Messages

If the Tach is off before you trash it exercise the DIP switches or rotary switch setting.  Contacts can become oxidized and produce false readings.  There's troubleshooting for that in a manual for the gauges.  If you don't find it on C34 Wiki I can probably find it elsewhere.

This it?

[your]

pby : I believe that the tach range for your engine should be  0 to about 2800 rpm (maybe slightly more when not in gear!!)  Idle should be about 1000 rpm so it idles smooth and doesn't rattle you teeth!!

Try Ken's suggestion about cleaning the Tach wire connections at the alternator.  Hard to tell you which colored wires on your alternator??  (mine are the white and the brown wires)

A few thoughts

I'll do that!  I found some photos that might help, but I don't see any wires in them, so maybe not very useful.

I replaced mine with a reed switch type sending unit from Catalina Direct. PN Z3529.

Yeah.  That's the part from CD https://www.catalinadirect.com/shop-by-boat/catalina-36/engine/instruments/fuel-tank-sending-unit-12quot-stainless-c-34-c-36-25-gal-tank/ '

that I think is a direct match for this:  https://www.marineoutfitters.ca/index.cfm?category=10025|10273&product=75153522&code=739729000038

No one knows what tank you have except you! Lots of changes possible, often varying boat to boat. Take off the bulkhead and measure the height of tank. Or even better, remove the sender and measure it.

True.  The boat is 2 hours away and I have to order it.  I've only got a limited time this weekend to fix it, so I'm willing to make an educated guess as to the size so I can work on it this weekend.

I found some photos that are not perfect, but they do show the size of the tank.  It seems to fill the space, and I think it's supposed to be 25 gallons.

I'm not at the boat to check, but would the 12" sender listed here but the correct replacement?

https://www.marineoutfitters.ca/index.cfm?category=10025|10273&product=75153522&code=739729000038

No clue, I am not a mechanic. Others may respond with more helpful info. However, if your boat goes 6+ knots (confirmed by GPS in slack water) with tach reading 1600, I suspect your tach is reading incorrectly.

LOL. Fair enough.

Something else that came to mind is that the boat was just moved to a marina where we used the marina's fuel.  Prior to that it was jerry can fed from Shell Gas Pumps.  I'm thinking maybe I should consider the possibility the filters need changed.

Previously, they were changed infrequently from what I can tell.  It was on my list for fall maintenance with the oil change for winterization.... but maybe it needs to be done now?  Seems wierd that a top up ONCE would cause an issue with filters though...

[VC-17 isn't compatible with any other paints]

Dan,

In Lake Michigan I've gone two seasons without repainting with no ill effects.  Will you be returning to Michigan after your trip and how long and where will you be in salt water? 

VC-17 isn't compatible with any other paints (see https://www.interlux.com/en/ca/support/boat-painting-tips/is-my-new-antifouling-compatible) so I'd select  paint based on where the boat will spend most of its time.

Kyle

That's why I keep using it.  If I had a chance to go with something else, without having to clean the hull to the gel coat I would.   Your choice of course, however I don't find the benefits of VC17 to be worth having to redo it with what looks like copper but is priced like gold...

Maybe have a look at this thread?  I posted my setup in this link: https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,11730.msg94988.html#msg94988

It is easier to have a helper when checking tach with laser. One person on laser and one in cockpit at throttle. Run though idle to full throttle (in neutral)—communicating with each other, and charting the results every 100 RPMs or so— comparing actual (laser) to tach readings. Error rate/difference may vary and not be constant throughout the range. You may want to just make a deviation chart and use/memorize /refer to it instead of trying a adjust out the tach error.

Got it.

Anything else I can focus on?  If I find the RPM's are too low on the engine then what?

Ok. Laser Tach on order.

Reading this thread, I will say that nothing has been done to the engine https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,11302.msg90447.html#msg90447. 

Oil changed last year, fresh fuel, starts immediately, and hasn't missed a beat the couple of times we had her out. In fact you can hear it here: https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,11687.0.html

For completeness what/how should I be verifying the linkage, cables etc, to make sure I've inspected everything.  The engine sounds fine to me other than it's not rev'ing as high as I think it should; by sound anyways.

At the moment I'm going to:
1) check RPM at idle in slip
2) check RPM with Laser Tach
3) Alternator (which I'm not sure how to do)
3)???
4)???

I'm 2 hours away from the boat, so I have to check everything when I'm there.

I have a variprop 3 blade.  I'm uncertain of the pitch, as it came with the boat.

But, I can say it provides good thrust, never is an issue going between forward and reverse, and it's very well made.  It's a lovely piece of engineering.  It probably the only thing on the boat I actually look forward to servicing!  No idea why...

It does need to be greased seasonally though.

pby : Th equalize the temperature difference between the top and the bottom of the fridge box here what I do:

I purchased a "Fridge Mate" - it's a "D" battery small fan.  I tied a line on it so it loops around the Temp control and is pointed slightly down.  It really works, out of the way and the battery lasts for MANY hours.  After a trip you just pop out the battery and it's ready to go for the next time!!

A thought

That's a great idea! 

Actually, Ron, it's not that simple on this whale diverter. When the handle is parallel to those two hoses int's not a flow-thru like you'd think. The long end of the handle points to the direction of flow, so it's always parallel. If I turn it 90deg nothing pumps beyond that diverter. It took a few hours of searching before I found the answer on an Ericson site, and that guy had to email Attwood (Whale pumps) to get an answer...odd setup.

Thanks for your response.

Actually looking at the design that makes sense.  It has to be a 90 degree angle in the valve, and the hoses are 180 degress appart.  You have to rotate a full 180 to create a connection to the other hose.  90 degress will just close it.

Huh! Learned something.

I can't wait for the weekend, I was able to arrange to have the bottom of my boat media blasted. I think this could have been one the the largest jobs of refitting this boat. My question is a lot of the boats here in Michigan use VC17 for their bottom paint. How long will this last and if I was to start the loop and go towards salt water would I have to remove the VC17 to repaint it with bottom paint that would be good for salt water. After the media blast do I need to first clean everything then put a barrier coat paint before the bottom paint or the VC17??

I would avoid VC17.  It wears off quickly and would need to be applied seasonally.  It's very $$$, and you need 4-6 cans of the stuff.  It's intended for fresh or cold salt water.

I use it as we haul out for winter and frankly I don't want to start over.  But given the choice I'd go for something you can just power wash or scrub for cruising.
VC17 is really for racing from what I can tell.  https://www.interlux.com/en/us/boat-paint/antifouling

No.You stick some white reflective tape (included) to the main crankshaft pulley and aim the laser at it through the belt.

Ah! That makes more sense.  Do you put the tape inside the pulley groove or on the outside edge, front face next to the belt groove?