Messages

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6eMUqbB1Jg

Re: PS comment about facial tissues in the head. Buy a weighted teak or resin cube tissue box holder, spray-glue non-skid to the bottom, and use a roll of potty paper inside.

That was my normal go-to at home before I was shamed for wanting to re-engineer everything I put my hands on.

Craig,

I'm not sure I understand what you mean by "remove the sender"?

Remove the temperature gauge sender from the thermostat cap. And use it to follow the troubleshooting steps I said in message #69.

Yards just suck, don't they?
Theyre conserving their tall stands. Your business isn't "worth" one.

They're not totally useless if they're holding weight but it's not 'correct'  (JTSO.)

Hey Alex

https://www.moyermarineforum.com/forums/forum/off-topic/general-discussion-off-topic/6498-amperage-diet-sort-of
https://www.moyermarineforum.com/forums/forum/discussion-topics/general-interest/4478-interior-lighting

ND discusses the lighting in those threads.  He had pics somewhere of the boat when he gutted it before refitting the interior and converting the traditional saloon to the dinette layout.

He fabricated the fiberglass wire channel for his puck lights because as you probably know the 70s had the wiring buried in the fiberglass deck (what could possibly go wrong with that?)

The pics were his original halogen puck lights but he's since LED'd the lighting.

Questions?  The last emails I have are:
nduttonc30@yahoo.com
neil@duttonengineering.com

Dan:

Reposted from a C-30 owner.  Caveat:  Neil Dutton is a perfectionist and anal and does the best work on his boat that I have ever seen by far.  (In a previous life he worked for a couple f boat manufacturers.)  Dutton; Duttoned is a noun and an adjective and a verb; used when an owner does a project exceptionally well - That's a "Dutton" : That's a Dutton light installation : He "Duttoned" those cushions.

I will also say that my Bro swears by Insul-X Cabinet Coat and is his hard-as-nails, go-to paint.
https://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us/interior-exterior-paints-stains/product-catalog/isc/insl-x-specialty-coatings

-Ken
nduttonc30                                        2016-11-01   msg #93966   
My surface prep was a good acetone scrubbing.  Sanding was only done where holes from the previous owner were patched (200 of them, he had a fetish for cup hooks and screwed down ty-wraps).
I sprayed Rustoleum gloss white with an HVLP gravity feed gun, absolutely necessary for spraying overhead.  Thinning the paint to spray knocked down the gloss to more like a satin finish.  Just this weekend I appreciated another benefit to my choice of paint.  I had some discoloration on my forward dinette seat panels so finding a matching color paint was as simple as a visit to the local home center paint department.  Rustoleum is still a good, high solids oil based paint and has held up well on my interior for over 10 years.  Here's another tip: being oil based you can add cobalt drier (aka Japan drier) to the paint to act like a catalyst.  Depending on the temperature the paint will tack off within an hour.  Works with varnish too.  Ratio of drier to paint is one capful to a quart.

With the texture of the overhead and hull ceiling*, spraying is really the only way to get a decent finish.

* Check out exactly what ceiling means on a boat.  Not the same as in your home.
 
Neil
Kalina, 1977 C-30 #600
San Pedro, CA

[Oil pan and dipstick tube -- Unused.]

I have:

Oil pan and dipstick tube -- Unused.

The pan fits all M-25 and XP/XPA/XPA(C) , but is like the pan on the EARLY M-25s -- it does not have the boss for the oil drain hose banjo. 
It never bothers me because I use a sucker and get 99.9% of the oil out, more than ones with the drain hose mounted mid-pan.
A welder could add the boss. 
Alternately, with your pans accessible, I would add a drain plug on the bottom rear of the pan.  Anyway, YBYC

The Universal cost is $800 for the pair, sell $500 for both.  NEW, never used -- the oil pan ITSELF from Westerbeke is $567.
The dipstick tube is no longer available from any dealer I am told so I'd like to sell together, but if anyone really needs one or the other, I'd consider breaking them up.  I'll throw in new gaskets if you take both.

Gear Cover - perfectly good, used like-new condition

Gear cover (mistakenly called timing cover) for the M-25 and XP/XPA/XPA(C).
These sold for $1,262 but are are no longer available.  Sell $500.

Ken

<<email via the link to left or
Ken <at> WeekendRProducts <dot> com

Don't play whack-a-mole with parts.  Confirm, then buy

Remove the sender and hook it up to the S and G terminals right at the gauge.
If she still pins high (and the sender has a reasonable resistance value for the ambient temp,) THEN replace your gauge

@ Breakin

Do you have an update on the JMP pump?

The challenge will be fitting it into the panel.

They way I viewed it, the CD breaker would need to be mounted upside down because there is no space below the existing hole. (without rearranging the AC side of the panel)

Mine has a bit different layout but same issue -- I preferred to drill a second hole above the existing one and mount a standard two-handle-toggled breaker.

the GFCI on the light pole in the parking lot that trips when I plug the cord into the boat- regardless of whether the 30 amp breaker on the boat is on or off.

So, could it be that the breaker is "leaking?" even in the off position (maybe thru the reverse polarity light)?
IIWMB, I'd

• completely disconnect the triplex shore cable at the panel to help isolate what segment the fault is in. 
• Depending on the "answer" disconnect it at the boatside inlet.  Maybe the smart plug is "leaking?"

