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#41

Main Message Board / instrument cluster panel repai...

Last post by Pete G - April 18, 2024, 05:35:55 AM

The gauges and panel fell out while sailing at the end of last season (the silver plastic panel).  Temporary wood screws worked, but obviously, not a permanent solution.  After looking at the screw holes, I pulled the housing off to repair what looks like poor alignment of the screw holes at the factory.  I'd like to epoxy washers and nuts to the back of the panel so I could remove the gauges when needed (I replaced them, so all may need some tuning).  Any recommendations on augmenting the poor factory quality?

#42

Main Message Board / Re: OIl leak

Last post by Guenter - April 18, 2024, 12:56:44 AM

Wow - thanks for bringing that up. I would have not caught that - the remaining piece of thread on the pipe that broke off threads nicely into the 1/8" NPT female adapters I bought - could well be the pipe is already the wrong thread to begin with, as it does not look factory installed. Since the spec'd OD of the male NPT is bigger than the JIS/BSPT, the presumably 1/8" NPT pipe may have already "cut" a bigger thread into my engine block. Entirely possible I am afraid, the ODs of 10.3 and 9.7mm are very close so that the pipe probably formed 1/8 NPT into the block - by forming I mean displaced/cold formed versus cut. Not ideal and new leak potential.   

I now also ordered a 1/8 NPT female to 1/8 BSPT Male adapter - that should do it. Should be in the clear from here on out with my 1/8 NPT T-block adapter.
 
Also appreciate the rail/bracket advice. The adapters have a solid shoulder(hex) and the assembly will be significantly shorter than the original set up - I will go with that for now - if vibration remain an issue, I may divert to the flex hose and bracket solution.

I will be at the boat Sunday and investigate.

Thanks again

Guenter - Seaclypse #153
 

#43

Main Message Board / Re: Keel to Hull join flaking....

Last post by Jim Hardesty - April 17, 2024, 04:28:19 PM

The coolant in the bilge is there in the spring after winter.  None in the bilge during the season.  I've asked around and apparently its a known issue.  I guess over the hard winters the hoses/engine contract, and you get a small drip.  Over 6 months, and it being non freezing fluid it accumulates.

I go over the engine every spring and make sure the hose clamps are snug. Never an issue during the season.  It's about 2 cups.

Shamrock, a 2001, in 20 seasons has never lost any coolant into the bilge, summer or winter (that's Erie Pa winters).  2 cups isn't much, but it isn't normal.  If it were me, I'd look for the leak before it got to be a real problem.  Possible a crack in the expansion tank.  Does the cooling system hold pressure?
Jim

#44

Main Message Board / Re: Keel to Hull join flaking....

Last post by KWKloeber - April 17, 2024, 03:48:42 PM

@pbyrne

Whomever is giving you that answer about the coolant either

1. Doesn't know what they're talking about
or
2. Is intentionally feeding you BS.

Over 30 years, half of that on the hard over Buffalo winters I've never had a drop of coolant in the bilge in the spring. So, no it's not a known problem about Universals.

I tend to think the bad info is #1. because (even if it occurred as "they" claim due to contraction,) CLAMPS ALSO CONTRACT over the winter (greater than the rubber hoses) and therefore hoses connections become even tighter, not looser, during the winter. 

And, there's NO WAY a "drip" from such a "loose" hose connection due to contraction, not under pressure with cold coolant, would lose 2 cups.

The engine closed cooling system has something going on, somewhere, and it's fixable. Permanently.

#45

Main Message Board / Re: Keel to Hull join flaking....

Last post by pbyrne - April 17, 2024, 02:29:03 PM

Finally, does anyone know what the keel bedding is on a 2000? It would at least be nice to know what was used that could essentially rot!

Ask Warren Pandy at the factory.


Some have installed a pvc pipe tower at each nut to keep the nut inside dry from water in the bilge. I used 5200 to seal around the bolts and under the washers before nutting down.

Seems that it would be worthwhile to track down the source of in the bilge and eliminate the coolant?

The coolant in the bilge is there in the spring after winter.  None in the bilge during the season.  I've asked around and apparently its a known issue.  I guess over the hard winters the hoses/engine contract, and you get a small drip.  Over 6 months, and it being non freezing fluid it accumulates.

