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Messages - Stu Jackson

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Main Message Board / Re: "Burping technique" Clarification
« on: October 11, 2019, 10:32:42 AM »
 First drain/flush/replace coolant from manifold radiator cap, THEN burp the air out.....
Dumb question, but this entire burping process is done with the engine RUNNING?, and the additional AF you add will circulate through the system and then come out the bottom of the thermostat, correct? Once there is uninterrupted flow from there, the air should be  evacuated and then you can re-attach the hose?

Engine off.  Fill the WH loop, close up hose.  Then start engine.  Yes, the entire purpose of this method is to eliminate all the air in the system.

Main Message Board / Re: New Furler Recommendations
« on: October 08, 2019, 09:35:17 AM »
Generally, what happens in these kind of threads is that skippers will share with you what worked for them, essentially: here's why I made my choice.

Mine, in 2003 or so, was a ProFurl LCI32.   Has been flawless since then.  Closed bearings, no maintenance.  No halyard restrainer needed, since it comes with the patented "Wrapstop" at the top of the top swivel; I call it the Darth Vader.

It's also the only furler I ever found where the instructions say you CAN use a winch to furl.

Your boat, your choice.  :D

Main Message Board / Re: Tools, Toolbag and where to keep
« on: October 07, 2019, 10:53:30 AM »
I use the nav station as my tool box:

Spares are in the cubbies behind the seat backs in the saloon.  Lighter electrical stuff is on the shelf in the V berth.

I do have a soft sided Craftsman tool bag for when visiting and also holds my electrical tools.

Main Message Board / Microwave Replacement
« on: October 03, 2019, 01:38:37 PM »
Found this today:

SUCCESS!!!!!! ISSUE SOLVED!!! I have a similar microwave problem with my Catalina 320. Just found a microwave from Walmart online, Proctor Silex PS-P70T20AL-V1B that is same size or smaller than the burnt out Samsung. 9.5 x 17.5 x 12. $33. Solves the 9.5 inch height issue. I have looked for a couple of years, hundreds of microwaves. I was about to take a saw to the cabinet and just happened to stumble across this.

Pictures in the link.

Main Message Board / Re: 160 thermostat vrs 180
« on: October 02, 2019, 10:50:43 AM »
I'm in fresh water and was wondering what the advantage of going to a 180 degree thermostat would be?  Has anyone done that and what happens in the real world?

Jim, I had two 160s years ago, one in my engine and another spare.  I paid it forward by giving it to a fellow C34 skipper, and then installed a 180.

That was in 2005 or 6.  I've been running the engine with that ever since, over 1,000 hours.

what happens in the real world?  Nada, zip, zilch, all is fine.

Main Message Board / Re: Universal M35B steam at 2500 rpm
« on: October 02, 2019, 08:14:44 AM »
What thermostat do you have?  There are two varieties: 160 and 180.  If you have a 180 you temp gauge could read 190.

That said, 190 is just fine, too.

Main Message Board / Re: Water heater by pass
« on: October 01, 2019, 07:35:10 AM »
Stu,  I have the original water heater, looks nothing like yours.

Jeff, absent anything in your original post about what heater you have, that's why I said "Seaward" in my picture post.
Good luck.

Main Message Board / Re: Water heater by pass
« on: September 30, 2019, 11:02:24 AM »
This is the front of the Seaward heater.

Main Message Board / Re: Muffler removal through aft cabin
« on: September 28, 2019, 05:36:49 PM »
Sloop : Back in 1999? I removed and replaced the muffler thru the aft cabin "floor" cutout.  Wrote a Mainsheet tech note article on the "How To".  I didn't have any problems on removal nor on installation.  >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Ron, WADR, your Nov. 2001 article says you removed the head sink door to replace the muffler.

I had a completely different experience of removing the old one.  My conclusion is that while helpful, Ron's experience was simply DIFFERENT than mine.  This quote from my 2015 Tech Note actually mentioned the real date of Ron's helpful article, but what worked for him may NOT work for you. 

There is an easier way, as my first excerpt stated.

I understand his concern about dropping dirty water, but the physical REALITIES of trying to get the danged BIG BOX muffler out of the aft cabin HOLE is simply not worth it because of the POTENTIAL HEIGHT of the tubes. 

If it's hard to get out of the hole, it may well be completely impossible.

Your boat, your choice.  :D

Muffler & Exhaust Riser Replacement - 2015

There have been quite a few Mainsheet articles and C34 Tech wiki posts about the work involved in these tasks.  Ron Hill’s classic November 2001 Tech Notes detailed his muffler replacement.  My own February 2004 Tech Notes discussed our first riser replacement at 1,390 engine hours.  This article discusses the lessons learned and Tips & Tricks of the work that my son, Morgan, and I did in September 2015 at 2,938 engine hours, 1,548 hours after our last new riser.

