Also consider Pro Furl. We have a Pro Furl LCI32 and think it's great. It's one of the few furlers that even the instructions say: You CAN reef using the winch.!!!!" Zero maintenance (except for checking on screws and bolts through dissimilar metals (Lanocote and TefGel work just fine there.)
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#8117
Main Message Board / Re: Reefing lines rigged aft to cockpit?
October 28, 2005, 10:46:00 AM
Philippe - The article has been sent as a zip file to your email. Enjoy. 
#8118
Main Message Board / Re: Reefing lines rigged aft to cockpit?
October 27, 2005, 08:37:28 PM
I wrote a detailed description of our reeefing setup in the November 2004 Vol 22 #4 Tech Notes.
http://www.c34.org/tech-notes-index/tech-notes-index-2004.htm
http://www.c34.org/tech-notes-index/tech-notes-index-2004.htm
#8121
Main Message Board / Re: 1990 Catalina 34 back
October 24, 2005, 07:49:43 PM
Kelly
Good luck, you can't go wrong.
I recommend you read the "Why we bought," and "What to look for" sections of the FAQ.
Go to: http://www.c34.org/faq-pages/faq.html
Good luck, you can't go wrong.
I recommend you read the "Why we bought," and "What to look for" sections of the FAQ.
Go to: http://www.c34.org/faq-pages/faq.html
#8122
Main Message Board / Weather helm C34
October 10, 2005, 10:31:03 AM
John
Don't let that boat get away.
15-18 knots most people reef. I used to do so (and still do if I'm still cruising) until I started racing a few years ago and really learned to sail the boat to its potential. For instance, I was out yesterday for Fleet Week on SF Bay with the Blue Angels. It blew from 10 to 20 and I had the full main up with my 110 jib (racers here go with 130s, but I don't have one that big). I've learned to sail and balance the boat, including using the autopilot, with NO problems. There's been plenty written about weather helm on C34s, and I think most of it is lack of experience (not incorrect sailing, mind you, but just learning how to use the boat). End result: I can fly more canvas in higher winds than I ever used to do because of the experience I've gained.
Once you get the boat tracking well going upwind, it'll sail itself, once you've found the "groove."
I have an '86 boat with the old rudder.
Buy the boat, you'll regret it if you don't.
Also, with the original main, what shape is it in? Is it OEM Catalina, or another manufacturer? Our main is 19 years old and very baggy, but it's OK for me. Doesn't point as high as the racers, who have VERY flat mains. What kind of shape was the 120 in? All sorts of other angles (no pun intended) on the heeling issue.
BTW, there was a recent post somewhere, maybe on this board, about "rail in the water." In the eight years I've been here, I have not heard of anyone who's had trouble with stability - really hard to get water up on the lee side.
Don't let that boat get away.
15-18 knots most people reef. I used to do so (and still do if I'm still cruising) until I started racing a few years ago and really learned to sail the boat to its potential. For instance, I was out yesterday for Fleet Week on SF Bay with the Blue Angels. It blew from 10 to 20 and I had the full main up with my 110 jib (racers here go with 130s, but I don't have one that big). I've learned to sail and balance the boat, including using the autopilot, with NO problems. There's been plenty written about weather helm on C34s, and I think most of it is lack of experience (not incorrect sailing, mind you, but just learning how to use the boat). End result: I can fly more canvas in higher winds than I ever used to do because of the experience I've gained.
Once you get the boat tracking well going upwind, it'll sail itself, once you've found the "groove."
I have an '86 boat with the old rudder.
Buy the boat, you'll regret it if you don't.
Also, with the original main, what shape is it in? Is it OEM Catalina, or another manufacturer? Our main is 19 years old and very baggy, but it's OK for me. Doesn't point as high as the racers, who have VERY flat mains. What kind of shape was the 120 in? All sorts of other angles (no pun intended) on the heeling issue.
BTW, there was a recent post somewhere, maybe on this board, about "rail in the water." In the eight years I've been here, I have not heard of anyone who's had trouble with stability - really hard to get water up on the lee side.
#8123
Main Message Board / Simrad wheel autopilot
October 09, 2005, 10:11:38 PM
Vic
Greg Sherwood, former Fleet One Captain, installed a WP30 or 32 six months ago and is having all sorts of problems. Email me separately and I'll get you together with him.
Greg Sherwood, former Fleet One Captain, installed a WP30 or 32 six months ago and is having all sorts of problems. Email me separately and I'll get you together with him.
