Messages

I get the science, but I would never get any guests on board if I asked them to pack in and pack out toilet paper! 

Just looking for everyone's experience on this.  Would that include uninvited "guests"?  You know, the, "I see you're going out alone today. Can I tag along?" type dock neighbors?    

Hi Cliff

Read this old thread, especially message #1
https://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=10365.0

Todd knows his stuff!!!  Call Sure Marine and ask about a conversion.

Thanks Ken for all those details. Mine is nice and dry at the moment but I am making note for the inevitable future!

I found a C36 couple who replaced theirs w/ a Kubota -- but naturally never put the correct part number in their blog -- only explained that there were two sizes.  ARRRRGH! 

That's when you know someone is trying to hear themselves talk rather than wanting to help others. 

The telltale weep hole is sending you a silent Mayday that the pump seal is leaking.

How tight is the engine belt?  Within spec/too tight?
Remove the belt and see if the shaft will wobble.  The pump seal and shaft and bearing can be replaced but the cost of getting the pump serviced might not be worth it compared to a new one.

There is an oddity on the B engines -- there are two different Kubota pumps with different P/Ns
and impeller sizes.  Apparently, the pump capacity was insufficient and the impeller size was increased, which necessitated a whole string of changes at the front end of the engine.
My guess is that Universals have the larger impeller. 
I am not 100% sure of the correct P/N for the B series engines but it is probably P/N #16241-73037 which is the newer P/N and probably the larger impeller. 
The older P/N is 16251-73032 and is probably the smaller impeller.

Take your old mump to the dealer to match it up to be sure.

If instead you want to order the rebuilding parts they are in the Kubota parts manual on the TechWiki.

More info

It it cycling on/off very second, continuously? 
Or what do you mean - mainly off, but ON for only a second? Or mainly ON but off for a second?
Different symptoms mean different problems.

Is the other pump on the potable water manifold or for the drain?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6eMUqbB1Jg

Re: PS comment about facial tissues in the head. Buy a weighted teak or resin cube tissue box holder, spray-glue non-skid to the bottom, and use a roll of potty paper inside.

That was my normal go-to at home before I was shamed for wanting to re-engineer everything I put my hands on.

Craig,

I'm not sure I understand what you mean by "remove the sender"?

Remove the temperature gauge sender from the thermostat cap. And use it to follow the troubleshooting steps I said in message #69.

Yards just suck, don't they?
Theyre conserving their tall stands. Your business isn't "worth" one.

They're not totally useless if they're holding weight but it's not 'correct'  (JTSO.)

Hey Alex

https://www.moyermarineforum.com/forums/forum/off-topic/general-discussion-off-topic/6498-amperage-diet-sort-of
https://www.moyermarineforum.com/forums/forum/discussion-topics/general-interest/4478-interior-lighting

ND discusses the lighting in those threads.  He had pics somewhere of the boat when he gutted it before refitting the interior and converting the traditional saloon to the dinette layout.

He fabricated the fiberglass wire channel for his puck lights because as you probably know the 70s had the wiring buried in the fiberglass deck (what could possibly go wrong with that?)

The pics were his original halogen puck lights but he's since LED'd the lighting.

Questions?  The last emails I have are:
nduttonc30@yahoo.com
neil@duttonengineering.com

Dan:

Reposted from a C-30 owner.  Caveat:  Neil Dutton is a perfectionist and anal and does the best work on his boat that I have ever seen by far.  (In a previous life he worked for a couple f boat manufacturers.)  Dutton; Duttoned is a noun and an adjective and a verb; used when an owner does a project exceptionally well - That's a "Dutton" : That's a Dutton light installation : He "Duttoned" those cushions.

