Messages

Thanks everyone for the recommendations.  Fortunately, this turned out to be a user error.  The good folks at West Marine have seen this problem frequently on the Uniden radios - there is a MemUIC button which makes it very easy to toggle between USA Canada and International VHF frequencies.  In my case, it was running on  International VHF band whatever those are which created the disconnect regarding frequencies.  Now if all my boating problems could be so easy to fix.   Thanks again,   Kurt

Hello everyone,

My uniden fixed mount vhf radio appears to not be able to recieve communication on channels 17 through 66 - did not check if transmitting worked on these channels which I will do another day as the thought just hit me.  Channels 67 and above and 16 and below do recieve and transmit based upon previous working history - did check antenna connection at the radio and all looked fine.  Did a quick glance at the manual and didn't see any european configuration settings or things like that being user accessable.

I didn't discover this issue until a race when committee was using 66 2 weeks ago - I suspect the issue has been in place since first install 2.5 years ago.

I suppose antenna, antenna cable, and radio are the only possible suspects here.  I plan to swap out the antenna as that is the least expensive choice of fixes and go from there. 

Any one have any other thoughts re diagnosis or fix?

Thanks,

Kurt
'88 C34 796

My Mk1 boom snapped into two pieces at the 3rd bail this past weekend and will be doing the upgrade to the Mk II boom which will have two bales.

When referring to two blocks in this thread do I need to get two blocks for each bale connection or 1 double block per bale?

Also, the Mk II boom will have internal reefing that has the lines coming out of the top of the boom at the gooseneck side to run to the reef cringle and back aft for single line reefing.  Personally, I like my current MkI reefing setup which uses two lines and keeps the lines out of the cockpit.  I suppose I can take reef 1 aft to the cockpit and possibly leave reef 2 up front and tie off on the cleat on the mast that the Mk1's use for the reefing cringle line.  However is the winch helpfull when using a single line reefing when led aft or not necessary? 

Thanks

Kurt

Thanks Stu.  Good to know.   Your 1/2 gallon per our is a good conservative metric I will use.  FYI, my logs have me at about ~.3 GPH w my cruise at ~2100 rpm.  Kurt

Hello,

About 1 of every 2 fill ups I get foaming diesel which forces me to very gradually fill the tank.  I've checked the fuel tank vent - no problem.   Also, I do add a bit of FPPF Total Power prior to every fill.   Is there any way to mitigate this or just live with it?

Thanks,

Kurt
'88 #796 M25XP

I recently went from a 15x9 fixed 3 blade to a 15x10 3 blade folder from flexofold on my '88 25xp.  Net-net when motoring, I can't tell it is a folder which was the reason I selected 3 blades - maybe a bit less prop walk in reverse but small amount that one forgets quickly.  While when sailing, performance has become very noticeable especially in the light stuff < 12 knots which is unforgettable.  Finally, the hub of the prop is quite sizeable when in hand vs. photos on the web.  Wouldn't surprise me that it is a bit heavier than the fixed orop...

Kurt 

Hello,

I'm evaluating adding a symmetrical spinnaker to my '88 C34.  On that note, what size winches are recommended for the secondary's in the cockpit for Spinnaker Sheets?

Thanks,

Kurt

Ok - just got the "custom made" shorter cars from Garhauer which installed great in the recessed tracks.  I had to hacksaw a bit of the extra track it came with to be able to set the car in the recess mount it but that wasn't a big deal.  I ended up using about 35 feet of rope on each side although I rigged the car for full front to about 70% of full back travel. 

Kurt

Thanks Stu - good idea:-) 

On that note:

According to Ted -- "There's not enough space and you'll have to remove the last three bolts and raise the back of the track. " Which I may do.

I also called Garhauer this morning and Mark would like the cars back and he will shorten them to 5 & 1/2".  He claims that going to two-piece cars are not his recommended approach any longer.  I will need to measure if this will give me sufficient clearance and then pick one of these possible solutions.

Kurt
 

Hello everyone,

Just purchased the EZ Glide system.  My '88 has the standard, recessed track set up.   How does one actually mount the car on the track?  I have tried to do so and have failed several times but have gotten good at repacking the bearings.   Specifically, I am unable to fit the larger car with the fairlead/bearings onto the track.  I am forced to tilt it a bit as it extends from the track but past the recessed point and that angle prevents the mount.    Must I remove the track, slide the car on, and then reseal/bolt down to make this work?   

Thanks for any advice/comments here.

Kurt

Dave,

I have to admit to be scratching my head on this one but I got 2800 with 7 knots of wind on the beam in flat water heading back into the marina.  The same rpm as with the mainsail flogging motoring directly into 19 knots of wind with small chop.  (I did see 3000 one morning with no wind in flat water.) This similarity of rpm has me leaning towards declaring success and moving on to the next boat project!

Kurt

Steve,
Yes - did pick up ~ 1/4 to 1/2 knot.  I cruise at around 2200 - 2400 btw now at ~ 6 knots.  Of course, in my harried planning forgot to document the old prop velocity by rpm so this is bump in velocity is approximate and based upon a rapidly fading recollection.
Kurt

Hello All,

Based upon vendor recommendation, I went with a 10" pitch for the 3 blade flexofold 15" diameter for my '88 25xp.  (I did secure their agreement to go down to 9" pitch at nominal cost if I desired to do so.)  Also learned during installation procedure that I previously had a fixed, 3 blade 15x10" Michigan Sailer prop.  I have not calibrated by tach which makes the following data suspect but I have the original alternator and the numbers seem to be in the right ball park. 

So, my previous prop at load got up to a max rpm of ~3000. 

The folder that I just added now gets up to ~2800 rpm.  Further tested it last evening evening with mainsail up, motoring directly into a 19 knot breeze with small chop, slack tide and got 2800 rpm.  May be getting a small amount of grey smoke at this rpm but not sure.  Finger across stern did not find any soot when back on the dock but only ran for a couple of minutes at max rpm.   

Any thoughts regarding these results?  I'd like to see 2900 or 3000 but am leaning to staying as is with the 10" pitch and avoiding the hastle of replacing blades.  9.5" pitch would probably be perfect!

Thanks in advance,

Kurt

I am not sure about your 1990.  This service kit did the trick for my '88.

Gusher Titan Service Kit

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|51|299222|84462|316440|315120&id=161316

Kurt

I had a similar problem on my '88 this year regarding the leaking hump hose. 

In my case, I came up with the clever idea to replace the standard hose clamps with some of those solid steel band style hose clamps thinking more torque was the solution to this leak.   It was but indirectly -- I ended up torquing the clamps so hard around the hump hose that I  crushed the tube that went into the muffler.  Maybe as a result of the crushing, I was able to pull/rotate the tube cleanly, as one piece, out of the muffler.  This fiberglass tube was glued or fiberglassed into the box as a part of the standard muffler manufacturing process.  This made the repair easy and I had the shipyard epoxy/balloon a standard pipe type fitting with pipe thread (down) barb side (up) very cleanly back into the hole.  Althought I wouldn't recommend this as the "plan a" over the rebuilds noted, it may be a decent interim step to try prior to ordering a new muffler.  I'm up to over 50 hours since the repair with zero signs of cracking at the fitting/muffler joint.

Kurt