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Messages - Stu Jackson

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8146
Main Message Board / Knuckles Galore
« on: December 06, 2001, 11:36:29 PM »
Ron is an inspiration to us all.
 
 It has been a GROUP effort all along, and will continue to be so with members like you.
 
 Take notes.
 
 Keep posting.
 
 Pictures, before and after, are surely welcome.
 
 Keep enjoying, fun, ain't it?!?
 
 Thanks, Stu.
 
 PS - got up to 1989 yet? (We '86'er's know how you feel)

8147
Main Message Board / Mainsheet & Website Have It All
« on: December 06, 2001, 03:33:57 PM »
Steve
 
 A C34 website search on "fuel screen" (search EXACT phrase) turned up two answers, one of which is:
 
 http://www.c34.org/tech-notes-index/tech-notes-index-1996.htm
 
 A very detailed explanation, hope it's what you're looking for.
 
 The search engine installed on our C34 website is one of the best I've seen.  In many cases, I use that to help message board "posters" find answers.  We know the website's VERY BIG, (and I'm only about 55% up on remembering it all myself!) but like Google or other search engines, sometimes you have to be patient and sometimes creative.
 
 Good luck.  If you get your screen out, come on over and you can remove mine!
 
 Happy Holidays to All,
 Stu

8148
Main Message Board / Radar Reflections
« on: December 02, 2001, 10:54:49 AM »
ONE MAN'S OPINION
 
 (Shamelessly copied on September 16, 1997 from
 Cruising World magazine, August 1995)
 
 I can no longer remain silent.  At first I thought it was just a few eccentrics, but I am now afraid that I am beginning to see a pattern. I think that the final straw was the recent article I read on sailing in fog that said that if I didn't have a radar on my boat, perhaps I had misappropriated my boating budget.  I must confess: I have no radar.
 
 Not only do I not have a radar, but I have no
 intentions of buying one.  My new gear priorities
 list does not even contain this item.
 
 I must go on:  I do not have a GPS.  Can you
 imagine that I actually sail - even cruise - without one?
 
 There's more.  I do not have roller furling.  Yes,
 that's right.  I actually have more than one jib
 and what is more, I have to hank it on - one hank
 at a time - every time I go sailing.  Wait!  When
 the wind is up and the seas build I actually go
 forward, on the top of the deck and - now get this
 - change to a different jib.  Can you believe that
 anyone can be so primitive?
 
 More.  My only electronics are a Loran (recently
 purchased), a speed/log, a depthsounder and a
 cheap VHF.  Yes, I will admit it.  My VHF is a low
 priced model!  Furthermore, my electronics are
 not interlinked or whatever fancy jargon
 aficionados use to indicate that their electronics
 talk to each other.  No, I do not have an
 anemometer.  At times I can be caught standing
 on deck estimating the wind speed.  I even go so
 far as to make sail changes based on the boat's
 sailing characteristics.  I have never told anyone
 this, but I am ready to bare all:  I don't have an
 apparent wind indicator.  I am not lying.  We use
 a piece of - I am so embarrassed - a piece of
 cassette tape tied to the shroud.  I do believe it
 was from "Smurfs Do the Whitbread" or
 something like that.
 
 At any rate, we survive and make port without
 calling for assistance.  We enjoy wonderful meals cooked on the Weber that hangs off the stern pulpit and corn on the cob cooked on, of all
 things, an alcohol stove.
 
 I could go on and on.  By now you must have
 figured out that my boat is OLD (1973).  Heaven
 forbid!
 
 It's hard to imagine that I could enjoy sailing
 under these abominable conditions, but the truth
 is that I am as addicted as the guy who has all
 the equipment.  I am proud to say that my boat is
 not a marina queen - she lives on a mooring -
 from which it is easier to sail her.  Her name is
 Trav'ler and I make sure she lives up to her
 name.
 
 We have lost sight of what this sport is all about.  We have lost sight of nature, of ourselves, and our God, unless your God is powered by 12 volts.  Mine is not.  Once - and I remember this - an RDF was considered a luxury.  I remember a trip in fog so thick (you know the cliché) and we made it home with nothing more than a compass, a depthsounder, a sumlog and a VHF.
 
 Once we even did a fog run without the sumlog,
 as it had broken.  We just estimated our speed.
 I know my boat so well that I could estimate her
 speed within a fraction of a knot.  What
 tremendous satisfaction there is in reaching your
 port using the true skills of a seaman.
 