#8124
Main Message Board / Traveler jam cleat relocation
October 08, 2005, 12:55:38 PM
Bruce
We have the same setup as George described. Guido did it for us too. Rollers from the traveler car, then to a bullet fairlead midway back on the coach roof to the cam cleats with the protector to stop the line from coming off, but it can go up. We had our cam cleats mounted about a foot forward of the end of the coachroof. I moved them aft as far as possible last year and it makes a big difference in being able to secure them again after a tack. Also, I would consider using swiveling cam cleats, since the angle of pull varies, and when you're honkin' out there, it's nice not to have to go down to the low side and pull. I have a picture, but can't seem to get it posted here.
We have the same setup as George described. Guido did it for us too. Rollers from the traveler car, then to a bullet fairlead midway back on the coach roof to the cam cleats with the protector to stop the line from coming off, but it can go up. We had our cam cleats mounted about a foot forward of the end of the coachroof. I moved them aft as far as possible last year and it makes a big difference in being able to secure them again after a tack. Also, I would consider using swiveling cam cleats, since the angle of pull varies, and when you're honkin' out there, it's nice not to have to go down to the low side and pull. I have a picture, but can't seem to get it posted here.
#8125
Main Message Board / Wood Stove
October 03, 2005, 09:24:58 AM
Jerry
I did a search on "Force 10" and found this, among a lot of hits:
http://www.c34.org/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=1794&highlight=force
If you do a search on Dickinson, there is also a thread on that.
10/27/05 The NEW board link is:
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=1794.0
This is a real downside of changing the forum supplier, because all the links go BLOOEY.
I do, however, fully understand the need to do so. I only wish the links came updated.
I did a search on "Force 10" and found this, among a lot of hits:
http://www.c34.org/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=1794&highlight=force
If you do a search on Dickinson, there is also a thread on that.
10/27/05 The NEW board link is:
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=1794.0
This is a real downside of changing the forum supplier, because all the links go BLOOEY.
I do, however, fully understand the need to do so. I only wish the links came updated.
#8126
Main Message Board / Leaking Window
October 03, 2005, 09:20:15 AM
Ken,
Thanks for quoting me, and I'm sorry you're having such bad luck. As I recall, our port problem occurred on a rainy day at anchor. At least we were there for the waterfall! No rainbows, though.
It seems to me that the trick is to get enough sealant in so that when you tighten the screws the sealant oozes out, especially on the top. Since we were at anchor, I did NOT have the gasket that's been mentioned here, just a tube of good old West Marine sealant, not even Boat Life.
With excess sealant oozing out the top, it sure didn't look pretty, but all we did was trim the excess off with a knife. I liken this to what I did with our forward starboard Beckson and our chainplates: if (and when) I re-seal anything, I put enough sealant on so it oozes out. At least then I know, just by looking at it, that I've actually done something!
I think Steve's right about the design limitations of the embedment, and Gary's right about the "squeezing out" which worked for us. Sure, it doesn't look like it's right out of the factory, but it works.
Thanks for quoting me, and I'm sorry you're having such bad luck. As I recall, our port problem occurred on a rainy day at anchor. At least we were there for the waterfall! No rainbows, though.
It seems to me that the trick is to get enough sealant in so that when you tighten the screws the sealant oozes out, especially on the top. Since we were at anchor, I did NOT have the gasket that's been mentioned here, just a tube of good old West Marine sealant, not even Boat Life.
With excess sealant oozing out the top, it sure didn't look pretty, but all we did was trim the excess off with a knife. I liken this to what I did with our forward starboard Beckson and our chainplates: if (and when) I re-seal anything, I put enough sealant on so it oozes out. At least then I know, just by looking at it, that I've actually done something!
I think Steve's right about the design limitations of the embedment, and Gary's right about the "squeezing out" which worked for us. Sure, it doesn't look like it's right out of the factory, but it works.
#8127
Main Message Board / Fresh water pump won't turn off
September 29, 2005, 04:38:25 PM
When you say "All the valves are turned off" I assume you mean the "faucets."
It sounds like there is a failure of the pressure sensor system on the pump, could be from debris in the water from when you emptied your tanks, or a leak somewhere. The Shurflo Manual for my pump indicates that what you have is a leak somewhere either in your lines or an "internal pump leak which allows water to escape from the high pressure area back into the low pressure inlet area causing the pump to cycle." (Model # 2088-423-344: $115 in WMP, page 509)
You can either:
1. Open up the pressure section on the pump and clean it out and check and check for leaks in your system (hose clamps - could be one loose - like electrical, connections are important in a piping system under pressure or to thru hulls). If the pressure switch is faulty, you can buy a replacement - see WMP page 509 - 2005 catalog - for service kits)
2. Replace the pump with an identical pump
3. Replace the pump with a newer pump system that has a built in accumulator tank so the pump cycles less frequently - these are newer models and cost more. Also see page 519 for "Extreme" Series (two different models)
You haven't mentioned your hull # or boat's year, so it's a little bit more difficult to answer your question more specifically. Please let us know that info, too.