Is it an old type (with the thermal breaker in the inlet?)  Those are not ABYC "legal" and have been replaced with a newer non-thermal-fused version.

hoping I was just missing something simple and wouldn't have to go this route on the panel.

Ha, that's a riot.  Thank you. I needed that chuckle.
But no joy, you can't get away with that one.  We all know that

• On a boat.  ANY boat. There's NOTHING simple when troubleshooting.
• Before fixing or replacing ANYTHING, two other things will need to be done first.

[Great that it all turned out for the better.]

David
He probably didn't use (or have) the correct crimper frame for heat-shrink-insulated terminals.

Or lost his mind and didn't crimp before heat-shrinking?
Sometimes mechanics get ahead of themselves/distracted and the consequences multiply themselves exponentially.  Not an excuse, just reality.

I have stories!

Great that it all turned out for the better.

 
 

[not a safe breaker]

Tom

Here's a reason why it's key for owners to post pics when they have a problem -- the breaker on your panel is not like the one that I linked to and is not a safe breaker. 

It should be 2-pole, not single-pole, and therefore should be replaced with one of the type CD shows, or a double-handle-toggled breaker.

You didn't answer which white/black wires on the AC Terminal strip in your first picture are from the Smart Plug.  So does the shore power feed run thru the 30-amp breaker or does it go to the term strip?

The reason as others say that a breaker was later added at the transom is that ABYC requires the Main Breaker to be within 10 feet of the boatside inlet.

Without parsing what work you explained that you did to find the ground fault, generally:

• Start with all connected (I presume that with the breaker off, there is no ground fault trip?)
• Systematically start disconnecting circuits to isolate which one is causing the trip.
• Then systematically isolate to locate what item ON THE tripped circuit is causing the trip.

It could be a failed GFIC receptacle.  That is common.   So start there and disconnect the circuit for the port/starboard receptacles.
Or the water heater possibly leaking current, so try that circuit next. 
Then the charger circuit. 

As you work thru it, reconnect whatever you disconnected before progressing to the next circuit.

 

[Tom,]

CTY didn't install a separate breaker (from the panel) closer to the shore power receptacle as specified in current ABYC standards.

guys : It was in the 1988 production that the factory started to install a single throw, double pole 30 amp breaker with a reverse polarity light!!\

Craig/Ron,

Am I mistaken that this is an early Mk-I vintage panel like **should** be on Tom's 87? 


Isn't (like my 1984 C30 panel) the "AC Master" a 2-pole, single-throw, 30-amp breaker?

Tom,
The shore power hot and neutral supply should feed to it first in line. THEN, jumper over to the HOT and NEUTRAL halves of the AC terminal strip.

Here is the replacement (it can be found for le$$$ elsewhere):
https://www.catalinadirect.com/shop-by-boat/catalina-38/electrical/breakers-switches/circuit-breaker-double-pole-30-amp-ac-master/


I have actually Mod'ed my panel and replaced it with a Blue Sea double-handle, toggled main breaker (which fits in the same space on mine but had to move the Service and RP lights location.)

@ Everyone

On EVERY Universal engine. EVERY ONE. The pump (facing it) turns CLOCKWISE, so it is easy to tell which hose barb the impeller SUCKS from (raw seawater from the thruhull) and which hose barb the impeller PUSHES through (to the Hx.)


**I have climbed the stupid tree and I own one in the backyard**!!

EDIT:

I've also confused myself by thinking erroneously that the raw water pump takes water from the HX.

Also, many believe that the freshwater coolant pump "pumps" from the engine, TO the hose on the front of the gear cover. 
It DOES the reverse,  the coolant pump SUCKS from the hose on the gear cover and pumps coolant TO the engine block and TO the Water Heater (via the hose barb on the of the freshwater coolant pump.)

 

[5/8" ID HOSE.]

@Keel

You circled the seawater SUPPLY elbow (a 1/2" NPT elbow/inlet to the PUMP) and its hose barb is 5/8" ID HOSE.

If you follow the hose (easily done) you'll see that it DOES NOT go to the Hx - it comes from the 5/8" barb on the seawater thruhull (or strainer.) 

The hose from the TOP hose elbow (which is also 1/2" NPT but 7/8" ID HOSE) goes to the Hx.

I previously posted resources on this forum showing the "B engine" hose routing and it is on the wiki:
https://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Flow_directions_in_engine_cooling_hoses_(both_early_and_B-series_engines)

Cheers
Ken

[Correction]

My main reason to re-bed NOW would be to preserve integrity of the bolts.  BUT if I weren't going through this process I probably wouldn't be worrying about it...

Correction,
The Main reason ..... IF I EVEN NEED to rebed is...
I don't understand the foregone conclusion that you need to rebed (i.e., the bolts are compromised)?

Does it crush the solid glass or only the wood core that I don't have?

at 105 ft-lb = ~10,000 lbf
 ≈ 25 MPa of stress.

But the entire section isn't compressed, just the topmost (floated?) layer of resin gets compromised.
 
https://www.boatdesign.net/attachments/fiberglass-strength-tests-pdf.148849/
Shows that the compressive strength of cured fiberglass resin is 55-mPa.

For a nominal 3/4" ID washer the stress @ 10,000#f would be ~30-mPa (if the nut doesn't bend the fender washer.)  Close enough to be possible considering that, naturally, strength depends on resin/hardener quality/characteristics and the quality of application.