 We often hear the lament of how nonsailors
 perceive our sport to be one that is reserved for
 the wealthy.  Is it any wonder when we read
 articles about how we all should have radar, or
 how our latest mast project only cost $1,200?
 These are elitist statements made by people
 who know nothing about the lives most of us live.
 Sailing can be done safely and enjoyably on a
 budget and I feel it is about time that those of us who sail on a budget speak up.
 
 
 Joe Higgins
 Crystal Lake, Illinois

8149
Main Message Board / More ST 4000 Fun & Games
« on: November 23, 2001, 04:21:49 PM »
The November 2001 Mainsheet had some input regarding these autopilots in the Catalina 28 Tech Notes.  I emailed the skipper who had the question, and suggested he check out our C34 website.
 
 Here's his reply:  THANKS, Kurt.
 
 
 Subj:  Re: Catalina 28 Autohelm Questions
 Date:  11/23/2001 7:18:11 AM Pacific Standard Time
 From:    kuehnkur@sunline.net (Kurt Kuehn)
 To:    Mraquaq@aol.com
 
 
 Thanks for your response to a problem I was having.
 
 Perhaps you can disseminate the following information throughout your network of Catalina associations since I believe the problems I had with my autopilot, especially the inability to steer an accurate course in a following sea, are germane to many Catalina boats.
 
 After one year of trying to resolve the problem on my 1 year old Catalina 28, a factory representative finally visited my boat, solved
 the problem, and give me information on how he was able to come up with a solution.
 
 First of all, the default settings in the Owners Handbook (P38) are either wrong, misleading, or useless depending on the boat size.  The factory representative acknowledged this as well as the Service Manager of Raymarine in Portsmouth, England.  In addition, the Service Manager
 also acknowledged that the ST 4000+ was not working properly on a wide number of Catalina boats.  He reimbursed me for work done earlier by an authorized service center - who claimed there was nothing wrong with the unit - and furthermore said he would install a rudder reference unit at
 no charge to me in order to achieve satisfactory performance.
 
 Last month, a factory representative (Rich LaRosa) and an assistant visited me to install the rudder reference unit.  However, there was no
 room for one. Rich told me that he had contacted Rick Tutle (818 970 0517) of Catalina  Yachts who actually installs the ST4000+ on the C28. Tutle told him that there is no room to install a rudder reference unit on the C28. LaRosa came to the same conclusion after a half hour of work.
 
 LaRosa told me that Tutle claimed that the following settings on the ST4000+ will work.  Tutle had said to use the default settings with the following changes:  Rudder gain = 2; Response = 2; AutoTrim = 2; Drive Type = 2.
 
 We then took the boat out on a sea trial.  The boat tracked fine in a following sea.  And I've had no problems with the ST4000+ since then in
 following seas up to 4 feet.  I haven't  encountered larger ones.
 
 The only additional advice that LaRosa gave me was to 'swing ship' and also steady on a course before engaging the autopilot.  And do not change the 'align rudder' setting from its default zero setting.  Also, keep the rudder gain low.  The last instruction seems to be counter intuitive when encountering bigger following seas, but he's right.
 
 I understand that if you call the factory in Nashua, New Hampshire they also have the correct settings for each boat.  But my advice is to first
 call the factory and talk to the ST4000+  installer for a particular line of Catalina boats.

8150
Main Message Board / C34 Engines
« on: November 21, 2001, 12:49:39 PM »
Kathy
 
 We have a 1986 C34 with an M25, a 21 hp engine.  It moves the boat, with a clean bottom and flat water, at 6.0 to 6.3 knots, at cruising RPMs.  We maintain an operating temperature of between 160 and 170 with a clean heat exchanger and heat exchanger zincs are changed regularly.  If necessary the throttle can be advanced to full to get 7.0 knots.  That ends up overheating the engine within about 10 minutes.  On an older M25 engine, one very good upgrade is to replace the old 2 inch heat exchanger with a newer 3 inch heat exchanger, not a hard job.  We recently purchased, but have not yet installed, the 3 inch model.  (Ever since I put the new heat exchanger onboard, the old one has been working just fine!  Does it know something I don’t?)  The C34 website has lots of information about heat exchangers and M25 overheating.  It is NOT an issue that should preclude you from buying a C34 with that engine.  We did, and we love the boat.
 
 In any event, whatever engine you get with the C34 you finally purchase, you will have no problems.  We’re in San Francisco, with its tides and current galore, and haven’t had any problems in almost three years.
 
 I have been measuring fuel consumption since we bought Aquavite in July 1998.  The average statistics are BETTER THAN 0.4 gallons per hour or 2.5 hours per gallon.  It shouldn’t differ much with the M25XP (23 hp) or M35 (30 hp) engines.  I do this because I didn’t bother to replace the inoperative fuel gauge.
 
