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Messages - Stu Jackson

#16
If your house bank is full the regulator will not require output. 

Do you have an internal or external regulator?
#17
Main Message Board / Re: Exhaust leak
February 11, 2024, 05:20:20 PM
Quote from: junaido on February 11, 2024, 02:04:44 PMI think Ron also got it out through the aft cabin ?
Junaid

Yes, he did.  But,, please pretty please read my tech note.  I quoted Ron's article and showed with pictures the difficulty I had doing it that way.

I wrote:

Many of the removal articles suggest removing the muffler from the aft cabin hole. So I did. It was a BEAST to do. When the old muffler is moved off its plywood pad and pulled amidships to the area behind the engine, the muffler ports stick up and barely clear the fiberglass lip of the cockpit sole down below. The wiring harness wires are even lower and are very difficult to reach to lift up to clear the ports. After the muffler comes past those obstructions, it is necessary to turn (yank!) it 90 degrees clockwise to get it to come far enough aft to get to the "hole" because of the way the hull is shaped compared to the underside of the aft cabin fiberglass. I strongly urge you to never even bother. If your ports are too long, you will never get it out that way and will waste a lot of time & energy. We learned just how easy it is to replace the new muffler through the head door, which we never bothered to remove. Take the old muffler out through the head door!!! When installing the new muffler have the ports face midships, tilt it in and down and then flat and back over the plywood base. It's that easy.
#18
Main Message Board / Re: Exhaust leak
February 11, 2024, 01:51:14 PM
I didn't even have to take the door off.  Please read my tech note.
#19
Main Message Board / Re: Exhaust leak
February 11, 2024, 10:47:25 AM
NO!  Take the muffler out from under the head sink, NOT the aft cabin hole. 

See my Feb 2016 tech note.
#20
Main Message Board / Re: Reassembly of Cooling System
February 01, 2024, 11:55:42 AM
No need for thread lock, the hoses keep the elbows in place anyway.

I use Lanocote on the inside of all my hose connections.

Sorry late to the party.  :D
#21
Quote from: RaymondP on January 26, 2024, 12:23:03 PM

1.   I believe the 1986 vintage first year of production was the only year Catalina 34s had the desk stepped mast, so there are probably very few around.  Hoping a member with knowledge/experience may be able to help.

2.   Also read that there may be conduit inside the mast for all cabling to be run with the purpose of avoiding noise created by slapping.  This information pertains to other sailboats boats but NOT a Catalina 34.


1.  Not so.  The choice of keel or deck stepped mast was an option, see the price sheet here: https://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Evolution_of_the_Catalina_34   AFAIK, that option remained until the Mark IIs were introduced, all of which are deck stepped.

2.  Yes, there should be conduit inside the mast.  You can check by looking for a line of rivets somewhere on the mast.  And, no about your second sentence here, regardless of what other boats may have done, the Catalina 34 did (should) have conduit.  I have hull #224  1986; for some bizarre reason my PO lived for 12 years with horrible mast slap, so when I took the mast down for re-rigging and a new furler, I found that the factory (!!!) had simply not bothered to use the conduit for the anchor light wire!  Once that was fixed, things became blessedly quiet.  :D
#22
Main Message Board / Re: OIl leak
January 26, 2024, 09:52:37 AM
Quote from: Ted Pounds on January 26, 2024, 04:47:54 AM
If you have a water source you can run the engine.... Just make sure you winterize it again when you're done. 😉

Here's how:

Winterizing an Engine on the Hard (Thanks to Maine Sail) - NEVER connect a hose to your raw water pump inlet - NEVER!!!

https://youtu.be/PKky09u1fGU

Just don't put the engine into fwd or rev when on the hard or you'll kill your cutlass bearing.
#23
I did two hinges like Noah's but laid the outboard ends on the countertop.  I keep the lid up with a spring hatch holder.  I use a spring hatch holder on my nav station desktop, too.
#24
Main Message Board / Re: K75 motor mounts.
January 03, 2024, 08:27:45 PM
Posting and RESIZING Photos 101  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3701.0.html

iPhone Photo Flipping 101  https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,11199.0.html
#25
Quote from: Gulfsailor on December 28, 2023, 04:24:31 PM
Today I received the new Oberdorfer pump.  It doesn't have any mounting holes, just a round base. (See image) Not sure how it's going to be installed in place of the old Sherwood?

Any ideas or do I need to order mounting hardware too?

My old Sherwood may have the flange clamps.....😵‍💫

Re this and your photo in reply #6, I don't know where you got the part # with the 908 from.

This thread has photos of my Oberdorfer and reply #12 in it gives model numbers.
Oberdorfer Pump Rebuild 101 - http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6766.0.html
#26
Quote from: Gulfsailor on December 28, 2023, 07:41:20 AM

>>>>>>

2) I've noticed that the little green light (AC indicator) on the electric switch panel at the nav station is not illuminated. I know we have AC, as the battery charger shows power as do the outlets when I plug in an iPhone charger. Any ideas on what could cause this not to be lit when plugged into shore power? Is there a replacement bulb or diode?

Rick

Rick,

Those little green lights have been notorious for an early death since they first appeared on our electrical panels.  Mine is for DC power IIRC.  Ron Hill wrote about them in the late 80s, noting the 12V ones would die, and he replaced his with a 24V one that lasted longer.  Mine died and I got a replacement from Seaward before they went out of business.  After a year it, too, died.  I just gave up.  You could replace the lamp, replace it with a higher voltage rated one or just live with it.  Your boat, your choice.  "D
#27
Main Message Board / Re: New Catalina 34 Member
December 23, 2023, 04:14:10 PM
Welcome, Rick.  I'm aware of the Ericson owners group and active website/forum.  You'll find the same kind of helpful folks here.
#28
I may have posted these before in this thread, they are in my 101 Topics:

Muffler & Exhaust Riser Replacement 101 (2015 Tech Note with Tips & Tricks)
https://c34.org/muffler-exhaust-riser-replacement-2015/

Westerbeke Nipple Source  https://www.westerbeke.com/Product/NIPPLE/299693
#29
Quote from: tomsoyer on December 09, 2023, 07:23:03 PM

What i meant by what approach did you take with your aqual lift muffler is did you use a hump hose or do anything non standard. Recent post that i saw was unsinging 2  hump hose and a fiberglass elbow. Sounds like you should used a hump hose.

Hump hose should go on the inlet of the muffler - it's the hose from the end of the exhaust riser from the engine; his helps remove vibration from the riser to the hose to the muffler intake port.

The outlet is usually just exhaust hose because it has enough room and doesn't have vibration so it doesn't need a hump hose.  If someone did it to connect to a fiberglass elbow, it's just an elegant but unnecessary solution to a physical arrangement issue.
#30
Main Message Board / Re: Port lens replacements
December 10, 2023, 06:34:51 AM
They are Beckson 5 x 12 if you mean the ones in your cockpit.  Beckson is still in business, Google is your friend.  The 101 Topics has some replacement tips&tricks. 

If the ones on your cabin, those six, an 88 boat could have either Beckson or Lewmar.  If they look like the cockpit ports they're Beckson, if with silver lens trim, they're not.