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Messages - Jon W

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Main Message Board / Re: Alternator upgrade from Catalina direct.
« on: March 06, 2022, 07:48:00 AM »
Regarding having mercy on the v-belt - The Balmar external regulator allows you to monitor alternator and house bank temperature, in addition to having several programmable settings to safely and efficiently get the most out of your charging system. On the MC-614 one of the settings is called belt manager. I've set mine to b-4 and do not have a problem with my v-belts getting eaten up. You can also add the small engine mode feature Stu suggested which is another way to manage v-belt wear. Proper belt tension is also very important.

FWIW - I added the external regulator kit on a L-N 105A that the PO installed prior to 2015. The alternator output connects directly to my 450ah house bank. I also have a 85ah reserve battery charged via a Xantrex Digital Echo Charger.

Main Message Board / Re: Scupper Hoses
« on: March 05, 2022, 11:59:27 PM »
Last I read he was going to get rid of the aft water tank and put a new fuel tank there. Put the holding tank where the fuel tank used to be, and add a new water tank under the v-berth.

Main Message Board / Re: Scupper Hoses
« on: March 05, 2022, 01:07:55 PM »
Hi Patches. This doesnt necessarily apply to you, but If I were going to get rid of the aft water tank and replace the holding tank with a new water tank, Id put a larger fuel tank where the aft water tank was and design pull out shelves and add a water maker where the fuel tank used to be.

Main Message Board / Re: Scupper Hoses
« on: March 02, 2022, 07:50:16 PM »
Theres no wire in the 147. Warmed all around the end of the hose with a heat gun and it slid on easily.

Main Message Board / Re: Scupper Hoses
« on: March 02, 2022, 06:10:54 PM »
I used Trident #147 Marine Bilge and Baitwell hose, 1 1/2" ID (147-1126). I needed a heat gun to attach it to the 90 deg elbow hose barbs on the thru hull. Make sure your hose clamps are on the hose before you attach to the hose barb.

I don't think any of the PO's of my boat had taken advantage of this forum or the Critical Upgrades list. When I bought the boat in 2015, I had a lot of catching up to do from changing the brass pulley idler pins, to gooseneck and boom cap, filter screen inside the fuel tank, to the wiring harness and the ammeter gauge. All Critical Upgrades done now.

Main Message Board / Engine Control Panel Tach and Gauge Lights To LED
« on: March 01, 2022, 02:57:51 PM »
I saw on another thread some questions about LED PNs, and thought Id pass along what Ive tried. I just changed my 1987 MK 1 cockpit engine control panel tachometer and gauge lights to LED. The tach, temp, and fuel gauges are all 1987 era Teleflex brand. The voltage gauge is also Teleflex, but was bought new to replace the ammeter in 2015.

For reference the incandescent light bulbs were 1893 for the tach, and 194 for the temp and fuel gauges. The newer voltage gauge was different and had a PC 194. You cant change the bulb on this, you have to replace the whole assembly.

I purchased LED bulbs and a base socket from The PNs I used are as follows:

The tachometer LED bulb
BA9S-RHP5: BA9s LED Boat and RV Light bulb 5SMD LED Tower BA9s Retrofit 96 Lumens red.

The temperature, fuel, and voltage gauge LED bulbs
194-RCOB1W:  194 LED bulb COB LED T3.25 Miniature Wedge Base 135 Lumens red.

The voltage gauge PC 194 base socket replacement
T3.25S-TW: 168/194/921 (T3-1/4) Twist Lock Wedge Base Socket T3.25 Socket. (I didnt check to see if this base socket would fit in the older gauges).

Main Message Board / Re: Engine Gauge Lights
« on: March 01, 2022, 02:36:33 PM »
karista - When replacing my gauge and tach lights to LED, I found that my voltage gauge had a PC 194 assy. You can't replace just the bulb. I found a 194 base socket that fit my newer Teleflex voltage gauge on The PN is T3.25S-TW: 168/194/921 (T3-1/4) Twist Lock Wedge Base Socket T3.25 Socket.

I didn't check to see if it fit the older temp and fuel gauges, but it's only a $1.

Technically using a basic torque formula, the length of the wrench will affect the amount of torque produced at the nut if you apply the same force at the end of each. However the wrench will still click, or the pointer will still point at the set value of the wrench. You just apply less force to the end of the extended wrench (which is why you're using it in the first place). Be careful not to damage your wrench with the pipe, and be careful not to overdrive the torque you're after because of the cheater bar/pipe.

Main Message Board / Re: Solar, LiFePo4, Inverter, 34MkII - What I did it
« on: January 31, 2022, 04:57:27 PM »
Medved, If a small generator solves your issue, thats great. If you are considering adding solar panels in the future, there are more affordable options depending on your need.

By knowing my typical daily energy use, and the charging period I sail in I installed a solar panel system consisting of 2 Renogy 175W 19.5V 8.98A flexible monocrystalline solar panels, 2 Victron Energy SmartSolar MPPT 75/15 charge controllers, a Victron Energy 10 meter Smart Battery Sense Temp/Voltage sensor, stranded cable with MC4 connectors, and all the fittings, boxes, switches, fuses, etc.. The cost was ~$1,200.

On a November trip I dropped the anchor early on a Tuesday morning and raised the anchor on Friday around noon. Weather was mixed overcast, partial sun, and sunny over the 4 days. The solar panels kept my batteries fully charged for the whole time with no assist from the engine/alternator.

There is a downside to not having to run the diesel to top off the batteries. Cold showers by day three.  :shock:

FWIW I have LED navigation, anchor, and interior lighting, a CPT Autopilot, electric windlass, but no AC. I have a small portable inverter to charge my laptop. Batteries consist of a house bank with 4 T105's, and a reserve that's a Group 24 charged via a digital echo charger. I use ~60A a day, with the fridge consuming the majority. I read that a good guide for the charging period I plan to sail in is 5.5 hours per day.

Main Message Board / Re: Solar, LiFePo4, Inverter, 34MkII - What I did it
« on: January 31, 2022, 11:24:05 AM »
Medved, Robert has a very nice system that may be more than you're looking for to cover weekends. Like Jim said, it depends on how you use your boat. What is your amp usage per day at anchor, and what do you have for batteries?

Main Message Board / Re: Rudder reference sender install mk1.5
« on: January 31, 2022, 11:03:34 AM »
Congratulations on a clean install. Very nice work.

For the spinnaker crane get a longer one than what's up there. I've heard of several people having troubles because it's too short.

Some items I haven't seen mentioned yet you may want to consider -

add courtesy flag lines, pulleys, and snap shackles on both spreaders.
LED spreader lights (I have Lunasea LLB472W-21-10 low power and it's like daylight at night).
if your mast is painted repair the paint and corrosion at the fittings.
add extra rivets to the existing conduit inside the mast.
fittings for Lazy Jacks.
check/replace mast boot.
since your replacing the stemhead fitting, think about a larger bow roller for the new style anchors.

Main Message Board / Re: winter sucks
« on: January 28, 2022, 11:16:04 AM »
Nice to hear from you mainesail. Hope your recovery is going well.

Main Message Board / Re: Teak Grate in Head
« on: January 27, 2022, 10:22:33 AM »
It took a few years, but finally got around to joining the teak grate in the shower club. Thanks Susan for the advice and information.

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