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Messages - Stu Jackson

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 530
1
Main Message Board / Re: Cetol remover
« on: May 18, 2018, 05:37:29 PM »
I used a heat gun, having previously used all the other methods.  I let the eyebrows and handrails go gray and used teak cleaner then brightener on them this spring.  The cockpit wood was done last summer by my wife who used paint remover.  Everybody's got their own "go to" solution.  Like many things in life, there is no "best" or "right single answer."

2
Main Message Board / Re: Drilling into ceiling to mount a projector
« on: May 15, 2018, 05:38:18 PM »
Drilling up needs careful consideration, as do any holes.  Depending on where you plan to put the rig, there's various "stuff" above that should be planned for.  Things like the sliding hatch and the hollow area underneath the cowl vents and the traveler.  It sure looks nice and even from down below.  :thumb:  I'm sure you're on top of all of that (pun intended! :D :D :D).   8)

Based on the weight, thru bolts may not be necessary at all.

Good luck, please keep us posted on your progress.

3
Main Message Board / Re: Fuel Pump 101 UPDATE and CRITICAL QUESTION
« on: May 15, 2018, 10:28:16 AM »
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

The Fuel Pump 101 should be cleaned up with the old posts with old part numbers removed.  Since there are two NAPA pumps with different pressures, a note that the 4-5.5 psi is acceptable.

Thanks, Jim, I just added this thread to that subject.

4
rm

Here ya go:

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7405.0.html

Good luck.  I'll work on thinking of more sources.  If Dennis doesn't have it, he may, just may, know someone who knows someone...        :D :D :D

You could also try a wide(r) audience on sbo.com.

Boats parted out from hurricane damage seem to be a source.

5
Main Message Board / Re: Drilling into ceiling to mount a projector
« on: May 13, 2018, 08:28:55 PM »
This is another one similar to Ron's idea:

http://www.c34.org/projects/kindred-spirit/galley_shelf.html

I used the Knowledgebase spreadsheet, under the galley topic.  Try the wiki under interiors, too.

Good luck.

6
Main Message Board / Re: Drilling into ceiling to mount a projector
« on: May 13, 2018, 12:53:04 PM »
sv, one of the approaches I have always taken with my boat is to try to figure out alternatives to drilling holes before I do anything.  In addition, one of the other things we have always counseled for new-to-them boat owners is to WAIT for a while before they make modifications for any reason - Live with things first before making changes.

Given those concepts, and your description of your equipment, you might want to begin to consider if (I say, if) there is any way you could find a somewhere that you could place the projector so that is would be high enough to project on the screen.  For example, the counter just aft of the nav station is the highest horizontal surface in the saloon.  Would it be possible for you to test it as a location by simply placing it there on a stack of books, for example, to see if it would work?  If so, you could fashion some kind of more permanent support for it.

Good luck.

7
Main Message Board / Re: Alternator Upgrade
« on: May 12, 2018, 11:36:05 AM »
This is the alternator Ken is considering:

https://www.dbelectrical.com/products/alternator-for-4-cyl-diesel-lehman-4d254-73-on-20054-3141192-353274.html

Anyone have any experience with this vendor and/or product?

8
Main Message Board / Re: water heater woes
« on: May 10, 2018, 03:18:52 PM »
Those who have been turning blue waiting with bated breath for the corrected M-25, et al, Owner's Manual to be posted, you can breathe again.
it's online.


I'll keep holding my breath, though, waiting patiently for the link.   :thumb:  :D:D:D

9
Main Message Board / Re: water heater woes
« on: May 08, 2018, 08:17:24 PM »
Thank you, Ken.  Nice work.   Hope your 12 hour trip went well and was successful.

10
Main Message Board / Re: water heater woes
« on: May 05, 2018, 07:51:02 AM »
The simple short answer, which I've spent some time figuring out here at the Catalina Rendezvous in Roche Harbor between visiting with great new friends, appears to be that the water heater loop is, in itself, THE parallel loop.  This appears to be the case because the coolant pump as shown on the linked diagram pulls the water through the block and then outputs it to the HX.  Yes, the short 3/8" hose IS the "bypass" hose, replaced by the heater loop, which is in parallel with the main circuit of the coolant system.  Bypass = parallel.

I was wrong earlier.

