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Messages - Stu Jackson

Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 530
16
Main Message Board / Re: water heater woes
« on: May 03, 2018, 04:08:55 PM »
A question:  Before you removed it, did you still have the heating loop from the engine functional?

presumably the loop itself was still intact.  i was able to run the engine during survey and winterization without a loss of coolant or anything.

i did pull the hoses between the water heater and the engine.  they were in really rough shape, but still "intact" enough

i never did fill the fresh water side of the plumbing stuff, figured there wasn't any point since all the hoses and tanks needed to be replaced or cleaned

md-

Thanks so much for your reply.  Understood.

For feedback from me, my friend investigated further at his engine. 

He just explained it to me this way: 

"We've had this boat for about 2 1/2 years now, and here in the PNW we're sailing only half the year.  Kinda like folks back east who have to pull their boats, but we stay in the water.  I looked at the engine and the hose between the thermostat housing and the top of the water coolant pump (M25 engine, 1983 C36).  There was NEVER a connection to our water heater, which only heats by electricity!!!  [There IS a hose between the T housing and the the top of the coolant pump.  Just like the diagrams in the manuals and the TOAD website show, and that Ron has told us, repeatedly about.] Oddly enough, my wife simply never told me about it, and she's the one in charge of the galley - without being a galley slave."  :D:D:D

So folks, the "big problem" for my friend has been solved completely.  Heck, if it ain't connected... :cry4` :shock: :clap :D

He thanks you all for your help.  :thumb:

17
Main Message Board / Re: water heater woes
« on: May 03, 2018, 07:50:53 AM »
Stu

The problem is on an M-25//xp with the same WH hose setup?

The WH loop could have a blockage (or air lock) and the engine wouldn’t necessarily overheat. Hot coolant just wouldn’t get to the WH. What could occur, though, is the block could be damaged if it develops a hot spot(s) because the coolant isn’t flowing before the Tstat opens. 

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,9868.msg75253.html#msg75253

Verify that there’s coolant flow in the return hose back to the coolant pump (most think the coolant pump “pumps” to the Hx, but it actually “sucks” from the Hx and pushes coolant back thru the engine block.)

Ken,

I started that link.  Perhaps I misunderstand your point.  My friend had run his M25 engine all day.  No overheating.

Page 33, Figure 13 in the M25 manual shows that the water heater would be in SERIES with the coolant circuit.  If so, would not a blockage in that "leg" of the circuit cause engine overheating if was blocked with thermostat open?  Are you indirectly saying the thermostat may not be opening?

18
Main Message Board / Re: water heater woes
« on: May 02, 2018, 09:04:55 PM »
mdid,

Thanks for that fine photographic presentation.

A question:  Before you removed it, did you still have the heating loop from the engine functional?

A friend is experiencing no hw when he runs his engine, a new-to-him issue.  I just learned about it tonight, so we haven't had any time to actually troubleshoot.  But he has no water in his bilge and his engine doesn't overheat, so that coolant part of his circuit seems to be intact.  Just wondering what your experience was.

Thanks.

19
Main Message Board / Re: Fuel filter and racor filter
« on: May 02, 2018, 06:05:23 AM »

20
Main Message Board / Re: Stemhead Fitting Rust
« on: May 01, 2018, 05:46:45 PM »
SS does rust a little.  Treat the rust with FSR (works on both the metal and the fiberglass).  See if that removes it first.  Noah's right, check inside, too.  You might need to remove the Beckson plate and use a mirror and a flashlight.  Good luck.

21
Main Message Board / 3/8" Hose to Water Heater
« on: April 30, 2018, 05:43:44 PM »
Found this from Ward, with a C30, over on abo:

My M25-XP has two short lengths of 3/8" hose running from the thermostat housing to brass adapters where it transitions to 5/8" hose.  Time to change out these hoses.  I checked with the usual sources and the only 3/8" marine hose I can find is fuel line and silicone heater hose. The silicone heater hose is not fuel/oil compatible.  Anyone know where I can find 3/8" hose suitable for this use?


He found this:

Found a hose that will work at the local AutoZone. I had to look through their formed coolant hose rack to find it.

Dayco 87001 is a 3/8" ID Formed Coolant Hose about 14" long with a 90 Deg bend at one end. It will give me the 3/8" 90 Deg formed hose I need as well as the 3/8" straight hose.

22
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

...when you change the lip seals don't forget to inspect the shaft and inside face plate for wear


I have a new shaft ready to go.  Always.  I used my backup new shaft with the impeller already on for this replacement.  I just ordered a brand new backup shaft 'cuz the one I pulled out had had it.

Geez, only 10 years.  Where's Ken?!?  :D

Before I even thought about putting the old faceplate back on, I just "treated" the inside of it and it works just fine.  Flat is what is necessary.  Not hard to achieve.

23
Main Message Board / Re: Caring for the interior teak
« on: April 24, 2018, 09:20:13 PM »
Although on a fresh water lake, Does it count if you’re doing that OFF OF the vessel?


Could be.  There's this thing called "WIND."

Water corrodes.  Salt water (just) corrodes absolutely (and quicker).

