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Messages - Stu Jackson

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Main Message Board / To Cetol or not
« on: February 04, 2002, 03:44:01 PM »
 This is one of those "beauty is in the eye of the beholder" issues.  The downside of Cetol, as some have mentioned, is the color, which some say looks like a used baby diaper.  You get the idea.  
 On the other hand, my experience on two boats has been that the significantly reduced maintenance issue is a far more positive influence on our decision to use the Cetol.  It's like paint, you put it on, and then paint over it regularly, never have to sand, no, absolutely no, peeling, ever.
 We went through what you are going through now with our old C25.  I stripped the teak down, and tried teak oil.  Ended up a lot of work, and turned gray anyway, even with regular effort.  Used Cetol, never looked back.  We first learned about Cetol from a boater on Vancouver Island, BC in the early 90's.
 When we got our C34 almost three years ago, one of our first jobs was to diss the varnish and switch to Cetol.  Still looks great, just a touchup now and then.
 If you'd rather sail than varnish, you already have the answer.
 Armada is another Cetol like material.  I understand it is a tiny bit lighter in color, but pretty much the same kind of stuff.
 Cetol makes two colors, one is much lighter.  A dockmate tried the lighter stuff, and didn't like it because it was too light.  Don't know if you can mix and match.  Another option is to use the darker (regular) stuff as a base coat (or two or three) and then use the lighter stuff on top - it's said that the lighter stuff has a higher gloss shine to it and may look more like varnish when you're done.
 Good luck.
 PS  We bought our "older" boat because we like the wood trim.  The Cetol keeps it looking great, most people don't know it's not varnish.  Another one of our dockmates, with a Mason 33, spends most of his springtimes revarnishing, not sailing.

Main Message Board / Leaking Forward Hatch
« on: February 02, 2002, 06:35:03 PM »
 There is a superb article in the latest (or next to latest) issue of Good Old Boat Magazine about this very problem.  If you don't get this great publication, let me know, and I can scan it and post it to you by email.  Better yet, I'll do it anyway and send it to our FAQ webmaster, Mark Elkin, for posting on the FAQ or Projects part of the website.

This is a correction to my earlier response after looking at (and sailing!) the boat yesterday.  The vang is NOT attached to the larger bail, the mainsheet block is.  Ignore fist message!
 My arrangement is very similar to Ron's.  The Garhauer rigid vang is attached directly to the boom under the third bail from the rear of the boom.  The third bail is the larger one.  The mainsheet block is attached to that third larger bail, and easily clears the vang.  The mainsheet line runs down to the base of the mast parallel to the vang from the third bail, then to a block at the aft base of the mast and back to the cockpit on the starboard side through the fairleads under the mainsheet traveller track.  I did NOT use the deck organizer for the mainsheet from the mast base block; it runs directly back to the inboard-most of the holes under the traveller track.  
 I replaced the old mainsheet blocks with the new Garhauer open-body blocks last year, very nice.  Also upgraded my traveller to the 5 part purchase.
 I ran the mainsheet to a new sheetstopper, by removing and replacing the old clam cleat, to improve the lead to the winch.  The sheetstopper is left open when sailing with the mainsheet on the starboard cabintop winch.  I've discussed this wild idea previously in great detail on this message board (see my May 10, 2001 post called "Sheetstoppers" under a question about rope clutches - you can use the message board search engine to find it or just browse by date).
 The foward boom bail is not used at all for the mainsheet, although I do use it for tying a single block onto it to gain additional purchase for the mainsail outhaul (one of Dave Davis' ideas).  
 My vang control line goes to port through the lower vang block, then to the port deck organizer, and back to a swiveling standup cam cleat on the port side near the forward base of the dodger.  With all the purchase available from the vang itself, I've never needed to use the  winch, although I could use the port side cabin top winch if need be because the swivel cam cleat is far enough forward to run the line to the winch with a fair lead.
 Seems like your layout for your lines will depend on what lines you already have, what space is available on your deck organizers, and where you choose to deadend the lines based on your existing configuration and hardware, along with Ron's suggestions for using additional leading-line hardware under the traveller track.  Either way, it seems we both used the same ideas at the boom bails.
 [This message was edited by Stu Jackson #224 1986 "Aquavite" on January 20, 2002 at 09:51 AM.]

Main Message Board / Garhauer Rigid Vang
« on: January 17, 2002, 04:40:29 PM »
1.  There was a thread on this message board about this equipment some time ago.  I suggest you use the Message Board Search Engine (blue box, upper right hand corner), and check it out.  Performance is great.  The search should lead you to a discussion of topping lifts as well.
 2.   Our PO boat had the Garhauer vang installed when we bought it.  There is a much larger boom bail installed on the boom that holds the upper end of the vang, and one of the mainsheet blocks was relocated to another one of the smaller bails.  If you need more details, I can sketch it out for you or take a photo and email it to you.  Let me know by email direct.

Main Message Board / Thin Water
« on: January 17, 2002, 09:40:59 AM »
While it is assumed that the water in SF Bay is deep, it isn't in most places, only the main shipping channels.  When we bought our PO boat two and a half years ago, the PO didn't know at what setting the depthsounder would advise of the real bottom.  Since I frequently travel in thin water, over soft mud, I tried it out, and determined that my depthsounder, with my keel, with the usual stuff on board, will hit at 4.4.  Therefore, I try to stay above 4.4 on the depthsounder.  When I see 5.0, that's my warning.  Seems to me that the effort to set the sounder to some specific offset or real actual depth may be a time consuming but unnecessary exercise.  Of course, if all you've got are rocky bottoms in your neighborhood, this concept isn't quite as useful.
 beang's concern about shallow water is understandable.  One way to overcome that would be to rent a bareboat in the Bahamas where shallow water is a way of life, and you get a nice vacation to boot!

