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Messages - Stu Jackson

Pages: 1 2 3 [4] 5 6 ... 555
46
Main Message Board / Re: Holding Tank Vent Question
« on: August 06, 2019, 12:08:59 PM »
I'm on my boat now:

horiz diagonal from tank to rise behind the woodwork:  4 feet

vertical rise:  4 feet

horiz to base of stanchion:  1 foot

Wiggle room:  add another foot (it is, after all, YOUR money!!!:D)

However, if I was doing it, I'd go for the mushroom vent on the hull side and forget about the vented stanchion.  Check out the 101 Topics for how to do that.

47
Main Message Board / Re: Anchor locker hatches
« on: August 06, 2019, 12:02:33 PM »
I use Ken's hooks at both ends, PORT:  one side to the small bump ss on the aft end of the top rail of the bow pulpit and the other around the edge of the door; STBRD: sling it under the furling line.  No muss, no fuss, no extra anything to install or maintain or clean.

48
Main Message Board / Re: Question on Engine Hours
« on: August 06, 2019, 11:58:00 AM »
I have 3,600 on a 1986 boat.  100-150 per year seems "average." 

49
Main Message Board / Re: Which Oberdorfer pump is this?
« on: August 03, 2019, 08:12:59 PM »
Guys : I used to take my old Oberdoffer face plates to a machine shop and a friend would "reface" them for $5!!

If you decide to go the "sandpaper" route as Stu suggested  1. Make sure you have an absolutely flat surface to put the plate on and flat block to wrap the paper around &  2. start with 400 grit wet/dry paper (WET) and finish it off with 1500 grit WET paper!!!

A thought

I grab whatever sandpaper I can reach in my toolbox, find the finest I can, and put it on a block of wood and rub away.  DRY. 

As long as, as Ken K said, there isn't a huge divot in the faceplate, it's been working for me for 21 years.

If there was a deep gouge, I'd buy a new faceplate.  That's harder to do here on Vancouver Island than it was in SF where I could go to the local Universal dealer on the way home between the boat and home.

BUT...I found one or two here, so if I need one I can get one.

As they say here on "The Island," "I can get it for you by Tuesday from Vancouver!"

50
Main Message Board / Re: Cruising Speed/RPMs with Universal 25XP
« on: August 03, 2019, 08:06:18 PM »
Thanks for the input. Obviously I'll be shopping for a 3 blade this winter. For the short term, any thoughts on running at 2800? I've pushed it on a few occasions, but haven't run that high for any significant time.

I ran at 2800 from SF to Maple Bay, British Columbia, in 2016, 1500 nm, 7.7 knots.  Don't "baby" the engine.  Still runnin'.  :D

I put a 3 inch HX on eons ago.

180F

51
Main Message Board / Re: Engine not turning over
« on: August 03, 2019, 08:02:57 PM »
Rod, congratulations and thanks for the report.  Feedback is always so welcomed.

I had to replace my ignition switch right before a cruise last year and wrote it up in the Tech Notes.

Link coming for those of you who are C34IA members:

http://c34.org/Ignition-Key-Switch-Replacement/


52
Main Message Board / Re: Cruising Speed/RPMs with Universal 25XP
« on: August 03, 2019, 11:08:05 AM »
M25 6.5 -7 knots with a 3 blade 15 x 10 pitch prop. in flat water with no/little wind at 2800rpm, clean bottom, 2500 rpm is 6+ knots.  WOT that I check regularly both in gear and out of gear is 3000.

My PO removed the two blade, so I don't know what that performance was nor do I recall the dia / pitch - it's somewhere at the bottom of my locker.

53
Main Message Board / Re: Which Oberdorfer pump is this?
« on: August 02, 2019, 04:29:54 PM »

Check the backside of the cover with a metal straight.edge.  The impeller wears an indent, which can affect suction/flow.  The heavy bronze covers CAN be resurfaced.


Good point, but they don't need to be "resurfaced," unless I misunderstood, just fine sandpaper the surface.  I've had the same pump faceplate for more than 15 years and two seal rebuilds.  They do last a long time.

54
Main Message Board / Re: Which Oberdorfer pump is this?
« on: August 02, 2019, 02:09:54 PM »
Most likely the ubiquitous 202M-15.  Paper gasket against the engine and at the faceplate.  There are newer models that replace the paper gaskets with O rings.

www.depcopump.com

55
Good work.  So that's what it looks like back there...:D

56
Great to hear the good news.  On an overall basis, this is also a great tutorial for others to follow when faced with "new" noises "down below."  Thanks for letting us know.

57
Main Message Board / Re: Alternator Belt Tensioner Home Made
« on: July 18, 2019, 08:37:01 AM »
James, I added a link to the Critical Upgrades tension post to this one.  Thanks.

58
Main Message Board / Re: Starting problem
« on: July 17, 2019, 04:54:36 PM »
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Checked that almost hidden inline fuse and cleaned it and the holder. Added a thin coat of dieelectric grease and  put it together. The first time I hit the starter button I got nothing. Did see volt meter drop. Hit the starter button another time or two and fired up. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Grease on the fuse ends?

59
Main Message Board / Re: Core Repair Under Cowl Vents
« on: July 15, 2019, 06:02:43 PM »
Mike, I, too, rebedded my cowl as the "obvious" first step.  Thought the leak was stopped because the water stopped dripping.  That first rebed was at the Roche Harbor Catalina Rendezvous in May 2017.  Les Troyer and John Shepard were great helpers.  In fact, they were so enthusiastic that I watched them gather the tools (long "blade" on John's power drill, Les working out the butyl tape I'd supplied), that they had the work done before I could ask them to stop and let me even try to help! :clap

The leak, which manifested itself by drips through one of the three screws holding the trim ring in (I removed the ring and saw a smaller version of your cracks), stopped for awhile, only to reappear (when it started raining again).  I tried that again; definition of insanity, right?

Then I did the traveler track.  Stopped, but then it rained, showed up later in the winter and early spring.

I saw Les again in early April this year, demanding my money back as part of the warranty!!!!!! :cry4` :cry4` :cry4`  We both laughed.

He and I traced it down to the fairleads for some of my aft led lines that run back to the cockpit (two small bullet fairleads, small screws, but could be).

The only other thing above that hole inside up on the deck is the hatch wood trim.

It's been dry here for months, no drips.  I can readily believe your results with the hose, but my experience was it took longer to reappear.

I was tempted to just slather Marine Tex inside and stop the drips, but, like you, I want to find the source and stop that.

That's where the link I posted could come in handy.

With my luck, I'll get around to doing that work only once it starts raining again!  Just like when I rebedded my saloon hatch!

Good luck, please keep us posted.

60
Main Message Board / Re: Deck/Hull joint torque
« on: July 14, 2019, 04:02:55 PM »
You really don't need anybody else to tell you anything.  Just tighten it up snug, short of the threshold of pain (for your joints!!!:D) and be done with it.  Really.  The ONLY torque I think is critical are the keel bolts.

Saves a long distance phone call.  Send Ken the $$ you woulda saved.   :D :thumb: :D

PS - added later  Jim, hope I didn't sound harsh.  You're right, I don't EVER recall hearing about this.  Fun to be first?!?  :shock: :clap 

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