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Messages - Stu Jackson

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 523
1
Main Message Board / Re: Balmar SmartGauge on sale for $180
« on: January 19, 2018, 04:32:32 PM »
So it begs the question why WM is clearance-ing these? 
I wonder if a new version is on the horizon?

Given the simplicity of the SG and its proprietary algorithms, I doubt there's anything new to be seen.

WM?  Too busy selling ugly shirts.

2
I may have posted this elsewhere, source for alternators:

http://www.ase-supply.com/Prestolite_Leece_Neville_Alternators_and_Starter_Motors_s/142.htm

Call them for selection details and also current prices.  They advised me to order by internet even though they would take phone orders but by phone costs more for the same thing.  Don't ask me why?!?  :D

3
Noah's system is very good.  I recommend you review the "Electrical 101" topic, which includes sources for alternators as well as wiring.  One of the things we found most important is to make your 1-2-B switch into a USE only one, rather than one that also directs the charging.  This means that the alternator output (AO) goes to the house bank.

They don't make the Balmar MC-612 anymore, replaced with the MC-614.

4
Main Message Board / Re: Head faucet hose fell off
« on: January 16, 2018, 11:59:57 AM »
You can most likely find a nice single lever faucet with an extension for a shower head at Home Depot.

We've found a simple shutoff valve works great for showering without having the modify the water temperature with the faucet(s).  Like this one:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4174.0.html

5
Main Message Board / Re: How many catilina 34 where made
« on: January 15, 2018, 09:19:28 AM »
1,800 or 1,801

6
Main Message Board / Re: Accessing M35BC starter and solenoid
« on: January 07, 2018, 08:13:37 AM »
John,

In a Tech Note many years ago, Lou Berman wrote that he installed a small door on the starboard side to access the oil dipstick on his brand new Mark II.

Seems that the factory "forgot" that great feature that ALL Mark I boats had had since the very first year of production.

Maybe they just "forgot" your port side alternator access door in the head?   :cry4`

Anybody else with a Mark II that doesn't have a small door in the head to the engine?  (I never looked for one on friends' Mark IIs.)

7
Main Message Board / Re: Drive belt woes
« on: January 04, 2018, 08:29:24 PM »
.................................
.................................

 I didn't find the Wiki reference for that tool, is it like the one I link to above?

Thanks.

Paul

Paul,

It's in the Critical Upgrades.

Yes, that's the thing.  :D

8
Main Message Board / Re: Oberdorfer Pump Indentification
« on: January 04, 2018, 08:27:01 PM »
If the carbon bushing is OK, just leave it, put the new seals in, and call it a day.  No need for anything in between the seals. You WANT that to be clear above the weep hole so any oil or water that gets out you WILL see.  Don't block it with anything.  KISS  :D

9
Main Message Board / Re: Blocked Heat Exchange Discharge Fitting
« on: January 04, 2018, 01:52:00 PM »
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
I can unblock the fitting, but I'm trying to figure out a way to prevent it. One possible solution I'm considering is to rig up a fresh water flushing system so I can clean out the HX before shutdown. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Hugh,

I've learned that often additional "add-ons" have unintended consequences with sometimes bad results.

Given the "work" involved in removing and replacing the HX once very three to five years, based on what I see from my operating temperature and the zincs, I wouldn't recommend it.

My effort went into installing the larger HX.

Your boat, your choice.  :D

PS - I have a 180F thermostat with both a 160F and a 180F as backups.

10
Main Message Board / Re: Oberdorfer Pump Indentification
« on: January 04, 2018, 09:02:59 AM »
Paul,

101 topics again:

Oberdorfer Pump Rebuild 101 - http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6766.0.html [Link added to main page of C34 Tech wiki]

That wiki may be the one Ken noted.

11
Main Message Board / Re: Floor Replacement
« on: January 03, 2018, 09:57:09 PM »
Roland,

That flooring is shown in the Mark II brochures, here:  http://www.c34.org/images/c34_98_brochure_2.jpg

You should be able to blow up the page 2 photo to see it in more detail.  Was standard on the Mark II galley soles.

12
Main Message Board / Re: Blocked Heat Exchange Discharge Fitting
« on: January 03, 2018, 05:32:54 PM »
Hugh, it could be that I got it bass-ackwards and the salt drops out after the water cools down.  It's been awhile since I practied my engineering heat transfer.  As to why it's deep inside, I do not know.

End result is almost identical:  a pile of crud inside, at or near the port.

Solutions is also identical:  remove HX and check ports.  :D

Nice engine, it's only the second one I've seen out like that.  Great job on the oil breather hose, too.

13
Main Message Board / Re: Rigging replacement
« on: January 03, 2018, 02:38:05 PM »
When this topic comes up, one response is: "It's just like reefing:  If you think about doing it, you simply should."  :D :D :D

14
Main Message Board / Re: Blocked Heat Exchange Discharge Fitting
« on: January 03, 2018, 02:30:17 PM »
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
through the HX through the hose from the raw water pump. My question is WHY IS BLOCKAGE OCCURRING AT THIS FITTING?



Hugh, some further thoughts on this ^^^^ in particular. 

The inlet from the raw water pump is cold(er) seawater.  That point is where it FIRST hits the really hot engine coolant at the HX.  The raw water is in the shell, with the coolant in the tubes.  As the raw water hits the hot shell at that inlet is where the first salt "dropouts" tend to "hang out."   :D :D :D

As Ed says, it is not limited to the 2" HXs and I've mentioned it a number of times here on the forum, as well as in some of my Secretary reports in Mainsheet magazine.  I recommend removing the HX periodically - everyone has a different zinc disintegration rate.  In California from  1998 to 2016 I was changing zincs every three or four months.  So I removed the HX maybe every two or three years, usually when I was doing other engine work, like the muffler and riser replacement (in Tech Notes, probably sometime in 2016).  Here in British Columbia's Gulf Islands I have found zinc replacement necessary only every six months, or double the time between changes from California!!!  So, I figure sometime in 2019 I'll have to do it again.   :D  It's not a bad idea to do so, since you'll want to remove and replace coolant at the same time.  Rather than having the coolant run out until it reaches level with the bottom hose outlet (some remains in the manifold) I drain it into a bucket from the Toyota 90 degree elbow under the coolant pump, with a photo as shown on the "How to Burp Your Engine" in the 101 topics thread.  Sometimes I keep the coolant and pour it back in, other times I use it as an opportunity to replace the coolant, or most of it at least.  I also have never had any issues with tubes, since the water flows so quickly through them, of course using the engine a lot helps.  :D  I think I am on my second 3" HX, 'cuz the first one's shell got punctured by a broken support bracket that I discussed with photos in the "Good Guys from Sendure" topic (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6920.0.html), also in the 101 Series.  I got the second HX from Seakamp in 2012 ($488), the first one was from Universal purchased in 2001 and installed in 2003 ($300).

15
Main Message Board / Re: Blocked Heat Exchange Discharge Fitting
« on: January 03, 2018, 08:44:13 AM »
Do you sail in salt water?  If so, it is the salt precipitating out.  I had this issue with our 2" HX when we bought our boat in 1998.  I eventually upgraded to a 3" HX.

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