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Messages - Stu Jackson

Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 553
16
Main Message Board / Re: Which Oberdorfer pump is this?
« on: August 02, 2019, 02:09:54 PM »
Most likely the ubiquitous 202M-15.  Paper gasket against the engine and at the faceplate.  There are newer models that replace the paper gaskets with O rings.

www.depcopump.com

17
Good work.  So that's what it looks like back there...:D

18
Great to hear the good news.  On an overall basis, this is also a great tutorial for others to follow when faced with "new" noises "down below."  Thanks for letting us know.

19
Main Message Board / Re: Alternator Belt Tensioner Home Made
« on: July 18, 2019, 08:37:01 AM »
James, I added a link to the Critical Upgrades tension post to this one.  Thanks.

20
Main Message Board / Re: Starting problem
« on: July 17, 2019, 04:54:36 PM »
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Checked that almost hidden inline fuse and cleaned it and the holder. Added a thin coat of dieelectric grease and  put it together. The first time I hit the starter button I got nothing. Did see volt meter drop. Hit the starter button another time or two and fired up. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Grease on the fuse ends?

21
Main Message Board / Re: Core Repair Under Cowl Vents
« on: July 15, 2019, 06:02:43 PM »
Mike, I, too, rebedded my cowl as the "obvious" first step.  Thought the leak was stopped because the water stopped dripping.  That first rebed was at the Roche Harbor Catalina Rendezvous in May 2017.  Les Troyer and John Shepard were great helpers.  In fact, they were so enthusiastic that I watched them gather the tools (long "blade" on John's power drill, Les working out the butyl tape I'd supplied), that they had the work done before I could ask them to stop and let me even try to help! :clap

The leak, which manifested itself by drips through one of the three screws holding the trim ring in (I removed the ring and saw a smaller version of your cracks), stopped for awhile, only to reappear (when it started raining again).  I tried that again; definition of insanity, right?

Then I did the traveler track.  Stopped, but then it rained, showed up later in the winter and early spring.

I saw Les again in early April this year, demanding my money back as part of the warranty!!!!!! :cry4` :cry4` :cry4`  We both laughed.

He and I traced it down to the fairleads for some of my aft led lines that run back to the cockpit (two small bullet fairleads, small screws, but could be).

The only other thing above that hole inside up on the deck is the hatch wood trim.

It's been dry here for months, no drips.  I can readily believe your results with the hose, but my experience was it took longer to reappear.

I was tempted to just slather Marine Tex inside and stop the drips, but, like you, I want to find the source and stop that.

That's where the link I posted could come in handy.

With my luck, I'll get around to doing that work only once it starts raining again!  Just like when I rebedded my saloon hatch!

Good luck, please keep us posted.

22
Main Message Board / Re: Deck/Hull joint torque
« on: July 14, 2019, 04:02:55 PM »
You really don't need anybody else to tell you anything.  Just tighten it up snug, short of the threshold of pain (for your joints!!!:D) and be done with it.  Really.  The ONLY torque I think is critical are the keel bolts.

Saves a long distance phone call.  Send Ken the $$ you woulda saved.   :D :thumb: :D

PS - added later  Jim, hope I didn't sound harsh.  You're right, I don't EVER recall hearing about this.  Fun to be first?!?  :shock: :clap 

23
Main Message Board / Re: Troubleshoot Xantex Truecharge 20i
« on: July 14, 2019, 02:38:00 PM »
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
What would be a good replacement?  I have the Xantrex Link 1000 battery monitor and been thinking of their charger/inverter as it would take advantage of all the Links functions and capabilities, but I'm open to better ideas.

Hi, George,

Sorry to hear about your woes.  Perhaps you can send a pm or email to John Nixon (jmnpe here) our tech editor who wrote those excellent charger writeups sticky.  You can pm from any one of his posts, or find the email by looking at the page about officers in that sticky - that's why it's there.

Your options seem to be:

1.  Buy Xantrex to match the Xantrex Link 1000

2.  Buy something else, whether it be separate or combined I & C - which is a completely different thought process for you to determine.

Here's my experience and from feedback from extensive reading mostly from cruisersforum:

Stay away from Xantrex.  It is an almost universal blast on them from truly experienced users.  There are much better combined I/Cs out there - Mastervolt & Victron usually pop up as reliable.

That said, you may recall that I have a Heart Freedom 15 combined I/C and a Heart Interface Link 2000.  I bought them both in 1999, put the charger in then and the Link followed a few years later.  The I/C is still fine.  The Link has its issues:  stuck V button just last week and the backlighting went out a few years ago.  Otherwise it works just fine.

However, I DO LIKE coulomb counters, regardless of what Maine Sail says, because I KNOW how it works and have adjusted the default values and wrote "The Gotcha" article about it, thanks to Rich Stidger and Donalex on sbo.com.

Many folks still don't know how to use them.  They are NOT simple fuel gauges, one HAS to understand how batteries work to get the most out of coulomb counters, regardless of make, and Victron's BMV series is very good, reliable and easier to install than a Link.