 We also moved up, from a Catalina 25 with a 7.5 Mercury outboard.  Lots of folks have made that leap, it’s very do-able.  We also have a 3 bladed fixed prop.  Using prop walk is a piece of cake and fun to do.  The 3 bladed prop is almost more of an issue than the size of the engine.
 
 To summarize, any engine you get will be just fine.  After all, it’s the boat that surrounds the engine that is the best part!
 
 Best regards,
 
 Stu Jackson
 C34 International Secretary

8151
Main Message Board / Fill Cap "Lanyards"
« on: November 18, 2001, 05:08:57 PM »
Over the years, more horror stories have been written about losing the danged caps over the side because of the lanyards, or the breaking thereof.
 
 Yesterdays post gave a source for the older plastic caps.
 
 Given the problems experienced, we have taken to BREAKING THE CHAIN and placing the caps in a secure location whenever we atke one off, and not depending on the little chains EVER.  Besides, especially for the pumpout cap, they get in the way.  Why bother?
 
 It's a great way to save a few bucks for something else that's really necessary for your boat.

8152
Main Message Board / Diesel Fill Fuel Caps Source
« on: November 18, 2001, 06:07:05 AM »
Surfing the net and found that Catalina Direct has the Replacement Deck Pipe Caps
 
 Red - Fuel Z1874  $10.95
 Blue -Water  Z1872  $10.95
 Black - Waste Z1873 $10.95
 (December 2000 prices)
 
 See them at:
 http://www.catalinadirect.com/Deck%20Pipe%20Caps.html
 
 Tip:  You can make them last longer in the sun by rubbing sun tan lotion on them!
 
 Best regards,
 
 Stu Jackson
 Catalina 34 International Secretary

8153
Main Message Board / Fuel Filter Order
« on: November 16, 2001, 10:03:03 AM »
Tom
 
 You're right.  Many people have commented on this in the past.  Having the Racor first is the correct way to do it.  Looks like the factory got it backwards for the last fifteen years.
 
 Stu

8154
Main Message Board / Rigid Vang
« on: November 07, 2001, 04:31:16 PM »
Yes, it is the best thing since sliced bread.
 
 It gives you the purchase you need and looks great at a fair price.
 
 Yes, diss the topping lift, what a blessing.
 
 Go for it.
 
 There were some earlier discussions on this issue.  Try the search engine under topping lifts and/or rigid vangs.
 
 Best regards,
 
 Stu

8155
Main Message Board / Second Reefing Line Option
« on: October 28, 2001, 10:19:57 AM »
Rick
 
 We have two reefing points on our mainsail, however, neither one of them is continuous, as you describe.  
 
 There are separate tack and clew reefing lines for each of the two sets of reef points.  The reason I mention this is that the advantage I see in this system is that while there are twice as many lines to pull to reef, we get good purchase indivudally on both the tack and clew lines, and so assure that they are each tensioned and set properly.  
 
 While I have never used the single line type of installation, I have always wondered how, with the single line system, both the tack and clew could be tightened "perfectly," since my experience in our earlier boats and other rental/bareboats indicated that the clew reefing line(s) needed a lot more tension than the tack.  This is because the tack point and the mainsail luff can be tensioned with both the reefing line and the main halyard.
 
 On our Catalina 25, the tack hooked into a reefing hook at the gooseneck, so the halyard made up all of the necessary tension, and the clew was done by the traditional line at the aft end of the boom, then through the clew cringle forward to a cleat on the boom.  
 
 Based on the drawings in the Catalina 34 owner's manual, the stock C34s came with pretty much that same arrangement.
 
 Ours was modified by the PO so the clews run through (inside) the boom, exit near the gooseneck and are run back to the cockpit sheetstoppers through the deck turning blocks.  The tack liness work from cleats on the mast, up through the cringles on the sail and back to the cockpit, too.  I only need to hand tension the tack line to reef, but the clew line in use needs the winch on the cabintop to get it tight enough for a secure reef at the clew.
 
 You may want to consider the dual line setup for your second set of points, even though you have the single line setup on your first set.
 
 If you can't run the new second clew line inside your boom, you could do it outside and still use the two line setup.  
 
 There is plenty of room on the cabintop for more sheetstoppers.  We have three on each side:(looking from the cockpit forward, and from port to starboard) portside - 2nd reef clew and tack, 1st reef clew; starboard side - mainsheet, 1st reef tack, and main halyard.  
 
 Yes, we heretics use a sheetstopper for the mainsheet, and it is always kept open when sailing with the mainsheet on the selftailing cabintop winch.  I learned this from a bareboat (dare I say it?) Beneteau in the BVIs a few years ago.  (At least it wasn't a dreaded Hunter!)  
 
