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 1 
 on: Yesterday at 10:30:23 PM 
Started by NewToTheRoad - Last post by Jon W
Agree. The adjustment is done before latching.

 2 
 on: Yesterday at 09:10:01 PM 
Started by NewToTheRoad - Last post by Stu Jackson
If your asking how to adjust the white plastic cam that you flip up or down to seal the port closed, on mine the white plastic cam is threaded onto a metal t-bolt. Rotate the white plastic cam clockwise or counterclockwise to increase or decrease the pressure against the port.

What I do is rotate the cam before I latch it.  I have a mix of the old simpler screw handles plus some of the cams.  They operate differently.  I try not to rotate the cams after they latch.

Beckson shows how to on their website.

 3 
 on: Yesterday at 07:09:58 PM 
Started by Rortega46 - Last post by mark_53
Mark_53, your are correct... I need more troubleshooting. Especially for the inoperable refrigerator.  Problem is I got sidetracked by a battery with a bad cell, concerns about a battery charger, and finally CO alarms while trying to sleep last weekend.  For now the refrigerator is off until it's problems are diagnosed and resolved.  The existing 20A battery charger has been in float mode on and off this week after short recovery times following a couple of outings.  The CO alarms while sleeping last week are still a concern, but have not recurred for a week. 

I plan to get a tech to look at the fridge for a diagnosis this coming week.   I recognize the 20A battery charger is undersized for the existing batteries and will probably replace it after the refrigerator issue is resolved.  If CO alarms come back, I'll need to figure out why and how to eliminate them. 

The Yat is wired like the owner's manual shows, except I now have two 6V batteries replacing each of the original 4Ds and there are 30A breakers between the battery charger and each battery bank.  I attach the diagraham in case someone wants to comment or suggest an alternative.

Oh, the joys of boat ownership and the never ending quest to learn new things.

So it sounds like your charger is working as expected.  As far as wiring goes, I added a dedicated start battery and combined in parallel the batteries in the salon battery box into one house bank. Added an ACR in the battery box to isolate the start and house banks.  I would recommend the same.
Here's what I did.

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,8790.msg63977.html#msg63977


 4 
 on: Yesterday at 05:15:46 PM 
Started by Luana - Last post by Jim Hardesty
Quote
On our MK1, the blower only comes on when the key is on (and the blower switch is on).
 

Same for my MKll.  I routed the breather hose to the air cleaner box and always run the blower when motoring.  My hot oil/diesel smell has been gone for years.

Jim


 5 
 on: Yesterday at 02:31:54 PM 
Started by NewToTheRoad - Last post by Jon W
If your asking how to adjust the white plastic cam that you flip up or down to seal the port closed, on mine the white plastic cam is threaded onto a metal t-bolt. Rotate the white plastic cam clockwise or counterclockwise to increase or decrease the pressure against the port.

 6 
 on: Yesterday at 02:16:30 PM 
Started by SV Pretty Lady - Last post by Ron Hill
SV : The fan should only run when the compressor is running and maybe for a few minutes after it shuts off to cool it down.

Also look on line and you'll find a battery operated fan for inside the fridge to circulate the air!!

A few thoughts

 7 
 on: Yesterday at 11:47:08 AM 
Started by SV Pretty Lady - Last post by KWKloeber
For mold remediation (houses, apts, etc.) the accepted practice now is Hydrogen Peroxide.  That's as of 2014 -- the owner had to do a mold remediation in a basement that had flooded in a house we wanted to rent.  Held us up 3 months moving in.

You can get a test done if you REALLY want to know if it's "mold" (there are all types, some dangerous some not)  but who cries - just clean it up?

-k

 8 
 on: Yesterday at 10:40:08 AM 
Started by SV Pretty Lady - Last post by Noah
I agree with bilge cleaner and bleach. But do not leave bleach-laden standing water in the bilge as it could cause problems with corrosion of your stainless steel keel bolts. I also donít think the oil breather would cause that amount of ďcrudĒ. Are you sure the boat didnít have a flooding/sinking issue before you owned it?

 9 
 on: Yesterday at 10:18:51 AM 
Started by SV Pretty Lady - Last post by Ed Shankle
Whether mold, mildew or algae, the traditional cleaner is bleach and tsp in a water solution. However, Practical Sailor made a case in the past year or so for tsp, borax and baking soda as an all purpose cleaner. Saves having the exposure to bleach fumes. Iíve started using it and it works. Although you may need the high octane solution! Try it first, if it doesnít work, go to the bleach solution.

Regards,
Ed

 10 
 on: Yesterday at 08:41:39 AM 
Started by NewToTheRoad - Last post by Susan Ray
Aloha,
Read this and installed...how do I back off the dogs?  Looks like they are not adjustable.
Thanks

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