If my Link fails, I may, just may, get a Victron BMV.  So far it's back up and running, but we'll see.  Then I'd have to run my charger/inverter manually which is not hard to do.

My understanding of reality is that it is not if, but when, your Link WILL FAIL.   Do NOT whatever you do, base your decision on a charger/inverter because of your Link.  That's just bassackwards. 

I had an issue just this week on a cruise, necessitating a Link unit reset and reprogramming which I could NOT have done with the just the Link 2000 manual (which of course I have at home, on my computer and a hardcopy on the boat) UNLESS, as I had,  downloaded a 1996 Xantrex service bulletin, which actually explained how to do it!!!  And I'm the one who keeps saying RTFM!  :D

I'm glad my stuff is Heart, NOT Xantrex, who took them over and still doesn't know how they work!

Maine Sail's been flogging the new Balmar SG200 (?) but I'm not convinced yet (read cruisersforum on that in their electrical forum) and I LIKE coulomb counters.  Just getting a % SoC and SoH just doesn't do it for me, and I can tell you with my eyes closed what the DC amp draw is if you tell me what's running, to the 100th decimal place!  :D  My friend who I cruised with this week has it, I'm still not convinced.  The key to battery charging and coulomb counters is NOT what you take out, that's easy and linear.  It's what you put back in, and of course associated with battery acceptance, as well as absorption time in the Gotcha algorithm.

And then one gets into the old sawhorse: an I/C puts all your eggs in one basket; what size charger and inverter do you really need, etc.  Those are questions only YOU can answer, because it all depends on how YOU use YOUR boat, not mine.

Your boat, your choice, good luck.  :D      Hi to Kim.

ps - 7/17  Inverters: 
Quote
Look at a Magnum, what drove me mostly to them was Iíve not heard of anyone having a failure, but if they did, the cards are easily trouble shot and relatively inexpensive.
   from a64pilot on CF

24
Main Message Board / Re: Core Repair Under Cowl Vents
« on: July 13, 2019, 11:14:50 PM »
Noah, good points, I should have been more clear.  In my case, there was water dripping through those cracks in the "tube."  That's why we had to trace it down to some source.  I rebedded the cowl.  No luck.  I rebedded the traveler track.  No luck.  It's simply a process of elimination t identify what's UP THERE...:D

If there are only cracks and no water, it's purely cosmetic, and all I'd do is slather MarineTex on it and call it a day.  In my case, I needed to find the source of the water ingress to avoid the water's egress through those cracks.  (I should be so lucky...:D)

25
Main Message Board / Re: Core Repair Under Cowl Vents
« on: July 13, 2019, 05:56:53 PM »
I've got the same condition on my port vent.  Finally traced it down to, most likely (we think, Les Troyer the C36 tech editor and I), the wood around the sliding hatch. 

I'm currently praying for no rain, even though we desperately need some!!!  :cry4` :cry4` :cry4`

Here's a very good discussion about that wood trim:

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7191.0.html

26
Main Message Board / Re: Circulating Water Pump (anti-freeze)
« on: July 13, 2019, 01:17:33 PM »
Ken,

Didn't you recently do a very good writeup here on the parts number(s) for that pump?

Would it be possible for you to find that thread and post a link to your excellent presentation?

27
Main Message Board / Re: AC outlets not working
« on: July 08, 2019, 03:20:12 PM »
Dare I say RTFM??? :D

Unless your PO(s) made changes to the AC power/wiring, the manuals for each version of our boats show how the wiring goes from main AC breaker to individual outlets.

As mentioned some have GFCIs as the first in each string.

My AC power went out on our trip up the coast in 2016, my son had leaned against the GFCI I put in the V berth.  I hit the reset and on buttons and was back in business.

If YOU know about wiring and splicing, sure, make sure it's good.  If not, get help.

Good luck.

28
Main Message Board / Re: Draining a DAHL 100
« on: July 04, 2019, 08:41:00 AM »
Good that you have.  The Dahl filters aren't as prevalent, and IIRC were only used on earlier boats before they switched to Racor.

Have you looked through the Knowledgebase for old Mainsheet articles which might mention them?

Good luck.

29
Main Message Board / Re: Hoisting mainsail singlehanded
« on: July 04, 2019, 08:36:53 AM »
Kevin and others,

This question of "From where do I raise the main?" has been around since 1986, it really is a very early question that came up in Mainsheet magazine in one of the earliest editions after the C34 began production.

Because of the friction on the halyard from the sheave, the mast base and the deck organizers, some skippers reported back that they found it easier to raise the main from the mast.  Also, please remember, this is back when a 34 foot boat was considered HUGE and was always sailed with crew.

What happened is that some intrepid singlehanders found that the same was true and merely developed techniques and useful hardware to do so with less steps.

No one right way for all.

Your boat, your choice.  :D

30
Main Message Board / Re: Draining a DAHL 100
« on: July 03, 2019, 09:20:03 PM »
Draining a closed vessel usually requires opening a vent.

Suggest you check their website for instructions.

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