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Messages - Stu Jackson

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 557
Main Message Board / Re: Antifreeze: Which type is best?
« on: Yesterday at 11:15:11 AM »

The google search link I posted to BA calls up the forums that have Rod's flushing procedure (and/or copy/pastes thereof) and one or two links to his pix (bucket sitting on the sole.)  I didn't find a vid of it, but I didn't take the time to search for every one of is posts to see if he linked to a vid.  >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

I don't know if you are aware - maybe you are -- our coolant petcock (stbd side) is a ball valve so, unlike a globe valve, there shouldn't be much to clog and a particle would be self cleared as far as when the valve is operated.  >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Thanks, Ken.

This one makes sense:

It's the second one down in your Google results.

And I also think you meant gate valve, not globe.

Main Message Board / Re: Antifreeze: Which type is best?
« on: January 17, 2020, 01:56:02 PM »

I thought I saw a video of a flushing procedure for the freshwater coolant side of the motor, where Rod had a circulation pump sitting in front of the motor. I poked around his YouTube channel which you linked, but I still can't find it. Maybe it was someone else's video.

Anyway, I'd love to hear what others do for flushing and rinsing of the freshwater side, as I haven't found much on this topic in my searches.

Yes, I thought I'd give it a try, but kinda knew it wasn't the freshwater side.  I don't recall MS doing a video on that, so could be someone else.  I do remember something like that, but could have been refilling the freshwater system after draining or replacing a water heater - his way to BURP.  I do recall it being one in front of the engine, too.  I don't recall seeing anything on the subject here either.

My methods over the years have consisted of:

1.  Breaking the old alternator mount, so when the alternator slammed down, it took out the freshwater hose and the oil filter.  Seems the oil filter "saved" the timing gear cover!  Anyway, I got to replace the coolant and the oil.  1999.  That's when I wrote my article about it, in the tech wiki.

2.  Replacing and/or removing the HX.  When I bought our boat I took the old 2" HX off and cleaned the salt off the inlet port, which had blocked 1/2 of it!  I did this every two years until I got my new 3" HX.  And then I had to replace that one when the support bracket broke and reamed a hole it it.  Many times replacing the coolant.

3.  Replacing the engine hoses.  Did them all maybe 7 years ago.

Lots of opportunities.  One thing, though, I never actually flushed the system, figuring that repeated refills of replacement of still good coolant would have done the job.

If I was doing it, I'd run the engine after draining the old coolant best I could, refilling with nothing but distilled water, drain and refill with coolant.  I've been using the environmentally friendly stuff, but haven't found it here yet, so will have to switch to "regular" next year or so.

I looked at photos of an M35B that are in this forum (search M35B flix) and didn't see anything apparent as to how to drain, since I do understand things are different on your engine than in my "Burping" photos.  But I'm sure you could find a place to disconnect a freshwater coolant hose and drain it via a funnel and hose into a bucket. 

Years ago someone suggested using one of the petcocks.  I disagreed.  I was in the building construction industry for 50 years, and learned that the small orifices on petcocks are notorious for getting clogged and then not closing properly.  I don't think it's worth the risk.

Main Message Board / Re: Antifreeze: Which type is best?
« on: January 16, 2020, 12:27:51 PM »
Is this it?  (from the 101 Topics)

Winterizing an Engine on the Hard (Thanks to Maine Sail) - NEVER connect a hose to your raw water pump inlet - NEVER!!!

Main Message Board / Re: C34MkII fuel tank maintenance
« on: December 23, 2019, 09:46:38 AM »
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I put it back in place so I wouldn't misplace the screws.

NOTHING on a boat is ever a easy as it seems.

True that.

Did you put the vent back in place or the whole "wall?"  I took my wall off many years ago, but put it back with only three or four of the twelve screws.  Put the screws in a plastic bag clearly labeled as "Fuel Tank Wall Screws."

Good luck, I hear the second time around is a charm!  :D

Catalina 34s for Sale / Re: How do I determine value ?
« on: December 12, 2019, 11:55:20 AM »

You look at comps. 

Look at Latitude 38, The Log, other boating publications, yachtworld and other online sites.

But remember, condition, condition, condition is the key factor in successful sales.

Good luck.

Main Message Board / Re: MK1 in anchor locker windlass install
« on: December 12, 2019, 11:01:45 AM »
...and the windlass drops the chain up against the aft wall of the chain locker.  Then the chain stacks up to high and we have to manually push the pile toward the center of the chain locker.  We are looking for a way to get the chain to drop in the center. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Have you considered getting something like a traffic cone tied into that aft wall to spread the chain?

Main Message Board / Re: Mast Refinish
« on: December 09, 2019, 04:13:04 PM »
My1981 Catalina 22 had tan non-skid.

