Join the C34 Association Today!
[C34 Home] [C34Tech Notes] [C34 Tech Wiki] [Join!]
Please login or register.
Advanced search  


Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - Breakin Away

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 25
Main Message Board / Re: Catalina Smile
« on: January 18, 2020, 01:11:07 PM »
Crescent 1/2" Drive 6 Point Deep SAE Socket 1-1/8" - CDDS66N
I have that one too, but it's not deep enough to reach the nuts without "bottoming out" on my keel bolts. Use whatever works for you...

Main Message Board / Re: Catalina Smile
« on: January 17, 2020, 08:17:38 PM »
On a separate but related subject, I re-torque my keel bolts while on the hard every year. 107 ft-lb, free loaner torque wrench from AutoZone, and a 1-1/8" extra deep socket bit with extension and pivot attachment for the hard-to-reach nuts. It's so easy to do that there's no reason not to have it on annual PM:

Main Message Board / Re: C34MkII fuel tank maintenance
« on: January 16, 2020, 08:10:35 PM »
Hi all, sorry about the delay responding. For some reason, I didn't get email notification of the responses.

The "project" is pretty much complete. My only reason for trying to get into the top of the tank was to pump out the ~5 gallons of leftover fuel for inspection and storage over the winter in a verified clean jerry can. Given the difficulty getting access, I drained it through the hose by gravity/siphon. The fuel looks real clean, so I don't feel any need to remove or open up the tank.

A few responses to your comments:

Fortunately, I have no diesel odor (even after pulling out the wood panel) or other sign of permeation of the tank. No need to replace it. The panel will go back on after I bring a vacuum down to suck way any dust around the tank.

I am also curious what is under and forward of the smaller "cabinet" for my tank. There must have been some reason they made this design change, but until I can dig around again back there, I don't know what's behind the fiberglass.

I do have two deck plates in the port cockpit locker, both located at the forward end of the locker. I've used the fuel shut off valve several times (though more recently I use a pinch tool to shut off the fuel closer to my Racor pump when changing the filter). The second inspection port probably covers the fuel gauge sender, though as I recall it is not well centered on the opening. If I ever wanted to get it out, I would probably have to unscrew the tank and shim it a bit to get the sender centered. I do not recall seeing a third port further aft, like Jon W shows in his picture.

In the springtime, I am probably going to pump some fuel though the rubber hose into the tank through the dip tube. Doing this at a high rate of speed may loosen any stuff that may have coated the hose. Then I'll pump it back out again and inspect to see what's there. Rinse and repeat. But so far, everything looks pretty clean except for a little solid residue in my Racor filter (which is why I'm inspecting my fuel so carefully).

Main Message Board / Re: Antifreeze: Which type is best?
« on: January 16, 2020, 07:49:08 PM »
Is this it?  (from the 101 Topics)

Winterizing an Engine on the Hard (Thanks to Maine Sail) - NEVER connect a hose to your raw water pump inlet - NEVER!!!
Hi Stu, thanks for trying, but that's winterization (which is pretty much the same thing that I do, except I put the bucket int the aft berth).

I thought I saw a video of a flushing procedure for the freshwater coolant side of the motor, where Rod had a circulation pump sitting in front of the motor. I poked around his YouTube channel which you linked, but I still can't find it. Maybe it was someone else's video.

Anyway, I'd love to hear what others do for flushing and rinsing of the freshwater side, as I haven't found much on this topic in my searches.

Main Message Board / Re: Antifreeze: Which type is best?
« on: January 15, 2020, 08:30:08 PM »
I still havent replaced my AF, but hoping to soon, so Im reopening this topic.

What is the recommended flushing procedure? Just DI water? Rydlyme solution? Commercial automotive flushing products?
I will definitely change antifreeze this winter, so I'm back to this topic with additional questions.

First, what is the recommended flushing material? (as asked above) Should I rinse with water before/after the flush?

Second, I'm still open to recommended coolant brands. I really want something easy to find, because Murphy guarantees that if I ever need to buy more, I will be in a very remote place with few options.