Main Message Board / Draft
« on: January 13, 2002, 05:34:13 PM »
The Brouchures section of this website has all the statistics you are looking for.

Main Message Board / Wing Keel Draft
« on: January 13, 2002, 11:36:38 AM »
My understanding is that the wing keel draft is measured two ways:  one, at rest, horizontal; two, when heeled.  Heeled will give a deeper draft, hence the need to only go aground with a wing keel when sailing closehauled, so when you turn around the keel gets shallower!

Main Message Board / 86s Rule
« on: January 13, 2002, 08:53:17 AM »
 If you check out the C34 website, you'll find lots of us who have purchased previously owned 1986 boats and many who have  retained their original 1986 boats, 16+ years!  
 Unlike most other manufacturers who change things because they didn't get them right in the first production run, Catalina got it right directly out of the box.  
 We have #224, #55 won the National Regatta in Connecticut last year and #8 here on SF Bay wins a lot of races, too.  
 Many of us have upgraded systems over the years, and sometimes I think the only thing Catalina has missed is a powerful electrical system for these boats, although they seem to have finally gotten the idea with the C310 and new C350.  
 You just can't go wrong with a 1986 C34.  We saw a lot of newer C34s during our boat search, but our older boat was a lot "newer" and in better condition than anything else we saw in over a year of looking (for ONLY Catalina 34s). One of the best parts about the C34 is that everything is accessible, and parts are available.  
 See "Why We Bought Our Catalina 34" in the FAQ on the website.  Good luck, and don't forget to join the International Catalina 34 Association when you get your boat.
 Best regards,
 PS  The brochures section of the website has the original Sail magazine writeup of the 1986 C34, as well as the original price list, which shows the mast option as Ron mentioned.

Main Message Board / Sink Removal
« on: January 13, 2002, 07:43:04 PM »
 Al Watson took his whole galley counter aprt, and wrote it up in Projects with a link to his own website.  This was in addition to his article on the sink improvement. Seems a lot more work to get the sink out and then back in for what you need to do.

Main Message Board / Flybacks
« on: January 13, 2002, 09:01:16 AM »
 Use the search engine on the message board, upper right, blue background.  Type in Flyback, hit the search button.  Answers are there.

Main Message Board / Tapping
« on: January 06, 2002, 03:41:23 PM »
Another option to consider regarding Ron's suggestion to caulk, is to use Lanocote.  Lanocote is a material that separates the aluminum from the stainless steel, so there is no galvanic corrosion between the mast and the screws.  The mast plate may be steel anyway, so it's less of a problem, but anytime you put a steel screw in the alumnimum mast, it is better to use Lanocote than caulk.  A small tub of it costs maybe $10 and lasts forever.

Main Message Board / Source
« on: January 03, 2002, 01:11:48 PM »
 The Universal dealer here is SeaPower Marine, Kennedy Street, Oakland, off the 23rd Ave exit of 880 south, easy to get to.  Phone is 510-533-9290.  Another company recently advertised in Latitude 38 that they were also newly in the business of distributing Universal parts, don't recall who.

Main Message Board / Bending the Boat Back ( where it started...)
« on: December 28, 2001, 05:37:49 PM »
 You wrote:  It seems to me that with a masthead rig boat like the C-34 once the forestay is taut it becomes easier to flex the ends of the hull up than to bow the center of the lower stay supported mast.
 The idea, as I understand it, is to tighten the forestay by tightening the backstay TEMPORARILY with the backstay adjuster.  Once off the wind, the tension is released.
 You wrote:  Can you folks open the cabin and head doors when the backstay is honked tight?
 Too busy sailing upwind when using the adjuster to notice.  Doors still open when backstay tension is released.  Come to think about it, the aft cabin door never did open when we were on port tack anyway, so we installed a door hold open device (simple cup & hook) so we could get in there just in case we needed something while sailing.  Head door always opens, always needs to...  Never honked it tight, just tension it some.
 You wrote:  I just set my forestay/backstay very tight and put about 6" aft rake in the mast and leave it so all season. If I want a slightly fuller jib I loosten the halyard.
 If the issue is "bending the boat" then it seems to me that keeping tension on "very tight...all season" could induce more boat bending than infrequent backstay tensioning.  I guess, Cahrlie, as long as your doors still open, you've got it adjusted just right!
 I also figure that the racers amongst us have many more tricks about the use of the backstay adjuster.  Now all I have to do next season is to get the jibs' (yes, both of them) luff's lengths set up properly with our new roller furling gear so I can use the backstay adjuster which was installed when I put on the new standing rigging which went with the new forestay which went with the new furling, etc.

Main Message Board / New Garhauer Backstay Adjuster
« on: December 11, 2001, 03:53:04 PM »
In addition to Steve's reference to the FAQs, Garhauer last year came out with a very good looking backstay adjuster.  It's got two really well polished pieces of stainless connecting two wire blocks with a series 30 line block hanging below for the vang arrangment.  They can also give you a wire block for the lower vang if you'd like.  Cost:  $50.  Beat that!  Call Bill or Guido, a great addition.  Make sure you measure your backstay split.  Most likely will want to raise it.  Measure twice, cut once...

Main Message Board / Winch Servicing
« on: December 09, 2001, 03:19:31 PM »
Jim:  Seems that the best source would be the winch manufcturer.  If you have the OEM Lewmar's, Lewmar makes different "kits" for winch repair, which you should be able to get from catalogs, West Marine or Boat/US.  As I recall they also have a very good maintenance guide with a "Winch Maintenance for Dummies" type of book, specific to their equipment.  It may also be available on their website -
 When in doubt, use your web browser, it's amazing how much is out there.

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