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Messages - Stu Jackson

Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 543
Main Message Board / Re: House vs starter bank charging
« on: March 21, 2019, 11:55:02 AM »
As one of those “buy a bag of ice from the 7/11 store” believers'" I must admit that Kevin and Noah are right. 

Different strokes for different folks. 

Having moved, in a major way, from benign SF to "winter's are chilly here in BC," I now leave my boat plugged in all winter with the heater on medium so I can at least spend more time in the boat during the rare sunny winter days.  The battery charger's always on now, too, which I never had to do because when I lived in SF I could use the boat all winter every few weeks, and I check the battery water level much more often.  It didn't snow and then rain inside the boat without heat!  :D And my drinks stay cold during the winter so I don't have to run the fridge all the time!  :D

Moving taught me a lot.  Weather does matter.

I apologize.  I was wrong.  Still failing Reading Comprehension 101...  :D:D:D


Now, turning the battery switch through "off" (not in your case) is a completely different story and will likely result in blown diodes.

Simply not true in Paul's case because he clearly said: "In our case, the Alternator is wired to the batteries, ie. not via the Off-1-2-both switch."

He could turn the 1-2-B switch off with the engine running and do no harm.

Main Message Board / Re: House vs starter bank charging
« on: March 20, 2019, 11:06:38 AM »
The one thing I couldn't find was curious about the ill effects of using charger to top of the reserve bank if it's a different type or capacity of battery.


This is another "it all depends" issue.  FLA (wet cell) and AGMs have remarkably similar voltage requirements for charging, while gels and wet cells do NOT. 

I have in the past suggested downloading any alternator regulator manual from  Every single one of their installation manuals has a very good table of charging voltages for various battery chemistries.

And capacity has nothing to do with it, because with the proper maximum voltage battery acceptance determines how much current goes to each bank.

You might want to do a Google search on Yandina Combiners.  Their website explains how this works for almost any VSR.

The Ample Power Primer also discusses this.

Unless you mix two completely different types of batteries it should not be an issue.

Main Message Board / Re: House vs starter bank charging
« on: March 20, 2019, 10:51:10 AM »
To reinforce the concept of the Electrical Systems 101 topic:


It simply DOES NOT MATTER WHAT OTHER SKIPPERS DO unless they tell you how their boat is wired.

Main Message Board / Re: House vs starter bank charging
« on: March 20, 2019, 09:03:00 AM »
You should consider wandering over to

Electrical Systems 101,5977.0.html

These links from that topic explain how things work and how & why:

OEM 1-2-B Switch Wiring History,4949.msg30101.html#msg30101

Basic Battery Wiring Diagrams  This is a very good basic primer for boat system wiring:,6604.0.html

This is another very good basic primer for boat system wiring:   The 1-2-B Switch by Maine Sail (brings together a lot of what this subject is all about)

This is a newer primer for boat system wiring design with a thorough digram:   Building a Good Foundation (October 2016)

The Short Version of the 1-2-B Switch Stuff:,5977.msg38552.html#msg38552  This is a link to the Electrical Systems 101 Topic, reply #2

What are ACRs, Combiners & Echo Chargers?  (by Maine Sail) [scroll to the top] and,9404.msg70131.html#msg70131

Making Sense of Automatic Charging Relays  (2019)

Any more specific questions we'd be pleased to respond to.

Main Message Board / Re: Seaward 2172 Hillerange Oven repairs
« on: March 19, 2019, 05:57:58 PM »
Anyone have a photo of the faceplate?  My stove works like a champ but the marking are all worn off so it's a bit of a guessing game!


Open the top of the stove after removing the burner grates.  Info should be "under the hood."   :clap

Main Message Board / Re: Pics of my smaller dinette table
« on: March 13, 2019, 02:47:27 PM »

...but what I meant was that i'd like a way to (quickly) have no table at all, not just a smaller one with the leaf down. I really like that solution, but it isn't quite what I'd like to do...


You're right.  What I found interesting is that everyone has a different idea of what will work for them.  In 1999 Al Watson posted his solution in the old, now static, projects page.

I read Ron's idea when he first published it. 

I "saved" many of the ideas others have shared here on the forum under "salon table" or "saloon table" if one does a search here.  Most of them utilized the smallest table possible idea in various and creative ways.

I took a completely different approach and just cut off 6 inches off the aft end, in a recent tech note.  Works for me.  Not for everyone. 

Your boat, your choice.  :D

Main Message Board / Re: Cockpit beckson portlight
« on: March 10, 2019, 12:20:12 PM »
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Any suggestions on how to keep the exterior trim ring nice and snug while silicone sets?   A few blocks and clamps?

