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LOL!! 
Ok, how 'bout one in a baggie, labeled "Murphy" with a Sharpie?

I have CRS so bad that I need to label my left and right hands.

Stu

I messed a little with Bryan's photo. 

If (big if) there's minimal distortion in it, it appears that the Alt needs to move aft about 1/3 the width of the belt.  There's only 0.15 degrees difference (statistically insignificant; basically they are parallel) between the water pump pulley (dashed line) and Alt pulley (dot-dot-dash line), so (contrary to my post below) it appears the Alt is not simply cocked CCW a bit.  Still, I'd verify that the correct bolts were used and is shimmed correctly, before attempting to move it backward.

All this is very rough because there is no doubt distortion in the photo view.

-k

Wow, lot of work, you are not the only one Noah, my starboard strip slide got bunched up but was able to grab it and pull it out, one end looked like a accordion, was able to reinstall it and it straightened out ok, haven't had a chance to secure them  like you did but after reading your post, will do it for sure, and soon, thanks for the infor Noah

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and put a zip-tie thru the hole in the "murphy" spare impeller. 

Ach, for me, I'd be a-wondering what the heck the darned zip-tie was there for.

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It's a bit difficult to tell from these pics but I'm pretty sure the alternator needs to go slightly further aft. 

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Therefore I can't see how it can slide any further aft.  >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
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Can we tell how I failed Reading Comprehension 101?!?   

Sorry about that.  I'd still like to see a photo from the front. 

Seems we agree on the source.

Now THAT'S a CLOSE UP!   

 move the bracket on the side of the manifold.

Stu,

If the bracket is bolted tight to the water flange as Bryan's is, then he can't slide the bracket/Alt aft (as he wants to) only forward (with shims then installed.)


pic courtesy mainesail

-k

Tom,

Is your TStat cap to exhaust manifold hose hot?  A cool hose is symptomatic of water not circulating (possibly Tsat stuck).

Did you get to "basting" the coolant pump?  What you describe happening at the dock is exactly the same symptoms he had at the dock -- he didn't take it out for a run so I can't speak to that.  His pump impeller was turning "in air," not coolant.  If the impeller is not bathed in liquid, then it's impossible for the coolant pump to push anything thru the block.  If you are getting some flow, then the WP does not have an airlock.
The flow is from the Hx => WP => engine block => Tstat  => Tstat cap => exhaust manifold => to the Hx.

As you allude, is the problem with the RWP (impeller, etc.?) or flow to or thru the Hx?   (I'd suspect that last because the change you made was on the coolant side.)

-k

Stu, 

Point of information just for accuracy... there's different kits.

10725 is a "minor service kit"; as you say, for replacing the seals on an older 202M pump (does not include the o-ring used on the newer N202 pumps.)

6593K is an "impeller kit" - includes the cover gasket (for 202M) AND the cover o-ring (for N202M) (throw away one of those, so it's cheaper to buy them individually.)

N202M-16MJK is a "major rebuild kit" for N202M pumps (everything except the shaft.)

I agree wholeheartedly w/ your editorial but go one further.
I've had situations where a customer burned up an impeller, thought s/he fixed the problem (or didn't try to troubleshoot it) and then burned up the spare.  That's why I plead with customers to also carry a "murphy's law" spare.  It's an extra expense only on the first purchase of two spares.  With a change out, the newest (or best condition) impeller becomes the "murphy" spare.

Of course, it's TBTC, but it sure comes in handy if one is offshore with a burned up spare impeller.  At least you have a last-chance way to get home.  And the extra insurance is not difficult, keep both in the same container, or zip bag, or wherever, and put a zip-tie thru the hole in the "murphy" spare impeller. 

-k
(Ob dealer)

Stu,
I did all of that and unfortunately the engine still increased to over 190 over about 10 minutes. normally it will run at 165 for hours at 2200rpm.

Today it starts to move from 160 toward 190 when the rpm's are at 2000. I had it in gear at the dock.

I have not done the pressure cap off and 2500 to 3000rpm option yet.

Any  thoughts?  Anyone?

Many thanks
Tom