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Messages - kurt

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16
Main Message Board / Re: M25xp - Grey smoke, unburnt fuel in exhaust
« on: October 14, 2014, 07:28:33 AM »
Hello Stu,

I guess I sail a bit too much (and motor a bit too little.) 

I started the boat yesterday and upon startup saw some black come out of the exhaust initially creating a bit of a black sheen on the surface of the water, then idled fine.  Lately though I see the smoke and black injected into the water only after the boat is well warmed up.  Am starting to think it is showing the symptoms of being slightly overpropped - I get to 2800 rpm max, flexofold 3 blade 10x15.  Next time out will try to examine the situation more closely at varying rpm levels.    Thanks for the advice/thoughts.

Kurt

17
Main Message Board / M25xp - Grey smoke, unburnt fuel in exhaust
« on: October 12, 2014, 08:59:48 PM »
My '88 (1300 hours) has just recently begun giving off some smoke and I noticed looking behind the boat that fuel is coming out of the exhaust. I can see the black fuel in the water.   Boat starts fine, runs fine and is not overheating.  (I've previously sorted out the hx and am pretty sure that is not an issue.)

Should I just replace the injectors?  Check the valves for adjustment?  (Or hire a mechanic to further diagnose.)

Any insight appreciated.

Kurt

18
Main Message Board / Re: Source for good MOB/COB Pole
« on: August 19, 2013, 02:31:52 PM »
Here is an inflatable one:

http://marine.the-justgroup.com/

19
Main Message Board / Re: Installing Second Manual Bilge Pump
« on: March 06, 2013, 01:13:27 PM »
Thanks.

This is an updated rule set:  http://norcalorc.org/sites/default/files/NCORC%20Minimum%20Offshore%20Requirements%201.06.pdf 

At least one permanently installed manual bilge pump with capacity of at least 10 gallons per minute operable with cabin closed.

Definitely looks like one needs to be careful using any below (at any time) the water-line through hulls.

Kurt

20
Main Message Board / Re: Installing Second Manual Bilge Pump
« on: March 05, 2013, 10:20:38 PM »
Hi Kevin - Northern California minimum equipment standards for ocean racing require a permanently installed manual bilge pump of > 10 gpm operable inside the cabin.  Kurt

21
Main Message Board / Installing Second Manual Bilge Pump
« on: March 04, 2013, 09:06:06 PM »
I'm investigating installing a second manual bilge pump that can be pumped from inside the cabin.   Probably will get the Whale Titan so that I can use same repair kit on the bilge pump near wheel.

I'd like to avoid boring another through-hull into my boat so am considering re-using the galley sink through-hull or one of the two existing bilge pump through-hulls.  All would be T'd and looped accordingly to ensure no cross or back-flow.

Anyone have any experience setting up a second manual pump inside cabin?  Where did you mount the pump?   

Thanks for your thoughts.

Kurt

22
Main Message Board / DSC - Channel Busy Behavior
« on: May 17, 2012, 01:49:16 PM »
Hello everyone,

Been testing out my DSC/AIS radio (Standard Horizion 2100) with a masthead antenna specifically issuing position requests and position reports.  9 times out of 10 the receiver deems the channel (70) as busy and holds DSC transmission until the channel is no longer so.  Most of the time this takes less than a minute but sometimes more.  When I listen to channel 70 directly, typical non-digital white noise is in the background but it is difficult to squelch it out at any levels lower than max and even then oftent times this does not do the trick.    I also have a handheld DSC radio and this does not show similar behavior.

Location is SF Bay area and thus a busy area.  I can't find a local vs. distance sensitivity control on the radio and manual doesn't seem to note one. 

Is this normal DSC radio behavior?  Obviously, connecting the dots I am a bit concerned that if one ever needs to press the DSC emergency button and the "channel busy" hangs the transmission for minutes... 

Thx,

Kurt


23
Main Message Board / Re: Standard Horizon Matrix GX2100
« on: May 11, 2012, 07:00:38 PM »
I upgraded to AIS with the SH2100 and added a Brookhouse Imux to broadcast via wifi AIS to my iPad where I run iNavX chartplotting software which visually displays all the AIS targets.  Alarming is still managed by the radio.  I am impressed by the Brookhouse devices and how dialed in there standard mux capabilities are.  I would highly recommend them.  Both Brookhouse and iNavx where very responsive to my email queries.

I believe the mux is needed only where slower baud rate gps data needs to be combined with a faster baud rate for ais streams.  In my case a garmin 276c gps data is muxed with the sh2100 ais data and then broadcasted over wifi to the ipad.  (276c can't display high spead nmea data)  Since your plotter already has a gps signal I don't think a mux is required either.  One other advantage of a mux is that if a gps/plotter were to fail a mux can automatically default to a secondary gps which in my case is the iPad.  Again, brookhouse had this all configured in their standard setup.

