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Photo of Transmission model and a couple of videos.  I don't see anything wrong with the linkage, but the sounds the transmission/engine is making in neutral is not what it normally sounds like.  Something soungs 'rattley'.

https://youtube.com/shorts/427HSVWaLsk?feature=share
https://youtube.com/shorts/6pg4adHzD8I?feature=share

Came into the fuel dock and shifted into reverse to slow the boat down and to my surprise it increased speed.

After a hair raising, bounce off the fuel dock and a panic stop I had a chance to test things out.

Shifts into forward and that seems normal, but shift into reverse and goes forward as well. There are also some notices that weren't there before.

I'll up load a video to YT ASAP but thought I'd ask you folks now anyways.

[B]

pby : The first thing you need to do is like Ken mentioned - take off the belt and see if you have wobble in the pulley shaft.  Maybe you don't need a new pump!!

On tightening/tensioning the belt - on my new M25XPBengine I can't use the belt tensioner that I had for the old M25XP engine. I am able to push on the alternator with one hand and then tighten the bolt with the other.  I can't fit the belt tensioner in anymore!!  (I've got the older large case Balmar alternator)

A few thoughts

I can hear a slight clicking sounds when a over the pump up and down it's a very slight noise but it's there. Also nothing is coming out of the weeping hole (I had the paper in) and after I cleaned up the discolouration in the photos with CLR there has been no further discolouration.

I'm a bit puzzled at this point...

[Breakin]

Breakin confirmed he installed a 2-1/4" pump and the part number.
https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,9461.msg77421.html#msg77421

What are you questioning?  Where did you obtain "for a 2000 Catalina the part number is 16251-73032".

I think if you need further confirmation than Breakin's actual install, you might need to call several dealers (as Breakin did) until you find one in stock and confirm the part number and impeller size.
Or as I said earlier Kumar Bros lists a replacement to the Westerbeke part number (I believe on Amazon.)

Breakin's post says 16251-73032 is for 'Old' i.e <= 2005.

"Old" pumps with 2.25" impeller: 16241-73030, 16241-73032, 16241-73033, 16241-73034, 16241-73037, 16251-73030, 16251-73032 (current model, but seems to change frequently).

But your post says, 16251-73032 is for >=2005.

Jan 2005 and => (date code E501) the current Kb P/Ns are 16251-73032 70mm impeller pump /  gasket; replaces Wb pump 201107 / gasket 301107

I'd love to go to a dealer and see, but this is Canada, or around here at least keeping parts in stock is unlikely.  The US of A is way ahead on stuff like that.  Canada not so much....  as I said they'll order it in, and if it's wrong its a 20% restock and $20 shipping.  That's half of what it costs.

I'd like to be 100% sure it's the correct part number as I have no way to actually see the part up front.

In case anyone cares, you can turn an ordinary hose into a siphon hose using a rag and a straw. Place the hose and straw into the jerry can, seal it up by holding a rag over the lid, and blow through the straw. Once the diesel fills the hose and the siphon starts (going into the tank, of course), stop blowing.

Genius!

PBYRNE, 
When the hot water gets funky on Shamrock I just flush the hot water with regular water.  Open galley sink, head sink and cockpit shower run for 5 minutes, wait, repeat a few times.  Then refill the aft water tank.
The hot water tank is not quick to flush, it's made to mix hot and cold water, opening the drain will still leave water in the tank, a few inches.

That and trying to use the hot water, even if it's not hot, as much as possible works for me.
Hope that helps,
Jim

Another thing that comes to mind.  If the lines are funky the smell would be strong at first then less as more fresher water flows.  If the tank is funky the smell would continue. 

I'll try that.  Is it safe to leave bleach in the tanks for long periods of time?  I use it to flush the system in the spring and then switch to a sodium percarbonate/sodium bicarbonate power from Captain Phab.  Basically, it introduces hydrogen peroxide into the water.

The cold water is completely odourless and clear, but the hot water.. well nothing so far.

Maybe I should just use bleach at all times...

pby : It's the water lines from the water heater!! Look at my Mainsheet tech note article where I change out my lines from the water heater.

Also change out your anode in the water heater itself!!

A few thoughts

Interesting!  To be more specific, the water has a strong sulfur smell from the galley, the head, or aft cockpit faucet.  Is it ALL those lines that need to be changed?!

I forgot to mention you should get yourself a shaker type siphon hose to transfer the diesel from  the jerry can to the fuel tank. I bought mine a long time ago, don't remember where I got it. Much easier than dealing with a full jerry can. I set the 5 gal jerry can on the coaming near the diesel fuel fill port. Put open end of the tube in the diesel fill port, the shaker end in the jerry can. Shake the siphon tube to get diesel flowing, then sit back and watch it empty the can into the tank. Depending where I'm getting the diesel from, I also have a smaller version of the second photo. It leaves a little diesel in the filter that I pour through bunched up cheese cloth fitted in the fill port.

Great suggestions!  I have the siphon and that was a bloody miracle to use.  I put the can on the princess seat and use the siphon.  Easy peasy.

It seems funky smells are often from the lines rather than the tanks. This applies to fresh water, and the sanitary system. Could you try disconnecting it from the plumbing, adding some water, and then checking that sample? We were just doing some work on our forward tank, which always appears clean through the inspection port. When I pulled off the vent line, it was full of some pretty nasty stuff.

