Menu

Show posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Show posts Menu

Messages - Stu Jackson

#1
Quote from: KeelsonGraham on Yesterday at 03:47:08 PM>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

The batteries wouldn't be a problem, but the inverter is a big beast.

KG, in 1998 I installed a big, heavy Heart Interface Freedom 15 I/C.  I, too, was struggling with location.  At the very same time, Capt. Al Watson in Connecticut was doing the same with his Freedom 10.  I was in California and we "met" each other on this C34 website before the forum began in 2001, so we did it by email.  We agreed that the most opportunistic location was under the nav station desk.  Both of us chose to mount it on the sloping side of fiberglass on the outboard side.  On our Mark I boats that is NOT the hull, but a completely separate wall of fiberglass before the hull with a large air gap between.  Since then I have read about some skippers using the wall between the hanging locker and under the desk, too.  We chose that location because it was close enough to the battery box to run the heavy cables from the I/C through the macerator compartment, under the cabin sole, to the battery box.  Here's Al's writeup from the old Projects page in the pre-forum static website: https://www.c34.org/projects/kindred-spirit/inverter.html

The very best primer for lithium systems is Maine Sail's on his marinehowto website.  https://marinehowto.com/drop-in-lifepo4-be-an-educated-consumer/

Cruisersforum.com also has a good lithium section, trust contributor "jedi" above all others, he knows his stuff.  https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f166/
#2
Main Message Board / Re: Exhaust leak
Yesterday at 12:00:28 PM
Quote from: junaido on Yesterday at 11:36:29 AMI undid the hose clamp on the sink hose, but despite all tugging and yanking the hose did not come off the faucet barb (is that what you are calling the "white blob thingy"?). Maybe I suck at getting hoses off, but this dissuaded me from exploring that route any further. I think I mentioned the large glass-bowl fuel filter that is also mounted under the sink. I suspect it will block the muffler coming out that route as well even if I manage to get the sink hoses off. There are very few one-size-fits-all solutions in these boats.

Tugging and yanking on a hose on a barb will NEVER do anything.  That's why the barb is there:   in case the clamp fails the hose stays there.

In addition to Noah's ideas, what I do is simply slice a bit of the hose and it will come right off.  Unless you have absolutely NO extra hose, cutting 1/2" to 1" off a hose is not a big deal.

I also suggest asking before, unless you were at the boat for the "Dachshund removal day."  :D
#3
Main Message Board / Re: Exhaust leak
Yesterday at 10:55:59 AM
Quote from: junaido on Yesterday at 09:48:27 AMStu,
I did try the sink route but couldn't even get the sink hoses off. After spending considerable time trying to do laparoscopic surgery through the head sink door,  this was the path of least resistance for me. I guess I will reevaluate the options when the time comes to put the muffler back.

That's helpful info, and the kind that you may have asked first to avoid your Dauschund fun & games.  I understand, but then again I don't.  In post #40 I posted a photo of under the head sink (photo courtesy of Ron).  What part of the sink hose could you not get off?  All I had to do was remove the two hose clamps below the white blob thingies, nothing more was needed for access to the muffler (in my case for replacement but what I recommended for removal, too).  Am I missing something?
#4
Main Message Board / Re: Exhaust leak
Yesterday at 08:28:56 AM
Quote from: junaido on February 24, 2024, 11:13:35 AMMuffler is finally out. It felt like midwifing a Great Dane puppy out of a Dachshund, but it did come out the aft berth after executing a 90 degree clockwise turn. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>


Junaid,

Of course it was a PITA doing it that way.  Posts #1 and 65-70 discussed this.  I'm happy that you got it out, but am amazed that you bothered to do it the hard way after all the input you received.  How are you planning to put it back?

Rant:  Many of us have spent many years with our boats and have built up a reasonable level of experience.  Some of us have actually documented that experience by writing detailed photographic essays of the work they have accomplished.  In addition, many of us follow this forum and are willing to reiterate that experience and help others to the source of that documentation.  In this case, I provided you with my writeup in the very first post in your thread here, and we discussed it further in posts #65-70, and I even went the further mile and copied the removal part of my tech note for you. I also provided lots of information with sketches, Catalina Yacht documents and photographs in this very thread.  We are trying to have you avoid reinventing the bloody wheel, which is what this website is all about.  I'm not your mother and I'm not mad at you for not taking my advice, but it sure galls me when we've made some serious experienced recommendations that appear to have gone completely by you, because you say "It felt like midwifing a Great Dane puppy out of a Dachshund...", which is a really great line BTW! :D   I tried to help you avoid this entirely.  I'm sorry you didn't bother.  I'll suggest to you to re-read my recommendations, because when you put it back through the head door you'll wonder why you did it the hard way to get it out.  [Rant over]

I'm the guy who came up with the phrase "Your boat, your choice" but in this case, you just chose the harder option.  Good luck with the rest of the work.

