Recent posts
#21
Main Message Board / Re: New Owner Questions
Last post by KWKloeber - November 21, 2024, 08:11:14 PMKrafty
No one but you knows how YOUR boat is set up, but TYPICALLY the tank is pumped out without using the macerator.
TYPICALLY, the macerator discharges to a thru hull, not to the deck pump out hose. HOWEVER, I had mine discharging to the deck pump out (the pump out was VERY weak and I wanted to assist it.) It's now changed back to "normal."
The plumbing diagrams in the Owner's Manual show the flow paths.
Typically the tank outzie hose does NOT have a valve, but no one knows about your boat. Trace the hose back from both ends to learn where and how it runs.
Naturally I don't know the circumstances of the boat purchase - was there no introduction to its systems? Is there a Catalina owner at your marina that could spend a few hours walking you through everything? It would be invaluable. I had to learn but "knew boats" still it would have been a head start had I had someone to show me.
No one but you knows how YOUR boat is set up, but TYPICALLY the tank is pumped out without using the macerator.
TYPICALLY, the macerator discharges to a thru hull, not to the deck pump out hose. HOWEVER, I had mine discharging to the deck pump out (the pump out was VERY weak and I wanted to assist it.) It's now changed back to "normal."
The plumbing diagrams in the Owner's Manual show the flow paths.
Typically the tank outzie hose does NOT have a valve, but no one knows about your boat. Trace the hose back from both ends to learn where and how it runs.
Naturally I don't know the circumstances of the boat purchase - was there no introduction to its systems? Is there a Catalina owner at your marina that could spend a few hours walking you through everything? It would be invaluable. I had to learn but "knew boats" still it would have been a head start had I had someone to show me.
#22
Main Message Board / Re: need info help about toile...
Last post by krafty81 - November 21, 2024, 07:46:53 PMQuote from: KWKloeber on April 25, 2022, 11:32:07 PM[edited]
I didn't say or mean to imply failsafe behavior. I said failsafe reminder (like Noah's -- one cannot start the engine w/o receiving the reminder (some hang the engine key on the thru-hull handle.))
If one thereafter chooses to ignore the reminder (human behavior) so be it!
I often say you can lead (power)boaters to water but you can't make 'em think LOL! (tongue-in-cheek -- I'm also a PB.)
If one opens a thru hull ONLY when using the head or macerator I'd suspect that there's some reminder system that would always "tell" the user to IMMEDIATELY close it. What that might be of course depends on what works best for the individual and I wouldn't even try to conclude that I'd know what method works for someone else -- only what works for me.
But the head intake can also flood the boat. Kinda likewise, a stuck vent on the cooling seawater vented loop can back-flood the engine cylinders and ruin one's day -- and I know a chap who installed a solenoid valve that shuts off that hose unless the engine is running -- and another who installed a solenoid valve that drains the muffler unless the engine is running. And of course any thru hull that's left open (hoses will NEVER fail when one's aboard -- only when no one is on the boat.) I generally close 'em all (my reminder that the sink TH is closed is to put a stopper in the drain.)
[edit]
The manual:
7. Close valve "B" immediately after emptying the holding tank.
You're right that should carry the same warning as for the head intake valve!
THIS WILL PREVENT WATER FROM FLOODING THE BOAT BECAUSE SEAWATER CAN BACKFLOW THRU THE VALVE, FILL THE HOLDING TANK, AND THEN CAN FILL TOILET AND WILL OVERFLOW THE BOWL.
New to my boat and looking for location of valve "b". The manual just has a schematic. Thanks.
#23
Main Message Board / Re: Winter projects
Last post by waughoo - November 21, 2024, 04:36:12 PMThat is a LOT more rudder!!
#24
Main Message Board / Re: MkII Fixed Portlight Repla...
Last post by waughoo - November 21, 2024, 04:31:49 PMThough I haven't done mine yet, I have pump up suction cups (4x) that have a camera 1/4-20 thread in the center. The plan is to build some cleats that span the opening and use a wing nut and all thread to pull the windows in place so the sealant can cure. The only issue is that I only have 4 so it will be a one at a time affair.
#25
Main Message Board / Re: Water heater replacement, ...
