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Then you got your answer!!!   

A thought

I thought so, but then the 14x7 comment came up! LOL

Pbyrne,

Out of curiosity, I looked up my CS dimensions.  It is a 13.750 x 7.  I am able to reach max RPM at full throttle (about 25 to 50 rpm shy) and cruise at 2400 to 2600 rpm at about 6.25kts and max at about 7.1 to 7.2kts at 3150 rpm.

Interesting.  That means what they quoted is over pitched at 14x8...?

I use Rottella T1 30W.
I suck oil out through the dipstick
Filter should only be hand tight
Coat new filter gasket with a bit oil before screwing it in.
Read manual on your engine for amount of oil. Generally it takes just over four quarts. Check dipstick while changing to make sure you don't overfill. "Been there done that" and had to suck a bit back out. A PIA if discovered after you have cleaned up and put away your pump.;-)

Dipstick it is! Noted on level. LOL  I know this isn't T1, but the local chandlery carries this.  What do you think?  https://www.marineoutfitters.ca/index.cfm?category=10025|10788&product=81159275&code=021400058750

I'm setting up to change the oil this year.  Previous years I simply ran out of time and had the local mechanic do it.

I'm picking up a Pela vacuum pump, I have filters, but need to get oil, and I would like to know if a tool is needed to remove or secure the filter.  I used to have a kind of massive socket that would fit over the filter on my motorcycle, but not sure that is the correct tool for the Universal.

Also, I believe it's 4 quarts of oil that is required.

So is the below correct:

Use oil removal pump on oil hose
Use oil dipstick hole to remove any remaining oil
Leave hose in small pan to get final oil out over time
Total should be 4 qts
Is a tool needed to remove filter (or just a strap?)
Should you fill the oil filter prior to installation (I think so)
What is the correct oil, and amount needed

pby : What does the manufacturer of the Campbell Prop recommend for a C34 with an M35B engine????

A thought

3 blade RH 14x8.

I have a 34 mk2 with the M35B engine with a campbell sailor prop.

Stamped on one side of the hub is"D14 RH P8".  On the other side is "S20707"

I have photos, but can't figure out how to attach them.

Craig

That is what is recommended by CS.  Do you find it over pitched?  Meaning, can you get to full RPM of 3000?

[Based on the above suggested prop size is 3 blade RH 14x8.]

Reply from west by north below in full.  Looks like a 3 blade RH 14x8, is the recommendation.  Matches what people have said they have here.

Now, as rmjohns mentions, he's not getting full RPM with 7.5 pitch, let alone 8.  Does anyone have any experience to add to rmjohns?


West by North <kelsey@westbynorth.com>
Mon, Aug 26, 4:12 PM (22 hours ago)
to me

Hi Peter,

Thank you for your interest in West by North Industries and the Campbell Sailer Propeller.

This recommendation assumes a Catalina 34 MKII on a Universal M-35B engine (35hp @ 3000 RPM max). Transmission is Hurth HBW-100 with a ratio of 1.79 to 1. Shaft diameter is 1.0 inch and rotation at the prop is RH. Please advise if different.

Based on the above suggested prop size is 3 blade RH 14x8.

The Campbell Sailer has cupped blades and a leading edge foil. This increases prop efficiency converting a larger percentage of available HP directly into thrust. As a result we often size smaller than other manufacturers for a given installation.

The Campbell Sailer offers the perfect balance between powering, maneuvering and low drag performance. It's the lowest drag fixed 3 blade on the market. Up to 35-40% less drag when compared to equivalent size units from other manufacturers. The Campbell prop is renown for how smooth it runs throughout the entire RPM range.

Pricing is CAD $985.00. Freight with Canada Post is (5-6 business days) is CAD $36.00. Ontario HST (13%) will apply. Manufacturing time is approximately 6-8 business days on order.

We accept e-Transfer or credit card via telephone. We can also send you a link to complete payment through PayPal. This is a convenient and secure method to complete credit card payment. PayPal account not required and no additional fees apply.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Smooth sailing,
Kelsey

West by North Industries
778-802-4202

Thanks guys.  I'm not trying to be difficult. I just thought there would be similarity in the props when engine is the same.

I've read the forum on CS, and it seemed there was some back and worth with CS to sort it out, which I'd like to avoid (short sailing season, and expensive haulouts), and I couldn't see how there would be a difference between my 34 / M35B powered boat and the next guy.

Part of my thinking is that considering the discussions about the prop pitch, armed with the knowledge on this forum, I would be better prepared to have the conversation with CS.

I recently bought a campbell sailor.  They run different pitches and diameters than stock so Ron's recommendations are not likely accurate for the CS prop.  The fellow that sells them has a rather long back log of data and can recommend the correct pitch and diameter for your boat.

AH.  What did you end up with seeing as you have one.

I currently have a Variprop that needs to go in for service as for whatever reason it locked up in the forward pitch only, and we ended up bouncing off the fuel dock.

AB Marine said $1000-1600 USD for a service which in Canadian Pesos isn't worth it for 4 months of sailing a year, and the overall hassle of maintaining it.

I have noted that Campbell Sailor seems to be a popular option and against all odds is made in Canada, so no BS exchange rate to USD.

What I'd like to know is for our boats, with an M35B what is the correct diameter, and pitch?  I can see from the discussions that there is a bit of a difference of opinion due to the engine and RPM matching=pitch.

Thoughts on what's the right prop for an M35B?

Anyone have an experience with using the Strut Pro collect for cutlass bearing replacement with a DIY press?

It's around $600 CAD for the kit, for something I probably will never do again on this boat, or once every 15 years.  Not a good value IMHO.

The approach, and the collects are sound though.

Anyone make there own press and just order the collets?

Bit of an update.  I spoke to AB Marine about a service on the prop and it's $1000-1600 USD plus whatever shipping.  New Variprop is about $3000 USD.  With our worthless Canadian dollar that's a hell of a lot of money for 3 months of sailing.

So, I'm considering just ditching it and buying a new fixed 3 blade, like a Campbell Sailor out of BC.  I don't know the prices yet but at least it's in Canadian Pesos.

I'm sure people here have thoughts on this, and I'd love to hear them.

Very nice! I like the i70s.  I find them beefy but functional.  They have a nice screen and are easy to read.

Do you find them difficult to read from that distance?  That's one thing I like about having them on the helm; they are easy to read and change the display with the up/down multifunction buttons.

pby : Empty the bilge!! 

Then take a piece of paper towel and wrap it around each and EVRY hose connection!!!  Operate the boat so all of the functions under the galley sink have water flowing thru them.

Then check each for wetness!!   

A thought

Good idea! I can't move it right now but I can certainly do the dishes! 

Here is another possibility... the temp and pressure valve on the hot water tank releases water out of the tank when water temp or pressures get too high.  When you run the boat's engine, you heat the water enough to expand its volume and thus raise the pressure in the hot water loop.  The T&P valve will open slightly and bleed off some of this pressure and some of the water as well.  Since your tank is likely older, the hose that came with the tank's T&P valve has long since disappeared so now the water drips onto the raw plywood shelf Catalina made to hold the tank.  This water gets discolored by the plywood and eventually ends up in the bilge.

Hmm! Now that is interesting.  I know there is only a hose on the drain as I put it there.  There is no hose on the pressure release.  I wondered if the discolouration was the wood.  You get the same thing with leaking deck hardware...