IIRC, Ken Kloeber offered great information on fixing your muffler in post #49, as did Noah just above.
#5
Main Message Board / Re: Input on New Sails
Yesterday at 07:55:15 AM
Rick,

The "compleat" answer to your question is:

Lowest cost usually comes from mail order sails, often good deals for standardized sized sails for known and popular boats, more issues for you if something is not right.

Higher cost and assured fit come from more local sail lofts who will come to your boat to measure and install and later adjust your new sail.

You can't have both.

[Edit]  In every single one of these "What sail should I buy?" on the internet, a majority of the answers will be folks letting you know what they bought.  What is almost always missing is the route in which they made their choice, first up these ^^ two issues, then the ones below.  It's the nature of internet communications, and perhaps people don't like to write (or blather as much as I do :D), where you get WHAT they bought, not the hows and whys.  I also rarely read anybody saying they were unhappy with their decision, it's rare but sometimes folks will make an admission, usually not for a product, though, but for service.

***********************

I don't recall anybody reporting a serious negative sail maker review on this board (the website's been here since 1998, the forum since 2001).

Two quotes is a very limited pool from which to choose.  Sail Warehouse has "stock" Catalina 34 sails, don't know if Catalina Yachts still does.  Roly Trasker has been mentioned here a lot.  I'm sure a search here on the phrase "+new+sails" would provide you with lots of reading material and more choices, and a Google search would list all sail makers in existence.

Details, details, details...it's all in the details, is so very true.  Reinforcing locations, materials and strength...number of reefs...headboard, tack & clew details...leech adjustment line (often forgotten or neglected)...luff slug selection and materials...etc.  Good sail makers have check lists for all this stuff.

Good luck in your searching, your boat, your choice. :D
#6
Quote from: Noah on February 18, 2024, 08:14:15 AM>>>>>>>>>>>
So possibly, Stu (?) may not have hooked his tach to that special terminal.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Just to clarify, I've not had this problem (I have an MC-612 properly wired).  I was only answering someone else's question about why their tachs could be not operating with full batteries, which have been a recurring question on the internet for decades.  I agree with Jeremy's answer to you, although I think "...when the batteries appear charged to such a low level..." he actually meant high level.

Gulfsailor, glad to hear you figured your issue out, thx for letting us know.
#7
External regulators usually start up in the bulk mode.  That means the target voltage is always higher than the battery voltage, therefore the alternator is being directed by the regulator to output current.  Hence, the tach will work.
#8
Quote from: tvorgitch on February 15, 2024, 05:27:14 PMWhat would cause the tach to not function if the batteries are fully charged?

Please read reply #9 on page 1 of this thread.
#9
Quote from: Noah on February 13, 2024, 11:18:00 AMSTU— I assume that your statement "there is no tach signal with full batteries" does not apply if you are running an external regulator.  Or, some other wiring is set-up differently on my boat, as I have never had this issue. I run my engine with 100% SOC on batteries "all the time" and always have a tach reading.

Doesn't make a difference of external vs. internal regulators. Battery sensing: Internal sensed via AO to bank; external via sense wire from external regulator (although IIRC the Balmar ARS5 doesn't have one, but my MC612 does).

EDIT:  Internal regulators do nothing with their battery sensing, it's only the other end of the AO.  Only external regulators with properly wired battery sensing use that battery voltage to adjust output voltages based on the programmed setting.  In all cases output current is determined by the bank itself.

Also just occurred to me:  do you use your glow plugs before you start your engine?
#10
Alternators "report" a signal to a tachometer based on the changing frequency of the alternator's alternating current (which is later rectified into DC power output, the AO).

If the regulator is signalling that there is no need for alternator output (AO) then there will be no signal and the tach will not read.

