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Messages - Stu Jackson

#8101
Main Message Board / fuel bleeding problems
May 18, 2005, 10:16:06 PM
From a search on Bleeding, scroll down to subject: Topic "secondary filter bleeding" - This is my reply to John's orignal question.  

I replumbed the pump to AFTER the Racor, and it pumps JUST FINE.  A pump is a pump, regardless of whether it's in front of or after the Racor.

Clean the pump filter at the base of the pump.


Posted: Sun Apr 03, 2005 4:52 pm    Post subject: Bleeding  
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John

Haven't had a leak there. New leak on old filter or new leak on new filter? Remember to lube the O ring and threads with diesel or oil before installing a new filter.

On my M25, the nut on the top of the filter housing is THE place to get the air out of the system. I do not fill the secondary (engine mounted) filter with fuel, since it is a bear to get back there and put a strap wrench on it, no less getting my hand in to get the threads started. If it is empty, I can't spill any fuel. It is difficult to avoid spilling fuel when I remove the old one.

Once the new clean secondary filter is on, I just open that bolt, run the electric fuel pump by turning on the key switch at the panel, wait till the air is gone, close the bolt, and I'm done. Even opening the knurled knob is unnecessary. I tried just the knurled knob, but that didn't work. Shucks! But the bolt on the filter housing is relatively easy to get to with a long extender on a socket or just a combination wrench. I wrote more details up on "bleeding" earlier.

The fuel pump will pump through BOTH the Racor AND the secondary filter. I re-plumbed our Racor to be ahead of the electric fuel pump on the fuel line from the tank.

I would normally just cut & paste the direct URL on the search for "bleeding" for you, but for some reason, the way this board is working recently, is that I can get the search result up on the screen, but the URL ends with "=results" and NOT the actual WYSIWYG. So if I paste that, you don't get the search results. I have to go into one specific post from the array from the search, and can get that URL, but not the full search result. Sorry. If you just try the search, on "bleeding" you'll find all of those posts.

This is one of them: http://www.c34.org/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=1431&highlight=bleeding
_________________
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite" San Francisco Bay
#8102
Main Message Board / Inverter transfer switch
May 17, 2005, 11:56:23 AM
Ken

It seems to me that FUNCTION is the most important issue here, followed closely by ability to resist marine environment.  Whith those two criteria, if it works, why not?  If you choose to do so, remember to turn your charger off at the panel (if you have a separate charger breaker) as I mentioned in my earlier discussion about Jon Arck's installation.  Then please post the model of the switch you used.
#8103
Main Message Board / dinghy outboard size
May 17, 2005, 11:52:22 AM
Gerry

Good question.  The earlier suggestion to do a search on "dinghy" may shed some light on that since Randy bought his plywood floor specifically because he fishes and didn't want to get caught with a fish hook in his floor!!!

I also recorded that I'd installed outdoor carpert over the floor in our inflatable floor.  That may be a way for you to go.

Also don't know how sharp your dog's claws really are!   :wink:
#8104
Kerk

The wedges are like door stops, triangular in cross section.  Make a few of them at varying tapers and you should be OK.  The space between the partners (the hole) and the mast is only about an inch or an inch and half at the most on each side with the mast centered.

Because I single-hand a lot, I just leave the 6 x 23 fenders hooked to the lifelines, but ON DECK.  We have 6 of them.  Your boat, your choice, how can anyone tell you how many or what size will work for you?  Look around at other boats, albeit early in the season.  If you drape them around outside the lifelines and they're hanging over the side, you have what is referred to as "Marina Del Rey Racing Stripes."  No offense to our So. Cal. brethren.   :D
#8105
Main Message Board / Oberdorfer impeller pump
May 15, 2005, 11:20:08 AM
Dave

I don't have one of those tools.  I have always been able to get it off with two small flat bladed screwdrivers.  Just have to be careful that when it comes off it doesn't fly across the cabin!
#8106
Main Message Board / Reverse Polarity
May 14, 2005, 10:51:30 PM
Someone worked on the dockside power while you were away.
#8107
Main Message Board / Beckson Port Gaskets
May 13, 2005, 09:37:49 AM
David

Yes, they are a difficult fix, I just did one.  The instructions that came with the gaskets are quite clear.  While mine are on the boat, I remember them suggesting to NOT use anything to "assist" in the installation, other than cleaning out the groove.  They recommended stretching the gaskets first.  I did that, but overdid it and had to take it out and start all over!  My fingers still hurt (and I have 5 more to go!).  I just followed their instructions, and the ones in the box with the new gaskets are a bit different than the ones on Beckson's website.  You'll feel better knowing they are in right and will last for another six years.  Just don't tightn the clamps too tight or you'll just crush the new gaskets.

