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Messages - Stu Jackson

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 557
31
Main Message Board / Re: Water heater by pass
« on: September 30, 2019, 11:02:24 AM »
This is the front of the Seaward heater.

32
Main Message Board / Re: Muffler removal through aft cabin
« on: September 28, 2019, 05:36:49 PM »
Sloop : Back in 1999? I removed and replaced the muffler thru the aft cabin "floor" cutout.  Wrote a Mainsheet tech note article on the "How To".  I didn't have any problems on removal nor on installation.  >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Ron, WADR, your Nov. 2001 article says you removed the head sink door to replace the muffler.

I had a completely different experience of removing the old one.  My conclusion is that while helpful, Ron's experience was simply DIFFERENT than mine.  This quote from my 2015 Tech Note actually mentioned the real date of Ron's helpful article, but what worked for him may NOT work for you. 

There is an easier way, as my first excerpt stated.

I understand his concern about dropping dirty water, but the physical REALITIES of trying to get the danged BIG BOX muffler out of the aft cabin HOLE is simply not worth it because of the POTENTIAL HEIGHT of the tubes. 

If it's hard to get out of the hole, it may well be completely impossible.

Your boat, your choice.  :D

Muffler & Exhaust Riser Replacement - 2015

There have been quite a few Mainsheet articles and C34 Tech wiki posts about the work involved in these tasks.  Ron Hillís classic November 2001 Tech Notes detailed his muffler replacement.  My own February 2004 Tech Notes discussed our first riser replacement at 1,390 engine hours.  This article discusses the lessons learned and Tips & Tricks of the work that my son, Morgan, and I did in September 2015 at 2,938 engine hours, 1,548 hours after our last new riser.

Muffler:  The inlet and exhaust ports of our OEM muffler had been deteriorating for many years and had begun to seriously leak.  Of course, we had installed the hump hose when we did our first exhaust riser replacement in 2003.  I had reported on the Forum that I had attempted to rebuild the inlet port with Marine Tex, and that Morgan and I had replaced our 17-foot long exhaust hose in February 2012.  The exhaust port was not so bad.  We were able to obtain a replacement muffler for just the cost of shipping ($40) thanks to Rob Hathaway, a generous fellow sailor from Connecticut who was repowering his Catalina 30, and had made his old muffler available to us.  A new muffler from Catalina Direct is $375.

Old Muffler Removal Tips & Tricks:  After removing everything from the aft cabin, I spent a day removing the heat exchanger and taking out the four screws holding the old muffler down.  We took an old cushion and laid it over the prop shaft.  Many years ago I bought a small ratcheting screwdriver to use on the hard-to-access screws on our old head.  This tool was invaluable.  It is one with a small opening that takes different screw bits and holds them at a right angle to the short handle.  I bought it at Ace Hardware.  Trying to get a regular screwdriver on these muffler screws is almost impossible and it worked great for removing and replacing those four screws.
[/b][/b]


Please read my entire article in the 2015 Tech Notes.

If you don't have access, please join the C34IA.  Please.

33
Main Message Board / Re: Muffler removal through aft cabin
« on: September 27, 2019, 12:35:51 PM »
SD,  from my 2015 Tech Note on "Exhaust Riser Replacement:"

Many of the removal articles suggest removing the muffler from the aft cabin hole.  So I did.  It was a BEAST to do.  When the old muffler is moved off its plywood pad and pulled amidships to the area behind the engine, the muffler ports stick up and barely clear the fiberglass lip of the cockpit sole down below.  The wiring harness wires are even lower and are very difficult to reach to lift up to clear the ports.  After the muffler comes past those obstructions, it is necessary to turn (yank!) it 90 degrees clockwise to get it to come far enough aft to get to the ďholeĒ because of the way the hull is shaped compared to the underside of the aft cabin fiberglass.  I strongly urge you to never even bother.  If your ports are too long, you will never get it out that way and will waste a lot of time & energy.  We learned just how easy it is to replace the new muffler through the head door, which we never bothered to remove.  Take the old muffler out through the head door!!!  When installing the new muffler have the ports face midships, tilt it in and down and then flat and back over the plywood base.  Itís that easy.



Photos are in the Tech Notes Online

Moving the head sink hoses is easy.

34
Main Message Board / Re: Finding the waterline
« on: September 26, 2019, 11:59:12 AM »
Jim,

There's always this from the 101 topics:

Exhaust Hose Replacement 101 with Pictures:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6760.0.html

35
Main Message Board / Re: Finding the waterline
« on: September 25, 2019, 08:51:47 AM »
The exhaust hose on the Mark I boats is 17 feet.

17' from where it comes out of the muffler or whatever it is under the sink in the head? Also is it 1-5/8" id?

TIA

The white box under the head sink is the muffler.

Yes, 17 feet from there to the transom thru hull.

Yes, 1 5/8" I. D.

