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A guy named Dennis Igarashi used to work for Seward. When they closed, he continued selling the harness upgrade kits.

My information is from 2015, he may have retired by now. His phone number was 1-626-374-6422. His email address was digarashi@earthlink.net

I bought it, and returned it. Not worth the money. Take the time and make your own. Direct wire from the panel to the engine, use tinned stranded wire, quality heat shrink terminals, and a good crimper. You won't be sorry.

As Jim and others have said, when you remove and look at the chainplates if they're corrosion free with no obvious damage I wouldn't change them. I would do a dye penetrant inspection of each chainplate. New t-bolts, turnbuckles, and wire measurements will address the small dimensional difference you've found.

Before you loosen the tie rods in the salon, mark the threads where the last nut was to make putting everything back together easier. I took photo's and wrote down the number of threads showing for each one. Re-bed the chainplates with Bed-It-Butyl tape from Mainesails website. Re-bed on the outside only, do not seal the inside so if you have a leak you know right away.

My 2 cents FWIW -
- The crane at the masthead is marginal size. I had a custom longer one made to move the spinnaker halyard farther away from the mast.
- The upper, lower tangs, and clevis should be removed and looked at closely. There's likely crevice corrosion under the washers after 20+ years.
- Check the masthead sheaves for wear. I replaced mine.
- I had a new toppping lift made even though I don't need one. Cheap insurance if my BoomKicker were to fail.
- The stemhead fitting is prone to cracking (on the MK1 anyway). I had a custom one made with continuous thickness of 3/8" as part of a proper
   custom double bow roller. I also added a link to raise the furler drum to avoid a clash when retrieving the anchor.
- If you're considering adding a bimini, or if you bump your head, raise the triangle connecting the split backstay. I raised it, and increased the
  material thickness. If you will add solar panels to the bimini, be careful how much you raise the triangle so you leave room for future panels.
- Check the pins holding the upper and lower wire/t-bolt's to the chainplate. My lower pins were undersized.
- Check the backstay chainplates as well.
- Check that the internal conduit is still securely fastened to the mast. Consider adding a scond run for future for electronics, lights, etc.
- If you want a whisker pole in the future, add a T-track and associate hardware to the mast.
- Add Lazy Jacks while you're up there climbing around.
- Consider changing the double fairlead under the traveler to a triple.
- Check the boom gooseneck to see if it's been upgraded to a pin instead of a cotter pin. May not be a MK2 issue.
- Check the internal outhaul is a 10:1 advantage. May not be a MK2 issue.

"I didn't replace them" refers to the chainplates only. I did not replace the chainplates after the dye penetrant showed no issues.

Yes; I replaced all wire rigging with 5/16", which means I upsized the lowers to 5/16" along with a bunch of other improvements.

John, are you looking for comments on your chainplate question only? Do you want suggestions on other areas to check a C34 with old rigging?

My standing rigging was original when I bought my 1987. I did a dye penetrant inspection on the chainplates. They were fine so I didn't replace them. Are you changing the chainplates because of age, or do you see something?

I mounted the antenna on the bimini. Coax goes through a transition box mounted over a hole in the cockpit coaming where a PO had mounted the autopilot control head. Coax runs along the overhead through the port cockpit locker, head cabinet, navigation station cabinet to the AIS mounted on a panel I installed.

Dan, FWIW Don Casey's rule of thumb is 1lb of propane will last 1 person 1 week cooking 3 meals a day.

Same pump I posted a photo of earlier in this thread. I think it's what you're comfortable with. Brand new pumps are $325 and up. A rebuild kit is around $90. Buy from a reputable source not just best price.

Ken, it's a 3/8" npt. With Oberdorfer cast into the cover like Ron described, maybe it is the original from 1987?

Ken, I'm not sure. I found this behind the port salon cushion shortly after buying the boat. Could have been something a PO picked up as a spare, but I thought it was the original. Now that I dug it out I might as well refurb it.

Thanks, somewhere along the line mine was changed to an N202m-15. Would make more sense to install a  -16 since the hoses are 5/8", but it works.

Isn't the N202M the replacement for the 202M? Any idea what's different between them? Thanks for the help.

Oberdoerfer N202M either-15 (3/8"npt inlet and outlet), or -16 (1/2" npt inlet and outlet).

I made a 2 cylinder propane locker and have a write-up with photo's in the Tech WIKI you're welcome to look at for ideas. It holds an 11lb tank for the galley 2 burner stove, and a 5lb tank for my bbq on the cockpit rail.

Correct.

It is rare, but possible for that small diameter "nipple" to get clogged from debris exiting the HX. Easy way to check is remove the hose from the nipple and poke something through it.

Welcome, and good luck with your new to you old boat.