Messages

• Russ,
  
  I'd take a look at a boom furling sail. You can have full battens and if there are any problems with the furling gear it's just above the cockpit so you won't have to go aloft to effect repairs.
  

Endless analyses have been done on the stratesphericly different costs between the two systems.

That's hilarious. So, presumably Catalina white is pretty white.

Well, it's white and it's on my Catalina 34, and I think it's pretty.   

Russ, the REASON we keep asking people to post their boat info in their signatures is just this kind of question.

What year boat?  Tall rig or standard?  Furling main or standard?  Where are you located?

Help us to help you, please.

While we're on the subject, anyone out there have a starting point suggestion for colour matching the white on our boats? I guess they all age differently, but I've got a white base gel coat, and a basic tinting set.

A friend loaned me some white gelcoat.  I asked this question.  He said, "It's Catalina white."  A year later he asked me to point out the spots I'd done.  I couldn't.  He fessed up and said, "I just use white, it all fades pretty soon."  He has a C36. 

Or call Catalina and ask them for "their tint."

Or wait for someone else to answer here. :D:D

Mark, thanks for the photos.  Those are not voids.  They appear to be dings made by wayward hardware.  It is not structural and should be easily repaired with some easy gelcoat treatment.

Just a cross reference to another resource.  Thx Indian Falls.

https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,10843.0.html

Another resource from another skipper.  Thx Indian falls.

https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,12155.0.html

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All I recall on the transom is the exhaust and 2 scupper outlets underneath the overhand just above the boot stripe and I believe it is the manual bilge pump at the lowest point in the center of the actual transom.

Was the automatic T'd into the manual pump?

Yes and yes.

Justin, your arrnagement means your galley sink drain seacock has to remain open all the time.  The OEM Mark I bilge outlet thru hull was at the low center point of the transom.  You might already have one there because that's where the manual pump in the port side of the cockpit runs to.

Which is exactly what Ted said it was. 

Aaron,  In my previous post I provided a link to the anchor system sizing tables from Calder's Cruising Handbook.  I also wrote in Item #4 in that link:

I have been suggesting that handy reference sources be used, like Calder's Cruising Handbook.  The photos below are the three important tables from that book for sizing anchoring SYSTEMS.  You can wander on down to your local WM store or any handy nautical book chandlery and read the rest of the two pages on how to use the tables, but they're pretty self explanatory.  You've already mentioned "The Gotcha" about this whole exercise:  some chain won't allow a fit of certain sized shackles.  So, it becomes important to plan ahead.  In many cases, windlasses dictate the size and type of chain, with the the rest of the bundle to follow along.

In the pages following those tables in Calder's book is a very detailed discussion of shackles.  I won't reproduce it here, but you could do as I suggest and find it, and also realize this whole chain/shackle strength thing has been around since they invented chain and shackles.

Hi Aaron
I'm curious why you think 1/4" chain is undersized for the 34.
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I agree with Mick.  The question you have to ask is for what wind strength are you designing the ANCHORING SYSTEM.

Anchor System Sizing Tables (Reply #6) & Swivels http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4990.msg30400.html#msg30400

Using the LP means that both sides of the sail "triangle" will be "pulled" evenly.  Just look at the diagram again.  If you use the mid-luff point, the long side of the triangle (leech) will have different tension on it than the short (foot) side, won't it?

Another way to look at this:  it's like moving the jib fairlead car if you change the point from LP to mid-luff.

Nice work, great idea to move the stop cable.  Can't wait to see the "after" photos. 

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 Using a line from the sheet, through the clew to mid luff as a start point, I have more space to go in either direction with the cars than I realized. I've only sailed her a couple of times, and think that I just hadn't analyzed it closely enough

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Welcome, Steve.  I sailed my boat on SF bay for 18 years, great place to be.

What you should also do is to measure through the clew to a point perpendicular to the luff.  While this is also called the LP for Luff Perpendicular and is used to determine the "size" of the jib, that's where the "line" for the sheet should for run "for starters," and not mid-luff - that's way too high a point.  Then the block position gets adjusted in small amounts for wind strength and sail shape.

I ran both a 110 and an 85 jib on my boat.  Both were Quantum sails which were a high quality loft in the Bay Area and used by many skippers because it was "normal" for third party sails back before Catalina supplied sails improved their OEM quality.  this was more applicable for older late-80s boats, but racers often continued to do so.

There was an active and highly competitive racing fleet, Fleet 1, on The Bay and I enjoyed many years of being part of the fun bunch.  There is a section of this forum that has race results and maybe some other info.  A search on "SF Cup" may find it.  COVID took a swipe on Fleet activities.  Don't know current status.  Max headsail for racing was 130 for the C34 one-design fleet.  We had so many race boats that we has our own class in winter PHRF races, too. 

That said, as long as the leech fits, your PO being a racer, Quantum sails, all these facts lead me to believe your jib is just fine.