You don't have to search, just go to the 101 topics thread and find the link(s).

i was thinking of using a couple of dowels or wood trim pieces I have laying around.  Just prop them up against the far footwell of the cockpit.  Easier if you apply the silicone early and let it set up a bit before you apply the trim ring.

Main Message Board / Re: Cockpit beckson portlight
« on: March 10, 2019, 10:49:00 AM »

The 101 Topics has links to Beckson topics.

These ports are the ONLY place on the boat I use silicone.  Beckson recommends it.  Follow their suggestion.  This from a Bed-It-With-Butyl fan from the get go.  Don't use butyl on Beckson ports.

Jeff Tancock taught me that at least for the two cockpit ports you do NOT have to remove them, the removal is shown in the 101 links.  Think about it:  what you are trying to do is to stop water from getting from the outside fiberglass / cockpit face into the inside.  Take off the trim ring.  Silicone around that carefully.  Replace the trim ring.  Done.

Sometimes the trim ring is welded on!  You may have to destroy it to remove it, then buy a new one.  I just did!

Good luck.

PS - For those ports I believe you don't need thru bolts.  This is a more like you could "get away without them" compared to "absolute necessity."

Main Message Board / Re: Pics of my smaller dinette table
« on: March 09, 2019, 09:59:47 PM »

added tags: salon table saloon table

Main Message Board / Re: Fleet for So Cal or Catalina Island Sailors?
« on: March 09, 2019, 09:58:06 PM »

Hi and welcome.

You can reach Vice Commodore Jon Windt here:

He is responsible for assisting folks in Fleet Formation, and has a package of handy information that you can use to help you out.  The C34IA will also assist financially for related activities.

Main Message Board / Re: New Member seeking alternator input
« on: March 09, 2019, 12:38:18 PM »

IIWMA, I’d check with RC to see if the slap on the back “external” regulator he carries fits your alt. That would add adjustable setpoint, 2 stage, and optional remote voltage sense.


That's one option.  I suppose the point could also be made that MS's Internal vs. External Regulator article might be a good re-read about this.  Doing nothing now and saving the $$ for future purchases might be an option based on how he plans to use the boat.  Absent plans in the near future for cruising overnights without shore power, the OEM rig will do just fine.

Main Message Board / Re: New Member seeking alternator input
« on: March 09, 2019, 12:31:08 PM »

So I took my old alternator to another shop about an hour away to get a second opinion.  After looking it over, they bench tested it and told me it was putting out 50 amps.  "Nothing wrong with this."  Because it had ingested oil from the crank case breather, he is going to crack it open, check things, and give it a clean.  I'm glad I'll be able to re-use it.  I re-routed the breather tube to the air filter intake per the suggestion of Ken in the tech wiki.  Hopefully that will prevent me having to "check the oil" in my alternator going forward!

Thanks again to all this who helped me sort this out.  Saving now for my electrical upgrade in a few years when I can go to Maine Sail for my needs.


Great news.  Ain't dem second opinions priceless?  Based on your earlier input, I almost blush to admit we didn't think of suggesting that for you.  Perhaps the fact that first alternator guy I met was good and trusty.  :D

Now that I've moved 1,000 miles away, I've sourced a new shop, haven't had to use them.  Yet...  :D

Now all I have to do is find that danged backup alternator.   :shock:  I thought it was somewhere on the boat, like, where it should be!    :cry4`

You'll know have time to continue your deliberations and hardware investigations.

Main Message Board / Re: Battery system for distance cruising
« on: March 09, 2019, 11:57:32 AM »

Ultimately, if pushing beyond 90A or so, especially with high acceptance batteries or even large flooded banks, the optimal solution is a serpentine kit. Unfortunately these serpentine pulleys do not fit the LN frames and you'd need to be into a Delco style frame. Lots of options... 

Good points here.  One thing MS and I have discussed over the years is external regulators and how Small Engine Mode can help, too.  If you look at Elec 101 you'll see those discussions.

Just so you know, what I have is a 100A Blue Circle alternator , Balmar MC-612 external regulator, AO to house bank, Yandina combiner, Freedom 15 I/C.  I started out with a stock alternator with an AutoMac.

I still run a 3/8" Gates belt, nothing special other than Gates.  I have carefully adjusted my bracket based on MS's excellent advice (also posted in both Critical Upgrades and the 101 Topics).

Operationally, the Small Engine Mode use is discussed in the Elec 101s.

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