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 1 
 on: Today at 12:51:57 PM 
Started by sailaway - Last post by Dave Spencer
I too was surprised to see a C50. It appears to be a Catalina Morgan designed for the charter trade.  I found a couple of links - some with contradictory information.

http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_id=3375


http://www.murrayyachtsales.com/catalina-morgan-50-reviews-and-more/


http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1990/Morgan-Catalina-50-2875082/Northport/MI/United-States#.WK35hOvEirU



 2 
 on: Today at 12:09:53 PM 
Started by sailaway - Last post by sailaway
Looking at my new mainsheet there is a pic of a catalina 50 hull # 18.  Never knew they made any 50s. Charlie

 3 
 on: Today at 11:46:21 AM 
Started by DaveBMusik - Last post by KWKloeber
Jon,

is that what you did?  You snapped 1/4 inch off the end of the 3/8" bolts that you used?

kk

 4 
 on: Today at 11:37:02 AM 
Started by DaveBMusik - Last post by kwaltersmi
I'm with Stu. Or you could add some epoxy adhesive to the gap and let the port frame and bolts act as a clamp when you put it back together.

 5 
 on: Today at 10:58:13 AM 
Started by DaveBMusik - Last post by Noah
Jon just removed and rebed his chainplates. I would take his advice.

 6 
 on: Today at 10:20:37 AM 
Started by DaveBMusik - Last post by KWKloeber
You should give it a try, you'll be surprised how easy 1/4" is. No mess and no heat introduced into the fastener.

Yeah! I've done it MANY times with #8, #10, 1/4" 
But not 3/8" with only a 1/4" sticking out and 1/4" to remove.  No leverage to get any work hardening to get going. 
a 3/8 bolt is pretty hefty -- more then twice the material compared to 1/4"

 7 
 on: Today at 10:05:48 AM 
Started by DaveBMusik - Last post by Jon W
You should give it a try, you'll be surprised how easy 1/4" is. No mess and no heat introduced into the fastener.

 8 
 on: Today at 09:50:08 AM 
Started by DaveBMusik - Last post by Stu Jackson
Dave,

Don't bother.

Beckson Portlights 101 ("removal tool" with pictures and guides for sealants)

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3241.0.html

Click on the last link in the first post, which includes an additional picture.  My port side looked almost identical.  I never filled it and it has been dry inside for over ~10 years.

 9 
 on: Today at 08:56:14 AM 
Started by DaveBMusik - Last post by KWKloeber
dave

I doubt I'd use foam in any event.  Either epoxy and C-clamp back into position, or epoxy where is, as is. 

How deep is the void?  Are you sure that water intrusion hadn't swelled/deformed the ply?

Even if I filled some, I'd still use epoxy for an inch deep around the opening, but in reality unless it was very very deep, no doubt I'd   just fill it entirely w/ epoxy building up in multiple fills if necessary, using non-blush hardener to make it easy(ier) for additional fills   And unless it proved impossible I know I'd get 'er back to the original thickness.

The factory techs did such precise window work.

kk

 10 
 on: Today at 08:30:19 AM 
Started by DaveBMusik - Last post by DaveBMusik
I just removed the two ports in the v berth which had been leaking. The port side will be straight ahead as there was just a small 1/8 inch manufacturing void in the plywood.
The starboard side is another matter, see pic. There is a 1/2 inch void around approx 2/3 of the opening.
The plywood is still in decent  shape but I am not sure whether to just fill the void with closed cell foam and use longer screws or try to glue the liner back on to the plywood.  It would take a number of clamps and some force to try to compress the liner. I'm not sure if the Hull is deformed from being on the hard or if that is the way it was manufactured...

Any thoughts or suggestions are appreciated.

Dave

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