Join the C34 Association Today!
[C34 Home] [C34Tech Notes] [C34 Tech Wiki] [Join!]
Please login or register.
Advanced search  


Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Topics - pbyrne

Pages: [1] 2
Main Message Board / What's a healthy engine sound like?
« on: Yesterday at 01:25:37 PM »
I've been reading with interest the thread on alternator belts and engine temp, and taking a look at my engine.  At 23 years old, but low hours (less than 900), it seems like it's in good shape, but I don't know what a diesel marine engine is supposed to sound like.  I have no reference, as compared to a car, which I know what is normal.

This may sound odd, but can I get some feedback on the way the engine 'sounds'?  There are 2 vids, one idiling and another with forward engaged at idle.  She's tied up at the dock still if that matters.

How does the old girl sound? Anything to look into?  Also, a couple of pics of the back of the engine, just in case!


Idle Forward:

I'm a bit unsure about what's needed to enter the US from Canada via Lake Ontario or 1000 Islands.  Transport Canada web site says 'To travel abroad and be recognized internationally as a registered vessel' you must Register the vessel.

However, in numerous sites I find a reference to Registration OR Licensing.  Such as here:

The following information must be available when reporting:

Name, Date of Birth & Citizenship of Master (with supporting documentation
Name of Boat
Boat Registration or Licence Number
U.S. Decal Number (if 30 feet or longer)
Name, Date of Birth, Citizenship of all passengers with supporting documentation
Home port
Current location

Anyone have any guidance on this?  Maybe there is an understanding in North America that Registered vessels are not required?

Does anyone have any experience with Stainless Outfitters Handi-Lift Outboard Motor Lift?

Seems a lot of people are happy with the Garhauer LD6-1 OM Davit Lifting System, but the Handi-lift is a few hunder cheaper, and can be stowed.

Just wonder if anyone has one and what they think.

Main Message Board / Dinghy Warranty
« on: May 05, 2023, 08:24:40 PM »
Looking for a new dinghy and engine, and it's been a bit of a mine field getting current solid info on warranties.

Who's making dinghy's with a good trust worthy warranty?   I'm sure there is plenty of experience here!

Main Message Board / Equipment needed to tighten keel bolts
« on: April 26, 2023, 08:42:30 AM »
I was in the bilge the other day and noticed that the aft most keel bolt had more of a gap between washer and underside of nut than the other keel bolt nuts. 

Sure enough I could tighten that bolt with a cresent wrench.  Visually, the other bolts look better, but I think it's time to check them all.

I have a torque wrench that will go to 250 LBS/ft so getting to 107 ft/lbs (this is the correct number I believe), so I think I'm ready there.

However, I would appreciate confirmation of the parts I need to buy to be able to torque the bolts.

Socket: From this thread:,7356.0.html
1 1/8" 6 point extra deep socket - 1/2" drive

Questions. For a 2000 MK II:
1 - What is the length of the extension needed?

2 - What is the depth of the socket needed?

Main Message Board / Anode guidance
« on: April 04, 2023, 02:14:04 PM »
The boat is always in freshwater during summer months, and on the hard for about 5 months.

The prop is a variprop that has a zinc anode on it, the shaft has a zinc anode, and I'm assuming the engine is all zinc too.

I've read various things on the forum, and I'm looking for clear advice on what if anything, I should switch to.  Leave the zinc, magnesium, aluminum?

What I'd also like to know is if you can leave some zinc, and switch to some magnesium?   I ask as the magnesium for the prop is very expensive, and I don't even know if you can magnesium for the engine..?

Anyways, some reasonable combo advice would be be great.  I just want to try and protect the boat as best as possible.

Main Message Board / Alternative to attach rode to chain
« on: April 03, 2023, 12:55:37 PM »
I've got a rode and chain setup, and the thimble of the rode gets jammed in the bow roller on retrieval and as you probably know, it's bloody tricky to free it.

Other than bashing the thimble into something that fits more easily through the bow roller or weaving the rode into the chain, is there another mechanical connection out there that I could use? 

I'm not keen on rode directly on chain due to chaffing, so I'm leaning to giving the thimble a bit of a 'reshaping', but would rather have something that is closer to the diameter of the rode/chain in general, as even if I 'reshape' it it's still fairly large.


Main Message Board / Rudder Movement
« on: February 16, 2023, 12:06:04 PM »
I've gone through the forum, and read a number of the 'rudder' posts, (no pun intended), and I didn't see anything that mentioned what I'm seeing.

I can move the rudder, externally, on the hard, side to side what seems like an excessive and unnecessary amount.  The movement is not between the rudder shaft, and the bushing, but the bushing and the hull.