It sounds like there is a failure of the pressure sensor system on the pump, could be from debris in the water from when you emptied your tanks, or a leak somewhere. The Shurflo Manual for my pump indicates that what you have is a leak somewhere either in your lines or an "internal pump leak which allows water to escape from the high pressure area back into the low pressure inlet area causing the pump to cycle." (Model # 2088-423-344: $115 in WMP, page 509)
You can either:
1. Open up the pressure section on the pump and clean it out and check and check for leaks in your system (hose clamps - could be one loose - like electrical, connections are important in a piping system under pressure or to thru hulls). If the pressure switch is faulty, you can buy a replacement - see WMP page 509 - 2005 catalog - for service kits)
2. Replace the pump with an identical pump
3. Replace the pump with a newer pump system that has a built in accumulator tank so the pump cycles less frequently - these are newer models and cost more. Also see page 519 for "Extreme" Series (two different models)
You haven't mentioned your hull # or boat's year, so it's a little bit more difficult to answer your question more specifically. Please let us know that info, too.
#8128
Main Message Board / Refrigeration
September 29, 2005, 09:34:33 AM
Splets
A majority of the boats have Adler Barbour Cold Machines. Various locations for the compressor unit: under the forward settee seat or in the lazarette. They're air cooled units, no through hull needed. I think the box is 6 cubic feet (it's about 2 x 2 x 2 = eight) so maybe it's 9 cu. ft.
I recommend you do a search on "adler" - there are many posts right up your alley, including sizing, insulation, etc.
Also important to consider is the size of your house battery bank. If you're marina hopping it's not that important, but if you plan to stay out for any extended period, you'll need a good house bank of considerable capacity. The unit draws 60 ah per day (5 amps when running, half duty cycle or 5 x 24 hours x 50%).
A majority of the boats have Adler Barbour Cold Machines. Various locations for the compressor unit: under the forward settee seat or in the lazarette. They're air cooled units, no through hull needed. I think the box is 6 cubic feet (it's about 2 x 2 x 2 = eight) so maybe it's 9 cu. ft.
I recommend you do a search on "adler" - there are many posts right up your alley, including sizing, insulation, etc.
Also important to consider is the size of your house battery bank. If you're marina hopping it's not that important, but if you plan to stay out for any extended period, you'll need a good house bank of considerable capacity. The unit draws 60 ah per day (5 amps when running, half duty cycle or 5 x 24 hours x 50%).
#8129
Main Message Board / LED Cabin Lights
September 28, 2005, 07:33:45 PM
Has anybody tried Alpenglow fixtures?
We've, so far, resolved our lighting issue by utilizing a neat trawler lamp in the main cabin, plus the halogen fixtures we installed shown in Projects, keeping the old lights for low level stuff. Pretty much the only use we have of 12 v lights is reading in bed before we go to sleep in the forward cabin (guests use the ones in the aft cabin, which are all pretty well located for reading). Keeps the amp hour drain down very low.
I fully understand that the trawler lamp idea may not appeal to those of you in warmer climates, but it's one of the better boat heaters we've found here.
We've, so far, resolved our lighting issue by utilizing a neat trawler lamp in the main cabin, plus the halogen fixtures we installed shown in Projects, keeping the old lights for low level stuff. Pretty much the only use we have of 12 v lights is reading in bed before we go to sleep in the forward cabin (guests use the ones in the aft cabin, which are all pretty well located for reading). Keeps the amp hour drain down very low.
I fully understand that the trawler lamp idea may not appeal to those of you in warmer climates, but it's one of the better boat heaters we've found here.
#8130
Main Message Board / engine replacement questions
September 20, 2005, 09:27:58 PM
Engines, electrical and hull integrity: all seem to be safety related issues.
While we all can't and won't become expert diesel mechanics, there ARE many things we can and should do to maintain not only our investments but our family's and friend's safety.
Regular maintenance, a reasonable familiarity with the parts and features that are prone to failure (shucks, think they're even mentioned around here?) and some common sense, sure go a long way.
That comes right after figuring out and remembering, which way the pointy end is!
I haven't found a diesel mechanic either - I'm beginning to think they don't exist, and IF they do, you HAVE to hover over their shoulder as they are working.
Ain't that what you wished your Mom would stop doing to you?!?
While we all can't and won't become expert diesel mechanics, there ARE many things we can and should do to maintain not only our investments but our family's and friend's safety.
Regular maintenance, a reasonable familiarity with the parts and features that are prone to failure (shucks, think they're even mentioned around here?) and some common sense, sure go a long way.
That comes right after figuring out and remembering, which way the pointy end is!
I haven't found a diesel mechanic either - I'm beginning to think they don't exist, and IF they do, you HAVE to hover over their shoulder as they are working.
Ain't that what you wished your Mom would stop doing to you?!?