I will also say that my Bro swears by Insul-X Cabinet Coat and is his hard-as-nails, go-to paint.
https://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us/interior-exterior-paints-stains/product-catalog/isc/insl-x-specialty-coatings

-Ken
nduttonc30                                        2016-11-01   msg #93966   
My surface prep was a good acetone scrubbing.  Sanding was only done where holes from the previous owner were patched (200 of them, he had a fetish for cup hooks and screwed down ty-wraps).
I sprayed Rustoleum gloss white with an HVLP gravity feed gun, absolutely necessary for spraying overhead.  Thinning the paint to spray knocked down the gloss to more like a satin finish.  Just this weekend I appreciated another benefit to my choice of paint.  I had some discoloration on my forward dinette seat panels so finding a matching color paint was as simple as a visit to the local home center paint department.  Rustoleum is still a good, high solids oil based paint and has held up well on my interior for over 10 years.  Here's another tip: being oil based you can add cobalt drier (aka Japan drier) to the paint to act like a catalyst.  Depending on the temperature the paint will tack off within an hour.  Works with varnish too.  Ratio of drier to paint is one capful to a quart.

With the texture of the overhead and hull ceiling*, spraying is really the only way to get a decent finish.

* Check out exactly what ceiling means on a boat.  Not the same as in your home.
 
Neil
Kalina, 1977 C-30 #600
San Pedro, CA

[Oil pan and dipstick tube -- Unused.]

I have:

Oil pan and dipstick tube -- Unused.

The pan fits all M-25 and XP/XPA/XPA(C) , but is like the pan on the EARLY M-25s -- it does not have the boss for the oil drain hose banjo. 
It never bothers me because I use a sucker and get 99.9% of the oil out, more than ones with the drain hose mounted mid-pan.
A welder could add the boss. 
Alternately, with your pans accessible, I would add a drain plug on the bottom rear of the pan.  Anyway, YBYC

The Universal cost is $800 for the pair, sell $500 for both.  NEW, never used -- the oil pan ITSELF from Westerbeke is $567.
The dipstick tube is no longer available from any dealer I am told so I'd like to sell together, but if anyone really needs one or the other, I'd consider breaking them up.  I'll throw in new gaskets if you take both.

Gear Cover - perfectly good, used like-new condition

Gear cover (mistakenly called timing cover) for the M-25 and XP/XPA/XPA(C).
These sold for $1,262 but are are no longer available.  Sell $500.

Ken

<<email via the link to left or
Ken <at> WeekendRProducts <dot> com

Don't play whack-a-mole with parts.  Confirm, then buy

Remove the sender and hook it up to the S and G terminals right at the gauge.
If she still pins high (and the sender has a reasonable resistance value for the ambient temp,) THEN replace your gauge

@ Breakin

Do you have an update on the JMP pump?

The challenge will be fitting it into the panel.

They way I viewed it, the CD breaker would need to be mounted upside down because there is no space below the existing hole. (without rearranging the AC side of the panel)

Mine has a bit different layout but same issue -- I preferred to drill a second hole above the existing one and mount a standard two-handle-toggled breaker.

the GFCI on the light pole in the parking lot that trips when I plug the cord into the boat- regardless of whether the 30 amp breaker on the boat is on or off.

So, could it be that the breaker is "leaking?" even in the off position (maybe thru the reverse polarity light)?
IIWMB, I'd

• completely disconnect the triplex shore cable at the panel to help isolate what segment the fault is in. 
• Depending on the "answer" disconnect it at the boatside inlet.  Maybe the smart plug is "leaking?"

Is it an old type (with the thermal breaker in the inlet?)  Those are not ABYC "legal" and have been replaced with a newer non-thermal-fused version.

hoping I was just missing something simple and wouldn't have to go this route on the panel.

Ha, that's a riot.  Thank you. I needed that chuckle.
But no joy, you can't get away with that one.  We all know that

• On a boat.  ANY boat. There's NOTHING simple when troubleshooting.
• Before fixing or replacing ANYTHING, two other things will need to be done first.

[Great that it all turned out for the better.]

David
He probably didn't use (or have) the correct crimper frame for heat-shrink-insulated terminals.

Or lost his mind and didn't crimp before heat-shrinking?
Sometimes mechanics get ahead of themselves/distracted and the consequences multiply themselves exponentially.  Not an excuse, just reality.

I have stories!

Great that it all turned out for the better.