Recent posts
#1
Main Message Board / Re: Input on Replacing Dodger ...
Last post by Noah - Today at 04:10:53 PMSTU- I probably should have better factored height into my calculus when buying my current dodger—built to fit my old existing frame. I failed to acknowledge that I had personally shrunk at least an inch over the past 9-years! Now, when standing at the helm, I either scrunch down to look through it or stand on my toes to look over it. ;-)
#2
Main Message Board / Re: Input on Replacing Dodger ...
Last post by Stu Jackson - Today at 03:10:18 PMFWIW, there are two types of dodger designs. One is called "California Style" and I forget the name of the other. When my dodger glass started to go before I moved to Canada in 2016, I had my local dodger guy come take a look. The glass was going, but the Sunbrella was just fine. The dodger was a one piece job that I really liked. He came up with a great fix. He added strategic zippers so that the front, the two side panels and the top are now separate pieces, so if one went I could replace just the parts not the whole dodger. While I haven't had to since he did this work back in May 2015 for the new dodger I had built in July 2004, it is something for everyone to consider when building a new dodger.
There's also a 101 Topic on dodger height everyone should read.
There's also a 101 Topic on dodger height everyone should read.
#3
Main Message Board / Re: Input on Replacing Dodger ...
Last post by waughoo - Today at 02:21:22 PMScott,
I have the Markalon lenses in my dodger. They really are fantastic. They hold the shape of the dodger and don't wrinkle like other options. It is fantastic, but now that I have it, I won't go any other way.
I have the Markalon lenses in my dodger. They really are fantastic. They hold the shape of the dodger and don't wrinkle like other options. It is fantastic, but now that I have it, I won't go any other way.
#4
Main Message Board / Re: Input on Replacing Dodger ...
Last post by Ron Hill - Today at 01:49:15 PMGuys : I've used the vinyl and keep the "front window" unzipped so I can pull it UNDER the dodger and secure it with short bungy cords on the aft dodger hand rail. Under the dodger keeps it from getting scratched and in position to be quickly zipped back down because of a rainstorm !! 
A few thoughts
A few thoughts
#5
Main Message Board / Re: PlasTeak Handrail Replacem...
Last post by Ted Pounds - Today at 12:06:27 PMPlasTeak and PlasDeck on my Gloucester 19. Used the original fasteners for the hand rails. I used butyl tape to bed everything - no leaks.
I'll see if I can post a pic from my iPad.
I'll see if I can post a pic from my iPad.
#6
Main Message Board / Re: Input on Replacing Dodger ...
Last post by Patches - Today at 09:33:14 AMFair point Kevin. The Dodger material has held up well (Samoid vs. Sunbrella) so that is less of an issue. It gets a lot of use so scratches are going to be inevitable, and further reading indicates Strataglas scratch protectionis really limited to small lighter-type abrasion. My long term ownership is unclear, but to be decided in the next 6 months. So I'm leaning toward the replacement with Crystal Clear (also manufactured by Strataglas).
Patches
Patches
#7
Main Message Board / Re: Input on Replacing Dodger ...
Last post by scgunner - Today at 06:25:00 AMPatches,
I wouldn't put another cent into that dodger, unless the PO installed it just before he sold it, it's at least 7 or 8 years old and likely older. I've had my C34 for 36 years and in that time I've replaced my dodger four times. I've never replaced a dodger because the widows went bad. In each case it was because of the sun rotted dodger cloth gets thin and brittle and it either splits or somebody puts a hand through it at that point no repair is possible. Do the math 4 into 34 (my current dodger is 2 years old) that's about 8 years per and I baby my dodgers because they are expensive. That window replacement won't be cheap and that's on a dodger that's probably approaching the end of it's service life. Just my two cents, it's your call of course.
I wouldn't put another cent into that dodger, unless the PO installed it just before he sold it, it's at least 7 or 8 years old and likely older. I've had my C34 for 36 years and in that time I've replaced my dodger four times. I've never replaced a dodger because the widows went bad. In each case it was because of the sun rotted dodger cloth gets thin and brittle and it either splits or somebody puts a hand through it at that point no repair is possible. Do the math 4 into 34 (my current dodger is 2 years old) that's about 8 years per and I baby my dodgers because they are expensive. That window replacement won't be cheap and that's on a dodger that's probably approaching the end of it's service life. Just my two cents, it's your call of course.
#8
Main Message Board / Re: Opening the boom
Last post by scgunner - Today at 05:45:02 AMPete,
It's not brute force you're after you want to use the hammers to setup a vibration, it's tapping not pounding you're looking for. I wouldn't use a rubber it acts too much like a shock absorber reducing the vibration you're after and deflects a lot of force away for the offending part. A hand sledge and a smaller hammer like a ball peen should do the trick. Slow, solid blows with the sledge drives the vibration deep while rapid taps with the small hammer creates a surface vibration where most of the corrosion is likely to be found. Hand in hand with that as mentioned is liberal use of a good penetrant(I too am fond of PB Blaster). The key is to get it as deep and as much as you can and allow plenty of soak time and reapplication, the vibration will also drive it deeper into the work. Even if it goes well this is not going to be a quick job, if you get it off in a week I'd be cracking beers with high fives all around. Be patient, good luck.
It's not brute force you're after you want to use the hammers to setup a vibration, it's tapping not pounding you're looking for. I wouldn't use a rubber it acts too much like a shock absorber reducing the vibration you're after and deflects a lot of force away for the offending part. A hand sledge and a smaller hammer like a ball peen should do the trick. Slow, solid blows with the sledge drives the vibration deep while rapid taps with the small hammer creates a surface vibration where most of the corrosion is likely to be found. Hand in hand with that as mentioned is liberal use of a good penetrant(I too am fond of PB Blaster). The key is to get it as deep and as much as you can and allow plenty of soak time and reapplication, the vibration will also drive it deeper into the work. Even if it goes well this is not going to be a quick job, if you get it off in a week I'd be cracking beers with high fives all around. Be patient, good luck.
#9
Main Message Board / Re: PlasTeak Handrail Replacem...
Last post by scgunner - Today at 05:01:21 AMKirk,
I'm not an expert but hadn't the C34 gone to stainless steel by '91? I've got a Mk1 which came with all teak deck rails. I finally got tired of refinishing, replacing covers, and leaks and replaced it all with S/S, one of my best upgrades. It cut maintenance almost to zero, outlay for new covers also zero, and gives the boat an updated look.
On the eyebrow question I know some guys that have just removed it sealed the holes and polished it up nicely. I took it one step further, I used a 1/2" roll of striping tape where the eyebrow was. My boat has gray decks with navy trim so I used navy tape, it turned out nicely I thought and along with replacing those ghastly Beckson ports it gives the boat a nice clean look.
I'm not an expert but hadn't the C34 gone to stainless steel by '91? I've got a Mk1 which came with all teak deck rails. I finally got tired of refinishing, replacing covers, and leaks and replaced it all with S/S, one of my best upgrades. It cut maintenance almost to zero, outlay for new covers also zero, and gives the boat an updated look.
On the eyebrow question I know some guys that have just removed it sealed the holes and polished it up nicely. I took it one step further, I used a 1/2" roll of striping tape where the eyebrow was. My boat has gray decks with navy trim so I used navy tape, it turned out nicely I thought and along with replacing those ghastly Beckson ports it gives the boat a nice clean look.
#10
Main Message Board / Re: replacing transducers and ...
Last post by Ken Krawford - Today at 02:17:42 AMWhen faced with the task of needing a slightly larger transducer I used a tapered wood plug un the original opening. Put the hole saw pilot bit in the exact center and you're in business.