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Messages - Stu Jackson

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Ken's right, that looks suspiciously like the green DC power lights on our older electrical panels on our early mid-80's boats.  Those 12V lamps were notorious for failing.  Ron Hill wrote about it, and he suggested replacing the constantly burning out 12V lamps with 24V lamps.  I bought two of the 12V ones from Seaward before they went belly up.  The one I put in lasted only a year or two.  I still have another one, but why bother? :D


See here if you want info on helping out Coasties in need during this Washington idiocy:  :twisted:


Nice thought.  But we don't do politics here.  The idiocy is not Washington, it is a specific singular group of only two individuals.  But we don't do politics here.

Main Message Board / Re: Propeller reconditioning
« on: Yesterday at 10:45:10 AM »
It's interesting to see that brand new anode on your strut. My strut has no anode, and I've always wondered if it should, since it seems to be isolated from the rest of the drivetrain. (Since getting the boat I've coated it with Pettit's zinc paint.) Do others here have anodes on their struts? Is there a Tech Note on how to properly install an anode there?

There is no tech note that I recall on strut anodes.  I just checked the Knowledgebase for both strut and anode, nothing.

This is basic stuff not related specifically to C34s.  Any diver and/or qualified boat yard should do this without even asking.

Calder's most likely discusses it, too.

Main Message Board / Re: Electrical Advice Please
« on: January 13, 2019, 09:37:18 AM »

Whenever somebody asks AGMs?, I refer them to the Electrical Systems 101 topic.  Jon's right, Maine Sail knows:

AGM Batteries - Making The Choice (from Maine Sail)

AGM Battery Issues and the Blue Seas Dual Circuit Switch (from Maine Sail) "DARN AGM Batteries"

Additional Observations on the Limits of AGMs,5977.msg63004.html#msg63004

Your boat, your choice. :D

As far as the hinged door idea, I think it is very suspect and subject to all sorts of problems.  Moving big wires - what could go wrong?  As Jon said, there are other places to put stuff outside the battery box, all it takes is a little longer wire, and since your's are so big anyway, voltage drop should not be an issue.

Breakin Away, try it now.
Thanks, Stu, I look forward to trying it. But I'm going to hold off on entering any credentials until the website security issue has been explained:,10100.0.html

From Dave this morning:

Still need to find some time (few more hours) to take another crack at
the mediawiki plugin to support SMF/BBS user login... apparently it's
not easy to get them working and I don't want to break either the wiki
or bbs with a bad config.  (feel free to remind me about this in a few
days / week or so)

Main Message Board / Re: Website not secure
« on: January 08, 2019, 10:29:05 AM »
I emailed our webmaster notifying him of your concerns first thing this morning.  Thanks for letting us know.

Main Message Board / Re: Steam in exhaust M35B
« on: January 07, 2019, 03:49:35 PM »

6. Replace or repair anything suspect from above inspections.  When replacing exhaust hose use nylon (not wire) reinforced hose.

You're welcome, Ray.  Slight edit here:  You NEED EXHAUST hose for that exhaust, specifically made called "exhaust hose."  It IS wire reinforced.  From the muffler to the transom.

You need silicone reinforced hose from the exhaust riser metal tube to the muffler inlet.  This short piece is what we call HUMP HOSE.

Main Message Board / Re: Steam in exhaust M35B
« on: January 07, 2019, 10:33:45 AM »
Should I plan on doing some routine /preventative maintenance to either the exhaust riser, anti-siphon valve, aqualift muffler, or exhaust hose?

Ray, not naive at all.

The exhaust riser is rarely an issue because the water injection through the nipple is straightforward so rarely gets "clogged" or blocked.  What does happen is a failure at the weld, which you can visually inspect regularly.

Anti-siphon valve can be removed and cleaned and the rubber duck bill replaced if you suspect any failure.

Muffler usually fails at the ports, unless you use hump hose.  Otherwise no moving parts.

Exhaust hose usually has a shelf life.  If it leaks (air, soot) replace it.

From: David Sanner
> Sent: Sun Jan 6, 2019 8:19 PM
> To: Ken Kloeber; Stu Jackson
> Subject: Re: Wiki HELP
> I believe I have it fixed now...
> Once logged into to the BBS the wiki should pull in your account info.
> -d

Breakin Away, try it now.


Dave Sanner, our superb webmaster, reports that his extensive digging indicates a linking code issue.

He's working on it.

Thanks, Dave

Just as a followup, I logged out of the wiki and just successfully logged back in following those instructions.  It does work.


Please stop with credentials and all that unnecessary complication.

1.  Go to any Tech wiki page

2.  Go to bottom of page, click on the link where it says: Edit this page at the source:

3.  Top of page click on Log In or Edit if your computer saved your un & pw.  Un & pw are the same as those you use for this forum.

Please let us know if you have any issues with this procedure.

Breakin Away:  I understand your frustration.  I have contacted our webmaster and asked him to look into your posts here about this issue you're having.

Main Message Board / Re: Propeller reconditioning
« on: January 05, 2019, 03:05:34 PM »
...or maybe it's time to think about a feathering/folding prop. Which brand do you guys like best? I want a design that also reverses effectively, since it's critical for dock maneuvering.

"Best" rarely works when talking about boats, which are inherently compromises, right?

I'd bet that if you typed "feathering+props" in the search bar you'd find lots and lots of comments.  Which, inherently, would be all over the place, for different and individual reasons.  There haven't been any new ones made in many years.

Good luck.


Did that process change at some point?


Could someone who has edit privileges for the wiki please create a page explaining, in detail, how a new user can set up an account and log in? Our wiki doesn't seem to allow edits unless you're on some special "User" list. And this instruction definitely does not seem to work, since it will not accept my login credentials:

Anyone may read the topics. If you wish to add content to the wiki you must log in. Use the same user name and password that you use to access the forum.

You have answered your own question.

Forget mediawiki, KISS.

1.  Go to the wiki, usually from the link at the top of this page, or from the home page.

2.  Find any wiki page.  Top right of the page, Edit.  Go to the bottom of the Wordpress page you're on, will say To Edit original, click on that link.

3.  To REPEAT [sorry about the yelling:D]:  Use the same user name and password that you use to access the forum.

4.  Edit or create, SAVE button at the bottom of the page.

The only "trick" is to go from the Wordpress page to the original wiki page, which it suggests that you do when you scroll to the bottom of any WP page.

There are no wiki editor "privileges," whoever is on the forum can edit or create wiki pages.

I sincerely apologize for any confusion.  A few years ago we moved the original wiki pages to Wordpress for a number of reasons, few of which saw their intended fruition because the individual who did so much work in a helpful manner sold her C34. 

In any event, it is only one click more than it had ever been.

Thanks for bringing up the issues you had.  Hope this solves them, if not, just keep asking.

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