Messages

Motorola = Prestolite.  Same part numbers.

Did you crimp the expensive hunks of wire from CD to your engine harness, or did you use thr non-ABYC compliment terminal strip that CD sells?

That burns almost as much as the original harness...

——-

For the M25XP, the fuel pump should come on with the key switch.

In the original diagram, I believe battery is red and alternator is orange; both are connected via the ammeter and go to "B" on the key switch.  That means "A" / purple is the switched side and the fuel pump should be connected to it.

You should be able to trace the wire from the pump to figure out which end it terminates at.

The easiest way to hook up the Facet depends on the answer to my question.

To say the best/easiest way to wire the pump, need to know: Did you butt crimp the expensive hunks of wire from CD onto your engine harness, or did you use the non-ABYC compliment terminal strip that CD also sells?

More info

Which engine does she have
What do you mean "replaced" it? With what, from what source.  Is it a custom made harness or a hunk of wire between two points.

Picture of what you had before you replaced whatever you replaced?

[Bottom line:]

A "modern-vintage" range or gas grill with modern controls or that are compatible to be used with residential natural gas pressures and convertible to LPG is NOT comparable to a CNG device that was manufactured 30 years ago

From Sure Marine, who has done this since forever:
Bottom line:
The necessary parts to convert the oven and make it function are no longer available.

The issue is the oven thermostat control, which will almost certainly not be compatible with propane.

They no longer manufacture the correct, propane compatible thermostat to convert the stove.

Changing the jets will not make the oven run correctly.

Assuming you could locate an LPG compatible thermostat, there is still no way to convert the stove and have it be USCG/ABYC compliant.

Once converted, the stove would not meet ABYC A-26.5.12 which states "All (propane) appliances shall have flame failure devices on all burners, and pilot lights, that will prevent gas from flowing to the burner if flame is not present."

There is no practical way to convert the stove to propane and bring it up to the current safety standards which have been in place since the 1980s.[/color]
Does Sure Marine not know what it's talking about? Why reinvent the wheel and relitigate the safety of "converting" what cannot be converted and comply with safety standards?

If someone wanted to carry an inflatable liferaft converted from a lake kayak or some other damn thing "because it floats over there," or after secondhand heresay "my buddy did it," or some other life-safety device we'd be yelling, "That's not safe!!" 

Or if someone wanted to wire up an appliance in a way noncompliant with ABYC because "it worked in my garden shed," or "I saw my buddy do it and he's still alive, y'all'd be screaming to the of your cabin tops, "That's not safe!!"

Is explosive gas that much less of a life safety concern aboard a yacht?

A thought (about safe operation of a vessel)

I get the science, but I would never get any guests on board if I asked them to pack in and pack out toilet paper! 

Just looking for everyone's experience on this.  Would that include uninvited "guests"?  You know, the, "I see you're going out alone today. Can I tag along?" type dock neighbors?    

Hi Cliff

Read this old thread, especially message #1
https://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=10365.0

Todd knows his stuff!!!  Call Sure Marine and ask about a conversion.

Thanks Ken for all those details. Mine is nice and dry at the moment but I am making note for the inevitable future!

I found a C36 couple who replaced theirs w/ a Kubota -- but naturally never put the correct part number in their blog -- only explained that there were two sizes.  ARRRRGH! 

That's when you know someone is trying to hear themselves talk rather than wanting to help others. 

The telltale weep hole is sending you a silent Mayday that the pump seal is leaking.

How tight is the engine belt?  Within spec/too tight?
Remove the belt and see if the shaft will wobble.  The pump seal and shaft and bearing can be replaced but the cost of getting the pump serviced might not be worth it compared to a new one.

There is an oddity on the B engines -- there are two different Kubota pumps with different P/Ns
and impeller sizes.  Apparently, the pump capacity was insufficient and the impeller size was increased, which necessitated a whole string of changes at the front end of the engine.
My guess is that Universals have the larger impeller. 
I am not 100% sure of the correct P/N for the B series engines but it is probably P/N #16241-73037 which is the newer P/N and probably the larger impeller. 
The older P/N is 16251-73032 and is probably the smaller impeller.

Take your old mump to the dealer to match it up to be sure.

If instead you want to order the rebuilding parts they are in the Kubota parts manual on the TechWiki.

More info

It it cycling on/off every second, continuously? 
Or what do you mean - mainly off, but ON for only a second? Or mainly ON but off for a second?
Different problems result in different symptoms.

Is the other pump on the potable water manifold or for the drain?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6eMUqbB1Jg

Re: PS comment about facial tissues in the head. Buy a weighted teak or resin cube tissue box holder, spray-glue non-skid to the bottom, and use a roll of potty paper inside.

That was my normal go-to at home before I was shamed for wanting to re-engineer everything I put my hands on.

Craig,

I'm not sure I understand what you mean by "remove the sender"?

Remove the temperature gauge sender from the thermostat cap. And use it to follow the troubleshooting steps I said in message #69.

Yards just suck, don't they?
Theyre conserving their tall stands. Your business isn't "worth" one.

They're not totally useless if they're holding weight but it's not 'correct'  (JTSO.)

Hey Alex

https://www.moyermarineforum.com/forums/forum/off-topic/general-discussion-off-topic/6498-amperage-diet-sort-of
https://www.moyermarineforum.com/forums/forum/discussion-topics/general-interest/4478-interior-lighting

ND discusses the lighting in those threads.  He had pics somewhere of the boat when he gutted it before refitting the interior and converting the traditional saloon to the dinette layout.

He fabricated the fiberglass wire channel for his puck lights because as you probably know the 70s had the wiring buried in the fiberglass deck (what could possibly go wrong with that?)

The pics were his original halogen puck lights but he's since LED'd the lighting.

Questions?  The last emails I have are:
nduttonc30@yahoo.com
neil@duttonengineering.com

Dan:

Reposted from a C-30 owner.  Caveat:  Neil Dutton is a perfectionist and anal and does the best work on his boat that I have ever seen by far.  (In a previous life he worked for a couple f boat manufacturers.)  Dutton; Duttoned is a noun and an adjective and a verb; used when an owner does a project exceptionally well - That's a "Dutton" : That's a Dutton light installation : He "Duttoned" those cushions.

I will also say that my Bro swears by Insul-X Cabinet Coat and is his hard-as-nails, go-to paint.
https://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us/interior-exterior-paints-stains/product-catalog/isc/insl-x-specialty-coatings

-Ken
nduttonc30                                        2016-11-01   msg #93966   
My surface prep was a good acetone scrubbing.  Sanding was only done where holes from the previous owner were patched (200 of them, he had a fetish for cup hooks and screwed down ty-wraps).
I sprayed Rustoleum gloss white with an HVLP gravity feed gun, absolutely necessary for spraying overhead.  Thinning the paint to spray knocked down the gloss to more like a satin finish.  Just this weekend I appreciated another benefit to my choice of paint.  I had some discoloration on my forward dinette seat panels so finding a matching color paint was as simple as a visit to the local home center paint department.  Rustoleum is still a good, high solids oil based paint and has held up well on my interior for over 10 years.  Here's another tip: being oil based you can add cobalt drier (aka Japan drier) to the paint to act like a catalyst.  Depending on the temperature the paint will tack off within an hour.  Works with varnish too.  Ratio of drier to paint is one capful to a quart.

With the texture of the overhead and hull ceiling*, spraying is really the only way to get a decent finish.

* Check out exactly what ceiling means on a boat.  Not the same as in your home.
 
Neil
Kalina, 1977 C-30 #600
San Pedro, CA