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Messages - Stu Jackson

#8131
Main Message Board / Morning Shower!
May 01, 2005, 08:06:11 PM
Good Old Boat magazine had an article within the last year or two of some folks on a boat without a water heater at all.  They heated up a kettle of water and added it to a Sun-shower.  Works for us.

Instantaneous gas heaters have a rotten reputation.  Others can comment on this.

Another source is an Espar-type diesl fueld heater, used for cabin heating, that also makes hot water through your existing water heater.  I do not know if there is a way to turn off the cabin heating to just make hot water.

Or just switch your routine.
#8132
Main Message Board / Keel Bolts
April 30, 2005, 04:15:33 AM
No, not at all Ray.  It's just that we're both up past everyone else's bedtime.   :wink:

5,000# of metal hanging off the bottom of the boat doesn't float.  Seems that simple.  No way are we gonna be able to pull any of that up with a few nuts on some bolts.  

No difference in torque values - 105 is it, 107 is close.  You just need the weight of the boat on the hard and the keel pushing up while being well blocked to be able to "cinch" the two together.

Of course, if the fwd and aft two bolts are tight and the middle ones loose, then one would expect the middle ones to be able to be tightened regardless of where the boat was.
#8133
Main Message Board / Eletrical Panel
April 29, 2005, 10:07:34 PM
Suggest you try Seaward, who most likely made the panel, or Catalina Yachts.  Radio Shack is also a possibility.
#8134
Main Message Board / Keel Bolts
April 28, 2005, 10:07:03 AM
Ken

Great report.

We will consider you as the EAST COAST KEEL NUT SOCKET resource.

Ray Irvine is the WEST COAST KEEL NUT SOCKET resource, Northern California Division.

Any other volunteers?
#8135
Main Message Board / Instruments installation
April 28, 2005, 10:02:12 AM
Quote from: SteveLyleStu - can you delete the previous post?

What's the easy way to control a JPG size?

Anyway, here's my setup - from the May '04 Mainsheet.

Steve:

1.  done

2.  I've found that th KB size isn't the controlling factor, but rather the physical size, although they are proportional.  I use Photo Paint from Corel and use the RESAMPLE option on the Image menu.  I size it to 5 or 6 inches at 72 dpi and the pictures come out reasonably well sized for posting.

3.  Still a nice installation, well done.


Paul

Only consideration for your proposed installation is/are FEET.  If you're a cruiser ti may not be much of an issue, but if you encounter heavy weather, slippery decks, or race, you may need to consider a way to protect the instruments at that location.
#8136
Main Message Board / Newport Beach to Ensenada Race
April 27, 2005, 09:14:24 PM
George

Very nice job this year and 10 years is great!  Congratulations.

I'm guessing that there is a URL link to the race website which would put everything in perspective.   :wink:
#8137
Main Message Board / Boat Hauler
April 27, 2005, 09:12:38 PM
A search on "hauler" finds:

http://www.c34.org/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=2064&highlight=hauler

Try one on transport or overland.
#8138
Main Message Board / Fuel Line Replacement
April 26, 2005, 09:42:11 AM
My understanding is that the fuel return line is a bit smaller than the 3/8 inch supply line.  While you're at it Ken, could you please confirm the sizes and the lengths of the lines you need so future "replacers" can have an easier time of it?  Thanks.
#8139
Main Message Board / Instruments installation
April 26, 2005, 09:39:21 AM
Paul

I recollect that Steve Lyle did a tremendous writeup of his instrument installation in a recent Mainsheet.  Please check Tech Notes Online, if you're a member of the C34IA you can read them all.
#8140
Main Message Board / Instruments installation
April 25, 2005, 09:46:56 PM
Not brilliant, just basic:

1.  Forward locations:  How is your eyesight and how big are the instrument letters?  If you have to wear glasses to see them, think about the situation of switching from instruments to binoculars and back again.

2.  Higher mounting on binnacle:  I've heard of boats with such great instrument displays that the owners were required to either buy a helmsman's seat or stand all the time to look above the display.  While the instruments provide great information, they shouldn't be in the way of enjoying the sailing of the boat, which includes looking forward.   :lol:

I enjoy our basic three instruments:  speed & wind on each side of the compass, and depth on the starboard cockpit side about where the control panel is on the port side, but a bit lower.

You might want to consider an Option 4 - splitting them up like that (admittedly old 1986 style) near the helm that so they are close but not overwhelming.

PS  Paul, what's your year and hull #?
#8141
Main Message Board / Bow Cleats
April 25, 2005, 01:44:26 PM
Jerry

In my opinion chocks do nothing but create chafe.  Why install four pieces of hardware when two will do?

While our earlier C34s did not come with more than the one single cleat at the bow, many of us have added cleats to the sides.  Access, while limited, is through the Beckson plate in the anchor locker.  Some have added another Beckson plate to gain better access.  This is included in your CD-ROM and the website FAQs and Projects.

Here's one: http://www.c34ia.org/projects/projects-extra-bow-cleats.html

Some have also added rub strakes at the edge of the deck where the lines go overboard from the (new) cleats to keep the fiberglass intact from any potential rubbing of lines.

