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Messages - Jon W

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 74
Main Message Board / Re: Bird removal
« on: July 25, 2022, 07:00:30 AM »
I had zero luck with the hawk. A couple slip neighbors have the owl, and one has a snake. They donít seem to do much either. What has helped a lot is putting spikes on top of the mast.

If the spikes caused the birds to go to the spreaders instead of the top of the mast, my next step was to add a single string of heavy fishing line ~1 inch above the centerline of the spreader from the shroud to the mast port and starboard.

Main Message Board / Re: Leaking Airmar knotmeter thru hull.
« on: July 14, 2022, 11:57:20 AM »
By spacer do you mean backing plate?

Main Message Board / Re: My alternator puked...
« on: July 10, 2022, 02:17:52 PM »
Noah, You can specify in your regulator program settings.

Main Message Board / Re: rigging of the boom lift
« on: July 04, 2022, 09:19:00 AM »
I have a boom kicker so mine is only a backup in case the boom kicker fails. To store it Iíve been putting a couple wraps around the backstay, under the triangle tang, then tie it to the port side of the split backstay where I can reach it if needed.

Main Message Board / Re: rigging of the boom lift
« on: July 04, 2022, 07:43:11 AM »
Generally speaking the boom topping lift is used to support the boom when the main sail is down or you are reefing the main. When sailing the boom topping lift should be off so the main can be properly trimmed.

Main Message Board / Re: rigging of the boom lift
« on: July 03, 2022, 04:02:31 PM »
Hi Becky, 1st thought is to check your main sail battens. Make sure they are all the way in the batten pocket and secured there.

Hi Kevin, Alex said it better than I. Currently I don't use the dinghy much when I'm in my slip. To avoid sun damage and added slip fees it's usually deflated, rolled up and stored below. While I'm underway I prefer it to be on the foredeck feeling it's more secure in case of rough weather or high following seas. When I'm at my destination, I store it on the davits which makes daily use easier, and deters theft (I hope).

Just got back from a short trip with roll up 9ft 2" Highfield with air floor tied to the foredeck for the first time. 2 straps from dinghy transom to center chainplates like Ron suggested, and 2 straps from dinghy towing D rings to pulpit, short pool noodles on the fwd end of the hand rails and on dinghy transom, and a 1 1/2" thick kneeling pad between deck and dinghy bow so the seat doesn't touch on the fwd hatch. Held fine in 16 knots, and some water over the bow. I use my whisker pole with a small triple block and tackle as a jib crane to raise and lower the dinghy off the foredeck into the water. Then I lead it to the back of the boat and store on my davits until I'm ready to leave, then put it back on the foredeck.

Main Message Board / Re: Windless article
« on: June 13, 2022, 11:00:10 PM »
I have an up/down switch hard wired at the helm, and an up/down wireless remote for my Maxwell windlass. The remote allows me to walk around the boat and works great for single handing. Plus no additional holes in the boat.

Main Message Board / Re: Adding a Roller Reefing Cleat
« on: June 13, 2022, 07:05:49 PM »
FWIW - Regarding the statement "don't trust a cam cleat", my other boat is a Prindle 16 I bought new in 1983. It's mainsheet is rigged with a Harken triple with a cam cleat. The jib sheets are rigged with a Port and Stbd Harken single each with a cam cleat. I've sailed that boat off and on for 30+ years both offshore in the Pacific Ocean, and in Mission Bay. Based on the effort I've needed to adjust the sails in various wind conditions, I believe the continuous loads are higher on my Prindle 16 than adjusting the headsail roller furler of my 1987 Catalina 34. Never had a problem with a cam cleat, and never felt unsafe (at least about the cam cleat :D). YBYC

Main Message Board / Re: Adding a Roller Reefing Cleat
« on: June 08, 2022, 02:54:00 PM »
FWIW - The outboard side of the cockpit coaming surface is ~ 20 degrees from vertical slope. Any water will run off and not pool around the fasteners. I don't see a need to pot the holes. Slightly countersink the holes, and use the Bed-Butyl Tape from Mainesail if you have it. The stuff is an excellent sealant. Like others have suggested, I would use fender washers for this application as well. As Ken said, YBYC.

Hi Jack, When I have these types of technical questions I also ask Warren Pandy of Catalina Yachts for his opinion. He has been an Engineering/Technical Rep for Catalina for quite a while, and has been very helpful in the past. I haven't spoken to him in about a year, but think he is still there. It wouldn't hurt to send a few of your photos to Warren and ask him for his opinion. The e-mail I have for him is In my experience, he generally responds within 1-3 days.

Include the year, whether MK 1 or 2 if the C36 has that, and hull number in the e-mail so he knows which flavor Catalina 36 you have.

Main Message Board / Re: High gas prices, who cares!
« on: May 27, 2022, 03:11:35 PM »
Diesel sold in California is considered ULSD (ultra low sulfur diesel), even at the fuel dock. I use Pri-D fuel treatment to address ULSD, fuel stability, injectors, etc.

Main Message Board / Re: Propane Hose Touches The Stove Bottom
« on: May 26, 2022, 05:29:17 PM »
Hi Ron, I hadn't paid attention to the hose on the galley side either. Just happened to notice when I was cleaning. Whether it's heat or chafe the hose shouldn't touch. Thought it would be a good idea to give everyone a heads up.

Main Message Board / Propane Hose Touches The Stove Bottom
« on: May 24, 2022, 05:20:45 PM »

My short boat trip got cancelled (for non boat related reasons), so I decided to do a thorough cleaning of the inside to burn off frustration. While cleaning under the stove I heard the propane hose rub on the bottom of the stove. I looked back there with a mirror and noticed when the stove is locked in the static/vertical position, the propane hose touches the bottom of the stove as it goes vertical to the fitting near the top of the stove. This is a safety issue to me, so I made an "L" shaped guide and velocroed it in place to give the hose a 1/2" gap.

Your boats may be different, but it's worth a look behind the bottom of the stove with a mirror.

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