV valve on it.) 

Westerbeke cheaps out and simply zip-ties the other end against the foam air cleaner.  There are more exotic fixes for that hose end, but that's the basics.

@rjabara

There is no magic bullet, single-cause, answer here but there are two truisms that apply.

Either (1) the starter solenoid is faulty (doesn't consistently activate the magnetic switch) OR (2) the voltage to the solenoid is low and it cannot activate (pull in) the magnetic switch.

#2 is more likely than #1 and is easier to troubleshoot.
When you cannot activate the starter, the idea is to troubleshoot AT THE solenoid to determine if it has low voltage.  if the voltage is low, then find the cause, which can be a handful of causes. 

The start switch could indeed be the problem (burned contacts) and has enough V loss so the solenoid pulls in only when the Batts are being charged (14+ V.)

When trying to start (non-start condition) check voltages EVERYWHERE, from the battery to the key switch, to the start switch, to the solenoid.  That will help I.D. where the "bottleneck" is occurring. It can also be cumulative, being corroded cable lugs from the battery through the selector switch to the panel, the solenoid. Add up all the V losses and you have a large V loss.

The wiring on the B engines is very different than the Oshkosh Universal M-35 so print out the proper wiring schematic from the Wiki Site MANUALS page and use it to record the V at your key locations. MAKE sure all negative cable connections are clean and tight, as as well as the "S" wire terminals (which energizes the solenoid switch.)

Another approach when you have a no-start, is to bypass the panel and START button and apply a good, known 12v directly to the starter solenoid.

The other check is to hear whether the solenoid switch is indeed pulling-in, but the starter motor is not activating.  That's a way different issue and likely needs to have the starter pulled and checked out at a shop.  The starter motor not energizing can too, be caused by low V at the battery cable terminal.

Also, it looks like some battery terminals need attention.  The cables with the highest load go on any terminal post first and progressively lighter-load wires on top.  It sure looks like you have lighter terminals underneath some cable lugs.

Let us know the V readings that you see!

Sometimes it's as simple as spiders messing up the pivot