My1981 Catalina 25 had tan non-skid.

My1986 Catalina 34 has tan non-skid.

I sailed all of them in Northern California, where it got HOT during the days in The California Delta, but cooled off at night.

After sailing my C34 from SF to British Columbia in 2016, I've learned it doesn't get that hot here (for too long if it does :D), and the cooler water temperatures compensate.

The tan hides the dirt which eventually happens, as does the grey.

Just look at white cars compared to the tan or grey ones.

Your boat, your choice.  :D

Main Message Board / Re: new Danfoss Controller not working?
« on: November 21, 2019, 08:01:12 PM »

Don't know if you've sen these from the 101 Topics thread:

Fridges 101 (Adler Barbour Repairs & Troubleshooting from Richard Kollmann),6956.0.html

Fridge Follies 101 - to prove that Richard is right and that 99% of fridge issues are electrical & includes electronic module resource,3044.0.html

Main Message Board / Re: Water Heater Question
« on: November 15, 2019, 09:10:12 PM »
That old bolt together ShurFlo was rated for WH use and was OEM on my ‘84.

Raritan specifically states re its RCV valve:
“Not for use on pressurized lines.”

I installed the Raritan check valve on my shower sump line.  Just like the post says.  That line is under suction.

The only point of my posting the pictures was to answer ba's question about the looks of the two different valves, and what my remaining heater valve is.

Main Message Board / Re: Water Heater Question
« on: November 15, 2019, 04:37:23 PM »
I don't think that age of the check valve is a negative here. Ken said that the older ones bolted together and were pressure rated. At some point Shurflo changed the design to a heat-welded one. Not sure when that change was made, but your 32 year old one might be better than the newer ones. Does yours bolt together, and allow disassembly to clean the flapper?

Here's the pictures, should answer your question, too.,4114.msg33528.html#msg33528

Main Message Board / Re: Water Heater Question
« on: November 14, 2019, 05:02:46 PM »
Golly, I know exactly what check valve we're talking about.

One option is that if, as ba says, things start goin' south and pressure really builds, when the check valve goes, it could go along with the "...hoses, barbs, valves, and pump..."  IIRC, most pumps have check valves on the outlet, too. 

By then, one could/would have bigger issues than an old check valve.  Which on my boat has been working for 32 years. 

Of course there are better valves, and incremental improvements and enhancements are always welcomed.  I'm  just suggesting we put this in proportion.

Your boat, your choice.  :D

Main Message Board / Re: Water Heater Question
« on: November 14, 2019, 11:00:31 AM »
I'm confused.  About the system pressure.  My domestic water pump is rated for X gpm at about, IIRC, anywhere from 40 to 55 psi.  The T&P safety release valve on the water heater appears to be there in case the heater itself has created over temp or over pressure.  But if the water system PUMP can only produce a max of say 55 psi, then what's the issue with the old check valve?  Sure, if the system clogs up and the pump keeps running, maybe, just maybe, that 55 psi could be exceed AT THE LOCATION of the check valve, but if that's ALL the pump can produce, where is that extra 100 psi coming from?

Main Message Board / Re: head sail
« on: November 14, 2019, 10:51:52 AM »

I forgot to mention that the IJPE measurements are included in the C34 owners manual, available in the tech wiki in case you don't have a hard copy.

I have long link plates on my furler, and the standard OEM 110 jib I have, not made by Catalina/Ullman but by Leading Edge, a very good San Francisco sail maker back in the 80s, gets the clew up off the deck for very good visibility.  The cut of the jib appears to be identical to the OEM C34 working jib, just that my PO bought his sails from a local vendor instead of getting the stock sails, because back then the stock sails sucked.  After a few years, in the early 90s, Catalina finally improved the quality of the stock sails by Ullman in Southern California.

OTOH, the skippers I raced with back in the late 90s & early 00s, all had 130 deck sweepers.  Our Fleet 1 PHRF ratings gave us a handicap for furlers, off the deck and smaller headsails (i.e., less than 130).  Because the racing skippers were true Corinthians, the handicaps as developed over the years were and remain a true model of fairness for all competitors.

Main Message Board / Re: Water Heater Question
« on: November 14, 2019, 09:23:26 AM »
I've had one of those "crappy" check valves in my water supply under the galley sink for 32 years on my boat, still works just fine.

I replaced the one under the head sink to the shower sump with an inline Raritan check valve.  The shower sump pump, IIRC, is in a different place on the Mark IIs. 

I posted pictures of the old and new years ago, I'll see if I can find it.

Main Message Board / Re: head sail
« on: November 14, 2019, 09:20:59 AM »
The measurements are based on the luff perpendicular.  You determine the height of the clew.

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