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Messages - Stu Jackson

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 535
1
Main Message Board / Re: Smartgauge
« on: Yesterday at 06:09:00 PM »
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
The benefits of a Smartgauge and a coulomb counter. It looks pretty promising.

'bout time.  :D:D:D

Thanks, Mick, for the link.  Great read.  Betcha Maine Sail prompted them...

2
Main Message Board / Re: arm on a 1986 vberth hatch
« on: October 14, 2018, 02:04:34 PM »
i broke off the white headed screw top (with set screw) >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

If you're talking about the plastic handle, one of two, that tightens the hatch in the (full &) upright position :D, mine disintegrated years ago.  I replaced them both with wing nuts.

3
Main Message Board / Re: Furling line blocks and fairleads suggestions?
« on: October 14, 2018, 08:38:17 AM »
I have a small block on the pulpit, led to Johnson bullseye fairleads on the outside of the stanchions, to a small non-ratcheting Ronstan block at the base of the pushpit, tied off to a pushpit mounted cleat.  Outside is clearer, sheaves aren't needed, I'd thought about a ratcheting block but after twenty years still haven't put one on.  My largest headsail is a 110 on a ProFurl LCI32.  I sailed 18 years on SF Bay with this system before we moved here in 2016.

4
Main Message Board / Re: Smartgauge
« on: October 12, 2018, 09:31:54 AM »
Roc (and others coming to this party late!:D),

It looks like Maine Sail posted the diagram, then you had a question, it appears to me that he removed the original diagram you had properly questioned, and has now replaced it with a corrected version.

That's for those of you wondering what Roc was asking about without opening Roc's PDF attached file.

5
Main Message Board / Re: Boom Gooseneck
« on: October 10, 2018, 03:42:23 PM »
Thanks, Dave.  I just added your link to the Critical Upgrades post.

6
Main Message Board / Re: Smartgauge
« on: October 10, 2018, 12:27:57 PM »
Your multiple batteries are a BANK.  The SG gets wired to the + and - of the BANK.  Not the individual batteries.

7
Main Message Board / Re: Boom Gooseneck
« on: October 10, 2018, 07:47:49 AM »
From page 3 of the Critical Upgrades topic:

Gooseneck Failure

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7127.0.html


Also includes some ideas for improving the arrangement.

https://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/957/gooseneck-casting-assy--c-28-c-30-c-34-c-36.cfm

Ken Heyman also reports tons of hits on a simple search on "gooseneck."


8
I do not have a hatch in our head, do have a solar vent and an opening port.  That port is NOT a Beckson, it is a Gray Enterprises model, which I think all C34s have if they came that way from the factory.  Gray is represented by Pompanette in Florida, and sbo.com has replacement parts.

9
Main Message Board / Re: exhaust header
« on: September 27, 2018, 11:28:28 AM »
Don't mess with the studs unless absolutely necessary, that means absolutely.  Get new nuts, that's easy.

10
Main Message Board / Re: Anchor saver
« on: September 25, 2018, 09:54:14 AM »
Stu - Could you post a link to the CF thread you're referring to? >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Mick,

Took me little less than an hour to find, I used "trip+line" --- try this one:

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f118/using-an-anchor-marker-179539.html

11
Main Message Board / Re: macerator pump
« on: September 23, 2018, 06:07:17 PM »
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

 Prices are all over the map.

Suggestions?  Help!


Mark,

I had to replace my old one a few years ago.  I did the research and determined that Shurflo is a better pump than Jabsco - better materials, looks identical, dimensions the same.  Internet comparative shopping.

Pumps: macerator   9/9/2013   Jamestown Distrib.   Shurflo   $159.51    
Model 3200-001
 

Only better one I've heard of is a Johnson pump, don't know the details, never went that high up the food chain.

Other choice is a diaphragm pump, won't fit in that hole, so new hosing would be required.  Yucky.

Good luck.

12
Main Message Board / Re: exhaust header
« on: September 23, 2018, 03:40:29 PM »
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

oh and the bolts on the damn riser are in such an awkward position, it might have been easier to pull it out.  ugh, i'm getting too old to contort in these positions

I've included some handy tips & tricks for just that here:

http://c34.org/muffler-exhaust-riser-replacement-2015/

13
Main Message Board / Re: vibration isolating shaft coupling
« on: September 20, 2018, 01:44:54 PM »
Thanks Stu,
I am a bit concerned about the full strength injector cleaner. Though it probably mixes with diesel as it gets pump to through the fuel system. If you guys have been doing this as a regular maintenance then I shouldn't be worried.

Thanks again.

Dale, think about How It Works when you're bleeding.  With your "self-bleeding" engine, just get the fuel pump running without starting the engine and it will pump the injector cleaner straight through the system.  What you are doing is placing a "good and helpful" liquid into the system to avoid an air bubble.

In your case, IIRC, getting the fuel pump to operate without starting the engine, though, requires you to turn the key to energize the glow plugs.  You don't want to do that for too long.  This issue is discussed at great length in the links in Critical Upgrades [http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5078.msg41829.html#msg41829].  It's simply how your engine is wired.

In my case, with my NOT self-bleeding engine, I can start the fuel pump operation by turning the key switch ON and NOT starting the engine without energizing the glow plugs.

In any event, it simply doesn't matter, because in less than maybe half a minute (the longest you'd want the glow plugs on without starting the engine anyway) the slug of injector cleaner is gone through the system.  And the injector cleaner will be mixed with incoming fuel once the pump starts.

Not an issue.  Again, what you are avoiding is an air bubble in the system.  People used to say "Put diesel fuel into the Racor first," to eliminate the air.  All we're saying is that it is more helpful and far easier to use a liquid from a plastic bottle than try to get diesel into the Racor.  And a LOT less smelly if you spill any.  :D

14
Main Message Board / Re: Anchor saver
« on: September 20, 2018, 01:28:47 PM »
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

After buying the anchor I read using the slot in the anchor shank to avoid fouling can cause the anchor to release if there is a tide shift. No idea if it's true or not.

It is true.

In my reading on www.cruisersforum.com, it was the consensus of the very experienced skippers there that having any second line in the water other than your anchor rode will, not may, will, complicate evacuation of your anchorage just when you need to leave in haste.  Not a good thing.

The only application of Andre's OP would be if he was constantly, repeatedly and "usually" losing his anchorS in his normal sailing/anchoring grounds.  If so, suggesting he move may not be an option.  We don't know if he has other options, like a close-by but better anchoring spot.

15
Main Message Board / Re: vibration isolating shaft coupling
« on: September 17, 2018, 08:03:41 PM »
Hi Stu, Jim and Ron,
I've looked for blogs about cleaning the injectors by filling up the Racor with a cleaner. Not very successful but then I'm not so skilled in searching. The cleaners of choice are PS, Lutrun and maybe SeaFoam.

My plan is:
1) Shut off ball valve to tank
2) Drain the Racor bowl
3) Unscrew plastic container and fill it with cleaner or find other path to fill the Racor bowl with cleaner
4) Open ball valve to the tank
5) Check for leaks
6) Start her up

Is it that simple?

Thanks
Dale

Yes, it's that simple, but your #3 should be: Screw the plastic bowl underneath the new filter, fill both, screw new filter onto housing.

Covered in the Bleeding 101.

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