Messages

Ken, and Stu,

>>>>>>>>>>>>>

In any case I've got the bolts necessary to do the upgrade but what I find counter-intuitive is the recommendation that the thru bolts be mounted as close to center as possible. It seems to me you'd get a better purchase mounting them as far outboard as possible.

Kevin,

It would be helpful for you to click on the Critical Upgrade link I provided and please read the two links in that first thread.  The reason is that the pictures I provided show that the long bolts that I installed on my boat came through holes in the traveller track inboard of the machine screws into the plate.  They also show the mistake I made of having one four holes in and the other three holes in.  Turns out that didn't matter much because the one further inboard on the starboard side just got an acorn nut stuck on the inside, while the other one just barely made it deep enough to be able to put a fender washer and nut on it!

If you put the 9 inch bolts further outboard they won't be long enough.

If you get longer ones, I can't tell you enough of the geometry of the curved headliner vs. the flat traveller fiberglass to tell you if it'd work.

That's why we recommend following what has worked for others.

As far as support, no, it wouldn't make any difference, because its still the two machine screws plus the two through bolts - over that short a distance it doesn't matter what order and that thick and stiff track.

[NOT at McMaster]

• That 9" bolt is a real odd ball.
  

  
  
  NOT at McMaster, which was the source recommended in the original post about doing the 101 Upgrade!  That's why I pointed you toward the 101.
  

IIRC, it's in CRITICAL UPGRADES, not in 101:

https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5078.0.html

Here in my town in Canada you have to be a member of Fastenal to buy from them, requires a tradesman's license.

Thanks to our Association Editor, Jack Hutteball, for this information.

An Update on Mainsheet Magazine from Catalina Yachts

All,
Here is the latest information on the elusive Mainsheet Magazine.
Jack Hutteball

Sent from my iPad

Begin forwarded message:

> From: David Landis <david@landisproductions.com>
> Date: August 26, 2025 at 1:12:55 PM PDT
> To: David Landis <david@landisproductions.com>
> Subject: An Update on Mainsheet Magazine from Catalina Yachts
>
> �
>
Dear Editors,
>
 I'm excited to report that Patrick Turner (President of Catalina Yachts) has this news to share about the future of Mainsheet Magazine (please see below).
>
> -David Landis
>
> - - - - - - -
>
> Dear Mainsheet Subscriber,
>
> We want to share an important update regarding Mainsheet. As Catalina Yachts transitions to new ownership, we have made the decision to pause publication of the magazine until Spring 2026.
>
> This transition marks an exciting new chapter for Catalina, and with it comes an opportunity to thoughtfully plan the future of Mainsheet. While the pause is temporary, our dedication to the magazine — and to the Catalina community it represents — remains unchanged.
>
> We are committed to resuming Mainsheet with fresh energy and vision, ensuring it continues to be a valued resource and a celebration of the Catalina family.
>
> What this means for the production calendar is this: The Summer 2025 issue (that the Association Editors already submitted content for) will be published as our Spring 2026 issue — released to readers in February 2026. The submissions deadline for NEW content will be March 1st and published as the Summer 2026 issue.
>
> Thank you for your patience, loyalty, and continued support during this period of change. We look forward to bringing you the next issue in Spring 2026.
>
> With appreciation,
>
> Patrick Turner
>
> President, Catalina Yachts
>
>

Just to be clear, the issue is leaking past the outer lip seal so he needs to pull and inspect the shaft, not just pull the impeller from the shaft.

When one tries to reinsert the shaft/impeller as a unit there's two locations (180 degrees apart) that the shaft fits back onto the camshaft.  If it's not lined up correctly it's difficult to rotate the impeller when inside the water chamber to get the shaft lined up with the camshaft.
 
That's why it's best to mark the position of the impeller when removing it.

Ken's right.  This issue comes up so often that I took pictures of the shaft and what's inside behind the gear case cover.  Those photos are in this link:

Oberdorfer Pump Rebuild 101 - http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6766.0.html [Link added to main page of C34 Tech wiki]

Here's a helpful link for a pump rebuild for an Oberdorfer.  There is a Sherwood rebuild in the tech wiki but I'd opt to replace the Sherwood with an Oberdorfer because of all the dissimilar metals in a Sherwood.

Oberdorfer Pump Rebuild 101 - http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6766.0.html [Link added to main page of C34 Tech wiki]

I motored 1,650 nm from SF to British Columbia.  There is no reason to ever disconnect the water heater from the engine coolant system,  unless you have a leak in the hoses to the heater or a defective T&P valve.  The repair to the hoses I wrote up and is in Critical Upgrades.  The T&P replacement is easy - take it off and go to a hardware store.

So after I posted the original question I ran the engine at slow speeds (1200-1400rpm) and the drip didn't trigger the bilge pump even after half an hour of running. I also noticed a bunch of hot steaming water in the bilge after I washed my hands. My first thought was that there was something wrong with the exhaust system but that seemed ok, but then I looked at the water heater under the galley sink and it was hissing and dripping water. Not sure if that is connected with the water pump issue? I have uploaded a video on YouTube that shows the drip. I checked the impeller about a month ago and it didn't seem like it had any broken vanes so I left it alone.

You have two different issues.

1.  Leaking raw water pump - This means the SEALS inside the pump are failing.  When they do, they leak through the weep holes, which are telltales to tell you that you have to replace the seals.  There is a how To in the 101 Topics: Oberdorfer Pump Rebuild 101 - http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6766.0.html [Link added to main page of C34 Tech wiki].  If it is a slow leak, finish your cruise, but fix it soon or else water can mix with engine oil.