Often what happens is that even though you arrive at your boat with it being plugged in and charging, thinking you have full batteries, you turn stuff on after you arrive.  When you disconnect the shorepower charger, the battery voltage drops to below the charge voltage and the regulator setpoint, so the regulator tells the alternator to output.

We often see questions in boating forums "My tach isn't working when I first start my engine, what should I do?"  Answer?  Is your charger still connected? If so, its voltage could be keeping the batteries above the regulator setpoint.  [If the charger is in float at 13.4V and the regulator setpoint is 14V, the tach will work.  The internal regulator is using the AO as a battery sense wire.  External regulators have separate battery sense wires.]  Turn on a load so the regulator sees that the bank needs a charge.  The regulator reads the battery voltage because it is connected to the battery via the AO wire.

There will be no damage to anything if you are connected to shorepower when you start your engine.  The tach reads the alternator output and is not connected to the starting circuit.

One of the poles of the key switch is connected to the regulator and it turns the regulator on and off via the wiring harness in addition to powering the start button (or key switch start function).  You can turn the key switch off with the engine running.  It will stop the tach signal, stop the AO because it turns off the regulator without interrupting the AO, and will harm nothing.  Never turn the 1-2-B switch off with the engine running UNLESS you've redone your electrical system and have the AO going directly to the house bank bypassing the switch.  If your AO goes to the house bank, you can turn your 1-2-B switch off with the engine running with no damage because the AO is not being interrupted.  Damage to the alternator occurs when interrupting the AO, and NOT the power to the regulator.

It's helpful to understand how all the bits and pieces work individually and connected together as a system.
#11
Main Message Board / Re: Exhaust leak
February 12, 2024, 03:12:26 PM
Quote from: Ron Hill on February 12, 2024, 02:32:09 PMjuna : You have to decide which way the muffler comes out, because the MKII M35BC muffler has the ports on it's side not the top like the MK I !!

A thought

Ron, he has hull #105, a Mark I boat.  Alex has the M35 and provided his assistance.
#12
Quote from: Gulfsailor on February 11, 2024, 06:13:19 PM
Quote from: Stu Jackson on February 11, 2024, 05:23:25 PMIf your house bank is full the regulator will not require output. 

Do you have an internal or external regulator?

Not sure if it's internal or integrated.

Look for a separate box with a bundled wire harness usually in black about 3/4" in diameter off the back of the alternator and the external regulator is often under the head sink or in the aft cabin although sometimes incorrectly in the engine compartment.  The regulator looks like this: https://balmar.net/product/mc-618-h/

If you don't have one then it's internal and on the back of the alternator.

My question about full batteries still applies.  If your batteries are full, regulators signal to the alternator that no more power is required and turn the signal to the tach off.

I recommend as the next step to turn your battery charger off and turn your fridge on for say a half hour.  This will assure some load and draw down the battery bank.  Then test again and let us know what you find out.
#13
If your house bank is full the regulator will not require output. 

Do you have an internal or external regulator?
#14
Main Message Board / Re: Exhaust leak
February 11, 2024, 05:20:20 PM
Quote from: junaido on February 11, 2024, 02:04:44 PMI think Ron also got it out through the aft cabin ?
Junaid

Yes, he did.  But,, please pretty please read my tech note.  I quoted Ron's article and showed with pictures the difficulty I had doing it that way.

I wrote:

Many of the removal articles suggest removing the muffler from the aft cabin hole. So I did. It was a BEAST to do. When the old muffler is moved off its plywood pad and pulled amidships to the area behind the engine, the muffler ports stick up and barely clear the fiberglass lip of the cockpit sole down below. The wiring harness wires are even lower and are very difficult to reach to lift up to clear the ports. After the muffler comes past those obstructions, it is necessary to turn (yank!) it 90 degrees clockwise to get it to come far enough aft to get to the "hole" because of the way the hull is shaped compared to the underside of the aft cabin fiberglass. I strongly urge you to never even bother. If your ports are too long, you will never get it out that way and will waste a lot of time & energy. We learned just how easy it is to replace the new muffler through the head door, which we never bothered to remove. Take the old muffler out through the head door!!! When installing the new muffler have the ports face midships, tilt it in and down and then flat and back over the plywood base. It's that easy.
#15
Main Message Board / Re: Exhaust leak
February 11, 2024, 01:51:14 PM
I didn't even have to take the door off.  Please read my tech note.