Last post by waughoo - November 21, 2024, 04:24:03 PMI have the Kuuma, but it came with the boat. I have no knowledge of how old it is.
#26
Main Message Board / Water heater replacement, Atwo...
Last post by pablosgirl - November 21, 2024, 03:28:58 PMWhile on the boat this week I noticed that the bilge pump was cycling and so was the pressure water pump. So the original Atwood water heater is shot. Some online shopping shows that I can get the Kuuma 11812 from Hodges Marine for $297.05 and the Atwood marine S600 from Boat & RV Accessories for$385.09. Both have the same dimensions with the rear heat exchanger connections. Does anyone have any experience with either of these. I am inclined to go with the Atwood since the original lasted this long. Does anyone have the Kuuma model and was it a drop in replacement.
#27
Main Message Board / Re: MkII Fixed Portlight Repla...
Last post by Robert Mann - November 21, 2024, 02:53:28 PMThanks Eric, I will check the beveled edge of my portlight to make sure I have enough bonding area with the VHB tape. I like this idea better than a huge bed of Dowsil 795.
#28
Main Message Board / Re: Considering Starlink - Any...
Last post by Brazen Article - November 21, 2024, 11:53:16 AMMine has been in continual use for over a year now from the bottom the Keys to the top of the Chesapeake. It works well 99% of the time, once in a while I've had to reboot it when it lost signal due to Starlink network errors.
I have the second generation Starlink, a rectangle with motors in the base on a short pole. On the boat it aims almost straight up so I disabled the motors and changed the power supply to run off 12 volts. Those mods and eliminating the Starlink 120 volt router save a lot of power.
The regional roam plan started at $150 a month, then Elon decided to raise it to $165. As long as you are not moving over 10 mph it works whether motoring, sailing or stationary. Regional Roam covers the Bahamas now but everything is subject to the whim of Starlink, since it is a month to month deal they can change anytime.
There is a boat plan for $165 too, my understanding is if you travel out of a region on open ocean you can pay by the GB. I haven't heard of that being an issue between Florida and the Bahamas, on the map Starlink used last year it was all the same region including the water between.
I wish it cost less but it is amazing technology and for now the only game in town.
Brazen Article
2001 Catalina 36 MKII
North East, MD
I have the second generation Starlink, a rectangle with motors in the base on a short pole. On the boat it aims almost straight up so I disabled the motors and changed the power supply to run off 12 volts. Those mods and eliminating the Starlink 120 volt router save a lot of power.
The regional roam plan started at $150 a month, then Elon decided to raise it to $165. As long as you are not moving over 10 mph it works whether motoring, sailing or stationary. Regional Roam covers the Bahamas now but everything is subject to the whim of Starlink, since it is a month to month deal they can change anytime.
There is a boat plan for $165 too, my understanding is if you travel out of a region on open ocean you can pay by the GB. I haven't heard of that being an issue between Florida and the Bahamas, on the map Starlink used last year it was all the same region including the water between.
I wish it cost less but it is amazing technology and for now the only game in town.
Brazen Article
2001 Catalina 36 MKII
North East, MD
#29
Main Message Board / Re: Winter projects
Last post by Diversion - November 20, 2024, 09:56:03 AMI ordered a new rudder this fall, removed the old rudder at haul out, so this winter I was hoping to drill the holes in the new rudder shaft to match the old rudder shaft...the new shaft is 3/8" shorter. The emergency tiller cap had to be cut off so I ordered a new one, which fits a little lower than the old one did. The question I have is, does the top tiller rest tight against the top rudder support under the aft seat hatch, or do I have some leeway here? I was hoping to make up the 3/8" by raising the cap, and pushing the rudder a little closer to the hull, (I had about 1/2 gap on the old rudder) to make up the difference. Here's a pic of the new and old rudder, I chose the non elliptical, Rudder Craft recommended this tuned rudder instead.
#30
Main Message Board / Re: MkII Fixed Portlight Repla...
Last post by Noah - November 19, 2024, 12:02:15 PMThe factory window (at least on MKI) had a bevel on the edge, to allow for more sealant "sticking area". Something to be considered if you are cutting your own acrylic. Also, the OEM windows were/are acrylic not polycarbonate.