Kurt

24
Main Message Board / Re: BRONZE HOSES
« on: April 08, 2012, 06:51:58 PM »
Hello everyone,  Thank you very much for your help and numbers on this one.   For the current time have decided to stay with the single 7/8" wire reinforce hose which will run from pump to hx.  Will watch it closely for fraying and go to the gates hose with elbow approach  noted here if so.  Photo attached fyi.  Thanks again, Kurt

25
Main Message Board / Re: BRONZE HOSES
« on: March 26, 2012, 04:04:58 PM »
Thanks Stu.  Yes, that is the hose.

It appears after discussion with CD that I must order the entire alternator replacement kit from CD to get that hose/elbow which I'd like to avoid doing.  (I tossed the entire contraption last weekend.)

So, am going to try the heat gun on the 7/8" hose and see if that can soften it up enough for me to get the hose up on the water pump outlet...

26
Main Message Board / Re: BRONZE HOSES - Front Curved Fresh Water Hose
« on: March 26, 2012, 02:30:43 PM »
I'm in the process of cleaning up my HX and replacing some old/original fresh water hoses around the engine.

I see that torrensen marine diesel direct has the front hose as a single 30" wire reinforced hose with no pre-bend.

This bend appears to my eye to have the internal nipple of the fresh water pump almost cutting into the hose as the hose is bent to port around the engine.  I do not like the look of this.

Is there an easy/better alternative solution?  I also notice that it is difficult to get the hose all the way up on the fresh water pump nipple as there isn't much clearance room on back side of that nipple.

Thanks,

Kurt

(http://www.marinedieseldirect.com/catalogs/catalog_group.php?owner=mdd&page_ident=200142-33&model=M-25 / M-25XP / M-25XPA&manufacturer=Universal&title=Water Flange Group and Temp Sender&quant_position=&catalog=200142&printparts=200142&printservice=200151&printoperators=200157&comment1=)

[corrected url - Stu]


27
Main Message Board / Re: Shorepower Connector @ Boat - Mark I
« on: February 21, 2012, 01:06:41 PM »
The fridge... 

28
Main Message Board / Shorepower Connector @ Boat - Mark I
« on: February 21, 2012, 07:51:35 AM »
Hello everyone,

A shorepower tale especially for Mk1 owners...

Recently had an intermittent connection on my shorepower connection on my '88 Mk I.  I thought it was at the cord to connector so fiddled with it and all was well.    Recently showed up to my boat with batteries @ zero, discovered lack of shorepower, and then had to diagnose. Quickly discovered the cord side female connector and the male receptacle on the boat both were literally toasted - attributed the cycling of a 5-10 amp heater on and off repeatably as the straw that broke the camels back.    Fortunate the toasting was isolated to plug and receptacle to say the least.

Proceeded to remove the male connector from the boat and noticed that over the years the white wire appears to have become marginal and ultimately just fried itself free (see above) from the plug thus breaking the circuit.

Ordered a new screw for screw compatible Hubbel stainless replacement receptacle from Amazon for ~$80 and rewired the shorepower and all is good as new. (Looked at the newer technologies for shorepower but didn't want to drill new holes.)  The new hubble connector did have a better design including strain relief vs. the '88 version of the connector.  Not a difficult job at all but I'm a bit oversized for the lazerette...

Learnings:

1) It is very easy to stick your head in the lazerette to check out the state of the terminals on the back end of your shorepower receptacle.
2)  It is very easy to replace the receptacle at nominal cost if connections look less than good/great.
3)  It is easier to do 1) and 2) above than have my experience IMO.



 

29
Main Message Board / Re: Hull Gelcoat Color - '88
« on: October 27, 2011, 11:23:50 AM »
Hello everyone,

Re-sprayed the boat with the '89-'95 catalina spectrum white gelcoat for my '88 C34 and the results where superb.  (A very small amount of red was added to this color to ensure/improve match.)  Boatyard said the '80-'88 spectrum catalina white looked ok until it dried when it turned much too yellow.

So, moral of story, your '88 may require the '89-'95 color so...

Regards,

Kurt

30
Main Message Board / Hull Gelcoat Color - '88
« on: October 22, 2011, 07:25:33 PM »
Hello everyone,

Getting some damage repaired on my hull and am now trying to match gelcoat colors.  My boat is a 1988 hull #796.  I initially selected the spectrum color 3500 which is the '80-'88 Catalina gelcoat color supposably.  After spraying by the boatyard it turned out to be much too yellow.  Have ordered a quart of of the 3503 which is the white for the '89-'95 Catalina's which is due to arrive midweek and will be tried then.  Spectrum color people say the 3500 is yellower and the 3503 is bluer.  Anyone ever go through this matching excersize and have any advice to share?

http://www.spectrumcolor.com/Items.aspx?key=cat&code=stwhite&manu=CATALINA&incl_m=F

Thanks

 Kurt

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