I added one cleat on the port side and use the center cleat for the starboard side and for anchoring.
#8142
Main Message Board / traveller line through dodger?
April 25, 2005, 09:55:39 AM
Randy

Thanks for the input - I've saved their website on my favorites under "Boat - Cleaners"!

The old dodger was long gone by the time these pictures were taken.  It was well over 14 years old, all the stitching had gone south, and it needed replacement anyway.  The new dodger (and the cleaner looking one!) is on the picture I posted for the backstay adjuster in another recent post.
#8143
Main Message Board / Apache's Backstay Adjuster
April 24, 2005, 04:43:18 PM
1.  Clarification - That's NOT my sketch, Dave Davis worked it up.  He sent it to me, I scanned it years ago, and simply published it here.  He gets the credit.

2.  The Garhauer adjustable backstay is pictured below.  Mine doesn't ride up on the swages.  The reason I suggest raising the single backstay even higher is that even with the Garhauer unit all the way up with my single backstay as high as suggested in Dave's sketch, there is still a little bit of pull.  You could, as Ron suggests, work a wider one up with Bill or Guido.  I really like ours.
#8144
Main Message Board / Traveler control line leads
April 23, 2005, 04:30:47 PM
Kerk

As Ted and others have noted, there are a number of ways to do this.  Ted's reference article is good to read.

The first picture shows two important things:  one the slit in the dodger front glazing, and two, the cam cleat on the aft end of the coach roof.  This is our OLD dodger (sorry for the poor and dirty condition - it's since been replaced).  The PO originally must have had the cam cleats mounted right on the traveler car sheave arrangement, which is the way most boats are built.  That is WHY he had the slits in the window, to be able to pull up on the control lines and release them.

Then, he got smart and read Mainsheet magazine.  Sometime in the late 1990's our own Jim Moe, who also owns a Catalina 30, published the great idea of:

1.  taking the cam cleats OFF the traveler cars
2.  adding a fairlead bullseye to the coach roof
3.  adding a new cam cleat at the aft edge of the coach roof
4.  making the control lines longer (we had to anyway when we added the new 6:1 traveler control sheaves from Garhauer)

He wrote this up with a picture in the Catalina 30 section of that old Mainsheet magazine.  (That's why I continue to recommend that you read all the stories in the magazine, regardless of what size boat - there are many useful ideas in addition to our C34 section.)  Our PO read it and installed the bullseye fairleads and the cam cleat on the coach roof.  He therefore had no further use for the slits in the dodger glazing, but, obviously, they were still there in his original dodger when we bought the boat.

The second picture shows the newer Garhauer sheaves in front of the old dodger (with it's cover on).  No cam cleats on the car(s).  Note the roller on the aft end of the traveler car which leads the control line aft through the dodger glazing and back to the bullseye on the coachroof.  The old traveler car 4:1 system, which was on the boat when we bought it, also had no cam cleats on the traveler cars, since the PO removed them after he implemented Jim Moe's idea.

The traveler control line in the first picture is the red flecked line laid on the coachroof just aft of the solar vent.  Note the cam cleat with a built in fairlead on the top to keep the line within the cleat body.  The bullseye fairlead is about halfway up the coachroof between the aft edge and the base of the dodger, hidden in the picture behind the winch.  Just follow th line through the dodger slit and you can figure out where it it located.

Neither the bullseye or the cam cleats needed to be mounted with through bolts through the coachroof, they are just screwed into the top of the coachroof.  They've held up fine for 18 years.  Most of the load is horizontal.

When we got our new dodger last year, we eliminated the slits and replaced them with two simple grommets, one in each side of the dodger window glazing.

In my view, turning the control lines down and under the dodger adds too much friction.  These ideas are simpler and easier.

What to do for your new dodger? ::::  I recommend removing the cam cleats from the control cars and adding the bullseye fairlead and cam cleats on the coach roof.  The bullseye fairleads are hidden behind the cabintop winch in the first picture.  It is literally a snap to manage the control lines now.  Or, you can go with the old slit idea if you leave the cam cleats on the cars, but it is a lot harder to release the control lines that way because you still have to lean forward to get leverage to remove them from the cam cleats.  The grommets look neater than the slits.

If you have the old traveler 4:1 system, you may want to consider upgrading to the new 6:1 system while you are doing this dodger design so that the grommet goes in the right place.

Your dodger maker may also have some ideas, but from what we're hearing from you, he's asking you what you want.  Sorry it's not a great time of year to tell you to go walk the docks and get some more ideas, but I think these pictures cover a lot of the things you'll see in terms of options.
#8145
Main Message Board / Apache's Backstay Adjuster
April 22, 2005, 12:03:22 PM
Here's the scan of Dave's sketch.  I understand that Dave had made some modifications, which he can describe.  I raised ours to the height he suggested, it could go even a bit higher.  We NEVER have ANY head bangers, even when pulled in tight.  We used an old wooden ladder, four or five steps, to adjust the turnbuckle.  We had D shackles installed at the chainplates.  If you get a "wide-bodied" D shackle with the right sized pin, there's no need to drill the chainplate, just use the same hole.  We also purchased a Garhauer 4 part vang arrangement which works and looks great.  Many folks have commented on how neat the Garhauer sheave assembly looks (which is NOT what's on this drawing).