I go over the engine every spring and make sure the hose clamps are snug. Never an issue during the season.  It's about 2 cups.

#46

Main Message Board / Re: Headsets for communication...

Last post by pbyrne - April 17, 2024, 11:47:08 AM

Many years ago when my wife and I started sailing, we purchased a pair of wireless headsets at a boat show called "Marrige Savers".

We used them a few times then just started using hand signals and repeating what the other says in docking or anchoring situations. Problem solved. We gave the headsets away as a gag.

Makes sense.  But, as I said, I have both hands full, and she can't see me.

We've both been trained on and used hand signals for anchoring....with a boat that was all chain and a gypsy so you can stand up, use one hand to signal and use your foot, or hand remote to control the windlass.

In windy conditions, you need the boat to help retrieve, which means hand signals, which means standing up, in swell with no way to hang on, hands are full with rode/chain, then let go with one hand to signal, and try to hold on to the full weight of anchor/chain/rode, plus a sh!t ton of weeds in many cases.

Been there, done that, have the brusies to show for it! 

Calm conidtions I can manage by pulling the boat myself which eliminates the need for communications with the helm, so no problem.

#47

Main Message Board / Re: Deck scupper enlargement

Last post by simdim - April 17, 2024, 09:09:03 AM

My Plan was to drill 1" pilots in 3/4" plywood - attach that jig to the outside toe rail with the original hole on the bottom of the hole in the jig and drill it that way. I have to go to the boat to measure exactly how wide the toe rail is - all 1" or 7/8" carbide hole saws may be too shallow to go trough in one step.

I think I found the right hole saw for this job - https://www.homedepot.com/p/DIABLO-1-in-Carbide-Hole-Saw-with-2-3-8-in-Cutting-Depth-DHS1000CT/301697676

#48

Main Message Board / Re: Deck scupper enlargement

Last post by KWKloeber - April 17, 2024, 08:43:22 AM

[If you use a hole saw it's best to plug the old hole with a wood plug before drilling so the pilot drill on the hole saw works and the hole saw doesn't walk.
Jim

Hey Jim if you have that situation here's 3 easier outside-the-box hacks I use (plugging the hole is my last resort.)

Drill a hole in plywood for an external guide, and kneel or stand on it (at least until the new hole gets started.) Or affix it with double sided tape or whatever.
https://youtube.com/shorts/q-CzRZoC4GI?si=sSqRDRmIXzI_cfTQ

Use two saws, if the original hole is a nominal size:
https://youtube.com/shorts/HdKg3IooOB8?si=0PfI_xEPUGRliT5P

If the original hole is odd-size cut a larger hardwood hole and sand it down to the correct diameter for an arbor.
https://youtu.be/vOUfFaIJUqo?si=i34fdHsT_agcf5e9

#49

Main Message Board / Re: Deck scupper enlargement

Last post by Jim Hardesty - April 17, 2024, 07:26:11 AM

Rather than enlarging the holes have you considered opening up the scuppers, it's fairly common on other makes of boats. Cutting 45 degree angles into the scupper railing to the bottom of the hole would do it. That eliminates clogs and drains the deck much more quickly. You'd have to finish the cut ends of course but you'll have to do that to the enlarged holes as well.

That's the way my MKll is made.  I like the idea of drilling out the holes and installing a short pipe/tube to drain the water away from the hull.  That should reduce the black streaks from deck water running down the hull.  Somewhere that idea is posted here.  If you use a hole saw it's best to plug the old hole with a wood plug before drilling so the pilot drill on the hole saw works and the hole saw doesn't walk.
Hope that helps,
Jim

#50

Main Message Board / Re: Deck scupper enlargement

Last post by scgunner - April 17, 2024, 06:21:26 AM

Rather than enlarging the holes have you considered opening up the scuppers, it's fairly common on other makes of boats. Cutting 45 degree angles into the scupper railing to the bottom of the hole would do it. That eliminates clogs and drains the deck much more quickly. You'd have to finish the cut ends of course but you'll have to do that to the enlarged holes as well.