Here's my record:

Exhaust Hose   24-Feb-12   Outboard Motor Shop      $210.11    1 5/8" 17 feet plus clamps and joint

36
Main Message Board / Re: MaineSail or other SmartGauge SG100 guru question
« on: September 24, 2019, 10:29:22 AM »
While one could make the point that they are identical because IT'S JUST THE DIFF3ERENT END OF THE SAME WIRE, IIRC the SG instructions mandate connection be to a battery terminal, not remote in any way.

When in doubt, RTFM!   :clap

37
Main Message Board / Re: Running Cables for Windlass
« on: September 19, 2019, 07:19:41 AM »
I got the VW 10 not sure if the 10-10 or the 10-8 but I will check.
anyway I installed it horizontally in the anchor locker with the gears and motor in the area between the exterior of the locker and the veneer...plenty of room there. I have pics is anyone wishes.

This is on my short list of much needed projects. I'd love to see pictures. Please email to jhnewsome17@bellsouth.net

PLEASE post pictures here.

38
Main Message Board / Re: GPSmap 172c --- GPS Replacement Options
« on: September 17, 2019, 08:13:02 PM »
There have been, and will continue to be, detailed discussions about this topic.  Kinda like asking your mom what girl to marry before you've had a first date, or "What boat should I buy?"  :D

Here's another good recent one:

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f13/new-iphones-and-the-imminent-death-of-the-mfd-223683.html

39
Main Message Board / Re: Balmar ARS-5 Voltage Regulator Power Source
« on: September 17, 2019, 04:42:32 PM »
That's clear now.

FWIW, when I replaced my key switch a couple of years ago, I found a 3 position switch there, although my boat only used two because I have both pushbuttons for glow plugs and start.  The factory only wired two poles anyway!  I just put a two position I/O in instead.

40
Main Message Board / Re: Winch size for spinnaker halyard
« on: September 17, 2019, 03:43:49 PM »
Have you considered using a vang tackle connected to your main halyard for hoisting the dinghy?

My preference is to always try to find dual uses for existing stuff before adding anything.

Wouldn't you need a clutch or cam cleat to hold the tailed halyard right there at the mast?

Good luck.

41
Main Message Board / Re: Balmar ARS-5 Voltage Regulator Power Source
« on: September 17, 2019, 03:39:53 PM »
Mike : Like Stu said the KEY switch.  Just make sure you wire it to the continuous pole and not the intermittent pole!!

A thought

Mike,

WAIT!

Just to be clear, the regulator doesn't need to be ON all the time.  You WANT it to go off when you turn the key off.

So, use the correct pole on the key switch.  Sometimes terminology can be confusing...:D

42
Main Message Board / Re: Balmar ARS-5 Voltage Regulator Power Source
« on: September 17, 2019, 11:18:36 AM »
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
1.
This indicated that the regulator is not receiving power. The regulator harness brown wire for power is connected to the engine oil pressure switch circuit. Iím not sure how this circuit is supposed to work.


2.
I know that it is supposed to turn on the warning light at the panel in the cockpit when oil pressure is low, such as momentarily when starting the engine. The light does blink on when starting the engine. I donít seem to be able to get a voltage reading for that circuit when the engine is running. It should read the battery voltage. Any ideas would be appreciated.
Mike....

Mike,

1.
The regulator power should be coming from the ignition switch, not the oil pressure switch circuit, because that circuit only gets energized after the engine starts.

When I replaced my OEM alternator I installed an MC-612, and drew detailed wiring diagrams.  These are in the Electrical Systems 101.

Alternator Regulator Wiring Diagrams - all three http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4548.0.html

Also, the Critical Upgrades topic discusses the unforeseen consequences of the M25XP and M35 engine wiring changes related to the oil pressure switch and the the operation of the electric fuel pump.  I only mention this so if you don't already know about it, you can find out.

2.
Perhaps your oil pressure switch is faulty.  In most cases, IIRC, it's not the switch but the wiring connections.  Ken Kloeber has written a lot about this.  Since I don't have experience with it because I have a simpler M25, I'll leave this one to others.

43
Main Message Board / Re: oil hose kit?
« on: September 16, 2019, 02:19:11 PM »
MDID : If you look in the Mainsheet tech notes you'll find an article that I wrote on this very subject.  >>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>


Ron, it wasn't a tech note, it was in Projects:

http://www.c34.org/projects/projects-replaceing-oil-change-hose.html

I found it using the Knowledgebase.

44
Main Message Board / Re: Tech notes
« on: September 14, 2019, 08:01:37 AM »
Try clicking on the individual articles, instead of the month.  This could be the period where we were transitioning to original files from pdf black & white copies.

45
Main Message Board / Re: Reefing system
« on: September 12, 2019, 03:14:47 PM »
Hi Stu your double line is a good idea but what are you doing with the reefing two and maybe three

See the November 2003 Tech Notes.  Entire article with pictures.  First and second reefs.  I've written before that I don't believe a third reef is necessary.  If you do, save some $$ and just put in a deeper second.  Your boat, your choice.  :D

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