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I do same as Ken with a few exceptions.  Like Ken's idea with the marked fill bottle.  I used Gorilla Glue between the bulb and the siphon.  I put the syringe in a zip-loc bag and only use it for t-fluid.  Also I write on blue painters tape that the transmission is overfull and put that above the nav table along with a number of other reminders that I must do before launch.  Alternator belt loose, impeller out, seacock closed, etc. 
Hope the transmission service fixes the problem.
Jim

becki,

2.  Many of us use a syringe, a big plastic one, instead of a turkey baster.  The trick is to get a looong plastic tube that fits snugly on whatever you use to suck it out.

3.  Measure what you take out by putting it into a clear plastic cup, and replace just that amount for starters.  THEN check the level, using a paper towel at the end of the dipstick without screwing it in.

I have found a battery filler works well (don't use that anymore - see other post). 



I can reach the bottom with it's hard plastic tube, but if I couldn't get down to the dipstick hole, the tube also fits vinyl tubing very well.  The bulb volume is large and it sucks well.

And also then the turkey doesn't end up with red drippings for the gravy.

The only thing is, that tranny fluid will make the two parts slippery and the rubber bulb will slip off the plastic stem.  So before it gets gunked up, it needs a tight plastic zip tie around the base of the bulb.

After I didn't use it anymore to evacuate the fluid, I still used it to fill the tranny.  Well not exactly fill.  becki, like you I used to be on the hard on the off season.  I'd change fluid in the fall and fill the tranny FULL.  Not "full" on the dipstick but the tranny case FULL.  I have the plastic stem on the battery filler marked with a small zip tie at the spot that equals the length of the dipstick to the "full" mark.  So, take the full tranny, insert the bulb stem down until the zip tie is at the top of the case.  And suck.  The fluid level is "automatically" set at the correct "full" level.

To fill the tranny I use a "nalgene" plastic bottle with a pointy top, marked at O.3 liter (the HB50 fluid volume.) The tip had a vinyl tube zip tied to it.  Work the tube into the tranny, tip the bottle up and let 'er rip.  no funnels, no muss, no fuss, no runs, no drips, no errors.

k

And look closely as the "I'm filled" line/score on the dipstick is only about 1/4 inch from the tip of the stick.

becki, also make sure the vent is clear (the dipstick is hollow and it vents to a (1/16"?) hole in one side of its hex head.)

k

I have seen one at Morgan marina NJ - exactly fitting your description and not too long ago - broker was very open to receive any offer.
I do not see it listed anymore but, call the marina, ask for Pete he will know if boat is still for sale.
It was MK1 standard rig WK, there was substantial damage from leaks (deck hardware),  no head sail, main in very bad shape, running engine, upgraded propeller and elliptical rudder ,no or basic instruments etc ...
On hard for several years.
She was waaay too much of the project for me this time around.
Good luck!

Bob,

I am often more than slightly amused by the inanity that comes from "fellow boaters" and "dock mates".

Neither of these guys know what they are talking about.

Sometimes when input comes in that is counter to traditional, well respected norms and means, methods and techniques of standard practice, it can be, uhm, staggering, frightening, indicative of stupidity, hard to believe...

It's like when someone says gravity isn't real, or down is up, etc.

You just stop and go:  WHAAAT?!?

Stuff, sometimes nasty stuff, WILL grow on the bottom of your boat, freshwater slower than saltwater.  I had a Catalina 22 that we left in a lake from Memorial Day to Labor Day for a few years.  ONLY because this lake had an "underwater car wash boat bottom cleaner" did I not put bottom paint on it.  We dry sailed it back on SF Bay.  Stuff DID grow on the bottom, and I cleaned it with a plastic scouring pad regularly during the season when I went swimming at anchor.  The bottom was GREEN even after the underwater boat wash.

Everyone I know who has a boat in the Great Lakes uses VC17 or the Micron equivalent.

Everyone I know who has a boat in saltwater uses effective bottom paint usually based on where they sail to select the appropriate material.

Bob, that's why they make this stuff.

I am simply gobsmacked at the BS you're being fed.

Tell ya what:  Stick a piece of fiberglass on a line off the end of your dock.  Check it every once in a while.  Come back in two months and let us know what it looks like.  That is what will be on the bottom of your boat, too.  You'll wonder why you can't reach hull speed at WOT.

And botom paint alone does nothing regarding osmotic blistering, only a barrier coat does.

Good luck, but tooth fairies don't exist either.

And look closely as the "I'm filled" line/score on the dipstick is only about 1/4 inch from the tip of the stick.

becki,

Tips & Tricks for fluid removal

1.  Look in the "101  Topics" --- there is a whole section on it:  Transmission Fluid 101   http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6417.0.html

2.  Many of us use a syringe, a big plastic one, instead of a turkey baster.  The trick is to get a looong plastic tube that fits snugly on whatever you use to suck it out.

3.  Measure what you take out by putting it into a clear plastic cup, and replace just that amount fr starters.  THEN check the level, using a paper towel at the end of the dipstick without screwing it in.

4.  I have been able to reach my dipstick directly from above, and I use extenders on a socket.  I have put a smidgen of butyl tape inside the socket like glue to raise the stick.

https://youtu.be/MQyjxVUskd8

Anyone tried this approach for fixed port rebedding using 3M VHB tape and the Dow 795?  I love the idea of the tape taking the mechanical load, but would love to hear about any experience you guys might have had for good or for bad.

Yes, I suppose it would be possible, but you'd probably start to see blisters and when you popped them they would smell like vinegar/styrene. Are you sure you have bare gelcoat, not a barrier coat? If it is bare gelcoat do you wax the bottom? BTW- bottom paint alone on gelcoat won't stop the osmotic penetration. You will need a barrier coat first.

i don't know.  i've had a mechanic looking at my engine and doing the winterizing, all this time.  i assume he checked it, but i don't know and he's doing the ph to mac race so i can't ask