11
Main Message Board / Re: water heater woes
« on: May 04, 2018, 09:21:30 PM »
Congratulations, Noah.  Well deserved.  Now, as I've learned, is when you really get busy.  :D

12
Main Message Board / Re: water heater woes
« on: May 04, 2018, 06:07:39 PM »
Thank you.  No need to be rude.

13
Main Message Board / Re: water heater woes
« on: May 04, 2018, 02:27:45 PM »
Ken,  I know you said it was wrong.  All I asked was to explain why.

From Science Digest:

"Pipes are said to be in series if different lengths of pipes of different diameters are joined end to end with the entire flow passing through all pipes. Sometimes two or more pipes are connected so that the fluid flow splits among the branch pipes and eventually combine downstream into a single pipe. Such a piping system is referred to as parallel pipes."

In series piping, if ALL OF THE WATER goes through all of the pipes without any parallel branches, it is a series piping system.  We have ONE pump, which circulates all the coolant water through the entire system:  pump >> water heater >> thermostat >> manifold >> HX >> back to pump.

It is one continuous "pipe" and the water flows through the whole system equally.  There appear to be no branches.

At least that I can see.

That is why I'm asking.  That's all.

14
Main Message Board / Re: water heater woes
« on: May 04, 2018, 11:57:41 AM »
Stu

The link was direct to MY post, explaining to Noah what that hose is, and how the WH loop works. Take a read thru it.

On all y’alls boats the bypass hose was removed from the OEM M-25//xp engines and the WH put into a parallel loop, BASICALLY replacing the OEM KB loop created by the short bypass hose.  It’s just a MUCH LONGER loop and has a WH coil in the middle of the loop. See my pics showing the hose that your WH loop replaces.

Even on the early C30 M-25s, the Hx was never in series with that bypass hose. The short hose existed OEM Kubota on the early engines  and at some year? CTY changed to the setup the MkII C30 and your boats have. (I made that mod  to my Mk-I /  M-25).

I’m not sure which manual you’re referring to?  Parts? Owner/Ops? Service?
The pic I pasted (parts manual) in my post shows no Hx in series. The pic SHOWS the bypass hose which is CORRECT.  That’s OEM Univeral and Wb.
 CTY is the one who scraps the bypass hose when they plumb  to the WH.

That WH loop replacing the bypass hose is WHY we get H W so quickly. Circulating coolant is heating the water because it’s NOT in series w/ the Hx, and H W doesn’t depend on the thermostat opening.

In effect one can disconnect the WH and plug both hoses (not have to connect them together) and won’t overheat. BUT it’s dangerous because of the “hot spots” I explain in my other post.

Make sense or did I muck it up further?


-K

Ken, 

I have read it.  I started that thread.

No muck, it’s just that I think there may be a “disconnect” between the application of the words series and parallel.

The short 3/8 inch “bypass” hose, between the coolant pump and the thermostat housing provides a pathway for the coolant to circulate as shown on the referenced flow diagram from the engine manual.  When the water heater replaces that short hose, it is in series with the entire coolant flow circuit, not parallel.

The parallel circuit you keep mentioning may well be the internal thermostat bypass which operates before the thermostat opens.  Could this be your parallel item?

If one examines Bob Kuba’s excellent tech wiki article about adding a bus heater core & fan, it clearly shows that the “exterior” loop HAS TO BE in series through  both the water and bus heaters for the coolant system to continue to work.

http://c34.org/wikiwp/?rdp_we_resource=http%3A%2F%2Fc34.org%2Fwiki%2Findex.php%3Ftitle%3DCabin_Heater



Stu

Ok I see —. In the OPS manual.

The FIG 13  is wrong, it has a couple flaws in it. 
When I get time I will ‘adjust’ it and post the correct flow pattern.

It doesn’t show a WH so one can’t infer anything about the loop from that fig.

Sure, one can simply “show” the water heater:  between the coolant pump and the thermostat.   Bob Kuba’s diagram is pretty clear on that, as is the plumbing diagram in the C34 boat manual, which is the basis for Bob’s diagram.

Ken, if you don’t have time to correct and show the flow pattern you mention, perhaps you can just describe where it is wrong.  That may help to clarify this parallel vs. series issue.

15
Main Message Board / Re: Keel Bolt Update
« on: May 04, 2018, 11:35:58 AM »
   
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
         I gotta ask after all that did you get that list corrected? If not you might try what ships damaged in combat do to correct a list---counter flooding.

Many times on this & other boating forums, I have read of people suggesting adding lead to offset lists.

I then recommend that the best example of useful lead are more batteries.  :D

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