2. Water heater pressure relief valve - If you keep the heater plugged in all the time, this valve can "pop" because the water gets too hot and expands.  Only 30 minutes is needed to get water hot.  Then turn off the breaker.  Flip the lever on the valve to release pressure.  Sometimes crud gets stuck inside the valve, repeated flipping may clear it, if not get a new valve at a hardware store.

...........and that the swim ladder is really difficult to climb.  Any solutions for this?

I bought a Johnson "Extend-A-Step" that hooks onto the lowest rung of the ladder.  The Mark I ladders had always been known to be difficult because they were not deep enough to use easily.  I don't know if the step extenders are still being made.

Alex,

I'll be 80 in December.  We've had Aquavite since July 1998 (almost her birthday with us, early July! ).  18 years in SF, cruising and racing, preceded by 11 years with a C25 and four before that with a C22.  Our memorable trip up here in 2016 was followed by fun years cruising the Gulf and San Juan islands.  Many memories, no need for future plans, lots of photos and memories.

Boat is all cleaned out and up.

Yes

1986 Catalina 34  Standard Rig  Fin Keel

$35,000 CAD

Located in Maple Bay Marina, Vancouver Island, British Columbia

Sale by broker, Passage Yachts, (250) 748-5004; see:  https://www.boatdealers.ca/boats-for-sale/588011/catalina-34-duncan-british-columbia/printListing


ENGINE
Universal M25, 3 cylinder, 21hp
Hours - 3750
Prop - 3 blade 15x10

TANKS
Fuel - 25 gallons
Water -72 gallons
Holding - 25 gallons
Water heater - 6 gallon, replaced w/ new Seaward 2013

DECK EQUIPMENT
Anchor - Bruce #16, Rocna #22 10, Chain - 50' 1/4" 2018 Rode - 200' 5/8" 2016
Winches - 2 x self tailing Lewmar 46
Winches - 2 x self tailing Lewmar 30

ELECTRICAL
Inverter/charger - Heart Freedom 15 combination - inverter 1500w, 75A charger Battery monitor - Link 2000 and I/C controller
House Batteries - 3 x Group 31 FLA, 390 amp hours
Start - Group 24 FLA, 60 amp hours
Shore power cords - 2 x 30amp
Solar panel - 11w with 8A controller
LED lighting - saloon and galley

ELECTRONICS/NAVIGATION
Autohelm - Garmin ST3000 auto pilot
VHF - Standard Horizon handheld
VHF - Standard Horizon
GPS - Garmin GPSmap 76Cx handheld
GPS - 300 Magellan handheld
Compass - x 2 S
Stereo - Sony DSX 400BT with bluetooth. Cockpit and saloon speakers

SAILS
SAILS ORIGINAL 
Standing rigging replaced in 2001
Mainsail - Dacron - 2 reefing points, double line reefing, all lines lead aft to sheet stoppers, 4 full battens, harken battCar mainsail system, lazy jacks, standard sail cover with slits for lazy jacks 2
Dacron jibs: 85% and 110% with
Sunbrella covers Jib furling system - ProFurl LCI32 Garhauer rigid vang Adjustable split backstay with Garhauer split and vang Garhauer double deck organizers with upgraded bearings

GALLEY
Stove - 2 burner CNG with oven Stove - Butane 1 burner
Fridge/freezer -Alder Barbour

HEAD
Head - Raritan PHII manual with rebuild kit, fresh water flush with macerator
DINGHY
Zodiac 10'2" Cadet high pressure air floor with I/o carpet, manual foot pump, 120v power dinghy air pump
Outboard - 9.9 Evinrude, short shaft with fuel tank
Dinghy motor hoist
Dinghy towing bridal

OTHER
Muffler, exhaust riser and exhaust hose to transom replaced 2015
Replaced 2" heat exchanger with 3"
Facet fuel lift pump 2020
Life sling
BBQ - Magma Max propane with canister regulator
Cockpit cushions
Dodger and dodger cover
Oil change system
Maintenance records
Manuals
Haul out June 10, 2025
Survey June 2025

Add to Ken's good idea try the 101 Topics.  IIRC, I put my exhaust and muffler tech note link in there, too.

Some skippers have contacted me about the ERROR 404 issue over the course of the last few months.  This happens on the Join page and when trying to access the TNOs.

I wrote to our webmaster who advised me:

Thanks Stu.  Yeah, we get stuff like this from time to time when
people/companies/bots are scanning our site.  I've got a lot of blocks
setup these days to keep most of the world (and these scammers) out of
CPU intensive areas of our website but there's always someone out there
somewhere and blocking all of the internet not the solution ;)

It usually comes back online in a few minutes.  I have a monitor that
emails me whenever the site is blocked so I'm keeping track when I can.

PLEASE BE PATIENT and keep trying.

You can also try getting to the join page via the home page or the forum main page.  Sometimes that delay is enough, sometimes not.

Dave's contact is C34webmaster@gmail.com

Some skippers have contacted me about the ERROR 404 issue over the course of the last few months.

I wrote to our webmaster who advised me:

Thanks Stu.  Yeah, we get stuff like this from time to time when
people/companies/bots are scanning our site.  I've got a lot of blocks
setup these days to keep most of the world (and these scammers) out of
CPU intensive areas of our website but there's always someone out there
somewhere and blocking all of the internet not the solution ;)

It usually comes back online in a few minutes.  I have a monitor that
emails me whenever the site is blocked so I'm keeping track when I can.

PLEASE BE PATIENT and keep trying.

You can also try getting to the join page via the home page or the forum main page.  Sometimes that delay is enough, sometimes not.

Dave's contact is C34webmaster@gmail.com