Join the C34 Association Today!
[C34 Home] [C34Tech Notes] [C34 Tech Wiki] [Join!]
Please login or register.
Advanced search  

News:

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - kurt

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4
31
Main Message Board / Re: Needed 3 blade prop
« on: August 29, 2010, 05:57:54 PM »
Hi - I have a 15x10R 3-blade serving as a nautical paperweight since upgrading to a folder a while ago on my 88 C34 M25xp.

Please email me if you may be interested in possibly purchasing.

32
Main Message Board / Re: globe impeller for oberdorfer
« on: April 20, 2010, 09:19:45 AM »
I as well had an issue of occasionally failing to prime at all or taking some time to prime with the globe impeller on the oberdorfer water pump.

Went back to oem impeller and priming problems ceased.

Kurt

33
Main Message Board / Re: Flex-o-Fold Folding Prop
« on: April 12, 2010, 10:31:11 AM »
Clay,

Added a Flex-O-Fold 3 blade folder a couple years back and have been pleased with it.  I selected the 10 inch pitch based upon FoF recommendation for the M25xp.  Regarding 9 or 10 inch pitch you can see my results at the link below:

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4298.msg25546.html#msg25546


Kurt

34
Main Message Board / Re: Attaching Cheek Block to Boom
« on: March 16, 2010, 09:35:58 PM »
Thanks everyone.

Now starting to wonder now if the Schaefer Marine Cheek Block 2" Sheeve with 1750 lbs breaking strenght is strong enough.

Yes, I could go with internal reefing for the second reef but this would force me to add a block at the mast, change to a 3 or double deck organizer, add another clutch, modify the dodger to allow room for 3 lines...   For a reef (second) I use once or twice a year thought the MkI approach would be simpler and get the job done as it did for both reefs previously.

Thanks again,

Kurt

35
Main Message Board / Attaching Cheek Block to Boom
« on: March 16, 2010, 01:30:29 PM »
Hello everyone,

Replaced my MKI w a MKII boom sourced from Catalina.  Would like to attach a cheek block permanently for Reef #2 a al MKI style reefing to the boom.  (Using the internal single line setup for Reef #1.)  Don't want to install a track like the MKI's.

I am not sure yet if I can reach into the boom and hold the nuts for screws to attach the cheek block to the boom.   If I can will use screws.  If not, considering aluminum pop rivets.   Had good success pop riveting my new steaming light in last weekend and think this may be a good solution here as well.  Am I missing anything here?  Seems like the rivets should more than handle the sheer loads generated?  

Thanks,

Kurt

36
Main Message Board / Re: VHF Reception Issue
« on: July 27, 2009, 04:14:24 PM »
Thanks everyone for the recommendations.  Fortunately, this turned out to be a user error.  The good folks at West Marine have seen this problem frequently on the Uniden radios - there is a MemUIC button which makes it very easy to toggle between USA Canada and International VHF frequencies.  In my case, it was running on  International VHF band whatever those are which created the disconnect regarding frequencies.  Now if all my boating problems could be so easy to fix.   Thanks again,   Kurt

37
Main Message Board / VHF Reception Issue
« on: July 26, 2009, 11:05:48 AM »
Hello everyone,

My uniden fixed mount vhf radio appears to not be able to recieve communication on channels 17 through 66 - did not check if transmitting worked on these channels which I will do another day as the thought just hit me.  Channels 67 and above and 16 and below do recieve and transmit based upon previous working history - did check antenna connection at the radio and all looked fine.  Did a quick glance at the manual and didn't see any european configuration settings or things like that being user accessable.

I didn't discover this issue until a race when committee was using 66 2 weeks ago - I suspect the issue has been in place since first install 2.5 years ago.

I suppose antenna, antenna cable, and radio are the only possible suspects here.  I plan to swap out the antenna as that is the least expensive choice of fixes and go from there. 

Any one have any other thoughts re diagnosis or fix?

