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Messages - Stu Jackson

Pages: 1 ... 540 541 [542] 543 544 ... 550
8116
Main Message Board / Heads
« on: April 26, 2002, 11:32:10 AM »
Fulvio
 
 Check FAQs - Marine Sanitation.  Very good info.  I use a bit of white vinegar regularly, and usually flush with fresh water before I leave the boat.
 
 Stu

8117
Main Message Board / Serial Number Location
« on: April 27, 2002, 06:47:01 PM »
It's just aft of the thermostat housing, in the forward section of the engine where you add oil.  It is a label that has the model number and serial number.

8118
Main Message Board / ? Engine
« on: April 26, 2002, 10:55:43 AM »
Our #224 has the M-25.  Steve's right:  if you have the 2 inch heat exchanger, it's an M-25.  You may have the newer alternator bracket since many folks did that necessary mod.

8119
Main Message Board / Coolant "Search"
« on: April 27, 2002, 09:17:58 AM »
Fulvio
 
 Use the Message Board SEARCH engine.  Type in coolant.  21 hits.  October 30, 2001 from Ron Hill.
 
 Stu

8120
Main Message Board / Fresh Water Pump
« on: April 25, 2002, 11:40:48 AM »
Bernd,
 
 Another consideration is belt tension.  I believe it was covered exhaustively in the Tech Notes.  Too tight can end up frying the pump.
 
 Stu

8121
Main Message Board / Engine Info
« on: April 26, 2002, 10:54:08 AM »
Jim
 
 Try this source.
 
 
 Universal

8122
Main Message Board / Insurance NOT!
« on: April 20, 2002, 09:57:22 AM »
OK, folks, so how does one get around this and obtain necessary coverage for the very issues that were raised?  Roc, after reading the fine print, what did you do?

8123
Main Message Board / New Propane Tank
« on: April 14, 2002, 08:47:12 AM »
Steve
 
 Yes, we have.  Please check out Projects on the website, and also a search in this Message Board.  The Projects even has pictures from Ron Hill's work.

8124
Main Message Board / Solid Vang
« on: April 14, 2002, 08:47:17 PM »
Ken
 
 Easiest way to get a direct answer would be to call Garhauer directly.  Other answers about rigging the solid vang have appeared in this Message Board, but are more related to boom bails and mainsheet reaving to allow the vang and mainsheet to set right, ususally for older MK I boats who have replaced the old vangs with the new solid ones.

8125
Main Message Board / Model
« on: April 14, 2002, 05:19:04 PM »
Aaron
 
 Sounds fascinating.  A couple of sources come to mind:  1)  the sections and plans in the brochures; 2)  someone was doing half hull models a few years ago, may still be in the website somewhere, but if not, there may be similar things in other Catalina websites; 3) the Factory - call Gerry Douglas and see if he will help.
 
 Good luck, looking forward to seeing your work.
 
 Stu

8126
Main Message Board / Dry Bilge
« on: April 07, 2002, 07:03:39 AM »
Alan & Vicky
 
 Yes, there is such a thing as a dry bilge, but I'll be danged if I can get there myself! (yet)
 
 Couple of other places to look: (if not for you, then others)
 
 1.  Exhaust hose outlet at transom - we found the end of the hose to be worn at the thru hull.  Since we'd planned to replace the entire hose length from the muffler to the transom someday soon anyway, I just cut a few inches off the end and reconnected it to the thru hull with new hose clamps.
 
 2.  Connections to muffler from exhaust hose to transom and from engine to muffler:  I just purchased a new hump hose from Catalina ($38.88 + shipping).  There is a definite leak from the engine exhaust connection at the muffler, simply  because the old hose is so darn stiff.  Even new hose is stiff.  That's why they cam up with the hump hose.  We may have to rebuild the muffler entry connection with Marine Tex, but I know there's water coming in from that connection.
 
 3.  Head outlet thru hull:  We had to replace the 1 1/2 inch marelon valve last June, it was leaking.
 
 4.   Stuffing box:  installed dripless packing a few years ago.  Much cheaper than PSS or other mechanical seals, and, per Ron Hill, I sleep a lot more soundly knowing there's one less mechanical gnome to grow glitches.  Had to redo the packing after the last haulout (which took a few weeks on the hard) since the packing dried out.  Don't forget to check the stuffing box after every haulout.
 
 
 5.  Stanchion bases & Chainplates:  The stanchions may feel good but especially the ones with the vent hoses (starboard - water tank, and port - head vent,  amidships) are always suspect, also with aboat of your "vintage."  The midships ones are the ones that visitors tend to grab when they come aboard.  A recent Mainsheet had an idea for tying a piece of line on the after lower shroud to use to pull the boat over to the dock in lieu of hauling on the stanchions.  If you don't like the look of a line hanging there, just step on the dockline to pull the boat over to the dock.  We've been rebedding the stanchions one at a time during recent visits.  Chainplates were all done last year.  Seems to me that even if they ALL were leaking, it wouldn't account for the quantity of water you've described.
 
 This post has become the TOP 10 (or 20) BEST BILGEWATER LIST.  Great ideas.  Keep 'em coming. :cool:
 
 Stu

8127
Main Message Board / Fuel Gauges again
« on: January 20, 2002, 09:43:04 AM »
Try the search in the Message Board, type in fuel, go to May 22, 2001, question by BandG, many answers are there.

8128
Main Message Board / Flush Huh?
« on: April 07, 2002, 09:35:16 PM »
Charlie
 
 Chris is right.  There is a basic difference between raw water cooled and fresh water cooled engines.
 
 Raw water cooled engines use the "sea around us" to cool directly, with no heat exchanger.  So, if you're in salt water, the salt water is fed through the engine block.  That's bad news, hence, the idea for using a fresh water flush, kinda like an outboard engine.
 
 Our C34 engines are fresh water cooled, via the heat exchanger.  No nasty salt water gets into the engine itself, so no fresh water flush is ever necessary.
 
 Do, however, check your zinc on the heat exchanger, and replace it regularly.
 
 That's also why this message board beats Sailnet hands down! :D

8129
Main Message Board / Cetol Types
« on: April 08, 2002, 08:04:05 AM »
Mark
 
 The Message Board search under the subject "Exterior Teak" is where the two types of cetol are described.

8130
Main Message Board / Cetol Additives
« on: April 07, 2002, 09:45:32 PM »
Mark
 
 This is a new one.  Hadn't heard about adding anything to cetol. Where did you "hear it?"
 
 I assume you've already done the searches on both the C34 Message Board and the C34 website on "cetol."  Lots of ideas already posted.
 
 Before you mix anything else with the cetol, (or anything else for that matter) it would be reasonable to check with the manufacture(s) to find out if it will work.  As far as I know, Cetol only has two finishes, see previous posts via the search engine(s).
 
 One of the major advantages of cetol over varnish is that you can "paint" right over it.  This assumes that there're no "black" spots underneath the existing coats, which would mean that the "seal" is gone.  If so, just sand down that area, and "paint" over it with new cetol.

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