Muffler:  The inlet and exhaust ports of our OEM muffler had been deteriorating for many years and had begun to seriously leak.  Of course, we had installed the hump hose when we did our first exhaust riser replacement in 2003.  I had reported on the Forum that I had attempted to rebuild the inlet port with Marine Tex, and that Morgan and I had replaced our 17-foot long exhaust hose in February 2012.  The exhaust port was not so bad.  We were able to obtain a replacement muffler for just the cost of shipping ($40) thanks to Rob Hathaway, a generous fellow sailor from Connecticut who was repowering his Catalina 30, and had made his old muffler available to us.  A new muffler from Catalina Direct is $375.

Old Muffler Removal Tips & Tricks:  After removing everything from the aft cabin, I spent a day removing the heat exchanger and taking out the four screws holding the old muffler down.  We took an old cushion and laid it over the prop shaft.  Many years ago I bought a small ratcheting screwdriver to use on the hard-to-access screws on our old head.  This tool was invaluable.  It is one with a small opening that takes different screw bits and holds them at a right angle to the short handle.  I bought it at Ace Hardware.  Trying to get a regular screwdriver on these muffler screws is almost impossible and it worked great for removing and replacing those four screws.

Please read my entire article in the 2015 Tech Notes.

If you don't have access, please join the C34IA.  Please.

Main Message Board / Re: Muffler removal through aft cabin
« on: September 27, 2019, 12:35:51 PM »
SD,  from my 2015 Tech Note on "Exhaust Riser Replacement:"

Many of the removal articles suggest removing the muffler from the aft cabin hole.  So I did.  It was a BEAST to do.  When the old muffler is moved off its plywood pad and pulled amidships to the area behind the engine, the muffler ports stick up and barely clear the fiberglass lip of the cockpit sole down below.  The wiring harness wires are even lower and are very difficult to reach to lift up to clear the ports.  After the muffler comes past those obstructions, it is necessary to turn (yank!) it 90 degrees clockwise to get it to come far enough aft to get to the “hole” because of the way the hull is shaped compared to the underside of the aft cabin fiberglass.  I strongly urge you to never even bother.  If your ports are too long, you will never get it out that way and will waste a lot of time & energy.  We learned just how easy it is to replace the new muffler through the head door, which we never bothered to remove.  Take the old muffler out through the head door!!!  When installing the new muffler have the ports face midships, tilt it in and down and then flat and back over the plywood base.  It’s that easy.

Photos are in the Tech Notes Online

Moving the head sink hoses is easy.

Main Message Board / Re: Finding the waterline
« on: September 26, 2019, 11:59:12 AM »

There's always this from the 101 topics:

Exhaust Hose Replacement 101 with Pictures:,6760.0.html

Main Message Board / Re: Finding the waterline
« on: September 25, 2019, 08:51:47 AM »
The exhaust hose on the Mark I boats is 17 feet.

17' from where it comes out of the muffler or whatever it is under the sink in the head? Also is it 1-5/8" id?


The white box under the head sink is the muffler.

Yes, 17 feet from there to the transom thru hull.

Yes, 1 5/8" I. D.

Here's my record:

Exhaust Hose   24-Feb-12   Outboard Motor Shop      $210.11    1 5/8" 17 feet plus clamps and joint

Main Message Board / Re: MaineSail or other SmartGauge SG100 guru question
« on: September 24, 2019, 10:29:22 AM »
While one could make the point that they are identical because IT'S JUST THE DIFF3ERENT END OF THE SAME WIRE, IIRC the SG instructions mandate connection be to a battery terminal, not remote in any way.

When in doubt, RTFM!   :clap

Main Message Board / Re: Running Cables for Windlass
« on: September 19, 2019, 07:19:41 AM »
I got the VW 10 not sure if the 10-10 or the 10-8 but I will check.
anyway I installed it horizontally in the anchor locker with the gears and motor in the area between the exterior of the locker and the veneer...plenty of room there. I have pics is anyone wishes.

This is on my short list of much needed projects. I'd love to see pictures. Please email to

PLEASE post pictures here.

Main Message Board / Re: GPSmap 172c --- GPS Replacement Options
« on: September 17, 2019, 08:13:02 PM »
There have been, and will continue to be, detailed discussions about this topic.  Kinda like asking your mom what girl to marry before you've had a first date, or "What boat should I buy?"  :D

Here's another good recent one:

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