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Hello everyone,

To conclude, this is the boat bottom now painted after sitting for a day.   One weep drip no worse (actually less/better) than 3 years ago.  Note the yard only sanded bottom and painted - did not do anything on smile.

Keel bolts were tight and bilge dry.

Thanks,

Kurt

Hello Everyone,

Thank you for the helpful comments.

Just hauled the boat and a miracle occurred - the smile is gone!  Not quite - but there is zero visible change over the 3 years and bilge is bone dry.   Hopefully, this time lapse view is interesting.

Will add more photos once on the hard if anything changes.

Thanks again,

Kurt

Hello C34 Group,

Getting ready for next weeks bottom job on my '88 #796 C34. 

Pic post paint from January 2020 haulout.   I had expected the yard to do some minimal smile prep at this haulout but they did not - just clean sand and paint.  I made the decision to just put the boat in the water.   

Today, bilge is dry and my inclination is to do minimal smile prep work at this haulout.  Not a huge fan of the cosmetics but not concerned.   Anything suggest otherwise?   Pretty standard stuff? 

We will see what things look like post hoist / cleaning and make final decisions then.

Thanks,

Kurt

Hi All,

I replaced my steering quadrant cable last year on my '88 C34.   The boat and steering has performed well even very recently in 20-22knots in sloppy seas w full main & 130.

But, there is this minor stickiness or detent felt via the wheel at center/0 degree rudder.   Once I move the wheel past this stickiness all is fine and I no longer feel any detent or stickiness at 0 degree while steering and working the wheel.   However, if I leave the wheel again at 0 degrees for some time the stickiness reappears.

I can only think of two unlikely potential causes:  1) the new cable is a bit more tensioned and perhaps the rudder bearings are a little worn at the zero degree mark  2) the below decks autopilot ram has some detent at the 0 degree point for whatever reason.

This doesn't feel like a serious safety issue but I'd sure like to know exactly what may be causing this. 

Any other ideas or thoughts?

I will be pulling my rear panel for annual steering check soon.

Thanks all,

Kurt

Thanks all.

I can confirm all the supportive comments regarding changing oil filter while leaving the oil in the engine.

The good news is I replaced the WIX with a Fram 3593A and the leaking has stopped.

The news I was a bit concerned about was that I had to use the wrench after initial seating of the filter to get it on the mount.  Before committing to use the wrench, I checked two separate Frams and both required wrench after initial spin or two.  Also, the previously leaking Wix filter does screw more easily on.   The threads on the mount looked fine.   After re-checking that 3593a is compatible, I used these wrench to get several rotations until the seal squeezed some.  No more leak.

At this point, I am trying to put this in the worry about it next oil change but failing.  Besides cross threading or perhaps just a tight fit, anything else I may be missing here?  I see the oil filter adapter/mount is a $35 part so replacing that seems worse case here to me.

Thanks,

Kurt

Folks,

My oil filter has a drip that refuses to go away.  I did a recent oil change not long ago.

Looks like I can change the oil filter given its height above the pan without removing oil.   Want to be sure though!

Am I correct?  Universal M25xp.

Thanks,

Kurt

Ron,

Yes, thanks I did.   I found a bit of wear on the load side of the pins but nothing that would impact their integrity.   So, I did as thought below which was flip the pins around to expose the non-worn side of the pin to the loaded side of the bushing/sheave.    Bushing and sheave looked good with no issue with play.   

https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,8876.msg63905.html

Kurt

Thanks everyone.   Just removed my steering cable & chain from my 1988.

I saw it mentioned elsewhere but must remove the propane holder to get top down access to the eye bolts.  Then it is straightforward to remove the wire clamps.   I first removed the tightening screws on the eye bolts then the cable connected to the eye.  Generally would be easier with rear water tank removed as well which I did not do.

I was thinking all for one or two broken strands.  But then found a couple of more severe trouble spots - I believe one problem area is were the cable makes the sharp bend from the eye bolt onto the steering drive/quadrant.   Also discovered that the cotter pin holding chain to cable was nearly worked out (or never put in place correctly.).  Also found some broke strands on top of the thimble connected to chain.  So, glad I went through this exercise.

Kurt
.

Hello everyone,

I have seen some postings on this subject.    My steering cable has a barb with more on the way so it is time to replace.

Context is around the removal of the wire cable and the "take up eyes."  Is the process below correct?

1)  Remove two cable tightening nuts on the take up eyes.
2)  Pull the "take up eye" off the radial drive wheel along with the attached wire. 
3)  Back off the clamps to release the "take up eye" in the immense room of the aft cabin.

Some have said that I will need to release the clamps first, then I can remove the cable and then remove the "take up eyes."  Those clamps on top of the radial drive look difficult to reach when in position.

This is one of those projects I want to have detailed out before I touch anything.

Kurt

Hi All,

Just had my bottom job done this week.   Here is my smile - top photo this weeks haulout bottom from 2017 haulout.  Bilge is dry (in summer.)

Lots of excellent information here obviously.  I figured some pics may be helpful to showcase one example of a C34 fin keel smile.


Kurt

I had a similar loss of RPM issue on my '88.  I noticed that it was dumping unburnt fuel out of the exhaust which led me to believe that back pressure might be the issue and it was.  The exhaust elbow had narrowed.   Replaced the elbow and problem solved.  I didn't see this ticked off as a check in thread so thought I'd bring it up.

Kurt

Similar to Scanstrut, I've used Ram Mounts successfully.  I have one ball mount by instrument panel (w wiring) and one at pedestal (w wiring routed up pedestal tube and out of bottom instruments) and a holder for a Garman charplotter.  So typically, I just leave the device connected inside at the instrument table unless I need above deck navigation (rarely) in which case I bring above and connect to the ball/wiring at the pedestal.   I also have a ram mount for ipad & iphone near instrument table (that wifis into my VHF/autopilot.) 

http://www.rammount.com/device/gpsboat/garmin?cascade[model]=GPSMAP+741#wizard

http://www.rammount.com/part/RAP-404U

http://www.rammount.com/part/RAM-231U

Kurt

Here is a Catalina 34 rudder on the Bay Area craigslist fyi for $1900

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/boa/5865622325.html

Do you own an iPad?  If so, you can consider iNavx application on the iPad a "back up."   Just keep it in the boat unless you get a nice waterproof cover.  You could then pick up something used for primary use/marine grade purposes.  

Interestingly, on my C34 I have a Garmin primary of previous design and on my friend's boat he has a new Raymarine.   When sailing on my or his boat, we always use the iPad because it is so easy/intuitive to use...  

Agree that integration is another topic/key issue per the previous post.

Kurt

Ron,

I hear you on that.  Engine starts/runs perfect with no smoke so think I'm ok on that front.

My theory is the raw water nipple extended a bit too far into the exhaust pipe which created a place for junk - carbon, salt etc to form.

Kurt