There shouldn't be anything in the groove, just air.  The black plastic you mentioned could have been the frame from an old screen.  My PO had all the screens in the ports, but there are still 8 black plastic "rings" sitting in one of our drawers - I still haven't figured out what they are for.
#8108
Main Message Board / electrical problem
May 12, 2005, 11:04:55 AM
Ken, check the connections at the back of your 1-2-B switch, and the connections at your house bank.  It sounds like one side of your 1-2-B switch isn't making contact.  Could just be a bad switch.

Stu
#8109
Steve, I agree with Tom, and even if it wasn't centered the difference wouldn't matter.  It's hard enough to get the clew line as tight as it really needs to be and the inherent stretch of the line would more than make up the difference.  You can use the cheek block or use Tom's method.  Eye straps would suffice to run the clew line forward on the boom.  Remember, as I said, the PO had the internal lines led the way I described in the Tech Notes.  Less holes in the boom is NOT a bad idea!

As far as the tack goes, we have the Harken track and cars on our mainsail luff, so that stack gets the tack cringle pretty high off the boom to begin with.  Tom's idea is good if you have regular sail slugs.  Our point of "compression" is pretty the same, because I don't want to stress the strap that connects the luff to the Harken car(s).  What I do is just keep a loose tension on the tack when I first reef and get the luff tight with the main halyard, and a "high" tack.  This keeps the strap clear a bit.  As the halyard stretches (yeah, I should have gotten Stay Set X, not just Stay Set), I pull down a bit more on the tack, just like a cunningham!
#8110
Main Message Board / Electrical Upgrade
May 11, 2005, 08:33:19 PM
THE QUESTION REMAINS

Lewco and other manufacturers have made “good” chargers for many years, and possible of varying types, i.e., ferro and others.

The issues is whether they are true smart 3 stage chargers – really that’s all the question is.

If you have to use a timer on your charger, or if it only puts out 13.8 volts all the time, or if it’s a tapering charger (like the OEM internal regulators on alternators or car battery chargers), or you don’t have a bulk, absorption, and float charging regimen, that ALL the battery manufacturers recommend, then I simply ask the question: WHY?  (or why not?).

Ferros are still very good if you’re a live aboard.  But MOST of us aren’t and the batteries require a smart charge.  So, if ANY charger was the supreme product of its day, it was only in its day, which was or could have been many years ago.

Kind of like saying a Model T is a great car.  Probably still is, but…

One of our batteries, the starting bank, was purchased in early 1999. That's five years and it's still going strong with a small solar panel charging the house bank and the start battery through a combiner, and, as Ray & Ron have mentioned, & never connected to the dock power unless we're on board (except for a night before we go out for more than a day sail) with a Freedom 1500 I/C (75 A charger to a 315 ah house bank).  That's a great record for any battery bank.

I simply continue to recommend that you match the use to the equipment.
#8111
Main Message Board / Electrical Upgrade
May 09, 2005, 02:02:29 PM
Steve and Nancy

Haven't heard of Lewco for as long as I've been here.  If it's heavy and has an ammeter on it, it's old and ready for the J heap.

However, in answer to your question, if it is a single stage charger, it IS killing your batteries by simply continuously undercharging them at a constant 13.8V.  If you leave your boat plugged in all week at the dock, as most do, it's harmful.  Maybe you won't see it immediately, but instead of six years on batteries, you'll only get three or four.  I don't know what "doing fine per our measurements" consist of.  If it's just voltage, unless you have everything OFF for 24 hours, both incoming and output, it's not a sufficient measurement.

That's the simple answer.  As I've (and others) said, a quality 3 stage charger will give an immediate payback on battery cost by simply  extending the life of the banks.  While I can't begin to assume what you are planning, unless it includes a separate combined inverter/charger, if it includes a new charger, why not just bite the bullet and replace just the charger now?

A very good "What Batteries Need" article is at www.amplepower.com - download the Ample Power Primer.  Great reading if you haven't done so already.
#8112
Main Message Board / Charles Redux Charger Update
May 09, 2005, 11:30:05 AM
In an effort to be fair to a manufacturer, a recent post has noted that new (2005) boats are still being built with Charles Chargers.  This particular thread/post, in discussions above, had noted (a few years ago) some research on the negative aspects of the Charles chargers based on available information at that time.

It appears that Charles has improved their product line.  

This consists of two things: being able to switch between battery types AND having a true 3 stage charging capability. (Equalization is separate, and doesn't appear in the catalog, or I just haven't read the whole thing yet!)

I recommend that you read the following newer thread for an update, and it includes links to Charles' website and product line:

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=2143.0

I also recommend that you check your charger on "newer" (say a 2003-4)but not necessarily "newest" (late 2004-5) boats, since I don't know when Charles started making the updated models with battery type switching AND the 3 stages of charging, nor do we know when Catalina started installing the updated products.  The Charles models numbers appear to be the same, but the guts, and, therefore, the operation, may be different.  

