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 1 
 on: Today at 08:08:51 PM 
Started by John Langford - Last post by KWKloeber
I call that out because Catalina likely interprets those 9" wires as "pigtails" which does not technically eliminate the need for a fuse or DC main breaker. If there was a DC panel main breaker, as many boats have, then one could use conduit or sheathing to "protect" the wire from a short (up to 40") but the breaker still needs to be there to prevent pulling more ampacity than the cable can pass.


Thanks RC.  I understand.  I knew that the 9" (7") didn't app'y here. Great points about the V loss -- that's essentially what I did by doubling up on the feed wire to the switches ahead of the fuses. 


As far as your point on Catalina, who ever knows what CTY/Seaward/Bristol/Universal thought about when building in the wiring deficiencies.  The panel may be the least of them.  My personal pet peeve is the dangerous engine harness, but sometimes it's like talking to a wall.


Cheers
Ken

 2 
 on: Today at 04:04:22 PM 
Started by skippervic - Last post by KWKloeber
Vic,


That model won't work for you.  First it's way to tall.  Second, it's for a 2" riser and 2" exhaust hose.


I believe that the aqualift is around 9-1/2" to 10" high overall.  And it has a 1-5/8" inlet and outlet.


I just sold a 6" dia Centek for on a Catalina 30.  I personally have a 6" dia stainless round can muffler for the past 20 years and no issue whatsoever.   The 8" Centek model is 10.5" high, but you might be able to get that down to 10". I can't speak to what you can physically[/size] squeeze [/size][size=78%]in there because I know that access to get the muffler in is very tight.[/size]


I might be able to get Centek to make one similar height to an aqualift with more capacity than the round -- the one for the C30 was a special non-stock order.


cheers
ken

 3 
 on: Today at 03:35:32 PM 
Started by skippervic - Last post by skippervic
Ahoy Sailors!
I was thinking about replacing Aqualift Muffler on my Ctalina 34 Mk 1.5 (1994). The thing is: CatalinaDirect doesn't have them right now. I've been told the current vendor discontinued production and they are in search of a new one who can build it to the spec. Meanwhile they are out of stock and have no estimate for the new arrivals. Given the circumstances, I started looking for alternatives and came across Centek Vernalift (http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1&id=3370202). According to the manufacturer, it works with diesel engines up to 40 hp and exceeds ABYC specifications. And it costs just $175 (vs catalina $400). Looks like a good alternative to me except for one thing: According to the specs, it is D 10.4 x H 10.16, which roughly gives 450 cubic inches. Catalina Aqualift is 12x11x6 - roughly 800 cubic inches. This is almost twice the volume. I would hate this thing to overflow and flood the engine. What are your thoughts on this? Are there any alternatives to Aqualift aside from building your own with fiberglass and epoxy?

 4 
 on: Today at 03:06:29 PM 
Started by KWKloeber - Last post by KWKloeber
M25xpb, OB 908 pump with paper Universal part #302678 pump gasket.  Need the diameter and thickness of the gasket?  ;)

Isn't it pretty much just sealing out debris?  I don't think water should be present at that seal.


Sealing oil from leaking past the pump land.


Nothing needed, just the round Wb gasket. I prefer using Kb gaskets but that's irrelevant - still no goop needed / desirable.


kk.

 5 
 on: Today at 02:48:06 PM 
Started by John Langford - Last post by J_Sail
In a good DC panel design there is always a DC Main breaker. Some builders put this breaker right at the battery switch, to follow the standard, and keep the battery switch as close to the batteries as possible.

I'm curious, in the case where the battery switch is at the battery box and there is a suitable fuse near the battery switch protecting the wire to the Main DC panel, do you consider it poor practice to not have a readily accessible Main DC breaker somewhere (breaker rather than fuse)? I realize it's nice to be able to use a breaker to turn off the Main DC Panel, and one could argue that there is a safety benefit to being able to quickly restore power to the Main DC Panel after an overload, but are either of those sufficient to warrant a breaker over a fuse in order to be considered "good design"? I know it's a judgment call, but I would value your professional insight.
J

Why not replace the fuse w/ a surface breaker, or thru-mount breaker next to the switch?  (seems best of both world's option)
Or leave the fuse, and put a switch only at the panel to disconnect the feed?
ken

Ken,
All of those are options, each with their own pros and cons. For example, the placement of a toggle circuit breaker in or at the battery box (which you present as best of both worlds) also opens the possibility of something inadvertently turning of the Main Panel, a risk not present with a fuse. These tradeoffs can be debated endlessly.

My posting, though, was specifically to solicit MaineSail's opinion as a leading professional in the field for his view of acceptable best practice.

 6 
 on: Today at 02:45:49 PM 
Started by KWKloeber - Last post by Bill Shreeves
M25xpb, OB 908 pump with paper Universal part #302678 pump gasket.  Need the diameter and thickness of the gasket?  ;)

Isn't it pretty much just sealing out debris?  I don't think water should be present at that seal.

 7 
 on: Today at 02:44:57 PM 
Started by John Langford - Last post by mainesail
I call that out because Catalina likely interprets those 9" wires as "pigtails" which does not technically eliminate the need for a fuse or DC main breaker. If there was a DC panel main breaker, as many boats have, then one could use conduit or sheathing to "protect" the wire from a short (up to 40") but the breaker still needs to be there to prevent pulling more ampacity than the cable can pass.

 8 
 on: Today at 01:09:52 PM 
Started by kerk fisher - Last post by Ron Hill
Kirk : The pedestal guard for the steering station is one inch.
If you look in the Mainsheet tech notes, I wrote an article w/picture on how I mounted a Garmin Map Plotter on that guard with a rail clamp.

Great articles in those Mainsheet tech notes!!

A thought

 9 
 on: Today at 12:39:45 PM 
Started by KWKloeber - Last post by KWKloeber
Ken,
What, if anything, do you suggest using on the gasket between the pump and engine block?


Nada.


Which engine and whose gasket?  Wb or Kb?




Ken

 10 
 on: Today at 12:34:52 PM 
Started by KWKloeber - Last post by Noah
When I did mine I just cleaned the engine mating surface and used the paper gasket--without any type of goooop. Works fine. No leaks.

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