Messages

Updated, I guess it was reposted and link changed
 Video is about LiFePo4 batteries

https://youtu.be/TkyF976hAxo?si=SVk6gYhBz3uhXrw5

Sorry to hear about this!  We remember the boat from Worton Creek Marina.  I sent you a PM as I am interested in some of your items.  Thank you.

How about this one MSI HY664

https://marinepartssource.com/6-x-6-x-4-air-divider-hose-y-msi-hy664

https://www.suremarineservice.com/Cool/Air-Divider-Hose-Y-Wye/HY664.html

3rd season no issues

Ken,

Problem is with 4 larger Bolts that hold quadrant together

Boat is used almost every weekend during the season on Chesapeake Bay 1 or 2 longer trips if that is narrowing it down - I'm definitely not interested in temporary solution if "temporary" is less then 8y of my type of use.

Resin with graphite was my initial choice and stuck quadrant made me look again at other options .

When looking closer at LogoFreaks quadrant picture I see what appears to be an evidence of drilling out stuck stainless bolts in the aft half - interesting

There is nothing to split or cut off.  Bolts go into the threaded holes in the quadrant itself.

I have walk thru 1.5 with rudder play – bottom of the rudder moves about ¼ inch and I can feel it while sailing. "Play" appears to be in the bottom tube
I'm aware of 2 possible fixes – epoxy and mylar film
I almost decided to go with epoxy but My quadrant has at least 4 thru bolts "corrosion welded" to aluminum quadrant and did not budge when encouraged with 12 inch driver. (I applied some pb blaster but I did not have time for longer soak)
I'm going to give it another try next weekend possibly with some heat applied and an impact wrench possibly beaker bar. I would applicate feedback from anyone with experience in this area.
My big concern is snapping these bolts and opening whole fresh can of worms.

Above makes me reconsider mylar shim approach.
Catalina instructions do not mention how to insert mylar strips into the rudder tube past the stuffing box packing?
Should I attempt to shim it from the bottom instead?
2 inch strips or wider?
What is the longevity of this approach?
Again any tips and suggestions from successful shimming operations are welcome.

Link to a troubleshooting guide from suremarineservice.com

https://www.suremarineservice.com/site/PDFs/manuals/Stove-Repair.pdf

I hope this helps

Unfortunately parts are close to unobtanium status

With 3 x 116 Ah (@ 20h)   I have  348 Ah and can use 70% without killing the battery life.

Be ready to upgrade your charging setup,  120A charger would be desirable.

Firefly AGM batteries are not affected by PSOC and 3 of these will fit in C34 battery compartment

If you decide to replace what is in the boat take a look at Trudesign Seacocks  ( with load bearing collar). I personally find these much preferable to what Forespar is offering.
I have replaced every original seacock on my boat with Trudesign except  shower/head combo where I used Forespar 93.  After few seasons I can tell you my only Foresparr 93 will be replaced by Trudesign for sure.
As a added bonus Trudesign does not call for any lubrication.

These connectors look a lot like standard DB9 -easy to find

I would consider DT series connectors instead or even a terminal block