Take your pick.  :D :D :D

24
Main Message Board / Re: Anchor Light Replacement
« on: April 24, 2018, 09:16:29 PM »
Thanks.  I searched Anchor light for hours (slow connection).  Finally found under "Mast Light":

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6007.msg38353.html#msg38353

I think this answers most of my questions, except, why didn't they leave extra wire above the knot? The more jobs i do on this Catalina, the more I lose faith in the intelligence of Catalina.

Sorry it took you so long.  It's enough to make one wanna write to your CongressCritter about Net Neutrality!!! :clap :clap :clap

I admire the intelligence of Catalina in making a boat where you can at least access everything.  Ever try to check the oil level on a Beneteau 35?   Gruesome, requires removing the cushions in the aft cabin to even get to the wall you have to remove to get a peek.

Count your blessings.  :D

Plus, who knows what the PO may have done.  Not fair to blame the builder...

When I bought our then-12 year old boat in 1998 there was horrible mast slap.  I have NO idea how the PO ever stayed down below, even in a protected slip.  Turns out the OEM wiring for the basics, most likely done by the dealer, ran the wires OUTSIDE the conduit in the mast.  Sheez...:D

25
Main Message Board / Re: Nav Station Hanging Locker Storage Ideas
« on: April 23, 2018, 08:36:48 PM »
Thanks, Patrice, for that great description.  Much appreciated.

Perhaps my "thinking" about this was slewed to "galley" storage, rather than overall storage, and as you mentioned your towels, a little light went off over my head!  Why didn't I think of that?!? :D

Thanks again. 

26
Main Message Board / Re: can i see under your nav?
« on: April 23, 2018, 07:16:25 AM »
Hello,
I also added shelves in the locker.  The shelves are fixed.  No slides.  I cut strips of wood and glued them on each side with construction glue under the brand PL.  The shelves can hold boxes of soft drinks.  I've put 3 shelves.

Patrice,  Perfect option.  D'oh!  Sometimes we forget to think outside the "marine box."

That, of course, is another option.

When Al Watson told me about his sliding shelves design idea we discussed this fixed shelving idea.  He made the points that:  1)  the shelves would be deep, so access to the back of the shelves would be difficult;  2)  solid shelves would make it very dark inside, perhaps requiring lighting;  3)  some method of ventilation would be need to avoid mustiness [drilling holes in the shelves would work]; 4) some method would be needed to avoid material falling off the outboard end of the shelves beyond small fiddles.

Those are the reasons Al opted for the open-weave metal shelves.  Having them slide out is an added bonus.

On our trip north from SF in 2016, our slider mechanism packed it in, even with the relatively huge "timbers" I used for the supports; the assembly started leaning enough that the top shelf broke a wire to the VHF radio.  So I screwed a wire tie into the aft wall and tied it all up!  While shelves don't pull out anymore, they still work just fine for storage. 

That's why individual sliders, rather than my choice, seem superior to me.

Your boat, your choice.  :D  There are many ways to do this.  Almost as much fun as saloon tables!

27
Main Message Board / Re: can i see under your nav?
« on: April 20, 2018, 02:41:41 PM »
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
what should i use to adhere wood to fiberglass?

Becki,

In addition to building the drawers in the nav station hanging locker, as shown in the link in one of my earlier posts, I added shelving in the starboard V berth locker.  I used open weave shelves that were wider than the door opening up there, 'cuz those shelves don't slide out.

I do not recommend using glue to install the cleats.  Why?  Because you need to fasten the cleats to the walls of the locker anyway to support them in the interim time while the glue sets up and hardens, which requires some kind of mechanical fasteners.  So, why not just screw or bolt them in to begin with?  :D

There's easy access from both the head side and the saloon side to drill through with bolts.  If you feel the need for waterproofing from the head side, just treat the bolt heads with butyl tape as you tighten them.  You can use finish washers or fender washers.

Your boat, your choice.  :D

28
Chuck,

You remove as much oil as you can.

Then change the filter.

You refill slowly, and keep checking, keep checking, keep checking, keep checking, keep checking, keep checking, keep checking, keep checking, keep checking the dip stick.

It's usually less than 4 quarts (946 ml).  I end up using about 3 1/2 qts.

Then I start the engine, let it run for a short time, shut it down.  Let it sit for 15 minutes, pop the dip stick, wait, reinsert dip stick (may have to clean it off with a paper towel if the level hasn't gone down by itself) and check again.  Sometimes I have to add a little bit more to make up for the oil in the new filter.  Don't overfill.

29
Main Message Board / Re: Ice box gasketing
« on: April 20, 2018, 09:48:01 AM »
Paul,

There is a great deal of merit in Ken's approach:  What is the ROI?

Much depends on what kind of boating you do, and where.  Even if you're a weekend warrior in Florida, there may not be a great deal of improvement.

When we lived in San Francisco, I'd go anchor out for two nights a week usually every other week, for many years. We also often sailed up into the hot California Delta for a week or two in the summers.  I never added insulation to the ice box.  Now that I'm in Canada, the water is 10F colder and so is the air!  :D

Years ago Ron Hill suggested a simple "fix":  put a towel over the top at night or even during the day.  I tried it a few times and found it in the way.  One of the first things we did was add hinges and a hatch holder to the fridge top.

If you add insulation around the box, the top becomes even less of an issue.

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