Already did that.  Both tanks on cold water come out fresh and clear. Overflow lines look good.  One advantage of a fresh water boat,in a freaking cold climate that spends 6 months on the hard.

No matter what I do, I don't seem to be able to get the water that comes from the hot water tank to smell 'ok'.  It's always got this slightly putrid scent to it.

I've flushed the tanks with bleach solution as per Catalina manual TWICE, and scrubbed the forward (yes scrubbed it) tank and added the 'fresh water cleaner' powder stuff.

Cold water smells great, hot water tank not so much.

To be fair the hot water tank doesn't get a lot of use, as we get to the boat every 2 weeks.

I don't mind doing something to flush the hot water tank when we get there, but I don't know what will work to make it sanitary as I'm assuming 'bad smell' equals DON'T USE IT FOR ANYTHING.

Selfishly, what I really want the hot water for is a SHOWER!!

Any suggestions?

[Jan 2005]

Breakin

I plumb forgot that you had gone thru that!  And I did actually look on the wiki about B engines. -- I added a note to your wiki post to clarify that it pertains to "the Bs".

Kubota seems to change their part numbers every couple of years, so the the current numbers may have changed by now (at least once):

For "B" engines built:
<=Dec 2004 (date code E412) the current Kb P/Ns are 16241-73037 60mm impeller pump; replaces Wb pump 200820.  Kumar Bros P/N 200820.

Jan 2005 and => (date code E501) the current Kb P/Ns are 16251-73032 70mm impeller pump /  gasket; replaces Wb pump 201107 / gasket 301107; for

The benefit of using Messicks is that if you search a Kb P/N, it gives you the history of any past P/Ns that "your" number supersedes and it also shows if "your" number is superseded by a newer P/N.

Noted that you had some difficulty because there were apparently two (or more) completely different P/Ns for the same 60mm pump.  The way Kb numbers its parts is by the equipment it is on so a Kb tractor, Skid Steer, excavator, and generator might all have different P/Ns for exactly the same part.  When searching for some parts I have found that depending on what Kb model equipment it is on, the price of the identical part can vary -- sometimes significantly.     

Note also that Kumar DOES carry the 2-1/4" pump; search for the Wb P/N on the Kumar site.

A reason why EDI might not have found the P/N is that different divisions (say an agricultural dealer) can sometimes NOT be able to access/buy P/Ns that are from the other division (Dealer protection -- just like Wb has strict dealer territory agreements.)

Old" pumps with 2.25" impeller: 16241-73030, 16241-73032, 16241-73033, 16241-73034, 16241-73037, 16251-73030, 16251-73032 (current model, but seems to change frequently).

"New" pumps with 2.75" impeller: 16251-73034, 16251-73037 (very recent change not shown on most dealers' lists)

Ok, need some help.  According to the original post, for a 2000 Catalina the part number is 16251-73032, but in the above post it's listed as the part number for the 2005 and greater.

I asked the local Kubota for 73032 and the have it for $$264.36 CAD + 13% tax...and they can't tell me the impeller size.  If I return it, other than the massive PITA that would be after removing the pump, they want a 20% restock.

Exact guidance on the correct P/N would be greatly appreciated! 

Dumbest mishap ever. Put 23 gallons of diesel into empty stern water tank in error before catching it. Let it run into bilge, pumped it into buckets and properly disposed of it. Cleaned up as well. What is best way to assure that the water tank is clean. The very helpful fellow at the dock said vodka!

If the diesel is only in tank and didn't make it anywhere else into the system, I would pump it out and then remove the tank for a thorough cleaning.

Realistically there is no way to clean the tank by flushing it connected to your water system. You'd just spread the contamination.

I don't know if this is best practice, but it's a way. I installed Trex boards with SST u-bolts to the port and starboard lifeline stantions. I can carry 3 (water or fuel) of the tall version 5 gallon jerry cans per side. The cans aren't in the way going forward because my jacklines run to the inboard side of the chainplates so I have to go onto the cabin top past the shrouds anyway.

How do you secure the Jerry cans to the board?

What makes for a good board?

We keep a single jerry can aboard to be able to stay out of marinas a bit longer.

We keep it strapped to the front of the pedestal at the moment but its awkward, and we also have a gas tank for the outboard to deal with.

What's the best practice for securing the jerry can? 

Does changing the pump fix both issues..?

I believe Ron may have been thinking of the seawater pump (which has oil and water seals.)  Have you researched your Parts Manual?  It shows the exploded parts of the coolant pump, which is actually really simple (probably the simplest turning piece on your engine.)  It's invaluable to  familiar with the manual -- it answers many questions and can be a lifesaver in an emergency situation!
The coolant pump has only one seal between the water chamber and the shaft.

Dealers in Ca are bit different than in the US re: what equipment they can order parts for.
The Kubota Global website has a search for dealers in every region by the type of equipment.

You do not need to unbolt anything to check for wobble.

Remove the belt and see if the shaft will wobble.

Yeah, I'll take a look when I get back to the boat. It's 2 hours away at the moment.

Look like there is a Kubota dealer in town.  I'll see what they make of that P/N.

How tricky is it to retension the belt?  I don't have anything other than standard hand tools on board. Do you need a lot of leverage?