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Messages - Breakin Away

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Main Message Board / Re: Plumbing of hot water heater in MkII models
« on: November 07, 2019, 08:45:12 PM »

I had looked for the plumbing plan before, but never found it. Now I see that the heater is downstream from the pump, in other words, the pump pushes water into the heater instead of pulling water out of it.

My 16k BTU unit is also under the V-berth (with very short ducts to berth area and salon, and a long duct to aft berth). I love it there, because it uses otherwise worthless space and it puts the most air where we sleep and spend our time. Noise is not an issue at all. In our install, we did not lose the drawer under the V-berth.

Main Message Board / Plumbing of hot water heater in MkII models
« on: November 07, 2019, 07:52:02 PM »
Quick question:

In the plumbing from the water tanks to pump to the faucet(s), is the hot water heater upstream of the pump (heater between tanks and pump) or downstream of the pump (pump between tanks and heater)?

I will be winterizing tomorrow evening, and the location of the water heater in the plumbing schematic will impact how I do it.

FWIW, I've seen the various posts and blogs that say to install a bypass of the hot water heater, but I haven't done it yet because the needed fittings are impossible to reach in my installation.

Yes, all this sounds very familiar. :( Now I have something to worry about. Hopefully the winter will be long  enough that I'll forget about it by next spring.  :wink:

Main Message Board / Re: Antifreeze: Which type is best?
« on: November 04, 2019, 08:07:11 AM »
I still havenít replaced my AF, but hoping to soon, so Iím reopening this topic.

What is the recommended flushing procedure? Just DI water? Rydlyme solution? Commercial automotive flushing products?

Main Message Board / Re: C34MkII fuel tank maintenance
« on: October 01, 2019, 07:50:12 PM »
About 1/16Ē thick hard layer across the entire bottom of the tank. Soaked it for days with a 1 to 1 mixture of Simple Green and water. Then used plastic scraper to peel it off the bottom. Whole process was just under 2 weeks. Then it leaked.  :shock:
Reminds me of people who have old cars and switch from dino oil to synthetic. The synthetic oils dissolves all the gunk that was plugging the cracking seals, and ends up leaking.

Main Message Board / Re: C34MkII fuel tank maintenance
« on: October 01, 2019, 07:21:24 PM »
Wow, hard to believe that you had that much in your tank and didn't see anything come through the Racor.

I had seen MaineSail's blog on this topic before, but had forgotten how powerful it was. I might try draining my tank at layup this year and storing the fuel in jerry cans, then decanting/filtering back in next year. Previously I would run down my fuel through the season and top off before winter layup to avoid condensation. But that means my fuel is already 6 months old when I launch. So, just to try something different, I might leave the tank empty and top off with fresh fuel at the start of the season.

Main Message Board / Re: C34MkII fuel tank maintenance
« on: October 01, 2019, 12:02:28 PM »
FWIW, I replace my Racor filter every year. I've never seen even a drop of water in my Racor bowl. But I do see a little bit of brown stuff there occasionally. I'd like everything to be pristine, so now that my tank is down to about 6 gallons in it I am considering draining it to inspect the fuel (or the tank, if there was an inspection port).

I usually fill the tank every winter to avoid "breathing" in the headspace and condensation that comes with it. That has apparently worked well because I don't ever have any water. But there is a little bit of stuff that I'd like to completely eradicate.

If you're way up north you may have a less hostile environment.

Main Message Board / C34MkII fuel tank maintenance
« on: October 01, 2019, 07:10:26 AM »
I'd like to consider doing some cleaning/maintenance on my MkII (model year 2001) fuel tank, and would appreciate some guidance for those of you who have done this before. How do you access the tank? It seems like might be glassed in on top, with only a couple screw-off ports in the port locker. I know that one of the ports covers the on-off valve from the dip tube. Is there a way to remove the dip tube?

Does the tank have any inspection ports installed at the factory? Is there a way to get to them without cutting apart the locker? Is there a side panel in the aft berth that gives any better access? What is the tank made of?

It seems like the fuel fill port is not a straight drop into the tank, so you can't insert a dip stick or pump-out wand into the tank. How else do you empty the tank?

Main Message Board / Re: Tech Wiki Login Problem (continued)
« on: September 01, 2019, 09:02:33 PM »
Seven months have passed, and I am still unable to log into the Wiki to make contributions.

I have reached out to Dave Sanner, and hope that he is able to fix the problem.

Was this discussed at the April Officers' meeting? I do not see any direct reference to it in the minutes.

Main Message Board / Re: Certificate of Inspection--Sister Vessels
« on: August 03, 2019, 12:04:32 PM »
My boat was already documented when I purchased her (no coastwise, no fishery). I need to have it revised if I ever take paying passengers, which means paying all over again.

Even though the boat was already documented, there were no doc numbers anywhere on the hull. I adhered vinyl numbers inside the hull above the exhaust exit, and brushed some clear epoxy over them.

Main Message Board / Re: What's this?
« on: August 02, 2019, 08:54:25 PM »

It's Racor restriction indicator -  basically a vacuum gauge on the back side of your primary filter to show when it's time to replace because it's plugged.  It works like a dragging needle vacuum gauge and shows the highest vacuum its seen after being reset. "Theoretically" when the indicator hits red it's time, but I don't know how true that is for our diesels.  A dragging needle gauge is much more useful.
Due to restricted space, my MkII boat has a similar Racor housing, although my spin-on filter is R15P. I recall someone once posted the source and model of a dragging needle vacuum gauge, but I'm having a hard time finding it now. Could someone please re-post the info, or spoon feed me a link? Also, are there generally any restriction on the orientation of the gauge (vertical/horizontal)? Space is real tight down there.

Main Message Board / Re: Certificate of Inspection--Sister Vessels
« on: August 02, 2019, 08:51:35 PM »
Related question:

To take up to 6 paying passengers with an OUPV license, the vessel must have a coastwise endorsement on its USCG documentation. To do this on a boat like ours, I believe that a "facts of build" letter is needed from the manufacturer, and then I believe you need to redo the documentation for ~$300. For those of you who have done this, can you describe how you went about getting the letter from Catalina?

Main Message Board / Re: Prospective Owner Questions
« on: June 09, 2019, 03:15:13 PM »
My ST4000 autopilot failed on my maiden voyage after taking ownership. I disassembled the wheel mechanism and the belt was shredded where it makes the tight wrap around the motor sprocket. I think this is common if left unused for a few years.

Raymarine has discontinued the belt for the original ST4000, but perfectly fine replacement belts are readily available on ebay. I bought two so I'd have a spare. It is a very easy fix:

Main Message Board / Re: Urgent: Sourcing a new strut
« on: April 28, 2019, 06:08:01 PM »
By the way, I applied my insurance company's prop allowance toward a Flexofold prop. Prop was ordered Tuesday, and arrived Friday. So AFAIK, all parts are here (strut, shaft, prop, packing box).

I looked at a few of the flexible coupler options described here, but decided to let them just do a like-for-like replacement on that part (one-piece solid steel coupler). I did't want to complicate things for the yard too much beyond what I've already done with the unfamiliar prop design.

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