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Messages - kurt

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Main Message Board / Re: Change Oil Filter without Draining Oil?
« on: September 01, 2020, 02:21:41 PM »
Thanks all.

I can confirm all the supportive comments regarding changing oil filter while leaving the oil in the engine.

The good news is I replaced the WIX with a Fram 3593A and the leaking has stopped.

The news I was a bit concerned about was that I had to use the wrench after initial seating of the filter to get it on the mount.  Before committing to use the wrench, I checked two separate Frams and both required wrench after initial spin or two.  Also, the previously leaking Wix filter does screw more easily on.   The threads on the mount looked fine.   After re-checking that 3593a is compatible, I used these wrench to get several rotations until the seal squeezed some.  No more leak.

At this point, I am trying to put this in the worry about it next oil change but failing.  Besides cross threading or perhaps just a tight fit, anything else I may be missing here?  I see the oil filter adapter/mount is a $35 part so replacing that seems worse case here to me.



Main Message Board / Change Oil Filter without Draining Oil?
« on: August 29, 2020, 02:39:31 PM »

My oil filter has a drip that refuses to go away.  I did a recent oil change not long ago.

Looks like I can change the oil filter given its height above the pan without removing oil.   Want to be sure though!

Am I correct?  Universal M25xp.




Yes, thanks I did.   I found a bit of wear on the load side of the pins but nothing that would impact their integrity.   So, I did as thought below which was flip the pins around to expose the non-worn side of the pin to the loaded side of the bushing/sheave.    Bushing and sheave looked good with no issue with play.,8876.msg63905.html


Thanks everyone.   Just removed my steering cable & chain from my 1988.

I saw it mentioned elsewhere but must remove the propane holder to get top down access to the eye bolts.  Then it is straightforward to remove the wire clamps.   I first removed the tightening screws on the eye bolts then the cable connected to the eye.  Generally would be easier with rear water tank removed as well which I did not do.

I was thinking all for one or two broken strands.  But then found a couple of more severe trouble spots - I believe one problem area is were the cable makes the sharp bend from the eye bolt onto the steering drive/quadrant.   Also discovered that the cotter pin holding chain to cable was nearly worked out (or never put in place correctly.).  Also found some broke strands on top of the thimble connected to chain.  So, glad I went through this exercise.


Hello everyone,

I have seen some postings on this subject.    My steering cable has a barb with more on the way so it is time to replace.

Context is around the removal of the wire cable and the "take up eyes."  Is the process below correct?

1)  Remove two cable tightening nuts on the take up eyes.
2)  Pull the "take up eye" off the radial drive wheel along with the attached wire. 
3)  Back off the clamps to release the "take up eye" in the immense room of the aft cabin.

Some have said that I will need to release the clamps first, then I can remove the cable and then remove the "take up eyes."  Those clamps on top of the radial drive look difficult to reach when in position.

This is one of those projects I want to have detailed out before I touch anything.


Main Message Board / Re: Catalina Smile
« on: January 15, 2020, 04:52:29 PM »
Hi All,

Just had my bottom job done this week.   Here is my smile - top photo this weeks haulout bottom from 2017 haulout.  Bilge is dry (in summer.)

Lots of excellent information here obviously.  I figured some pics may be helpful to showcase one example of a C34 fin keel smile.


Main Message Board / Re: Loss of RPM
« on: May 20, 2019, 02:03:10 PM »
I had a similar loss of RPM issue on my '88.  I noticed that it was dumping unburnt fuel out of the exhaust which led me to believe that back pressure might be the issue and it was.  The exhaust elbow had narrowed.   Replaced the elbow and problem solved.  I didn't see this ticked off as a check in thread so thought I'd bring it up.


Main Message Board / Re: gps mount on pedestal question
« on: June 08, 2017, 08:16:15 AM »
Similar to Scanstrut, I've used Ram Mounts successfully.  I have one ball mount by instrument panel (w wiring) and one at pedestal (w wiring routed up pedestal tube and out of bottom instruments) and a holder for a Garman charplotter.  So typically, I just leave the device connected inside at the instrument table unless I need above deck navigation (rarely) in which case I bring above and connect to the ball/wiring at the pedestal.   I also have a ram mount for ipad & iphone near instrument table (that wifis into my VHF/autopilot.)[model]=GPSMAP+741#wizard


Main Message Board / Re: Rudder is soaked
« on: November 07, 2016, 02:07:19 PM »
Here is a Catalina 34 rudder on the Bay Area craigslist fyi for $1900

Main Message Board / Re: Chartplotter opinions?
« on: June 10, 2015, 04:31:13 PM »
Do you own an iPad?  If so, you can consider iNavx application on the iPad a "back up."   Just keep it in the boat unless you get a nice waterproof cover.  You could then pick up something used for primary use/marine grade purposes.  

Interestingly, on my C34 I have a Garmin primary of previous design and on my friend's boat he has a new Raymarine.   When sailing on my or his boat, we always use the iPad because it is so easy/intuitive to use...  

Agree that integration is another topic/key issue per the previous post.


Main Message Board / Re: M25xp - Grey smoke, unburnt fuel in exhaust
« on: November 09, 2014, 02:21:16 PM »

I hear you on that.  Engine starts/runs perfect with no smoke so think I'm ok on that front.

My theory is the raw water nipple extended a bit too far into the exhaust pipe which created a place for junk - carbon, salt etc to form.


Main Message Board / Re: M25xp - Grey smoke, unburnt fuel in exhaust
« on: November 08, 2014, 09:51:18 PM »
Hello everyone,

I installed the new exhaust riser (from Catalina Direct) and the problem is solved/all is good.

The boat revs even higher now in gear - 3000 - with my 15x10 flexofold - whereas before it went only to 2850/2900.  Interestingly, maybe this riser is a bit less restrictive.  I did note that the raw water nipple doesn't extend as far into the exhaust pipe on this version.

Thanks for all your comments/help.


Main Message Board / Re: M25xp - Grey smoke, unburnt fuel in exhaust
« on: November 03, 2014, 07:36:32 PM »
Bingo.   Just pulled hump hose and exhaust riser is blocked right in front of the place where raw water injects. 

Time to pull the 6 year old riser and either clean or get a new one.

Thanks again for everyone's help.


Main Message Board / Re: M25xp - Grey smoke, unburnt fuel in exhaust
« on: November 03, 2014, 10:48:34 AM »

Breather tube runs down to oil absorbing pad under engine.  Silver dollar sized black mark to where the tube blows.  Oil engine level was perfect when I checked it when this symptom first arose.

At this point, I think I will check exhaust, then check injectors, then replace injectors or then have someone replace/rebuild injection pump...


Main Message Board / Re: M25xp - Grey smoke, unburnt fuel in exhaust
« on: November 02, 2014, 09:56:00 PM »
Thanks Ron and Ken.  That is on the next steps list.  Did some more symptom checking though today. 

Boat idles to 3100 fine.  Reverse at dock 2400 max and fuel in exhaust as before.  Removed k&n airfilter - no impact to symptoms.  Screwdriver to ear on the 3 injectors and they all sound the same.  Noticed air filter was black with what appears to be oil or fuel.  Was red not too long ago.  Now thinking exhaust may be restricted causing too much back pressure as another potential cause?  Elbow is only 6 years old - muffler and exhaust hose original.  But cooling water seems to come out the back fine.  Or does fuel in an air filter also arise with any cause of unburnt fuel including injectors?  Maybe I am grasping at straws. 


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