Messages

Checking the hoses for clogs is what I'd do. Did you try disconnecting the outlet hose at the engine end to see if it pumped fine?

The filter in the tank should be removed per the Critical Upgrades list.

Do you have a diagram on how you think the fuel bleed knob should be re-plumbed?

and verify the filter is removed from inside the fuel tank, the valve on the tank is all the way open and not clogged, and the hose from that valve to the Racor is not clogged.

Stu Jackson had a fuel starvation problem he traced to a ball check valve in the Racor housing where the fuel enters. I believe his post on the subject is listed in the 101 Topics. Maybe your problem is the check valve.

There's also a place called Aircraft Spruce that sells Facet pumps. Most locations are in the US, but there is one location in Canada.

No worries. Interesting their recommendation must be installed.

Who is your insurance company? There are propane fume detectors you can install in the cabin that sound an alarm to notify you that propane is leaking. Would they accept that?

If they're requiring you to bring your 36 year old boat up to current standards for the propane system, they may require the electrical system to be brought up to current standards next. It doesn't sound reasonable.

Are they looking for a valve that senses the flame and automatically shuts down when the flame is gone?

I took it off the boat and soaked it in Barnacle Busters premixed solution. Cleaned it like new. It says you can use it in place so I added an hour soak to my annual maintenance.

Which Oberdorfer? A -15 with its' 3/8" NPT ports will barely work.

Check the ID of the hoses to and from your HX are not clogged. Remove one of the end caps on your HX. If it looks like this photo it's time to clean it, and may be the source of your problem.

Check the ID of the injection nipple on the elbow of the exhaust riser with a drill bit. Be very careful not to drop the drill bit into the hose/muffler. If you can't stick at least a 3/8" drill bit in there easily, the ID needs to be opened up to let more water through.

Cliff, Per Ron's response, make sure you have steam and not something else. If it is steam, I had the exact same situation recently. After motoring for about 1 hour at 1800 rpm, steam would begin to appear from the raw water exhaust. Engine coolant temperature was fine. I have a 1987, with M25XP, 1/2" seacock for water inlet, and 5/8" hoses.

There was water exiting the discharge, but not enough water to cool the exhaust properly so the water turned to steam.

Check the thru hull is not clogged, the strainer is clean, and you have all the blades on the impeller.

Check that your hoses and HX are not clogged.

I changed to the Oberdorfer brand impeller. I found the blue Globe impellers didn't deliver as much flow.

Check that the injection nipple on the exhaust riser after the vented loop is not clogged. The ID should be around 7/16" to 1/2", but at least 3/8".

I changed my raw water pump from Oberdorfer N202M-15 to a N202M-16. In my opinion, and now experience, the -15 is too small for a M25XP.

Each of the steps improved water flow, and I no longer have any steam.

Hope this helps.

I just bought a N202M-16 a few weeks ago from Ken Kloeber who uses this site. He may be out of stock now too, but you could try emailing him or he might see this and respond.

I kept the original fixtures, but replaced the incandescent bulbs with LED bulbs. No problems so far.

I did buy from Catalina Direct. Valve pn Z2069, and tap pn Z3633.

I don't remember if I needed the tap.

At that time both were about $45. Today just the tap is $45. Ridiculous what's happened.

If you have the aqua lift muffler, it is in the locker under the head sink. Looking at the muffler on the bottom right corner you'll see a petcock or other small valve. It may not have been opened in a long time so open it carefully, and it may not shut properly. I replaced my original.