Finally, my motor is winterized and boat yard water turned off for the winter. Is there a way I could do the drain/rinse/flush/rinse/refill without running the motor? I have a really nice Little Giant Pony impeller pump which could circulate everything through the motor without it running. I assume that if I remove the thermostat that the liquid would also flow into the areas around the cylinders. Is there any need for the motor to be heated up, or can I just use the impeller pump to recirculate everything though the cooling system? If so, where is the best place to connect the pump to recirculate everything? (Note that I have an M35B, which seems to have very different hose routing from earlier Universal motors. Some of Stu's recommended draining techniques do not work with this motor because hose interconnects are in the wrong place.)

I thought I had once seen something on Mainesail's website demonstrating a flushing technique with an external recirculation pump, but I cannot find it on either his old or new website. Could someone post a link for this if it's still there?

Main Message Board / Re: Catalina Smile
« on: January 15, 2020, 07:31:55 PM »
I'm a little puzzled by the second picture. Aside from looking like it was taken in Australia (which I can ignore), the crack looks to be much lower than the joint between the keel and keel stub, where the Catalina smile typically occurs.

Main Message Board / Re: C34MkII fuel tank maintenance
« on: January 11, 2020, 07:09:42 PM »
This Catalina Direct listing seems to explain the history:

It is reported by Catalina that this aluminum fuel tank was installed at the factory beginning 2/5/2004. But it is also reported that it replaces earlier plastic fuel tank and even earlier aluminum fuel tanks if the tank was installed aft, to port of the aft berth.

I'll have to measure the tank dimensions for comparison with my opening, but it seems my fuel tank nook has much less vertical clearance (floor much higher) than the one that Dave Spencer showed. Looking a Jon W's new tank, I doubt I could make that one fit because of the fill port on top. But it looks like CD has their tank with the fill port on the aft end, which might fit. I don't need to replace my tank, but nevertheless it's interesting to see these differences between the different boats.

Here are some pictures for comparison:


Dave Spencer

Jon W

Catalina Direct's current tank offering

Main Message Board / Re: C34MkII fuel tank maintenance
« on: January 11, 2020, 04:30:11 PM »
I finally made it down to the boat today and succeeded at removing the side panel (3 screws along the bottom), so it's time for an update to point out a significant difference in my boat vs. the others mentioned here:

I HAVE A PLASTIC FUEL TANK. I assume that Catalina switched over to this at some point, because I can't imagine why the tank would have been changed out. Does anyone else have this? If so, is it before or after my MkII #1535? Please let me know what you have.

Note the pictures. There is NO WAY I can get to the gauge cover to remove it from the aft berth - I'd have to remove the covering wood(?) in the cockpit locker to get to the top of the fuel tank. It's just too tight a fit (see picture). So I can't use the fuel pump that I purchased to drain the tank like Jim Hardesty suggested (but he's got #1570, so did Catalina switch back to the older design?). Instead of pumping, I pulled the hose off the Racor inlet port and gravity-drained it into a jerry can. I got about 5.5 gallon out of it, which is exactly what my fuel gauge said I should have based on the prior calibration that I posted last year. Since that calibration assumed the rated capacity of 25 gal, pretty much confirms that my actual capacity is 25 gal with this apparently different tank.

Also, comparing my picture to the ones posted by Dave Spencer and Jon W, it's clear that my tank is mounted higher above the floor (greater head pressure so boat can run without lift pump?), and the overall enclosure is shorter because it does not extend the entire length of the aft berth - the enclosure stops about a foot short of the forward wall of the berthing area. This tank is a much tighter fit both vertically and horizontally, which eliminates good access from the aft berth. I can't even see how I could remove it if I wanted to, because the mounting brackets are blocked by hoses and other stuff.

Main Message Board / Re: Mk II gas storage
« on: January 11, 2020, 04:18:51 PM »
I keep my 1 gal plastic gas can on the cockpit sole under the helm cover, just forward of the binnacle/cockpit table. The cover protects it from UV and rain, and any vapors heavier than air would just waft out the transom under the helm seat. (With my can, there are no vapor emissions, since the can expands and contracts with temperature, which it would not do if it leaked.)

Main Message Board / Re: C34MkII fuel tank maintenance
« on: December 30, 2019, 09:08:55 PM »
Guys : Jim is saying that on a MKII the aft cabin panels are interlocked just the opposite of the MKI (starbd first and then aft). 
On the MKI there are two lengths of panel screws.  Just make sure that you don't use the longer screws for the aft panel or you might screw a hole in the aft water tank!!

