Cutlass bearing tool

[Indian Falls]

Hello members!  I have gotten a message about my bearing install tool recently.
Yes it is available and has been refurbished. Anyone needing to replace their strut bearing is welcome to use my tool. It is not a strut pro, it's easier to use and there is no rental.  Just contact me at servolaz@rochester.rr.com with your ship to address and have at it!  My mobile is +17166282923. It's the least I can do paying forward for the info available on the C34.org.
It's my pleasure!

[Stu Jackson]

Just a cross reference to another resource.  Thx Indian Falls.

https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,10843.0.html

[Sailing Amok]

I now have the tool. Just waiting for my bearing to arrive, and I can ship it off to the next customer. Thanks again for making this Indian Falls!

[CaptainPeelGood]

Hi,

I've got a frozen cutlass bearing and it won't budget. I tried machining my own tool with steel plates and 3/8" rods, and am finding that I am bending the double steel plates on either end as I try to get the bearing out. as I tighten it up. Any recommendations? I hate to have to drop the rudder. The shaft is free, but cannot clear the rudder.

I'd be interested in getting access to the group's tool. I see the design is similar but more reinforced than mind with the double bracing.

I'm near Annapolis if anyone else has recommendations of who might be able to help with this problem.

Thank you,

Gene
Seventh Heaven
1988 C34

[waughoo]

Gene... forgive me if you already checked this... some struts (haven't removed my cutlass since puchasing my boat) have set scres to hold the cutlass bearing in the strut.  If those are screwed into the bearing, it could cause it not to come out with a bearing removal tool.

[Noah]

Zoom in and notice set screws to hold in cutlass on new strut.

[Sailing Amok]

Gene,
Let me know if you'd like the tool sent, or if you end up getting the job done with the one you made.
Aaron

[CaptainPeelGood]

Hi Aaron,

I think I've given up on trying to press it out. I'm worried I will damage the strut in the process and worked out some of the rubber thinking I might be able to get enough clearance to remove the shaft. I was successful removing the rubber, but now the press has very little material to press against. Dumb mistake in hindsight.

WRT the set screw, I've brushed the struct down to the brass and do not see any sign of holes.

So I think I'm going to drop the rudder so I can cut it out. Probably should start a new post asking for advice on dropping the rudder. Any advice on dropping the rudder. I see there is a cap, I need to remove, something I need to do with the Edson steering disk (possibly completely remove it), and then loosen compression bearing/stuffing box. Does that sound right?

Thanks,

Gene

[Noah]

Have you tried a using heat (aka a torch) on the strut?

[CaptainPeelGood]

Hi Noah,

I have not, but was thinking about trying that. Would a heat gun work? Or are you suggesting an actual propane torch?

[Noah]

Propane torch.

[CaptainPeelGood]

How do you apply it and how hot do you go? Brass starts to have structural change at 495F and annuals around 700F from what I've read. Do you heat the outside of the strut while under tension of a puller? Thanks!

[Noah]

I am no expert. I have seen it used to remove props and cutlass but have never done it, nor needed to, myself. Check with reputable shipyard, machine shop, propeller shop, and/or other sources. BTW— the strut is bronze not brass. It will expand when heated. On the opposite note, many put their cutlass bearing in the freezer so it "shrinks" prior to installing it.

[KWKloeber]

Gene

I have some experience in this (not trying to sell anything but we sell hearings and rent two tools to change them, and have helped probably 50 owners from 27-ft Catalinas to 40-ft powerboats, and a dozen different manufacturers.)  Our Rental Agreement "requires" that before renting the owner properly prep the strut/bearing. That entails repeatedly alternating heat (torch) and a penetrant (Blaster, acetone mix, whatever) several times. 

We even had a C30 owner who soaked the strut/bearing for a week while waiting for the tool to free up.  He formed a hammock of Blaster-filled baggie around the shaft/strut.

Other than obvious user error (like a C&C owner who knowingly pushed one with a seized setscrew in place,) there has been only one time the bearing did not come out (a salt water boat that the owner had no clue about when it was ladt changed.)

Alternating heat is a must because the expansion/contraction helps break free corrosion and/or possible galvanic corrosion.

Using heat just before pushing out the old is also important.  At least two users' brothers were welders and used acetylene torch.

Your pushing out the rubber has no "bearing" on the success, or lack of.  Our bearings are among the worst. The super thin brass shell can be a nightmare to keep the collets from diving into the rubber. 

We use a clamp around them to keep the center from buckling under high pressure.

I attached the instructions for one tool that perhaps might help you.

Heat - heat - heat.