Thanks,

Kurt
'88 C34 796

38
Main Message Board / Re: Mainsheet Blocks & Routing
« on: July 22, 2009, 09:23:41 PM »
My Mk1 boom snapped into two pieces at the 3rd bail this past weekend and will be doing the upgrade to the Mk II boom which will have two bales.

When referring to two blocks in this thread do I need to get two blocks for each bale connection or 1 double block per bale?

Also, the Mk II boom will have internal reefing that has the lines coming out of the top of the boom at the gooseneck side to run to the reef cringle and back aft for single line reefing.  Personally, I like my current MkI reefing setup which uses two lines and keeps the lines out of the cockpit.  I suppose I can take reef 1 aft to the cockpit and possibly leave reef 2 up front and tie off on the cleat on the mast that the Mk1's use for the reefing cringle line.  However is the winch helpfull when using a single line reefing when led aft or not necessary? 

Thanks

Kurt

39
Main Message Board / Re: foaming diesel
« on: November 24, 2008, 02:17:18 PM »
Thanks Stu.  Good to know.   Your 1/2 gallon per our is a good conservative metric I will use.  FYI, my logs have me at about ~.3 GPH w my cruise at ~2100 rpm.  Kurt

40
Main Message Board / foaming diesel
« on: November 24, 2008, 08:47:29 AM »
Hello,

About 1 of every 2 fill ups I get foaming diesel which forces me to very gradually fill the tank.  I've checked the fuel tank vent - no problem.   Also, I do add a bit of FPPF Total Power prior to every fill.   Is there any way to mitigate this or just live with it?

Thanks,

Kurt
'88 #796 M25XP

41
Main Message Board / Re: Folding props
« on: November 13, 2008, 01:30:51 PM »
I recently went from a 15x9 fixed 3 blade to a 15x10 3 blade folder from flexofold on my '88 25xp.  Net-net when motoring, I can't tell it is a folder which was the reason I selected 3 blades - maybe a bit less prop walk in reverse but small amount that one forgets quickly.  While when sailing, performance has become very noticeable especially in the light stuff < 12 knots which is unforgettable.  Finally, the hub of the prop is quite sizeable when in hand vs. photos on the web.  Wouldn't surprise me that it is a bit heavier than the fixed orop...

Kurt 


42
Main Message Board / Secondary Winch Size (For Spinnaker)
« on: November 04, 2008, 08:03:38 AM »
Hello,

I'm evaluating adding a symmetrical spinnaker to my '88 C34.  On that note, what size winches are recommended for the secondary's in the cockpit for Spinnaker Sheets?

Thanks,

Kurt



43
Ok - just got the "custom made" shorter cars from Garhauer which installed great in the recessed tracks.  I had to hacksaw a bit of the extra track it came with to be able to set the car in the recess mount it but that wasn't a big deal.  I ended up using about 35 feet of rope on each side although I rigged the car for full front to about 70% of full back travel. 

Kurt

44
Thanks Stu - good idea:-) 

On that note:

According to Ted -- "There's not enough space and you'll have to remove the last three bolts and raise the back of the track. " Which I may do.

I also called Garhauer this morning and Mark would like the cars back and he will shorten them to 5 & 1/2".  He claims that going to two-piece cars are not his recommended approach any longer.  I will need to measure if this will give me sufficient clearance and then pick one of these possible solutions.

Kurt
 




45
Hello everyone,

Just purchased the EZ Glide system.  My '88 has the standard, recessed track set up.   How does one actually mount the car on the track?  I have tried to do so and have failed several times but have gotten good at repacking the bearings.   Specifically, I am unable to fit the larger car with the fairlead/bearings onto the track.  I am forced to tilt it a bit as it extends from the track but past the recessed point and that angle prevents the mount.    Must I remove the track, slide the car on, and then reseal/bolt down to make this work?   

Thanks for any advice/comments here.

Kurt

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4