Note the rudder has been replaced, due to it being damaged running aground, however I don't have the exact details of what happened.

Here is a video that shows what I'm talking about.  Sorry, it's not the best, but you can see what I'm talking about if you watch closely at the bushing and hull point at the top of the rudder.

Any thoughts on this? It doesn't seem right to me.

Main Message Board / Are our grids glassed to the hull or bonded
« on: September 19, 2022, 07:17:16 PM »
Just watched a horror story on YT where a band new Hanse 418 was run aground and it need the interior removed, and 40K GBP to repair it.

The grid was/is 'bonded' aka glued to the hull not glassed to the hull, and between the shape of the keel and the shape of the hull (flat, making a 90 degree angle between keel and hull) there was a LOT of leverage, and the grid was separated from the hull, and the keel dropped away from the hull a bit.

Absolute mess.

This got me thinking, it's when not if you run aground, and how are are boats built?  I guess a follow up is who builds a modern boat that can take a grounding and not need 40K of repairs.  I looked at Hallberg Rassy and even they say they 'bond' the grid.

I did a quick search here and I didn't really find anything so I thought I'd ask.

Main Message Board / Hull bottom paint question- What am I looking at?
« on: February 10, 2022, 02:07:55 PM »
Need a bit of help understanding what I'm seeing.  The boat is in freshwater, and gets a VC17 antifouling every year.  It looks like some kind of paint needs to be replaced, but I don't know if it's the barrier coat or...?

To make matters more interesting there is a note in the manual that says:

"Bottom Painting and Blister Protection:
Calalina models are manufactured with an integrally molded blister protection system in the hull laminate. This water absorption barrier material is between the gel coat surface layer and the laminates of the hull.

The bottom may be prepared for painting using conventional de-waxing solvents, then sanding the gel coat surface or using a chemical etching primer.  The keel has been painted using epoxy primer, filler fairing compound and finished with epoxy paint.  This material is a suitable substrate for most anti-fouling systems"

So does this mean a barrier coat was/is needed?

This is all new to me, what am I looking at and what needs to be done?

Also, is there a low maintenance bottom that can be put on instead of VC17?  We're in the Great White (ice and snow) North, so it's haul out and launch every year, and a power wash at the end of the season whether we want one or not.  VC 17 is rather expensive, and I'd rather spend the $100s on the boat itself if possible.

Main Message Board / Replacement stainless steel fuel cap
« on: August 02, 2021, 06:43:33 AM »
Lost my diesel fuel cap overboard while refilling.

Need a replacement.  They are the stainless steel type.

Any suggestions where to get them? Catalina Direct doesn't seem to have a match.  Saw this on Amazon

Main Message Board / Charging trolling motor battery
« on: July 12, 2021, 03:59:37 PM »
What's a good way to charge a trolling motor battery (we use the trolling motor for the dinghy) using the boats electrical system?

There is a 400w inverter but that seems odd to use considering its 12v to 12 v.

Suggestions for battery size and charge would be good too.

Main Message Board / Wifi Extender
« on: June 18, 2021, 06:51:25 PM »
Looking for info on how to use this Wifi extender setup.  I'm assuming I need some kind of extender device that plugs into the CAT 5 outlet?

Main Message Board / Testing speed and wind instrument connections
« on: June 13, 2021, 07:09:50 AM »
I dried out the speed transducer for a month in the hull, and replaced the outter o-ring which had cracked, and reinstalled all on the hard; cleaned the heck out of it too.  Should be no water in the transducer area.  From what I understand the transducer can be removed in the water, cleaned and replaced, so getting wet is part of the design.  I had it working intermittently yesterday showing 5-6 knots.  Nothing most of the time and at low speeds.

Didn't have a problem last year with the wind instruments but MIA yesterday for apparent wind. 

The mast comes down every year, instruments are removed and stored in boat for winter, and this year due to a leaking pedestal guard, I disassembled the wiring for the pedestal (in aft berth), cleaned with brass brush, contact cleaner and applied Boeshield T9.

Masthead wind instrument connection, mast base, and the afore mentioned pedestal connections below in aft berth were all brass brushed (as possible), contact cleaned, and T9'd.

Any ideas where the issue might be?  I can't check the mast base, no access port, and no way to drop the mast.

What I can do is put a meter on the wiring and see what it shows, but I could use some guidance on what's what and what to look for in the wiring.

I'm ready to evaluate a wireless solution and replace the lot! :)

Main Message Board / Repair foam air filter attachment
« on: May 09, 2021, 06:53:25 AM »
Is it possible to reglue the ends or repair the foam pre filter?  They cost $28 for nothing.  Hoping this can simply be glued back together Gorilla glue...

Pages: [1] 2