Just use a "heads-up" when taking things apart and note differences!!    :thumb: 
On the subject of noting differences, the panel on my MkII are not like Jim's. The side panel overlaps the aft panel slightly. It's close enough that it looks like it could go either way depending on the order you put in the panels, and/or how precisely the panels are aligned. (i.e., if one panel is allowed to "sag" a bit before the screws are tightened, then it sticks out a little and may lock the other one in)

I have not actually removed my side panel yet, but that's what I saw when I went back there:

Main Message Board / Re: C34MkII fuel tank maintenance
« on: December 23, 2019, 11:13:54 AM »
Did you put the vent back in place or the whole "wall?"  I took my wall off many years ago, but put it back with only three or four of the twelve screws...
My wall is held in place by only 3 or 4 screws along the bottom. There is a fiddle that is molded into the top ceiling liner that locks in the top edge. (Perhaps this is an "improvement" made in the MkII boats?) There is also some teak trim piece that locks in the aft edge. So the only way to get the panel out is to pull out at the front edge, where the 1/4" protrusion of the A/C vent prevents getting it out.

If the whole thing was held in by 12 screws, with no other molded things holding it in, then I could probably pull out from the aft side and work around the A/C vent. But right now it's constrained on three of four edges, so removing the bottom screws is not good enough to get it out.

Main Message Board / Re: C34MkII fuel tank maintenance
« on: December 22, 2019, 04:51:01 PM »
I finally made it to the boat today and planned to remove the wooden panel to expose the fuel tank. After getting all the stored junk out of the way and removing all the screws, I discovered that my A/C vent grill protrudes far enough from the front wall to prevent removing the panel. I unscrewed it briefly, but separating it from the vent hose required tools that I didn't have available, so I put it back in place so I wouldn't misplace the screws.

NOTHING on a boat is ever a easy as it seems.

Main Message Board / Re: C34MkII fuel tank maintenance
« on: December 07, 2019, 07:00:20 PM »
Jim : With a MKII you can do the same!! 
Just disconnect the inlet fuel hose to the Racor.  Put that hose in to a mason jar and turn on the key switch (battery power ON) and go to the glow plug (spring loaded) position for 45+? seconds.  Enough to get all of the fuel out of the line and let the "old bottom" fuel fill and pump into the mason jar! 

A thought   :clap
I'm coming back to this topic after a couple of months of working on other stuff. My fuel tank is down to about 5 gallons (based on the fuel gauge calibration that I posted elsewhere), and I am preparing to drain it for the winter like Maine Sail recommends. But I am a bit confused by your recommendation here. Isn't the lift pump downstream from the Racor filter? If so, disconnecting the fuel inlet to the Racor should allow the tank to gravity drain into the Mason jar without the pump running. A Mason jar would be fine for taking a sample (though I'm not sure why this sample would look any different from what's in the plastic water separation cup). In my case, I'll need something a little larger than a Mason jar to drain the whole tank.

It's been a little while since I looked over the boat, but I recall seeing something that indicated it would be difficult to for me to remove the tubing to the Racor filter, so I plan to attach a hose to the petcock under the water separation cup and drain the tank through there. I'm not going to try to drain the filter dry, because I don't like creating air pockets in the system. I plan to keep the end of the drain hose a few inches above the Racor filter so the fuel flow will stop before the Racor starts to empty.

Main Message Board / Re: Water Heater Question
« on: November 14, 2019, 05:12:39 PM »
I don't think that age of the check valve is a negative here. Ken said that the older ones bolted together and were pressure rated. At some point Shurflo changed the design to a heat-welded one. Not sure when that change was made, but your 32 year old one might be better than the newer ones. Does yours bolt together, and allow disassembly to clean the flapper?

Main Message Board / Re: Water Heater Question
« on: November 14, 2019, 04:54:49 PM »
The density of water at 100C is 4% lower than at 20C. The water in a 6 gallon tank will expand by a quart in volume, putting pressure on hoses, barbs, valves, and pump. How much pressure depends on the elasticity and volume of those peripheral components, virtually all of which will be at ambient temperature because the water isn't flowing.

The density of water at 77C (engine temperature) is 2.5% lower than at 20C. The water in a 6 gallon tank will expand by 0.6 quart in volume. That's still significant expansion, and could test the limits of the check valve. Bursting is definitely less likely than using the electric heater, but not sure I'd say it's impossible.

What is the pressure rating of the heat-welded version of the check valve?

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 25