Messages

Yes, and it will look like the photo I posted.

Dan, when I bought my boat the teak eyebrows were missing. I decided to go with SST #4 ovalhead screws 1/2" long and finish washers.

Is that coosa board?

Accidently deleted my post  so am reposting.

I have an M25XP with a stuffing box. My driveshaft does not have that kind of motion.

My first question would be did you verify the shaft was straight when it was removed? See Gregory's questions above.

How far aft of the strut is the propeller? Did the MaxProp installer verify the spinner lined up with the correct letter for your boat?

Maybe on the non-marine version there's an hour meter mounted there?

Hi Paul, I get an error when I clink on the link to your blog posts you provided in reply #10. Can you take a look at it? Thanks.

FWIW - If seas pick up and water threatens to poop the cockpit, I want the boards easily accessible to me in the cockpit. I store mine in the port locker held in place by a couple of supports I made. Old photo's attached.

Catalina Direct sells a prop strut part number Z2228. Expensive, but worth checking if it will work on your boat.

On my 1987 I have the Hillerange model 2122 propane oven/stove combination which I believe is original. Ron had a great point about changing an orifice to convert CNG to propane. If you are able to do that you'll have avoided the biggest cost item in the system. If you build your own locker and buy your own tank(s), the cost for the switch, solenoid, regulator and hoses isn't that much.

Check all sides of each battery.

FYI -

I was doing routine maintenance on my 14 month old T105 6V batteries. I noticed the gap in the seam between the top and bottom of the case was wet on one battery. Dried it off, and it filled back up right away. The other three are fine. Called the supplier and was told this is a known problem for Trojan T105 batteries built in the last couple years. They said to bring it in for a warranty claim. I brought it in, and got a no hassle exchange for a new T105 battery with new warranty.

I took the photo after wiping the seam. Hard to see the drips in the photo, but it's starting to leak if you look close. Worthwhile for everyone with Trojan T105's bought in the last couple years to look close at the seam between the top and bottom of the case.

I have a horizontal windlass Maxwell HRCff-8 that works great. Annually I remove the clutch cone and look for wear on it, and the pressure arm. Then regrease, and put it back together. All work done above deck, and is about a 20 minute job. Don't know about maintenance for a vertical windlass.

Some tinned copper lugs have a small hole to solder after crimping the lug to a wire/cable. Maybe that's what Ron was referring to.

Great write up, thanks. Do you keep or exchange the old HBW50 and m25xp? If repowering, why not upgrade the hp to the Beta 30?

Bomar or Beckson?