 Of course, you'll need the extra turning blocks on the forward cabintop to run all these lines aft.  We have six on each side, two stacks of three each.
 
 The mainsheet sheetstopper is a great improvement on that cheap cam cleat, doesn't ever pop out unexpectedly, and provides a much better fairlead to the winch, and, therefore, avoids winch overrides, which always had seemed to occur at the worst possible times.  I used to have to use two hands to crank in the mainsheet: one to hold the line down to avoid the override, and the other on the winch handle.  No more of that nonsense any more.  I was able to use one of the holes through the cabintop from the old cam cleat, and only had to drill one new hole to install the new Spinlock XA sheetstopper for the mainsheet.
 
 Even the new boats could use that improvement.
 
 Stu

8156
Main Message Board / Second Reef Location
« on: October 28, 2001, 07:43:19 AM »
Brad, our PO had had a second set of reef points installed just before he sold his boat to us in 1998.  The second set is the same distance above the first set as the first set is above the boom.  Here in SF where we get some heavy summer weather, I have never had to use the second set. I believe the reason for this is that we have a summer 85% jib and our winter jib is the 110%.  With the 85% jib and the first reef the boat balances very well (even using the autopilot) in apparent winds from 18 to 24 knots with some higher gusts.  With all the mainsail controls we have on our boats (wide travellers, boom vangs (ours is the Garhauer rigid model), good purchases on the mainsheet) even the single reefed mainsail can be flattened and positioned to accomodate a wide range of winds.  While I have never felt the need to use the second reef points, I am very glad they are there.  All the second reef lines are installed and ready to use at any time.      Stu

8157
Main Message Board / Wiring
« on: October 01, 2001, 04:52:02 PM »
1.  The heavier gage wiring idea makes sense.  However, that doesn't seem to be your problem.  The distribution wiring, from the panel to the lights, has always been "rather" small.  Even if you forget your fans, if you turn one light on, the others will dim.  Suggest you increase the size of the lighting wire distribution, and rather than running them all the way around the boat, run individual wires to each fixture.
 
 2.   Galley lighting ideas are posted on the website in PROJECTS.

8158
Main Message Board / Oil Drain Nut
« on: October 08, 2001, 06:29:52 PM »
The caution to NOT remove this nut was in a recent Mainsheet, I believe, most likely from Ron Hill.  
 
 The reason, if I remember correctly, is that the washer is not made to be reseated.  I apologize for not remembering the details, just the concept.
 
 And also remember:
 
 "Don't let the nut holding the wheel get tight!
 
 Stu

8159
Main Message Board / Filter Equivalents
« on: September 27, 2001, 03:38:52 PM »
1.   Check the C34 website, FAQs, April May 2000, Filter Equivalents.  The different models for different engines are already posted there.
 
 If anyone with newer M35 engines have additions, please send them on to Mark Elkin, the new FAQ associate webmaster, so he can update the FAQ.  Thanks.
 
 2.   I first used Herb Schnieder's ideas for oil changes in the Feb 1990 issue of Mainsheet (you can see it through Tech Notes Online if you are an IC34 Association Member).  Don't ever undo the nut at the bottom of the oil pan.  I used the hose that was attached.  I have more recently used Ron Hill's Par Handy Boy pump method through the dipstick.  Both worked fine for me without the expense and added storage problems of yet another specialty, one-only use piece of equipment.
 
 Use the websearch feature for oil filters, filters, oil changes, and you'll find plenty of opinions.
 
 3.   Charlie L:  if you're not getting it all out, you may need to consider the fact that the oil pan slopes somewhat.  Take a look underneath.  There's been some discussion of this in the past, can't remember where.  If you use the dipstick and can only get 75% out, you'll need to "zoom" the end of the tube that's inside the oil pan around a bit more.  Good luck.

8160
Main Message Board / New Boat Owner
« on: October 11, 2001, 04:19:28 PM »
Steve
 
 You don't have it "bad" you have it "good!"  Trick I've learned is to put the To Do List on the computer. First, it keeps getting longer.  Second (which I learned only after a while, keep the stuff you've completed ON the list, put "DONE" next to it.  That way, you'll feel like you're making progress even though the list is getting longer!
 
 There is NO cure.  Besides, who'd want one?  Glad you chose the 34 over the 28.  Like Ken Killian, you don't need to win the lottery to get everything done, just keep the boat forever.
 
 Best regards,  Stu
 
 PS  C34 Association Members get a break on Boat US membership if you're thinking of them for insurance.

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