If you don't have the battery type switching on a "newer" Charles charger, I doubt you'd have an effective three stage charger, in which case the recommendations in this thread to use Statpower (Truecharge, Xantrex) would still apply.

Any feedback from other skippers would be much appreciated.
#8113
Main Message Board / Charles Charger Catalog
May 09, 2005, 11:16:51 AM
Ken

Re Charles Chargers

You will most likely be getting a C-2000.  This is the link to their catalog in PDF that you can view online or download.

http://www.charlesindustries.com/MarineCataloglowres.pdf

It appears, from page 6 of the catalog, that they've pulled themselves into the 21st century and now offer both switching between battery types as well as bulk, absorption and float stages.  This is good.  It is unclear whether or not they offer an equalization stage as Xantrex does - this is important for wet cells.

This may save you some correspondence with Charles.

The main Charles website is just the first part of the URL above.

In order to be fair, I'll go back and link this to the old post referenced above.
#8114
Main Message Board / Electrical Upgrade
May 09, 2005, 09:42:35 AM
Ken

I agree with your approach.  Given your planned cruising ground, the very best thing you can do for starters (no pun intended) is what you are planning to do.

However, (and here's the BUT) please remember that with your stock alternator, you WILL need to plug in sometime, almost weekly during your cruise. to top off your house bank. This assumes that from your last post you would defer the installation of the high output alternator and external regulator.  If you are going to put them in, too, before you leave, then the following doesn't apply, but is still valid information for others.

I wrote this as part of a long 2004 Summer Cruise story I wrote for our local Fleet 1 Telltale:

Helpful Hints:  Electrical Systems:  For extended cruises for those with OEM stock alternators and no external regulation, there is inherently a steadily diminishing law of return in battery charging even if you motor a lot everyday.  If you do an energy budget, even if you motor for eight hours a day, you will be drawing down your batteries, regardless of how much you’ve increased your house bank.  You WILL need to stop and plug in every week or so.  Do the math.  If you really want to stay out “forever,” add solar and a new high(er) output alternator and smart regulator.  We minimized use of electric lights with our lamp oil trawler cabin light and lamp oil anchor light hooked onto our Garhauer dinghy davit, but most of the energy use is from the fridge.  With our large 315 amp hour house battery bank and a separate start battery, we were very comfortable being out in two different situations.  The first was for a few days without motoring or plugging in.  We turned off the fridge at night, so we only used 30 to 40 amp hours a day and could go three or four days without running the engine.  The second was knowing we’d be motoring for at least five hours or plugging in at a marina.  So, before you go, make sure your electrical system is up to snuff so you can really relax and enjoy the peace and quiet without having to worry about your boat systems."

Followup comments:

The "Do the Math" referred to doing an energy budget.  Also assumes you have refrigeration, rather than an ice box, and that you plan to use it.  You could go longer, much longer, with just using the icebox as an icebox, even if you do have refrigeration - just turn it off!  

If you've topped off your house bank before you leave, then make a running total of how much gets drawn daily, and then how much you'll be able to put back in with a stock alternator.  Unfortunately, that's not very much because even with a 55 amp alternator, with no external regulation, the internal regulator will not put out very much.  Without getting into the details, covered elsewhere and in references, say you get 20 amps (which is pushing it).  Motor four hours you get 80 amps, which barely keeps up with the fridge load.  We still have our stock alternator with an AutoMac, so we get a little bit more out of the alternator.  I have a new Blue Circle Alternator and MaxCharge ready to go in as soon as I can find a window to start boat work amidst all the sailing.  :)

Have a great cruise, and keep comin' back here.  Congrats on your new boat.

Also, please note that as a new boat owner, you get a free first year membership in the C34 International Association.  Your dealer may have neglected to mention it to you, most do.  Please send me your address and we can get Mainsheet and the CD-ROM to you asap.  You can email me at mraquaq@aol.com.
#8115
Main Message Board / Electrical Upgrade
May 08, 2005, 10:31:28 PM
Quote from: Steve LyleSo if your Charles charger can't handle different types (which it almost certainly can't), then wire it to the house bank.  The Duo Charge will then appropriately charge the engine battery from that source, assuming that you configure it appropriately.

This is another subtle but important item regarding the Charles chargers.  Some of the older (just a few years ago) Charles chargers were "dedicated" to one battery type.  This was included in my earlier reference to the Charles Redux Battery Charger thread.  So if you changed battery types, you had to change your charger.  A delightful design concept...

At that time, only Statpower (Xantrex, Truecharge) had a battery "type" (i.e., wet, gel, AGM, etc.) switch.

Charles may have gotten wiser recently.  I do not know if this is the case, and haven't checked catalogs, their website or any in a store.  If you know, it would be helpful to find out.

Just be careful and understand what you are doing.